Hey there, does anyone know if the Takuma aluminium mast can be cut down like the Axis one can ?
I'd like to chop an 85 to an 80cm.

yes you can, but you will have to re-tap the holes with an M6 tap.

I personally chose to redrill and retap the middle hole to M8 since there is plenty of metal there to do it. Even though there are 3 of them, M6 is just not enough to keep the fuselage attached well for me.

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jondrums said..
yes you can, but you will have to re-tap the holes with an M6 tap.

I personally chose to redrill and retap the middle hole to M8 since there is plenty of metal there to do it. Even though there are 3 of them, M6 is just not enough to keep the fuselage attached well for me.

Good call. I ripped the m6 threads out of my mast and had to chop it down to remove the damaged section. M8 is the answer.

what did you use to fill the void in the mast (cut off the capped portion and need to seal it from water)?

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Velocicraptor said..

what did you use to fill the void in the mast (cut off the capped portion and need to seal it from water)?

hot glue works

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jondrums said..

Velocicraptor said..

what did you use to fill the void in the mast (cut off the capped portion and need to seal it from water)?

hot glue works

brilliant

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jondrums said..

Velocicraptor said..

what did you use to fill the void in the mast (cut off the capped portion and need to seal it from water)?

hot glue works

Just did mine last night with thickened JB Weld epoxy and seems to have done the trick too. Now just need to tap the threads and I will be good to go.

Did you bother spraying the cut edge to resist corrosion? I figure whatever I spray will rub off in the fuse pocket and anodizing seems like PIA overkill.

This is all a bit moot as I should have a Cedrus within the next two weeks. No m6's there. Figure I can use the chopped mast as a low tide short-length alternative.

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Velocicraptor said..

jondrums said..

Velocicraptor said..

what did you use to fill the void in the mast (cut off the capped portion and need to seal it from water)?

hot glue works

Just did mine last night with thickened JB Weld epoxy and seems to have done the trick too. Now just need to tap the threads and I will be good to go.

Did you bother spraying the cut edge to resist corrosion? I figure whatever I spray will rub off in the fuse pocket and anodizing seems like PIA overkill.

This is all a bit moot as I should have a Cedrus within the next two weeks. No m6's there. Figure I can use the chopped mast as a low tide short-length alternative.

Just coat the area with tefgel.

Here's my newly chopped 220 tail. 12.75" span (took about 2.5" off of it). Spent a lot of time shaving and shaping the profile because its a fatty. Haven't ridden it yet, but didn't like the original shape so figured why not.

pardon the artistic touch. Turned it into an art project w my kids.

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Velocicraptor said..

jondrums said..

Velocicraptor said..

what did you use to fill the void in the mast (cut off the capped portion and need to seal it from water)?

hot glue works

Just did mine last night with thickened JB Weld epoxy and seems to have done the trick too. Now just need to tap the threads and I will be good to go.

Did you bother spraying the cut edge to resist corrosion? I figure whatever I spray will rub off in the fuse pocket and anodizing seems like PIA overkill.

This is all a bit moot as I should have a Cedrus within the next two weeks. No m6's there. Figure I can use the chopped mast as a low tide short-length alternative.

For anyone over 85kg I JB Marine Welded my mast to the foot plate and fuselage last year and it got rid of nearly all the unhelpful flex in the foil so now I only feel small mast flex which is way more predictable - no longer an issue so have not felt the need to look at 19mm masts and adapters etc any more.

I put wooden dowels in the threads, JB marine welded the sockets, slid the connections together, removed dowels and bolted the connections together (threads pre greased but no intention of taking apart again). So it's bolted +welded for info.

JB marine weld impressed me not cracked or gapped yet I'm up toward 90kg with 5mm full winter neoprene on.

For info Alu mast with 1210 and 1440. Prone mostly with fair amount of winging. Have proned my old 980 and even the LOL 1600 and it was fine

Late to the party but have a 1210 and 1750 full kit on the way.

Plan is to use with the alchemysurf.co ETA is May/June

I ride 3-7 sec period lake swell that is total garbage, these days mostly right in the shore break with a 4'2" 30L prone.

Plan is to use the 1750 on the 45cm mast when its micro micro small. Have had a lot of success with the HS1850 but wanted something that can handle tip ventilation better. Basically ride in 1-2' of water with the 45cm.

