Te Hau said..
Hello Edoardo,
I'm sorry for late reply, I haven't been on the site for some time.

"-the 48 gr glass layer underneath the PVC is to get better adhesion of the PVC to the EPS core?
-how you avoid EPS to aborb to much resin? do you seal it with resin+ microbaloons or wet the glass on a table before laying it on the EPS?
-I assume yo put some carbon reinforcements underneath PVC in the areas where local pressure may be applied (straps, UJ ecc...).
-The 48 gr/m2 glass layer on top of carbon is to protect from carbon brittleness? is that enough to avoid dents?"

48gr glass is for improved adhesion as you suggested. It's to hold the resin and prevent it from soaking into the EPS.
I don't seal the EPS (too heavy. not necessary)
I wet the fabrics on a table.
I use a plastic squeegee which leaves more resin in the fabric.
If your wish is for a very light and dry wet out, then use a metal squeegee.
Yes, I use carbon patches at the feet/heels, fin box area
48gr on top of the CF is for protection and also as resin absorber for the CF layer.
I never do see dry spots in the 48gr layer but if I did, I would just wet them out after the vac bag stage.
If dents are a worry, go heavier (48gr is mighty light). I do see harness hook dents.
Regarding the bottom shape.
For my foil boards I have been keeping it simple (as you intend) and I use a 300mm wide central flat section from tail to nose with the remaining outboard sections vee'd at 1 degree.
Out on the rails I have a 6 degree rail bevel which is max 65mm wide (at1900mm) and it fades out to zero at 900mm from the tail.
This shape works well and is easy to do.
Shape it on the blank and then score the PVC at the bend lines (3mmPVC scored to 1.5mm) before you bond the PVC on.
With this shape my boards take off early, breach safely and land easily and I've only been over the front once.
Board #1 had no cut outs, #2 with cut outs, #3 again no cut outs.
You can see that I saw little benefit from the cutouts.
Tail width is around 570mm at 100mm. Max widths 760 #1, 810 #2, 770 #3
Good luck and happy building.

coolmove said..
Next step

Te Hau said..
One question Te Hau if I may ask...what is the orientation of the fron straps you would suggest for windfoiling? I so far used something around 30 deg respect to board axis since I was told that windfoiling requires to be more sort of upwind stance, though when jibing, I often find myself stuck in the straps when performing foot change. distance between holes I got 16 cm along the strap, while distance between the two row of inserts for the same strap is 8 cm. Would you suggest something different? Thank you

I tested with the angle and I use 45 degree (90 degree between straps) I found it easier to pump onto the plane when my foot is pointing forward. It's also good for gybing as the foot comes out easily. I have my straps at 155mm between screws.
I sail in booties and I have the rear strap in (ie) 3rd hole and 4th hole, so that the rear strap is more open (180mm Vs 155mm) this is a good safety feature and stops the foot getting stuck if you go over the bars, also more mobile foot is good for weight shift and no negative that I can see (unless racing).
I'm not sure what you mean with the final (8cm) question.
Happy 2023

dimacced said..
. By the way Coolmove, you board is awesome! I will never be able to make it so nice looking!

coolmove said..
A new one
170 x 67 cm

dimacced said..






Can't catch your pace, you are already on a new one, while I still have to complete my first...I am ready for final lamination though, planning to go 200 gr/m2 biaxial carbon on top of 3 mm sandwich plus reinforcements in critical areas. I need to decide if putting a layer of glass on top of the carbon to protect it from dinging...struggling with the idea, I will probably put it only on critical areas to save some weight...will decide shortly

WillyWind said..
Out of curiosity, what would be the biggest issue about building a windfoil board without vacuum bagging? A little bit heavier because you can't remove the excess resin? a little bit less strong because of the excess resin? Harder to have sharp edges? All three? Something else?

WillyWind said..
Out of curiosity, what would be the biggest issue about building a windfoil board without vacuum bagging? A little bit heavier because you can't remove the excess resin? a little bit less strong because of the excess resin? Harder to have sharp edges? All three? Something else?

utcminusfour said..




All the above but mostly the edges, it's hard to get thicker fibers to make the turns. Bagging is not that hard, and the results are worth the effort. You can't get the time you spend building a board back. Your time is invaluable. Spend a little more time and money to learn how to vacuum bag so your results are worth your effort. I would recommend vacuum bagging even if all you do is one nose repair.

jdfoils said..
Handle was on the v3 wizard and v2 freestyle too

dimacced said..





final deck laminatiopn ongoing, I am almost there...still far to hit the water but the board is almost completed





Tomorrow this time I will open the bag and my full carbon, first totally self made windfoil board will be there...than microballons, sanding, painting, antiskid pads and finally...hitting the water to see how god is it going to be...by the way it seems that Slinghshot team is following this thread..they inserted the handle on their V4 version as well :-)