I have a capped fitting through the cabin roof through which I thread a sling which I attach to the boom. I then attach a small chain block to lift the engine in the cabin directly over the engine mounts.

Jolene said..
Sail drive ss 34 ,motor under the companion way




SS 34 mid mounted motor (above the keel)
Shaft approximately 1.6 m long. No P bracket

That mid mounted motor above the keel is the normal Mark 1 arrangement I would have expected. I think with Ricochet the shipwights were trying to optimize every thing for racing. The engine is above the keel, lightweight interior, light deck etc. Keel mounted mast which was unusual for a mark 1. With the long skeg for the shaft the tip of the propeller blades are a lot further clear of the hull than normal and this is very noticeable when the boat is first put into forward gear. The acceleration is very noticeable compared to other boats.

Jolene said..

BeamReach said..

Jolene said..
I have a capped fitting through the cabin roof through which I thread a sling which I attach to the boom. I then attach a small chain block to lift the engine in the cabin directly over the engine mounts.

Okay...So is the position of your engine near your companionway?
What do yacht owners do when their engine is right up by the mast?
How do they move the engine from the companionway, which is generally a lot more aft of the mast.. Just curious..
Cheers..

The engine can be lowered down through the companion way hatch with a crane or off the boom with a chain block.
Once inside you can easily man handle the engine forward a few feet to the position ready to lift again. I basically slid the engine on some timber.
The first time I lifted lt out ,two of us lifted it off the mounts and carried it to the companion way.

Thanks for the reply and explanation Jolene.
So with a bit man handling you manage to move the engine a few feet to the next point of lift.
Also with Ramona's input, I now understand why an engine is mounted more forward.
Cheers

GKandCC said..
Had the luxury years ago of well-seasoned Merbau (now everything is freshly cut) sourced from a mate who's company made external staircases. There was never an issue with bleeding. When it was cut it looked like a polished steel surface, and felt like it weighed the same. Now we just have to live with our First-World problems...bleeding and long supply times!. Just be thankful you're not a Ukrainian citizen waiting for the Russians to stop bombing (liberating) them and all their infrastructure coming into winter.

Just a heads up to everyone that we shouldn't use Merbau, it is first world money driving rainforest clearing.

"Merbau is not only considered an endangered species, at the prevailing rate of indiscriminate usage it will also be extinct within the next 35 years"
handcraftedtimber.com/merbau-timber-decks/

woko said..
... It was this fact that inspired me to look at using recycled composite products and while they may be effective in a domestic decking application once cut the unknown source of wood pulp is prone to rot.

Well bugger. I have used it on a couple of decks now and around our above ground pool where you get in and out without any signs of rot, but a chlorine filled pool is a far cry from an algae filled ocean.
Side note, it is very heavy and has the structural properties of half cooked pasta but I was hopeful it might have been good for boat decking : (

sparau said..

woko said..
... It was this fact that inspired me to look at using recycled composite products and while they may be effective in a domestic decking application once cut the unknown source of wood pulp is prone to rot.

Well bugger. I have used it on a couple of decks now and around our above ground pool where you get in and out without any signs of rot, but a chlorine filled pool is a far cry from an algae filled ocean.
Side note, it is very heavy and has the structural properties of half cooked pasta but I was hopeful it might have been good for boat decking : (

I think structural properties of half cooked pasta is a bit harsh, I would class it right up there with raw pasta in truth it's not so bad in that respect.If it was made with long fibres it would resemble wood better

Search : glueing wood plastic composite, we had a bit of a look at it a while ago.

First day at sea today after the slips last week. Noticeably faster motoring. Sailing was about the same but felt smoother!

Installed this fuel hose tonight, it comes off a small plastic diesel tank that feeds a Webasto furnace. The location was extremely difficult as the tank is only about 4 inches off the bottom of the hull under the transom steps. I had to lie on my back upside down in the lazarette to reach under the quadrant to access the hose clamp, all by feel as I couldn't see it. The pic is from a ferret camera. The tank had a blockage so no fuel was getting to the webasto. Fixed now, great unit, it heated the water in 20 minutes and provided almost instant heat to the fan heater in the saloon. Sounds like a jet engine as it fires up.

I finished stitching up a sail pack for my main. Next I have to fit some lazy jacks and cross my fingers that I've made it all correctly.

Lenn said..
What did I do today. I got my boat today!

