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moohan said..
In JB's defence, there looked to be a bit of a jump in swell on Friday evening. Surfed waist to chest Friday morning with the kids, then popped down to the local protected break after dinner for a swim and was surprised to see it had a decent wave and a sizeable shorey (for this time of year).
Thanks for that, i was amazed TBH on what Friday offered. As i said i rushed down as my mate had already grabbed my boy, i had the wrong board sadly and was stunned at what was on offer. This particular spot when it works can be rather special. If i find any picks from the night ill share.. The larger sets had guys hanging back and when someone actually did take one, the beach was cheering/scretching, but it ends up shallow and it is heavy..But they when pulled into the pit were well over head

A couple of mates surfed of shore that night they say 5 to 6' at an offshore spot just up the road, best they have seen they said..
Sat had less people but the vibe was not about sharing at all. A few grumps were trying to take all the waves so it ended up literally shoulder to shoulder bumps on take off. I actually thought two guys must have been mates the way they were bumping, turns out they weren't

Sunday Morning three more hours of the best to date. Smaller again but with my two kids only, a mate and his boy. The joy i got from that surf will last me for sometime. My sun was pulling into is first barrels, (all be it closes outs) my daughter managed to work on her style. Trying to stop her from holding her arms like a Dinosaur.
SO yes as has been said, surfing/stoke is in the eye of the beholder