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Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

Created by doggie doggie  > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010
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jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

16 Dec 2014 11:54am
I had thought the drive, the track and mid week early would keep "Them" away, but alas i surfed a really fun wave still with about 18 to 20 guys. Super fun and finally tried the Dominator as a QUAD and i can't believe i didn't do it earlier. I wish i felt fitter and hassled harder but still had a few fun waves

But really when a young guy is paddling out from a wave, your positioning/paddling and he goes inside you, turns and tries to go, you've got to be kidding me
Legion
Legion

WA

2222 posts

16 Dec 2014 2:01pm
Select to expand quote
bjshack said..
... your positioning/paddling and he goes inside you ...


Clearly you weren't positioning very well if there was room for him to paddle inside you.

LateStarter
LateStarter

WA

589 posts

16 Dec 2014 4:29pm
Select to expand quote
Legion said..

bjshack said..
... your positioning/paddling and he goes inside you ...



Clearly you weren't positioning very well if there was room for him to paddle inside you.



Go Deeper Brah!
jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

16 Dec 2014 4:30pm
Select to expand quote
Legion said..

bjshack said..
... your positioning/paddling and he goes inside you ...



Clearly you weren't positioning very well if there was room for him to paddle inside you.



The problem was he would take of too deep often and not make it.. But its called etiquette, look it up
mitchbat
mitchbat

WA

399 posts

16 Dec 2014 5:12pm
Select to expand quote
jbshack said..

Legion said..


bjshack said..
... your positioning/paddling and he goes inside you ...




Clearly you weren't positioning very well if there was room for him to paddle inside you.




The problem was he would take of too deep often and not make it.. But its called etiquette, look it up


Legion, good positioning is subjective. Not everyone surfs to the same ability and etiquette should be shown where needed. If someone who doesn't surf as well as me is making waves and has waited his turn I'll let him go. Likewise I expect the same from someone that surfs better than me. If some hungry pr.... keeps paddling up the inside then a drop in or two is well warranted IMO. It's a different story if waves are being wasted though
jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

16 Dec 2014 5:31pm
Select to expand quote
mitchbat said..

jbshack said..


Legion said..



bjshack said..
... your positioning/paddling and he goes inside you ...





Clearly you weren't positioning very well if there was room for him to paddle inside you.





The problem was he would take of too deep often and not make it.. But its called etiquette, look it up



Legion, good positioning is subjective. Not everyone surfs to the same ability and etiquette should be shown where needed. If someone who doesn't surf as well as me is making waves and has waited his turn I'll let him go. Likewise I expect the same from someone that surfs better than me. If some hungry pr.... keeps paddling up the inside then a drop in or two is well warranted IMO. It's a different story if waves are being wasted though


Actually there was a bit of a peak and often he would try and take of behind the peak and not make it, when he could have simply gone left and had a great waves still. This was just a good old case of poor form IMHO, sadly coupled with a youthful fitness level that meant he could run rings around most of us average guys. He also had a mate and the two a few times tried to play blocking games, but they couldn't get that working for them..

Good news was i surfed the Dominator as a quad and its a different board


jbenny
jbenny

WA

12 posts

16 Dec 2014 9:02pm
Select to expand quote
jbshack said..

mitchbat said..


jbshack said..



Legion said..




bjshack said..
... your positioning/paddling and he goes inside you ...






Clearly you weren't positioning very well if there was room for him to paddle inside you.






The problem was he would take of too deep often and not make it.. But its called etiquette, look it up




Legion, good positioning is subjective. Not everyone surfs to the same ability and etiquette should be shown where needed. If someone who doesn't surf as well as me is making waves and has waited his turn I'll let him go. Likewise I expect the same from someone that surfs better than me. If some hungry pr.... keeps paddling up the inside then a drop in or two is well warranted IMO. It's a different story if waves are being wasted though



Actually there was a bit of a peak and often he would try and take of behind the peak and not make it, when he could have simply gone left and had a great waves still. This was just a good old case of poor form IMHO, sadly coupled with a youthful fitness level that meant he could run rings around most of us average guys. He also had a mate and the two a few times tried to play blocking games, but they couldn't get that working for them..

Good news was i surfed the Dominator as a quad and its a different board




I was with that grom this morning and i told him about wasting waves and taking off to deep when some one else had better position so i aint got a clue where your coming from with this "blocking games" ****
PaddlePig
PaddlePig

WA

421 posts

16 Dec 2014 9:52pm
Usually the young ripper who tries the take off inside rubbish weighs about 60kg. Let him do it, no worries. Probably rips like master legion. But once the wave passes let's hope he can pull the skin off a custard and isn't a pencil neck. What I mean is, some blokes surf terrible but with a bit of respect and a bit of weight behind them, I would just know my place and be respectful back.
jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

17 Dec 2014 10:59am
Select to expand quote
jbenny said..


jbshack said..



mitchbat said..




jbshack said..





