In the end couldn't resist the Dyneema sale at RTM so bought some 6 mm for the shrouds and 4mm for lashings.

Three components plus the Dyneema all that is necessary per shroud. I'm only doing the uppers at this stage and they go through a hole in the spreaders which I put about an inch of armored clear food quality water hose through to prevent chafe. Nice snug interference fit.

Once I had the shroud made up I realized that I had forgotten to thread the circular nylon disc on which sits on top of the shroud and is about 60 mm diameter so as to extend beyond the shroud and prevent the shroud chaffing the headsail. Ended up cutting a slot from the perimeter to the center and then filling with epoxy onece on the shroud.

In my haste to get the three splices done and as they were going so well I stupidly forgot that I needed to thread the whole shroud through the spreader hole as well so had to undo the splice of the lashing around the low friction ring. I didn't have enough four millimeter to just cut it and redo it so I undid the splice which was shockingly easy once puckered up and not in tension. Can certainly see why a locking Brummel splice is necessary. A few posts on the internet say that you can't re-splice but re-splicing it went like a charm with the necessary holes evident in the right places and of course the taper already done.

Anyway I left a steel shroud on one side to help see how much creep I'm getting and I've now tensioned it up three times in the yard and each time the Dyneema relaxes and top of the mast tilts over to the steel shroud side. Guess I'll keep going. The dyneema seems to run fairly well through the bow shackle so the absence of a second low friction ring at the bottom adjacent the chain plate doesn't seem to be a bother at least on this size of Dyneema.

I did upsize the dyneema from 5 to 6 to help combat creep so hopefully it will settle in and remain fairly static eventually.

Obviously if you were doing the exercise on a keel boat you wouldn't want to adopt the cavalier spur of the moment procedure I have this morning as any mistakes can't be simply rectified in five minutes by lowering the mast.Also any unexpected additional tools, filling epoxy. acetone.. that I needed might not be readily to hand.

julesmoto said..
In the end couldn't resist the Dyneema sale at RTM so bought some 6 mm for the shrouds and 4mm for lashings.

Three components plus the Dyneema all that is necessary per shroud. I'm only doing the uppers at this stage and they go through a hole in the spreaders which I put about an inch of armored clear food quality water hose through to prevent chafe. Nice snug interference fit.

Once I had the shroud made up I realized that I had forgotten to thread the circular nylon disc on which sits on top of the shroud and is about 60 mm diameter so as to extend beyond the shroud and prevent the shroud chaffing the headsail. Ended up cutting a slot from the perimeter to the center and then filling with epoxy onece on the shroud.

In my haste to get the three splices done and as they were going so well I stupidly forgot that I needed to thread the whole shroud through the spreader hole as well so had to undo the splice of the lashing around the low friction ring. I didn't have enough four millimeter to just cut it and redo it so I undid the splice which was shockingly easy once puckered up and not in tension. Can certainly see why a locking Brummel splice is necessary. A few posts on the internet say that you can't re-splice but re-splicing it went like a charm with the necessary holes evident in the right places and of course the taper already done.

Anyway I left a steel shroud on one side to help see how much creep I'm getting and I've now tensioned it up three times in the yard and each time the Dyneema relaxes and top of the mast tilts over to the steel shroud side. Guess I'll keep going. The dyneema seems to run fairly well through the bow shackle so the absence of a second low friction ring at the bottom adjacent the chain plate doesn't seem to be a bother at least on this size of Dyneema.

I did upsize the dyneema from 5 to 6 to help combat creep so hopefully it will settle in and remain fairly static eventually.

Obviously if you were doing the exercise on a keel boat you wouldn't want to adopt the cavalier spur of the moment procedure I have this morning as any mistakes can't be simply rectified in five minutes by lowering the mast.Also any unexpected additional tools, filling epoxy. acetone.. that I needed might not be readily to hand.

How did you affix the dyneema at the masthead.

Bananabender said..

julesmoto said..
In the end couldn't resist the Dyneema sale at RTM so bought some 6 mm for the shrouds and 4mm for lashings.

Three components plus the Dyneema all that is necessary per shroud. I'm only doing the uppers at this stage and they go through a hole in the spreaders which I put about an inch of armored clear food quality water hose through to prevent chafe. Nice snug interference fit.

Once I had the shroud made up I realized that I had forgotten to thread the circular nylon disc on which sits on top of the shroud and is about 60 mm diameter so as to extend beyond the shroud and prevent the shroud chaffing the headsail. Ended up cutting a slot from the perimeter to the center and then filling with epoxy onece on the shroud.

