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Windxtasy said..
Thank you Jan, but what I need to know is how to download the config file from Github to the SD card.

put the sd card into a computer copy file across then put into the esp32...

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Rolz said..

Windxtasy said..
Thank you Jan, but what I need to know is how to download the config file from Github to the SD card.

put the sd card into a computer copy file across then put into the esp32...

I can't copy the file from github onto the SD card.
I can put the SD card into the adapter and connect it to the computer.
I can't copy the config file
All I can do is either open the config file OR copy the link to github

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Windxtasy said..

Rolz said..

Windxtasy said..
Thank you Jan, but what I need to know is how to download the config file from Github to the SD card.

put the sd card into a computer copy file across then put into the esp32...

I can't copy the file from github onto the SD card.
I can put the SD card into the adapter and connect it to the computer.
I can't copy the config file
All I can do is either open the config file OR copy the link to github

hmm strange, it's just a txt so u can copy contents in to a new txt file on ur computer...

here u go, here is my one I have saved
1drv.ms/t/s!AmQrWIeMRVVGisYWMaocpXHqc11Pfg?e=EyBwPr

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rp6conrad said..

Rolz said
Hi Jan, just going back to the LED for the reed switch activation, would it be just a matter of putting in a LED (with resistor in built) after the switch and before the ground connection?Would something like this suffice?www.digikey.com.au/en/products/detail/kingbright/WP710A10SURDK5V/16602157
Waiting for some more bits to arrive for my next build so thought I'd give it a go whilst building this one.

No, this LED has a forward voltage of 5V (build in resistor I guess). What you want is a LED with a forward voltage of 3.3 V. A standard LED without resistor can be used, but you have to use a resistor (200 ohm +/-) in series.
The LED comes between GPIO39 and 3.3V. Normal state of GPIO39 = high (3.3V). If the reed switch is actuated, the state will be low (GND).
On the site of digikey, you have a search field Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ), there you can choose the 3.3V

Greetings, Jan.

Works a treat!! So much easier!

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Rolz said..

Windxtasy said..

Rolz said..

Windxtasy said..
Thank you Jan, but what I need to know is how to download the config file from Github to the SD card.

put the sd card into a computer copy file across then put into the esp32...

I can't copy the file from github onto the SD card.
I can put the SD card into the adapter and connect it to the computer.
I can't copy the config file
All I can do is either open the config file OR copy the link to github

hmm strange, it's just a txt so u can copy contents in to a new txt file on ur computer...

here u go, here is my one I have saved
1drv.ms/t/s!AmQrWIeMRVVGisYWMaocpXHqc11Pfg?e=EyBwPr

I could copy the file but I could not paste it anywhere.
Anyway, I just copied the config file from the units I already have and modified that for a new user

HELP please !!
I have just finished building 2 new units.
same components as my first.
BN 220 B74 E paper screen.
they are runningn getting satellite fixes, and recording speeds but won't turn off.
every time I use the magnet, regardless of for how long, they juts restart.
I put SW V 5.73 B74 on both, then I tried 5.72 B 74 on one, in case it was the new software version, but no change.
I can turn the unit off and get a sleep screen by holding down the small button closest to the corner
They will both turn back on with the magnet.

This must be a hardware issue, as the button works normal. The reed switch has to give a solid connection to GND for at least 1500 ms. Can you measure the voltage between GPIO39 and GND while using the reed switch ? No magnet = 3.3V, magnet = steady 0 V.

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rp6conrad said..
This must be a hardware issue, as the button works normal. The reed switch has to give a solid connection to GND for at least 1500 ms. Can you measure the voltage between GPIO39 and GND while using the reed switch ? No magnet = 3.3V, magnet = steady 0 V.

Voltage is 3.28V both with and without magnet

Can be a bad reed switch, or a bad solderjoint. Try another reed switch. Test the reed switch before soldering : resistance measuring. With magnet, you should have 0 - 1 ohm.

