Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

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Created by

doggie > 9 months ago, 23 Apr 2010

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photosbykarlo

236 posts

10 Aug 2014 11:26pm

Yesterday and today

Buster fin

2597 posts

11 Aug 2014 12:33pm

Select to expand quote

jbshack said..
Had a ball again today, same place as last week. A few epic Point barrels being scored and managed a amazing keeper for my memory bank..

I didn't make it out but it was big and ballsey and seemed to run for ever..

(Ok on my scale)

A question though, if your sliding out on bottom turns (board is just flat and slips away) is that more an issue of fin size or am i not setting my rail correctly

I was blaming the Medium fins (I'm 96 kilos) but i think its the more a rail issue as some waves were just amazing to ride and some just slipped away

Got ya foot firmly over the fins? Not too far forward?

jbshack

6913 posts

11 Aug 2014 1:31pm

Select to expand quote

Buster fin said..

jbshack said..
Had a ball again today, same place as last week. A few epic Point barrels being scored and managed a amazing keeper for my memory bank..

I didn't make it out but it was big and ballsey and seemed to run for ever..

(Ok on my scale)

A question though, if your sliding out on bottom turns (board is just flat and slips away) is that more an issue of fin size or am i not setting my rail correctly

I was blaming the Medium fins (I'm 96 kilos) but i think its the more a rail issue as some waves were just amazing to ride and some just slipped away

Got ya foot firmly over the fins? Not too far forward?

Yeah that has been a big driver. I found that this board I'm riding really needs heavy back foot..I even managed once to get the foot on the outside of the foot pad..Im wondering if i need to re position it slightly

Buster fin

2597 posts

11 Aug 2014 2:27pm

I would.

Legion

2222 posts

11 Aug 2014 2:37pm

You're just a kook, bjshack.

That board's never going to hold well off the tail. Fat rails and a wide tail plus flat rocker. At least that's how it looks in that picture. I've been forced back onto a similar board and it's night and day. The only solution is paddle harder and get in early. Steep late drops are not your friend unless you like to be adventurous. You can get them wired but it's a compromise. Best solution is an equipment solution.

jbshack

6913 posts

11 Aug 2014 2:57pm

Select to expand quote

Buster fin said..
I would.

Next question then, how do they remove and can you re glue them, or is it just buy another

Legion maybe I'm a kook, but i thank god every day I'm not like you

Legion

2222 posts

11 Aug 2014 4:12pm

I gave you feedback. It's equipment. Lots of volume, not much rocker, super wide, fat rails. It is what it is. Would you take your Prado to Wanneroo and then say it doesn't corner well?

I surfed a similar design on the weekend. Coming off a shortboard, I came very close to catching both rocker and rails on a few occasions and it didn't turn as sharp off the rail line. However, it generated heaps of speed and was slidey and poppy. Tradeoffs.

Grevas

147 posts

11 Aug 2014 4:21pm

Sorry JB how is this a daily surf update. Time to shift it to your own thread mate.

jbshack

6913 posts

11 Aug 2014 4:51pm

Select to expand quote

Grevas said..
Sorry JB how is this a daily surf update. Time to shift it to your own thread mate.

Done

Coohan

84 posts

11 Aug 2014 8:59pm

Scored pumping Metro beachies on Saturday. Decent swell, dropping tide and all day offshores made for some very fun surf. Hope everyone else made the most of the awesome conditions!!

Photo courtesy of Daniel Degoisa

jbshack

6913 posts

12 Aug 2014 12:01pm

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Coohan said..
Scored pumping Metro beachies on Saturday. Decent swell, dropping tide and all day offshores made for some very fun surf. Hope everyone else made the most of the awesome conditions!!

Photo courtesy of Daniel Degoisa

That looks like were i was Sunday..

Legion

2222 posts

12 Aug 2014 12:21pm

Select to expand quote

bjshack said..
That looks like were i was Sunday..

Except it's not closing out ...

jbshack

6913 posts

12 Aug 2014 1:02pm

Select to expand quote

Legion said..

bjshack said..
That looks like were i was Sunday..

Except it's not closing out ...

Haha were i was it was not all close outs, but i am serous, i think it is THE beach i was surfing Sunday.. I could be wrong, but if its North, ill bet I'm not

Coohan

84 posts

12 Aug 2014 8:02pm

Another one by Dan Degoisa

jbshack

6913 posts

12 Aug 2014 8:53pm

Select to expand quote

Coohan said..