Nice one !

marieholm 26 bought about six months ago still has not left the marina at newhaven YS. living in portland makes it a little hard to devote enough time to this lovely folkboat however we keep on trying...! broke the jib halyard by overtensioning this brittle little sucker to identify. Realised it held the jibsail up on the roller track. So drop the mast? ok easy have done it on a trailer sailer a lot. One gin pole aluminium square pipe....side stays to prevent sideways movement...pulley and ropes and...most important doubled over shock cord to take the weight of the mast when lowering. Mr. Boat Fixit Guy....Guy....giving a helping hand taking weight of mast when initial lowered. Whoooaaaa boy....mast plate lifting off screws undone things popping off everywhere. Mast foot stuck to plate and lifting everything within cooee so return mast to upright. Noted mast wanted to lean to left and took some getting back to upright....should have stopped there. undid plate from mast and attempted to lower again. Soon as mast got to about 60 degrees or so down it all came with Guy doing a backflip and I an Irish Jig to avoid being crushed to death by a falling mast that must weigh at least one hundred kilograms. Tim,penny mast can be lifted by one person this critter needs two just to slide it on the pushpit/pullpit. You would not believe it folks. The mast came down just far enough to give a boink on the hatchway coaming, a light hit, due to the rubber shock cord on the topping lift and main halyard ropes. Outstretched they held the mast horizontally !!!!!!!!!!! with the foot being pinned down by the ropes at their bottom tied off end. Part of the fall was restrained by the ally gin pole developing a nice bend but not snapping. Would you believe the good luck? No damage to the yacht not a scratch or dent. No killing of the hired help...OK then...change all ropes from ebay ...undo all rigging and get new from Hastings and get them to fit and raise mast...just motor over to hastings. Mr. BFG asked to give some advice re diesel motor operation and maintenance before he goes. Pulley came loose on water pump, belt needs replacing, pulley wobbling so replace water pump. Does anyone know where to get one please Yanmar ysm 8. Will fit a new starter motor and alternator too if can source. So...no motoring to hastings what do I do? Glen Botterill from boatyard to rescue...advises crane on back of truck locally so will replace all that needs replacing and get them to raise mast. What could have been an ugly ugly job now manageable thank God. Still a few jobs after that but looking forward to the day I get to sail and race this little beauty around Westernport. TBA.

I had this plate engraved with colours to indicate the length of chain that was out a while ago, finally pulled the entire length out and marked it with colours as per the plate. Also swapped ends so the bitter end is now the anchor end. Cleaned out the locker so no more muck to block the drains. It was a worthwile exercise, the second half of the 9o mtr chain didn't come out easily, it was all twisted and kept fouling the windlass, could have caused a problem if I was dragging and need more chain out quckly. It's all nicely flaked inside now so should come out easily if needed. Finally replaced the swivel and shackles as they were rusting.

oldboyracer said..
The process of standing masts and getting seaworthy again has started . Was picked up by the tender to tow my boat to the yard as she has not moved in three years . Made chain plates and took the advice of a fellow seabreezer and used a pipe bender to nudge the chain plates into shape . Started painting and scraping , cut 50 mm off bottom of mast( corrosion been there for ten years ) and made aluminium spacer to raise mast 50 mm , rewired mast , one hundred rivets in that one . After getting towed I could have probably motored except for flat battery . Altex number 5 for those interested after 3 years not moving . Out of interest are there any other yards left in Sydney area where you can still work on your own boat , or is the writing on the wall for those of us who enjoy " playing " with boats . Going to be hard to do that red stripe on the mooring and stay between the lines if that's the case .

Wow nice going. Any chance of the picture of your aluminium spacer as we are trying to do something similar with a friend's boat.

Sailing wide offshore today dragging a lure for a dolphin fish [mahi mahi]. No joy but the seawater is warm enough! Temperature gauge was about $2.30 posted to my door with batteries!

oldboyracer said..

julesmoto said..

oldboyracer said..
The process of standing masts and getting seaworthy again has started . Was picked up by the tender to tow my boat to the yard as she has not moved in three years . Made chain plates and took the advice of a fellow seabreezer and used a pipe bender to nudge the chain plates into shape . Started painting and scraping , cut 50 mm off bottom of mast( corrosion been there for ten years ) and made aluminium spacer to raise mast 50 mm , rewired mast , one hundred rivets in that one . After getting towed I could have probably motored except for flat battery . Altex number 5 for those interested after 3 years not moving . Out of interest are there any other yards left in Sydney area where you can still work on your own boat , or is the writing on the wall for those of us who enjoy " playing " with boats . Going to be hard to do that red stripe on the mooring and stay between the lines if that's the case .

Wow nice going. Any chance of the picture of your aluminium spacer as we are trying to do something similar with a friend's boat.

Just saw your post. I cut exactly 50mm off the bottom of the main mast due to corrosion around the mast block insert. I used a hacksaw carefully. The mast plug came out after I did a vertical cut on the 50mm stump. The weep hole was originally drilled 20mm from the base leaving a pool of water inside the mast, I'm no expert but that would not help. Finding 50mm aluminium was to hard so I used two pieces of 25mm , cut to the mast base size. Drilled and bored to suit Original mounting holes and electrical conduit . Longer bolts and bolted it all back No problems. Didn't take any pis but tried to crop a large pic down . Bost is in botany Bay if you want to take a closer look , just pm me .

Nice job thank you. We managed to find a nice thick block at Brookvale Aluminium Warehouse but cost quite a bit to get it cut down and shaped oval. Then 300 more to get it anodised. Ended up 62 mil thick. Did you find someone cheap to pull the mast for you while you installed the spacer and reinstalled the plug on top? We haven't actually installed it yet. Bit worried about whether the plug will come off the base relatively easily.