now light mounted in a case... so happy with how easy it is to turn off now... no more guess work!

your not just a pretty face Anita, that's thinking out of the box!

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Rolz said..
now light mounted in a case... so happy with how easy it is to turn off now... no more guess work!

I see you're using the button battery flat.
Jan says it works better on it's side.
Can you confirm that with the LED?

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decrepit said..

Rolz said..
now light mounted in a case... so happy with how easy it is to turn off now... no more guess work!

I see you're using the button battery flat.
Jan says it works better on it's side.
Can you confirm that with the LED?

what do u mean with "button battery flat"?

The button battery has two flat sides and one round edge, N and S are on the edge apparently, so the flat sides have weaker magnetism. The advice is to use the magnet edge on instead of the flat side.

This is counter intuitive, the natural action is to place a flat side against the device. It would be good if you can see if it actually makes any difference to how far away you can get the LED to light up.

Select to expand quote

decrepit said..
The button battery has two flat sides and one round edge, N and S are on the edge apparently, so the flat sides have weaker magnetism. The advice is to use the magnet edge on instead of the flat side.

This is counter intuitive, the natural action is to place a flat side against the device. It would be good if you can see if it actually makes any difference to how far away you can get the LED to light up.

ah ok... yeah that magnet is out of somewhere else and I found it had the most success with turning off my units (prior to light mod) than the flat disk or rectangle units I can buy off Aliexpress... it's now in the hands of one of my team members to test and use at Burrum.

Now SW 5.74 is now on github with next changes :
SW5.74
Debouncing reed switch with 200ms @boot ( to prevent turning on with heavy shocks)
Shutdown screen 10s -> 5s
Bat voltage calibration limits min value 1.7 -> 1.6
Bugfix GPIO12 screens
Changed default settings when no config.txt
Add watchtdog to task0 + task1 separat, Time out = 60 s (to recover out of a locked screen)
Changed order Wifi screen, so IP is not in the middle anymore
Check bat voltage@boot, if too low back to sleep. This to prevent a bootloop
Separate Change_log.md file

github.com/RP6conrad/ESP-GPS-Logger/blob/master/README.md

Greetings, Jan

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rp6conrad said..
Now SW 5.74 is now on github with next changes :
SW5.74
Debouncing reed switch with 200ms @boot ( to prevent turning on with heavy shocks)
Shutdown screen 10s -> 5s
Bat voltage calibration limits min value 1.7 -> 1.6
Bugfix GPIO12 screens
Changed default settings when no config.txt
Add watchtdog to task0 + task1 separat, Time out = 60 s (to recover out of a locked screen)
Changed order Wifi screen, so IP is not in the middle anymore
Check bat voltage@boot, if too low back to sleep. This to prevent a bootloop
Separate Change_log.md file

github.com/RP6conrad/ESP-GPS-Logger/blob/master/README.md

Greetings, Jan

Thank you for your continued work on, and support with this project

Select to expand quote

rp6conrad said..
Now SW 5.74 is now on github with next changes :
SW5.74
Debouncing reed switch with 200ms @boot ( to prevent turning on with heavy shocks)
Shutdown screen 10s -> 5s
Bat voltage calibration limits min value 1.7 -> 1.6
Bugfix GPIO12 screens
Changed default settings when no config.txt
Add watchtdog to task0 + task1 separat, Time out = 60 s (to recover out of a locked screen)
Changed order Wifi screen, so IP is not in the middle anymore
Check bat voltage@boot, if too low back to sleep. This to prevent a bootloop
Separate Change_log.md file

github.com/RP6conrad/ESP-GPS-Logger/blob/master/README.md

Greetings, Jan

Thanks for the update! These seem to be some useful changes.
Unfortunately it doesn't seem to update. After flashing (Rtos5.74B73.bin) and restarting it still displays 'SW-ver 5.73'.
Anyone else having the same issue?

This is strange, I downloaded SW5.74B73 from github and flashed it on my logger, and it gives me the correct SW verson 5.74. Something must go wrong with flashing, if there is a problem, the old sw will load again.
Did you get the "100% progress" on the webpage ? After that the logger should reboot.

Yes, strange indeed, since the progress bar completes to 100% en then it restarts. I've tested it multiple times (also with a freshly downloaded bin file).
I also tried downgrading to an older version, but 5.73 is very persistent :D

Maybe my board is damaged somehow, since I had to remove the charging chip. I blew up the charging circuit due to reversing the polarity I then attached a separate charging circuit but I noticed power drain when in sleep; over night it lost 30%. So after removing the damaged chip all seems to work ok. Untill now :)

I have an issue with this GPS.
I'm not technical so I apologize for the may-be obvious question.