Will use the 1210 when just micro small. Using the alchemysurf.co fuse should be great as I prefer short fuse and it's so much better in small micro waves as the geometry of the foil fits in the wave better.

Should be interesting getting this setup all tuned up to use in these conditions.

First impression.
Shapes look epic.
Build quality of the 1750 not great compared to 1210. Inside of connection looks like it should not have passed quality control but kind of expected from all the talk.
Mast and fuse look decent. Mast is sealed.
HS1850 pictured for comparison.
1210 tips aren't as sharp as I've imagined from all the talk but maybe they've rounded them a bit in latest production.

With that size foil i would epoxy pot the connection as soon as possible,it will fill those nasty voids too.

If you do it try not go to deep with the epoxy, i got ambitious with my LOL 1900 and now it is a lovely one-piece wonder.Fun to get it in the car :)
The 1210 and 970 came out fine.

A bit further than the first screw is all you need.

Another option to firm up the wing/fuse connection is to make a shim like in pic below out of some X-ray film.
I've made one for my 750 & it's pretty much a perfect fit.

Could you get one of the Armstrong barrel bolts and just drill a top hole to fit on the Kujira? , like the conversion kit did.

I'm sure Jacko has suggested this here or another thread. Just use surf wax, it'll do a great job and 9/10 guys here will have it laying around.

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kobo said..
Could you get one of the Armstrong barrel bolts and just drill a top hole to fit on the Kujira? , like the conversion kit did.

I have done that.The Armstrong bolt needs to be shortened a bit because the Kujira is a bit thinner in section.I sleeved the drill bit with tape to avoid wearing down the threads.You can Dremel the Barrel part so it will not stick out the sides so much.

But epoxy potting is the best solution, takes all the load off the bolts.

Both of these operations are a bit nerve wracking and require time and prep, very easy to fudge up .

I will probably try the surf wax fix on future foils, with hard tropical wax it might be enough support.

Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

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SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Try 'lock tight' from Bunnings or just keep tightening up etc., also how do you find the 1210? as I have just starting using it, and is you fuse exactly parallel to your hull or is there a slight angle in your fuse?:-)

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SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Add aluminum tape to the fuse until it's snug enough that you have to tap the wing in.

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SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

To avoid your screws coming loose at the front wing/fuse connection, you need to make that connection tighter so that there is no movement.

If you search this thread there is lots of information about this issue & how to fix it.

I used the Gofoil/Pedigo epoxy method & my 1210 is still tight after 6 months of use.

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exiled said..

SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Add aluminum tape to the fuse until it's snug enough that you have to tap the wing in.

The aluminum tape worked really well for the front wing to the fuse connection. Maybe I will try wrapping more aluminum tape to the mast to fuse connection.

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Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Try 'lock tight' from Bunnings or just keep tightening up etc., also how do you find the 1210? as I have just starting using it, and is you fuse exactly parallel to your hull or is there a slight angle in your fuse?:-)

I have a small car so I take apart most of the setup every session. The 1210 has been great for me. Most of the waves down in San Diego are gutless and this foil pumps forever. Its only my second foil setup but its very forgiving and has let me excel and get out of the beginner level real quick.

Select to expand quote

SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Try 'lock tight' from Bunnings or just keep tightening up etc., also how do you find the 1210? as I have just starting using it, and is you fuse exactly parallel to your hull or is there a slight angle in your fuse?:-)

I have a small car so I take apart most of the setup every session. The 1210 has been great for me. Most of the waves down in San Diego are gutless and this foil pumps forever. Its only my second foil setup but its very forgiving and has let me excel and get out of the beginner level real quick.

Yes Cliff I am in a similar situation - & small car & beginner & now 1year, can I ask what was your 1st previous foil set up?:-)

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SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Try 'lock tight' from Bunnings or just keep tightening up etc., also how do you find the 1210? as I have just starting using it, and is you fuse exactly parallel to your hull or is there a slight angle in your fuse?:-)

I have a small car so I take apart most of the setup every session. The 1210 has been great for me. Most of the waves down in San Diego are gutless and this foil pumps forever. Its only my second foil setup but its very forgiving and has let me excel and get out of the beginner level real quick.