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rp6conrad said..
Can be a bad reed switch, or a bad solderjoint. Try another reed switch. Test the reed switch before soldering : resistance measuring. With magnet, you should have 0 - 1 ohm.

with all the reed switches in the units, and the unused ones, the resistance changed when a magnet was brought near but it was so variable depending on orienation of the leaves of the reed switch and orientation of the magnet that it was impossible to be confident of the result. 0.5 was the most common result, but often the same switch would give no reading at all. Often one reed switch gave both sorts of readings on different approaches of the magnet.
Both units turned on when the reed swtich was activated, and I can hear them click, so they have to be working, right?
But still neither unit will turn off using the reed switch.
I guess I need to replace the reed switches and try again

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Windxtasy said..

rp6conrad said..
Can be a bad reed switch, or a bad solderjoint. Try another reed switch. Test the reed switch before soldering : resistance measuring. With magnet, you should have 0 - 1 ohm.

with all the reed switches in the units, and the unused ones, the resistance changed when a magnet was brought near but it was so variable it was impossible to be confident of the result. 0.5 was the most common result, but many were in the 20s. Often one reed switch gave both sorts of readings on different approaches of the magnet.
Both units turned on when the reed swtich was activated, and I can hear them click, so they have to be working, right?
But still neither unit will turn off using the reed switch.

I had lots of issues turning mine off too. I found using the continuity tester worked best for finding which way round I should solder the reed switch for best contact inside my case as well as now using the led to give extra visuals on confirmation reed switch was activated inside case.

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Rolz said..

Windxtasy said..

rp6conrad said..
Can be a bad reed switch, or a bad solderjoint. Try another reed switch. Test the reed switch before soldering : resistance measuring. With magnet, you should have 0 - 1 ohm.

with all the reed switches in the units, and the unused ones, the resistance changed when a magnet was brought near but it was so variable it was impossible to be confident of the result. 0.5 was the most common result, but many were in the 20s. Often one reed switch gave both sorts of readings on different approaches of the magnet.
Both units turned on when the reed swtich was activated, and I can hear them click, so they have to be working, right?
But still neither unit will turn off using the reed switch.

I had lots of issues turning mine off too. I found using the continuity tester worked best for finding which way round I should solder the reed switch for best contact inside my case as well as now using the led to give extra visuals on confirmation reed switch was activated inside case.

excuse my ignorance but what is a continuity tester?
I saw something about an extra LED a few pages back, can you post that again please, and what kind of LED to use?
Thanks.

On your multimeter, you can set a "continuity" mode : it gives a beep when the leads are shorted. This is a easy way to test reed switches. You can add a LED between GPIO39 and 3.3V. I ordered these LEDs (do have a build in resistor) : nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005002783975262.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.609c79d2mdgfUV&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
You can use a single LED, but then a resistor has to be in series (+/- 200 ohm).


Greetings, Jan.

Anita, orientation of reed and magnet is critical. flat side of reed needs to fave magnet, and if it's a button magnet, it needs to be side on for best effect.
Since I realised this I've had no trouble turning off.
The LED is a good idea, I'll incorporate that in my next build.

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rp6conrad said..
On your multimeter, you can set a "continuity" mode : it gives a beep when the leads are shorted. This is a easy way to test reed switches. You can add a LED between GPIO39 and 3.3V. I ordered these LEDs (do have a build in resistor) : nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005002783975262.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.609c79d2mdgfUV&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
You can use a single LED, but then a resistor has to be in series (+/- 200 ohm).


Greetings, Jan.

Thanks Jan.
I can't find a continuity mode on my cheap multimeter.
I had a look at that link, where does it say theLEDs have inbuilt resistance?
Is 3 V or 5 V best?
EDIT:
In looking at your image above of where the LED needed to go I realised that I had soldered the reed switches to RST instead of GPIO39!
silly me. I guess because RST sounds like it should be reed switch terminal... I have moved them now and they turn off very readily.
It is surprising that they turned the units on.