Another one by Dan Degoisa

Stunning, but sadly not were i was..

Zuke

901 posts

13 Aug 2014 4:35pm

Winds backed off, swells come up.......

agnak

311 posts

13 Aug 2014 5:49pm

Yeah, the winds been hideous the last few days luckily it`s dropped off when the tide has been right or else it would have been all over where i was. On Sunday when there was still a fair bit of swell around had to wait for hours for it to drop..but ended up ok. Been flat the last 3 days though!

Legion

2222 posts

13 Aug 2014 6:08pm

Awesome looking, but I'll bet that was a nightmare to surf.

agnak

311 posts

13 Aug 2014 6:14pm

Still waited a while after those pics.

[edit] was a worry when it got a bit of Nth in it, thought it might go light N.W. but turned out glassy. (Awesome sunset that night and that moon!!)

Souwester

1266 posts

13 Aug 2014 6:16pm

Looks like a challenge that's for sure!

I enjoyed a couple of fun dawn and dusk session early in the week, had a great bank with some absolute drainers running along surfing at first on the fish and then the mal.

Grommys got some rippers as well - so much fun watching the stoke they have, the banter is non stop as well!

Nothing better than locking in and just sitting deep as the wave goes from the sandy rip section on take off to the blue green colour as it opens up..and then goes sandy again as you get dumped on the beach ha ha

Razzonater

2224 posts

14 Aug 2014 1:55pm

Smaller this week but good uncrowded waves. Monday at everyone's favourite left 5 out chest shoulder high sets. Today at the a frame no one out but me and a mate for three hours. Couldn't believe it, kept waiting for the crew to come trading barrels and laughing our heads off. After an hour and a half we say wide and scored a dozen sets each and surfed till cactus. Epic morning can't believe it.

Souwester

1266 posts

15 Aug 2014 9:35am

Absolute grovel this morning, nice conditions though. Same little bank threw up a few little peelers but not as good as earlier in the week.

The rip there is still working overtime.

Would love to still be out there...

bolgo

910 posts

16 Aug 2014 5:34am

nice waves down south
thurs light offshore wnw swell
was only one out for a good 45 min @ lefties (or anywhere else that I could see) mid-late arvo

even better next am, clean crisp waves, occasional bubble
max 10
some one would paddle for a wave, no else moved
ahhh, the good old days

GPA

2529 posts

16 Aug 2014 2:31pm

Was shifty, lumpy head-high+ glass at LBB; mostly lefts. Some gems if you were in the right spot, but otherwise it was hit and miss... swell dropped around 10:30am. Good fun. Getting too hot for a steamer, although it was cold at 7:30am with the breeze

mocha1

934 posts

16 Aug 2014 3:44pm

Was similar further north, should've been but wasn't

Souwester

1266 posts

16 Aug 2014 4:45pm

Fun clean peaks early on, went a bit crappy mid morning. Still managed a few hours surf, mowed the lawns and watching the footy now. Bewdiful!

Razzonater

2224 posts

17 Aug 2014 7:00pm

I'm in qld surfed snapski yesterday. And had a late arvo in Byron today. Got some pics I can't post them off my iPhone ( what's happened?) ill try again when I'm home

Zuke

901 posts

19 Aug 2014 10:25am

There were some bombs on the beaches this morning with the early offshore. Not as lumpy as expected with the onshores most of the night, pretty glassy actually with just a bit of lump and a few nice ones holding up. Better than it has been, a lot of sand has moved around so with a bit of luck there should be some good banks with the next proper offshore. Even the northern reefs looked OK for the early with just two paddling out at smots and copping a good size set on the head as I was heading home.

smicko

2503 posts

19 Aug 2014 12:46pm

Careful ekuZ you're giving away secret spots there mate

Razzonater

2224 posts

19 Aug 2014 8:20pm

Pics of the last three days are on my profile I don't know how to get em up on here. Me missis got one of the best shots I've seen of an empty a frame. Ended up surfing it by me self for four hours than heading up the coast to a wedge right. If someone knows how to pull it off me profile and put the a frame on here fire it up. Swells bumping tomorrow one of me mates here wants to take us to one of his waves reckons itll be the goods fingers crossed

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