Legion said..






bjshack said..
... your positioning/paddling and he goes inside you ...








Clearly you weren't positioning very well if there was room for him to paddle inside you.







The problem was he would take of too deep often and not make it.. But its called etiquette, look it up






Legion, good positioning is subjective. Not everyone surfs to the same ability and etiquette should be shown where needed. If someone who doesn't surf as well as me is making waves and has waited his turn I'll let him go. Likewise I expect the same from someone that surfs better than me. If some hungry pr.... keeps paddling up the inside then a drop in or two is well warranted IMO. It's a different story if waves are being wasted though





Actually there was a bit of a peak and often he would try and take of behind the peak and not make it, when he could have simply gone left and had a great waves still. This was just a good old case of poor form IMHO, sadly coupled with a youthful fitness level that meant he could run rings around most of us average guys. He also had a mate and the two a few times tried to play blocking games, but they couldn't get that working for them..

Good news was i surfed the Dominator as a quad and its a different board





I was with that grom this morning and i told him about wasting waves and taking off to deep when some one else had better position so i aint got a clue where your coming from with this "blocking games" ****



They were talking about it to each other. I didn't bother chatting them as to be honest i still got my waves i wanted. I just thought with such a small crew, it wasn't really needed. You would admit they were running rings around catching everything.. I ended up sitting with the other young guy on his own in the middle who was getting the waves all the way in..

J Benny did you have the hat on with no peak? I was wondering what that was about

Some fun waves being had though
mitchbat
mitchbat

WA

399 posts

17 Dec 2014 11:22am
^^^ It's a sad sign of the times that 18-20 is considered a small crew.
jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

17 Dec 2014 11:42am
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jbenny said..
No mate I was the one on the HS board.
I told the grommy about going on the wave to deep when the bloke with the hat on had better positioning.
I'm the one your saying was trying to play blocking games?


Yeah i heard that one..

Oh you two were together then? You had the shaved hair.. You got one corker of a wave, he was sitting this time on the outside of you and i was outside again. I was looking at paddling and he started to go inside me, but still outside you. When you paddled back out you looked rather happy, he congratulated and he was saying he was going to block outside, to make sure you got it. As if i would have dropped in. I will say it really was just your mate. It was a good wave though..

Im used to blocking stuff, it happens more often when mates surf together, it may have just been a throw away comment he made, but he made it but that was all i sore of that, my issue was your mate would paddle straight back out, turn inside the guy already in position and take of too deep. I noticed you guys liked sharing waves, but me i don't actually like paddling for a wave when someone is already in position. Either way i guess thats just what you get when you get older and slower. I actually thought to myself i needed to push out wider and hassle more, but thats not what i surf for..
jbenny
jbenny

WA

12 posts

17 Dec 2014 11:49am
Nar fair enough mate, he didn't block for us on that wave, and if he did say it I didn't hear him.
I told him about the paddling on waves when he was to deep and made him apologise to the bloke in the hat.
bene313
bene313

WA

1347 posts

17 Dec 2014 12:11pm

WOW. And I thought cock blocking was what you do with bros in night clubs.



jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

17 Dec 2014 12:13pm
Select to expand quote
jbenny said..
Nar fair enough mate, he didn't block for us on that wave, and if he did say it I didn't hear him.
I told him about the paddling on waves when he was to deep and made him apologise to the bloke in the hat.


All good i was hoping the wind would hold of for today, but slept in and hopefully bought another board instead..
DJMWA
DJMWA

WA

345 posts

17 Dec 2014 12:38pm
Jeeeez I have one sleep in and it all turns to **** out there
jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

17 Dec 2014 12:46pm
Select to expand quote
DJMWA said..
Jeeeez I have one sleep in and it all turns to **** out there


You may have missed the best bit for a while
Razzonater
Razzonater

2224 posts

17 Dec 2014 1:52pm
Stay away from my wave man, don't steal my high, go back to the valley
LateStarter
LateStarter

WA

589 posts

18 Dec 2014 8:45am
Fun 2-footers out there at Perths favorite beachie this morning, and so few people out you could count them on one hand.

Happy Days!