Hey Cliff can you please tell me what shim you use on the rear tail as I am have tried the zero & +0.5 shims ?:-)

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Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Try 'lock tight' from Bunnings or just keep tightening up etc., also how do you find the 1210? as I have just starting using it, and is you fuse exactly parallel to your hull or is there a slight angle in your fuse?:-)

I have a small car so I take apart most of the setup every session. The 1210 has been great for me. Most of the waves down in San Diego are gutless and this foil pumps forever. Its only my second foil setup but its very forgiving and has let me excel and get out of the beginner level real quick.

Hey Cliff can you please tell me what shim you use on the rear tail as I am have tried the zero & +0.5 shims ?:-)

Ive been using a positive tail shim on my setup. Cut a credit card to shape the back tail/fuse area under the screws. Seems like it has helped reduce the excessive lift when getting on foil.

Select to expand quote

SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Try 'lock tight' from Bunnings or just keep tightening up etc., also how do you find the 1210? as I have just starting using it, and is you fuse exactly parallel to your hull or is there a slight angle in your fuse?:-)

I have a small car so I take apart most of the setup every session. The 1210 has been great for me. Most of the waves down in San Diego are gutless and this foil pumps forever. Its only my second foil setup but its very forgiving and has let me excel and get out of the beginner level real quick.

Hey Cliff can you please tell me what shim you use on the rear tail as I am have tried the zero & +0.5 shims ?:-)

Ive been using a positive tail shim on my setup. Cut a credit card to shape the back tail/fuse area under the screws. Seems like it has helped reduce the excessive lift when getting on foil.

Ok so are you saying that you use around a +1 shim/angle then? & what about your fuselage angle - is it dead straight or a bit of an angle up or down?:-)

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Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Try 'lock tight' from Bunnings or just keep tightening up etc., also how do you find the 1210? as I have just starting using it, and is you fuse exactly parallel to your hull or is there a slight angle in your fuse?:-)

I have a small car so I take apart most of the setup every session. The 1210 has been great for me. Most of the waves down in San Diego are gutless and this foil pumps forever. Its only my second foil setup but its very forgiving and has let me excel and get out of the beginner level real quick.

Hey Cliff can you please tell me what shim you use on the rear tail as I am have tried the zero & +0.5 shims ?:-)

Ive been using a positive tail shim on my setup. Cut a credit card to shape the back tail/fuse area under the screws. Seems like it has helped reduce the excessive lift when getting on foil.

Ok so are you saying that you use around a +1 shim/angle then? & what about your fuselage angle - is it dead straight or a bit of an angle up or down?:-)

All the 2021/22 75/85cm Alloy setups have built in angle on the fuse. If you have the early 2020 T-mast or the 2020 70/80cm Alloy it will not have any added angle.

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gorgesailor said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..

Johndesu said..

SDcliffsFoil said..
Does anyone recommend what I should do to avoid the crews loosing up wile out at a session? I have the takuma 1210 front wing and aluminum fuse and mast. After about an hour the three screws that connect the fuse to the mast are loosing up.

Try 'lock tight' from Bunnings or just keep tightening up etc., also how do you find the 1210? as I have just starting using it, and is you fuse exactly parallel to your hull or is there a slight angle in your fuse?:-)

I have a small car so I take apart most of the setup every session. The 1210 has been great for me. Most of the waves down in San Diego are gutless and this foil pumps forever. Its only my second foil setup but its very forgiving and has let me excel and get out of the beginner level real quick.

Hey Cliff can you please tell me what shim you use on the rear tail as I am have tried the zero & +0.5 shims ?:-)

Ive been using a positive tail shim on my setup. Cut a credit card to shape the back tail/fuse area under the screws. Seems like it has helped reduce the excessive lift when getting on foil.

Ok so are you saying that you use around a +1 shim/angle then? & what about your fuselage angle - is it dead straight or a bit of an angle up or down?:-)

All the 2021/22 75/85cm Alloy setups have built in angle on the fuse. If you have the early 2020 T-mast or the 2020 70/80cm Alloy it will not have any added angle.

Ok so do you know what is the angle & is it up or down? I have attached a 1210 to a 60cm Armstrong fuselage & before I permanently fit it in I want to get it right because I will not be able to detach or adjust it afterwards - thanks:-)

New mast and fuse takuma.com/en/masts-and-fuselages/306-953-carbon-mast-set-7585.html#/111-size-75_cm

Interesting split fuse design, the front screw forcing it apart and creating a tight fit.