I think I have a short somewere but I'm not sure.
I replaced the reed switch as it became "always closed" .
I've put in a new one but after reassembling and switching on the 'normaly open" reed switch became "always closed" again.
So I guess there is a short or some wires are put on the wrong way.
As I didn't put the device together myself I don't know which wire goes where. ( and I don't know which color is what)

I have the reed switch in GND -39
gps white wire - 32
gps green wire - 33
gps red wire - 27 ( also connected to 25-26)
gps black wire - gnd

Also I do not have the on/of slide switch on the screen.

Is there someone has any idea were i should look.

Thanks !!

Anton
Netherlands

Did it worked before ? The short is most likely in the button gpio39 (waterintrusion ?). You can remove this button. There is no slide button on/off ? Do you have a multimeter ? You find more information here : github.com/RP6conrad/ESP-GPS-Logger#readme
There is a link to the build manual with the color coding.
Greetings, Jan.

Select to expand quote

Antoneurope said..
I have an issue with this GPS.
I'm not technical so I apologize for the may-be obvious question.

I think I have a short somewere but I'm not sure.
I replaced the reed switch as it became "always closed" .
I've put in a new one but after reassembling and switching on the 'normaly open" reed switch became "always closed" again.
So I guess there is a short or some wires are put on the wrong way.
As I didn't put the device together myself I don't know which wire goes where. ( and I don't know which color is what)

I have the reed switch in GND -39
gps white wire - 32
gps green wire - 33
gps red wire - 27 ( also connected to 25-26)
gps black wire - gnd

Also I do not have the on/of slide switch on the screen.

Is there someone has any idea were i should look.

Thanks !!

Anton
Netherlands

I'd recommend first go at building do everything but for the reed switch... that way ur sure all works then give the reed switch a go.

First pooring experiment, with the compact case and a broken display (no gps or battery). Just to try. I made just enough for this flirst (half empty) case (50gr). It poors nicely from the display down until full.

Unfortunately, although it holds water, it does not hold the pooring epoxy. Why is that? Seems that I have to use 2k lack on the inside first... it runs empty, slowly but surely. Visible own the picture below:
Any tips are more than welcome.

Select to expand quote

Freezer said..
First pooring experiment, with the compact case and a broken display (no gps or battery). Just to try. I made just enough for this flirst (half empty) case (50gr). It poors nicely from the display down until full.
Unfortunately, although it holds water, it does not hold the pooring epoxy. Why is that? Seems that I have to use 2k lack on the inside first... it runs empty, slowly but surely. Visible own the picture below:
Any tips are more than welcome.

How about sealing the outside with tape, then the pour will fill the gaps in the wall, making it really water tight.

Strange that it's water tight but not resin tight. Maybe a difference in surface tension? Although water will "wick" because of that, think we need a physicist.

Isn't there some sort of coating that helps the resin spread and adhere. We used to coat insects with it before surrounding them with resin.

The support for the open source gpy file format is growing ! The latest version of gpsresults (Manfred Fuchs) can read the gpy format, and as this sw is used as backend in gps-speedsurfing.com, from now on gpy files can be uploaded to gp3s.
Some links :
github.com/prichterich/compactgnss : Description of the gpy format
ecwindfest.org/GPS/GPSSpeedreader.html : Excellent Analysis sw for gps files, gpy support.
www.gps-speed.com/download_e.html : Analysis sw from Manfred Fuchs, is used as backend in gp3s, is the common standard, gpy support.
www.gps-speedsurfing.com/
Thanks to everyone who contribute to this project !!
Greetings, Jan.

^Like

Fantastic jan! Well done.

Select to expand quote

Freezer said..
First pooring experiment, with the compact case and a broken display (no gps or battery). Just to try. I made just enough for this flirst (half empty) case (50gr). It poors nicely from the display down until full.

Unfortunately, although it holds water, it does not hold the pooring epoxy. Why is that? Seems that I have to use 2k lack on the inside first... it runs empty, slowly but surely. Visible own the picture below:
Any tips are more than welcome.

