Yeah, I had 2 shackles & a swivel replaced!!

Most expensive service yet!!

Mast out and began strip down today ,
rigging and chain plates to be attacked over the weekend

woko said..

welsh said..
Mast out and began strip down today ,
rigging and chain plates to be attacked over the weekend

Obviously an established riggers yard. May I ask where ?

Looks like Joe Walsh's area and mast dolly.

How old is the mast? One spreader needs fixing obviously. Depends what your budget is - Joe will advise - does he allow you to do the fittings removal and re-rivet and re-bed and mast re-paint work?. Suggest if there is any paint bubbling on the mast paint adjacent to stainless fittings that all the rivets securing these are drilled out and the whole fitting removed. Wire brush and sand the mast, clean up the stainless, etch prime and 2 polyurethane re-coat the mast - would do the whole lot while you are at it - re-rivet the fittings with suitable strength monel or stainless rivets - use sufficient Tefgel to isolate the rivets and the stainless from the aluminium.
Good blogs here; Jolene's excellent input in the first one very similar to your needs I would expect.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/mast-and-boom-paint?page=1
www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/revive-your-mast-like-a-pro-2
forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/mast-refurbishment-cleaning.471040/

Ok. The third link above includes input from a person who rolled and tipped Interprotect and Toplac on to good results. I have brushed 3 mast re-paint jobs with etch primer and 2 pack polyurethane and was happy with the results. Need a good brush especially for the 2 topcoats.

Congratulations on rebuilding and resurfacing your mast, I wish I had done the same thing when I had the chance.

Based on my own limited experience:
1) as you are doing, replace all the lighting with LEDs.
2) unless the existing VHF antenna and cabling is near new, replace both.
3) consider adding a second VHF antenna as an AIS or spare VHF antenna.
4) consider a wireless wind speed and direction sensor to reduce the cabling in the mast.
5) if the mast doesn't have one already, add a cable conduit down the inside of the mast to carry the wiring.
6) if the mast is keel-stepped, consider adding covers or hoods over the shroud entry and the halyard exit points to deflect water accumulating on the mast and stop it from running down the inside of the mast.

Good luck,
Kinora

Picked up my new (to me) boat yesterday and motored her from Rushcutters Bay to her new home in Hen and Chicken Bay at Abbotsford.
I was pretty nervous as to whether we would touch bottom in the Bay as it is very shallow in places and I am a fair way in. No active depth sounder on the boat yet.

Picked up my transducer from the old boat today. I am going to run all over the bay in my tender and map it so I know really how much water I am playing with.

Finally got around to getting my electric windlass working properly.
Has one directional drive to pull up but the release clutch for playing had been seized so couldn't readily play out the chain.
to date what would normally be the secondary anchor has been my ready use anchor.
The hefty dansforth with about 5 metres of chain and lots of rode (as pictured in that open forward l locker in the top picture.
The primary is a heaven CQR (currently stored down below) to use on all chain with windlass.

A new issue to resolve..


The hawse pipe down to the main locker has a very poorly positioned drop point.






Forms small pile near peaked section of locker which promptly stops winch from being able to freely feed more chain.
Plan A is too angle/extend the hawse-pipe back to a better drop-point . The locker has plenty of depth further back.
it looks like the previous owner situated the drop pipe so as not to impinge on v-berth space.
If plan A doesn't give a satisfactory improvement, plan B is to build the chain locker up.

woko said..
Wildemann, good work getting the windlass to operate properly, a ceased cone clutch yes ? I'm surprised that any chain at all travels down that skinny pipe, and yes a bigger area for the chain to pyramid in will help, and a bigger ( much bigger) pipe will help as chain can pile up in there too. Stainless chain is much smoother and tends to pile up less and spread out more. Look for a bigger pipe, it's a lot cheaper than stainless chain !

Thanks Woko.
Those sound like like good suggestions.

Finally finished stripping the paint off the mast and boom. What a bloody time consuming (20+hours)tedious job. any hints of accelerating the process above applying paint stripper(several times) should be shared ??
on a side note, I am very glad that I persisted as I found a crack in the boom which I will be sleeving and welding to correct. I would not have found it had I not stripped the paint from it?
A lucky find indeed

welsh said..
Thanks in advance for any more tips on what else to do while I'm in this deep

Would a heat gun work?

woko said..
Wildemann, good work getting the windlass to operate properly, a ceased cone clutch yes ? I'm surprised that any chain at all travels down that skinny pipe, and yes a bigger area for the chain to pyramid in will help, and a bigger ( much bigger) pipe will help as chain can pile up in there too. Stainless chain is much smoother and tends to pile up less and spread out more. Look for a bigger pipe, it's a lot cheaper than stainless chain !

Fixed!
Bigger pipe feeding back to deep section of locker now working perfectly.
Thanks Woko.

Had the luxury years ago of well-seasoned Merbau (now everything is freshly cut) sourced from a mate who's company made external staircases. There was never an issue with bleeding. When it was cut it looked like a polished steel surface, and felt like it weighed the same. Now we just have to live with our First-World problems...bleeding and long supply times!. Just be thankful you're not a Ukrainian citizen waiting for the Russians to stop bombing (liberating) them and all their infrastructure coming into winter.

GKandCC said..
Had the luxury years ago of well-seasoned Merbau (now everything is freshly cut) sourced from a mate who's company made external staircases. There was never an issue with bleeding. When it was cut it looked like a polished steel surface, and felt like it weighed the same. Now we just have to live with our First-World problems...bleeding and long supply times!. Just be thankful you're not a Ukrainian citizen waiting for the Russians to stop bombing (liberating) them and all their infrastructure coming into winter.

I totally agree 1st world problem. I've worked with kwila many times and know what I was in for, I investigated lots of alternative timber & composites, nothing comes near it for durability & price. The decks & topsides need repainting after the grinding and welding, so let it bleed, it will stop eventually.

Started to clean up the deck using the Semco system