In my haste to get the three splices done and as they were going so well I stupidly forgot that I needed to thread the whole shroud through the spreader hole as well so had to undo the splice of the lashing around the low friction ring. I didn't have enough four millimeter to just cut it and redo it so I undid the splice which was shockingly easy once puckered up and not in tension. Can certainly see why a locking Brummel splice is necessary. A few posts on the internet say that you can't re-splice but re-splicing it went like a charm with the necessary holes evident in the right places and of course the taper already done.

Anyway I left a steel shroud on one side to help see how much creep I'm getting and I've now tensioned it up three times in the yard and each time the Dyneema relaxes and top of the mast tilts over to the steel shroud side. Guess I'll keep going. The dyneema seems to run fairly well through the bow shackle so the absence of a second low friction ring at the bottom adjacent the chain plate doesn't seem to be a bother at least on this size of Dyneema.

I did upsize the dyneema from 5 to 6 to help combat creep so hopefully it will settle in and remain fairly static eventually.

Obviously if you were doing the exercise on a keel boat you wouldn't want to adopt the cavalier spur of the moment procedure I have this morning as any mistakes can't be simply rectified in five minutes by lowering the mast.Also any unexpected additional tools, filling epoxy. acetone.. that I needed might not be readily to hand.

How did you affix the dyneema at the masthead.

Just passed it through its own loop around the T fitting ring. Probably should have done another splice but I figure the radius is sufficient to avoid degradation of strength plus others on YouTube have done it this way.

Dropped an alternator mounting bolt into the bilge down through the engine and simply cannot find it.
So glad I haven't got an aluminium boat. I thought you'd have to be a total dummy to do something like this or cut off wires and leave bits in the bilge but turns out it's very easy to do.

Shouldn't have started the engine with the alternator sitting loose on top just to make sure I'd put everything on except the alternator.

Thought aluminium boats were a great idea but maybe not.

Just need to train yourself to look harder for the bolt , regardless of what the boat is made of.

LIke Jules, I got excited about the Dyneema on sale. I bought some but will be picking up some new stainless shrouds for the trailer sailer today. I think Dyneema is great for those boats that can set the rig up permanently but with me pulling the mast down I get lots of stretch every time I go sailing. I also realised, none of the skiffs or other dinghies I race on use Dyneema for stays - plenty used elsewhere on skiffs - so maybe it was dumb to try it for shrouds.

Ramona said..

julesmoto said..
Dropped an alternator mounting bolt into the bilge down through the engine and simply cannot find it.
So glad I haven't got an aluminium boat. I thought you'd have to be a total dummy to do something like this or cut off wires and leave bits in the bilge but turns out it's very easy to do.

Shouldn't have started the engine with the alternator sitting loose on top just to make sure I'd put everything on except the alternator.

Thought aluminium boats were a great idea but maybe not.

Magnet on an adjustable rod. Buy one with a light on it too!

I bought a boroscope from Bunnings for $75. It has a light on the end and it gets in tight spots. Very useful tool.
www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-8mm-x-1m-digital-inspection-camera-odic-4810_p0193812

What's the name of your boat Jules? We leave tomorrow for Airile with the trailerable cat.

I haven't thought up a name that has stuck, I just call it "The Seven" as she is 7 metres long. We will probably launch at Cannonvale and leave the trailer at storage. Just my wife and me, leaving tomorrow or Sunday, it would be nice to be sailing by Tuesday arvo to get out before the wind blows too hard.

Kankama said..
I haven't thought up a name that has stuck, I just call it "The Seven" as she is 7 metres long. We will probably launch at Cannonvale and leave the trailer at storage. Just my wife and me, leaving tomorrow or Sunday, it would be nice to be sailing by Tuesday arvo to get out before the wind blows too hard.

Safe trip. Looks good. Where is the trailer storage?
Predicted rain in Syd for a week or more so you are getting out at the right time. Thought I'd get my boat facing the right way with the tow ball accessible from the hard driveway as the front yard grass storage area will get all slippery but it was already too slippery and had to get a mate to tow me across my own front yard this evening. Got it nearly straight coming out of the U-turn but then bogged. Massive trenches in the yard now. Embarrassing!

Woohoo said..
I waved goodbye to my old boat and her new owner. Heartbreaking.

That can be hard.

One new screen installed, a new radar and one more screen to go. Shouldn't have gone to the boat show

JonE said..
Nice tidy install. Which unit is that?

I bought 2 x Axiom 2 pro12s screens and got a free radar on a boat show special. Hadn't planned on upgrading quite so soon, it was a good deal with the free radar.

Going to sell the house now to pay for it.

Added two 300w flexible solar panels via a Victron 100/50 controller which takes the total to 1800w of solar now.
They were only "cheapies" so it will be interesting to see how long they last!!

I bought her .

Currently known as 'Insert Name Here' until the right new name comes to me in an epiphany.