Good to hear that you found the problem. We learned the most of our failures !
The reset will wake up the device out of deepsleep, but it will never send the ESP32 to deepsleep (but the button 39 still can send the ESP to deepsleep). So, indeed a hard to find problem, as it seems to work partly...
For the LED, you need the 3V version (has a build in resistor).

Greetings, Jan.

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Windxtasy said..

rp6conrad said..
On your multimeter, you can set a "continuity" mode : it gives a beep when the leads are shorted. This is a easy way to test reed switches. You can add a LED between GPIO39 and 3.3V. I ordered these LEDs (do have a build in resistor) : nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005002783975262.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.609c79d2mdgfUV&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
You can use a single LED, but then a resistor has to be in series (+/- 200 ohm).


Greetings, Jan.

Thanks Jan.
I can't find a continuity mode on my cheap multimeter.
I had a look at that link, where does it say theLEDs have inbuilt resistance?
Is 3 V or 5 V best?
EDIT:
In looking at your image above of where the LED needed to go I realised that I had soldered the reed switches to RST instead of GPIO39!
silly me. I guess because RST sounds like it should be reed switch terminal... I have moved them now and they turn off very readily.
It is surprising that they turned the units on.

I did this once in my earlier builds as well.
here nice info on what continuity option looks like on a multi-meter...
www.wikihow.com/Test-Continuity-with-a-Multimeter

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Windxtasy said..
Thanks Jan.
I can't find a continuity mode on my cheap multimeter.
I had a look at that link, where does it say theLEDs have inbuilt resistance?
Is 3 V or 5 V best?
EDIT:
In looking at your image above of where the LED needed to go I realised that I had soldered the reed switches to RST instead of GPIO39!
silly me. I guess because RST sounds like it should be reed switch terminal... I have moved them now and they turn off very readily.
It is surprising that they turned the units on.

In that case you want the ohms range. and just measure resistance.

A question regarding the second reed switch for looking at alphas and 5X10.
That facility has not been working on my original units for quite some time. I had assumed the reed switches may have broken, but now that I have built two new units the second reed switch is not giving me the extra screens on those new units either.
I have checked the reed switches are working and that they are soldered beween GPIO12 and ground.

I am wondering if that facility has been lost with the more recent software upgrades, as one of my team mates cannot get that function to work either.

I checked this, and it seems that I delete this function unintended (SW 5.60 ?) . I didn't notice, as the second reed switch is not in my normal testing when changing software. I will fix it for the next update.
Greetings, Jan.

Hi, new member here. A few weeks ago I built my own speedlogger and was finally able to use it last weekend! Worked great! Thanks Jan for the software and the inspiration :)

Regarding the second reed switch I assumed mine wasn't working since I saw no changes in the screens. But now it seems to be a software problem. Wat a relief, since I had to open mine twice due to different reasons.

I cannot post images yet, but I have 3D printed a case that is attached to my forearm (near my elbow) using a strap. I'm reasonably satisfied with this position, since it is readable most of the time.

BTW, anyone looking for an idea to waterproof your 3D-print; i've used a rubber spray and it seems to be working great. In the local hardware store I found Maston Rubbercomp but I think Plastidip is more common and better available in other countries.

I just finished a banner to attract some attention to this great development. More users = more ideas = more power! Feel free to use elsewhere as well. I'm not sure if the GIF will move and scroll through the tekst as intended inside this post.
The picture was taken from video that I shot last Saturday where I took the small 3D case with M10 and 1300mAh for a spin. Not yet poored, so in a pouch.

Someone was taking photos on the water the other day, the speed was clearly visible on the device as I went by.

Can someone please tell me the difference between M10 and M8 and the pros and cons?
Thanks.