3D prints are not water proof, hence the need to fill the case with potting epoxy, hoever, as you have found the boxes are also porous to the potting epoxy. It also looks like you have not covered the screen with a clear faceplate, and it looks like there is some capillarity and siphoning happening around the edges also. You need to seal the outside of the box before filling with epoxy. What most 3D printing people have found works best for water proofing is Rustoleum - a 2 part epoxy spray. It gives a nice finish to the 3D print too. I used botecote on my first pair, but to get a good finish you have to do each side seaparately. The Rustoleum is more forgiving, but does tend to run with gravity. Use a number of thin layers so you don't get drips.
I see you have designed your own boxes. If you are using Flex' boom mount box do not seal the inside of the box as it is designed with very little empty space and you may have trouble fitting the components in if some space is taken up by a coat of sealant.

Select to expand quote

Windxtasy said..

Freezer said..
First pooring experiment, with the compact case and a broken display (no gps or battery). Just to try. I made just enough for this flirst (half empty) case (50gr). It poors nicely from the display down until full.

Unfortunately, although it holds water, it does not hold the pooring epoxy. Why is that? Seems that I have to use 2k lack on the inside first... it runs empty, slowly but surely. Visible own the picture below:
Any tips are more than welcome.

3D prints are not water proof, hence the need to fill the case with potting epoxy, hoever, as you have found the boxes are also porous to the potting epoxy. It also looks like you have not covered the screen with a clear faceplate, and it looks like there is some capillarity and siphoning happening around the edges also. You need to seal the outside of the box before filling with epoxy. What most 3D printing people have found works best for water proofing is Rustoleum - a 2 part epoxy spray. It gives a nice finish to the 3D print too. I used botecote on my first pair, but to get a good finish you have to do each side seaparately. The Rustoleum is more forgiving, but does tend to run with gravity. Use a number of thin layers so you don't get drips.
I see you have designed your own boxes. If you are using Flex' boom mount box do not seal the inside of the box as it is designed with very little empty space and you may have trouble fitting the components in if some space is taken up by a coat of sealant.

Yes, you're right. I thought I could get away with it, since my water-stay-in test was succesfull. And it saves some time-consuming steps in assembly. I think indeed the different surface tension of the epoxy and the capillarity caused it to leak while the water was just fine. I will use the 2k DD lack, that I still have laying around, to seal the larger housing that can re-open with screws. Probably does not need all that much. Only the small inlay to keep the PCB nicely centered and flat has a tight fit, the rest has enough clearance to fit.
I don't facy a (thick) faceplate and hope that a 1-2mm resin cover provides enough protection for the epaper. Or need to try some gorilla-glass. I have a nice frame that only shows the epaper part with the pixels. I have a few waiting for a succesfull pooring:

Select to expand quote

Freezer said..

Windxtasy said..

Freezer said..
First pooring experiment, with the compact case and a broken display (no gps or battery). Just to try. I made just enough for this flirst (half empty) case (50gr). It poors nicely from the display down until full.

Unfortunately, although it holds water, it does not hold the pooring epoxy. Why is that? Seems that I have to use 2k lack on the inside first... it runs empty, slowly but surely. Visible own the picture below:
Any tips are more than welcome.

3D prints are not water proof, hence the need to fill the case with potting epoxy, hoever, as you have found the boxes are also porous to the potting epoxy. It also looks like you have not covered the screen with a clear faceplate, and it looks like there is some capillarity and siphoning happening around the edges also. You need to seal the outside of the box before filling with epoxy. What most 3D printing people have found works best for water proofing is Rustoleum - a 2 part epoxy spray. It gives a nice finish to the 3D print too. I used botecote on my first pair, but to get a good finish you have to do each side seaparately. The Rustoleum is more forgiving, but does tend to run with gravity. Use a number of thin layers so you don't get drips.
I see you have designed your own boxes. If you are using Flex' boom mount box do not seal the inside of the box as it is designed with very little empty space and you may have trouble fitting the components in if some space is taken up by a coat of sealant.

Yes, you're right. I thought I could get away with it, since my water-stay-in test was succesfull. And it saves some time-consuming steps in assembly. I think indeed the different surface tension of the epoxy and the capillarity caused it to leak while the water was just fine. I will use the 2k DD lack, that I still have laying around, to seal the larger housing that can re-open with screws. Probably does not need all that much. Only the small inlay to keep the PCB nicely centered and flat has a tight fit, the rest has enough clearance to fit.
I don't facy a (thick) faceplate and hope that a 1-2mm resin cover provides enough protection for the epaper. Or need to try some gorilla-glass. I have a nice frame that only shows the epaper part with the pixels. I have a few waiting for a succesfull pooring:

Your cases are very elegant. I am interested to see how they go on the water.
Where do you plan to wear them?
I am a bit concerned about how much protection the pouring epoxy will give to the E paper in a crash/ normal wear and tear as it is quite flexible

Select to expand quote

Windxtasy said..