Souwester
Souwester

WA

1266 posts

18 Dec 2014 12:14pm
Saw a few rolling through mid morning - it did look fun.

Warm, offshore and not too crowded!
GPA
GPA

GPA

WA

2529 posts

18 Dec 2014 12:35pm
Select to expand quote
LateStarter said..
Fun 2-footers out there at Perths favorite beachie this morning, and so few people out you could count them on one hand.

Happy Days!


Not sure where you were, but I was near the 'rock' at Trigg 3rds and it was woeful. Size was OK as you say, but there was next to no shape... I did not see a single person get a single decent wave in the 90min I was out (8:30am - 10:00am) - but was driving the coast from 7:30am.

Glad that you scored - I unfortunately did not.
jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

18 Dec 2014 12:58pm
Select to expand quote
GPA said..

LateStarter said..
Fun 2-footers out there at Perths favorite beachie this morning, and so few people out you could count them on one hand.

Happy Days!



Not sure where you were, but I was near the 'rock' at Trigg 3rds and it was woeful. Size was OK as you say, but there was next to no shape... I did not see a single person get a single decent wave in the 90min I was out (8:30am - 10:00am) - but was driving the coast from 7:30am.

Glad that you scored - I unfortunately did not.


You may need to lower the bar sum Just getting the nose flushed is a good start..Although, I've enjoyed my last few surfs
LateStarter
LateStarter

WA

589 posts

18 Dec 2014 4:04pm
Select to expand quote
GPA said..

LateStarter said..
Fun 2-footers out there at Perths favorite beachie this morning, and so few people out you could count them on one hand.

Happy Days!



Not sure where you were, but I was near the 'rock' at Trigg 3rds and it was woeful. Size was OK as you say, but there was next to no shape... I did not see a single person get a single decent wave in the 90min I was out (8:30am - 10:00am) - but was driving the coast from 7:30am.

Glad that you scored - I unfortunately did not.


I would have been a good walk south of where you were. It was still pretty straight and backwashed, but the odd one was holding up. I guess the benefit of no crowds is that you're not competing with anyone else and get all of the good ones.

Surfing by yourself in Perth is a a very rare luxury. I wish everyone took up Golf.

Buster fin
Buster fin

WA

2597 posts

18 Dec 2014 4:46pm
Funny you should mention that...
Zuke
Zuke

901 posts

19 Dec 2014 5:34pm
Scored a few nice ones today.





Buster fin
Buster fin

WA

2597 posts

19 Dec 2014 5:35pm
Select to expand quote
Zuke said..
Scored a few nice ones today.






Damn you!
genuine
genuine

332 posts

21 Dec 2014 9:03pm
Week swell at the moment
Buster fin
Buster fin

WA

2597 posts

21 Dec 2014 9:09pm
Select to expand quote
genuine said..
Week long flat spell at the moment


Fixed that for ya.
genuine
genuine

332 posts

21 Dec 2014 9:47pm
Select to expand quote
Buster fin said..

genuine said..
Week long flat spell at the moment



Fixed that for ya.


Thanks
GPA
GPA

GPA

WA

2529 posts

23 Dec 2014 10:49am
Well - I just did the LBB U-turn. Took the mal and the fat-fish expecting it to be chest high - WRONG! - it was barely knee high and side-shore at 7:30am. Looked at it desperately for 15min before getting a pie. Went back at 8:30am hoping, hoping, hoping it was better... It had cleaned up, but there was about 15 (spread) out and the mals and teenies alike still were not catching anything that resembled a wave.

It was a total bust - the guy chucking the tennis ball for his three dogs was having more fun!
jbshack
jbshack

WA

6913 posts

23 Dec 2014 11:26am
Select to expand quote
GPA said..
Well - I just did the LBB U-turn. Took the mal and the fat-fish expecting it to be chest high - WRONG! - it was barely knee high and side-shore at 7:30am. Looked at it desperately for 15min before getting a pie. Went back at 8:30am hoping, hoping, hoping it was better... It had cleaned up, but there was about 15 (spread) out and the mals and teenies alike still were not catching anything that resembled a wave.

It was a total bust - the guy chucking the tennis ball for his three dogs was having more fun!



In summer i sometimes found id get out of bed so early, no surf but didn't want to miss out, so i bought a SUP. Now if i want i can take it along, if no surf at least just get wet and go for a paddle. Now having said that since owning it, I've not actually used it, as I'm lazy and much prefer to carry a short fat board, but its an option

Driving up the coast last night i really enjoyed watching the wind surfers especially at Mettoms. But then i remembered how much effort they are to set up and pack up

This wind is just stupid..
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