Current consumption : M8 +/- 45 mA, M10 +/- 25 mA. Battery will last ca 25% longer (ESP needs 50 mA).
GNSS reception : older M8 (rom version) only support 2 GNSS (GPS and GLONAS), newer M8 and all M10 support 3 GNSS (GPS, GLONAS and Beidou)
Signal Quality : M10 is a littlebit better, has lower error values.
Price : For the Beitian models, price is more or less the same.
So, for a new build M10 is preferred (my personal opinion).
Greetings, Jan.

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rp6conrad said..
Current consumption : M8 +/- 45 mA, M10 +/- 25 mA. Battery will last ca 25% longer (ESP needs 50 mA).
GNSS reception : older M8 (rom version) only support 2 GNSS (GPS and GLONAS), newer M8 and all M10 support 3 GNSS (GPS, GLONAS and Beidou)
Signal Quality : M10 is a littlebit better, has lower error values.
Price : For the Beitian models, price is more or less the same.
So, for a new build M10 is preferred (my personal opinion).
Greetings, Jan.

On top of that, with lower power, one can also reduce the battery capacity and remain the same operation time. I use the LiPo 102540 1300mAh now. We reduced the size of the 3D case such the battery and GPS would locate next to each other, still within the width of the E-paper-PCB: www.printables.com/model/320425-gps-case/files#preview
It's not final yet, optimizing the last bits and pieces. It needs pouring epoxy rather than screwing/taping/gluing, in the end making the assembly a bit more easy, cheaper and robust.

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Freezer said..


I just finished a banner to attract some attention to this great development. More users = more ideas = more power! Feel free to use elsewhere as well. I'm not sure if the GIF will move and scroll through the tekst as intended inside this post.
The picture was taken from video that I shot last Saturday where I took the small 3D case with M10 and 1300mAh for a spin. Not yet poored, so in a pouch.

Good job. In my opinion it needs a more catchy name as well. ESP GPS Logger is a bit too technical and does not relate to windsurfing.

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GaragePlant said..

Freezer said..


I just finished a banner to attract some attention to this great development. More users = more ideas = more power! Feel free to use elsewhere as well. I'm not sure if the GIF will move and scroll through the tekst as intended inside this post.
The picture was taken from video that I shot last Saturday where I took the small 3D case with M10 and 1300mAh for a spin. Not yet poored, so in a pouch.

Good job. In my opinion it needs a more catchy name as well. ESP GPS Logger is a bit too technical and does not relate to windsurfing.

The name ESP-GPS is about the core/platform (ESP32-epaper module + ublox GNSS receiver + memory + LiPo). Putting them in a basic 3,- casing from AliExpress makes it a different device than the ones that Flex made for the boom, helmet, arm or with our own developed 3D case. It's like having an Android phones from different brands, it's basically the same but some of the details make the difference.

At www.gps-speedsurfing.com/default.aspx?mnu=item&item=gpsother you can find that the ESP-GPS is an approved device (they don't care about the packaging or form factor). I would stick with the name.

But it is always interesting to "brand" a specific implementation, with names logo's etc. I had some interesting discussions with Bart and Andres on the name of the case we developed. We can think of a lot of different names for the various cases. Suggestions are always welcome.

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Alhop said.
Hot off the press. Fingers crossed it works ok.

So how is this beautiful creation holding up under use?
Is the flexible epoxy sufficient to protect the E paper?
Does it stay looking shiny and lovely?
Presumably the back of the box is not covered by the pouring epoxy and you are relying on the waterproofing of the pouring epoxy inside the case?
How does this model attach to the boom?

Something to try for frozen DIY GPS units:
I had a frozen screen episode again today. Would switch off but wouldn't go to the sleep screen, and would switch on but not fire up properly.
knowing that the config file could reboot the GPS, and remembering the unit's IP address was 10.0.0.10 (although it could not display that) I accessed the files on the GPS, selected config and "submit" ( config was set to reboot - yes) and the unit rebooted and started functioning normally again.