Freezer said..

Windxtasy said..

Freezer said..
First pooring experiment, with the compact case and a broken display (no gps or battery). Just to try. I made just enough for this flirst (half empty) case (50gr). It poors nicely from the display down until full.

Unfortunately, although it holds water, it does not hold the pooring epoxy. Why is that? Seems that I have to use 2k lack on the inside first... it runs empty, slowly but surely. Visible own the picture below:
Any tips are more than welcome.

3D prints are not water proof, hence the need to fill the case with potting epoxy, hoever, as you have found the boxes are also porous to the potting epoxy. It also looks like you have not covered the screen with a clear faceplate, and it looks like there is some capillarity and siphoning happening around the edges also. You need to seal the outside of the box before filling with epoxy. What most 3D printing people have found works best for water proofing is Rustoleum - a 2 part epoxy spray. It gives a nice finish to the 3D print too. I used botecote on my first pair, but to get a good finish you have to do each side seaparately. The Rustoleum is more forgiving, but does tend to run with gravity. Use a number of thin layers so you don't get drips.
I see you have designed your own boxes. If you are using Flex' boom mount box do not seal the inside of the box as it is designed with very little empty space and you may have trouble fitting the components in if some space is taken up by a coat of sealant.

Yes, you're right. I thought I could get away with it, since my water-stay-in test was succesfull. And it saves some time-consuming steps in assembly. I think indeed the different surface tension of the epoxy and the capillarity caused it to leak while the water was just fine. I will use the 2k DD lack, that I still have laying around, to seal the larger housing that can re-open with screws. Probably does not need all that much. Only the small inlay to keep the PCB nicely centered and flat has a tight fit, the rest has enough clearance to fit.
I don't facy a (thick) faceplate and hope that a 1-2mm resin cover provides enough protection for the epaper. Or need to try some gorilla-glass. I have a nice frame that only shows the epaper part with the pixels. I have a few waiting for a succesfull pooring:

Your cases are very elegant. I am interested to see how they go on the water.
Where do you plan to wear them?
I am a bit concerned about how much protection the pouring epoxy will give to the E paper in a crash/ normal wear and tear as it is quite flexible

Thanks. Time will tell. I have now 1 dummy and it feels really solid. I think the pouring epoxy will provide enough protection. However it will not survive a straight hit in the middle of the screen with a stick or something pointy. Wearing it on the upperarm. Have been using a Gyro in a pouch, that has an LCD without any protection (pouch is just for waterproofing). No damage ever, while I had some serious crashes (), not on the GPS I must say. I broke booms, boards, etc..

hey all... having an issue with downloading ubx files larger than 8MB it seems to reboot my device...
Also anyone else noticing wifi speed is really slow or is that just me?

One of my units drops about 1 percent per day while standing. The other 3 percent per day. I wonder if it's the battery correction I applied in the config file to one of them.

Rolz, better of downloading GPY file,and analizing through GPS Speedreader, files way smaller. My filesnormally about ~1Mb take around 10 sec to download.

Rob, the unit will consume some power as it still updates the screen (I believe t does anyway), if sitting idle for a couple of weeks slam it on the charger before you go out.

Rob I have no definite numbers, but one of my batteries seems to discharge quicker than the other. same firmware in each. Could be a battery issue?

Select to expand quote

Rolz said..
hey all... having an issue with downloading ubx files larger than 8MB it seems to reboot my device...
Also anyone else noticing wifi speed is really slow or is that just me?

I did some tests today, and it seems that there is a reboot with large files (10 MB worked here, 18 MB forces a reboot after 2 min). I could be the watchdog (60s), I am not sure yet. With FTP (WinSCP), the download from the 18 MB file went well, although it took 4 minutes.
Can you give it a try with FTP ?

Select to expand quote

remery said..
One of my units drops about 1 percent per day while standing. The other 3 percent per day. I wonder if it's the battery correction I applied in the config file to one of them.

Older versions of the T5 e-paper had a blue LED which was always on. Current consumption was >1.5 mA in deepsleep. The newer version are without LED, these only needs 0.5 mA in deepsleep. Wake up to refresh the screen is now every 3000 s.
The battery correction has a minor influence to the loss % /day. I guess it is the battery itself, or a older version with blue LED.
I recharge my loggers every month or so when not in use. Do not let them run completely flat, as this is not good for the lipo.
Greetings, Jan.