urggghhh worst thing about swellnet being your homepage is i get to work and find out that its awesome conditions..

hurry up 3pm!

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subasurf said...

All those economic books on my shelf finally paid off hahaha.
Secret Harbour at 7.30 am yesterday in boardies was a heavy initial capital investment...but it paid dividends for sure

Good investments pay off in the long run

Really starring to wish I'd used this morning more wisely

Long time lurker, first time poster. Got in the early surf this morning, it was a bit lumpy but got some great waves. Only 2 other guys out in a usually pretty popular metro break, stoked. I'm loving that cott main has been quite surfable this winter, definitely detracting a few blokes from my wave of choice.

Dang, you're lucky birdman - there were a fair few on trigg seconds from the word go this morning... but i joined them anyway. seemed really all over the place - peaks everywhere. did you see the rip cott had going through it when the xl swells came through the few weeks ago? if that hadnt been able to drag all the sand up the tip of the groin, only heavy machinery would have bee able to do it. but yeah, cott has some good sand formation going on atm.

A few places have some interesting sand. But crowds. I had a watch of "tearooms" on Monday arvo. Damn crowded for a Monday. Saw a couple of regulars taking the sets as usual. But everyone sitting next to each other instead of spread out. As the birdman says, still a few empty waves for those who think outside the box.

Not much on the horizon for me as I ramp up to a trip away. Lots of jobs to do, make a wheel carrier, make a windbreak, rebuild a motorbike, wire up some spotties, wire up auxiliary power. I'll be busy most afternoons.

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Legion said...

A few places have some interesting sand. But crowds. I had a watch of "tearooms" on Monday arvo. Damn crowded for a Monday. Saw a couple of regulars taking the sets as usual. But everyone sitting next to each other instead of spread out. As the birdman says, still a few empty waves for those who think outside the box.

Haha going to have to think way outside the box to find an uncrowded wave thursday...

The sand has been very interesting this winter, my local has some great waves rolling through, but theres one shallow bank that keeps tricking me. I pulled into a beauty, down the face, flying back up to the top lining up the next section, and then suddenly the wave rolled over this shallowed bit and just jacked straight up and through me head first down the face. Copped a hammering. Loving this winter though.

Choppy at the crowded man's local break. Only a few guys out today arvo although didn't see many catching anything good. Some waves had shape although they were just breaking everywhere really.

Shouldn't of listened to my conscience cos it was not worth paddling out. Atleast I got a good workout

Just a Q, how do you guys paddle out in choppy surf with waves continually breaking and whitewater rushing through? Is it a matter of practicing your duck diving and finding a rip to swim out through?

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newguy said...

Choppy at the crowded man's local break. Only a few guys out today arvo although didn't see many catching anything good. Some waves had shape although they were just breaking everywhere really.

Shouldn't of listened to my conscience cos it was not worth paddling out. Atleast I got a good workout

Just a Q, how do you guys paddle out in choppy surf with waves continually breaking and whitewater rushing through? Is it a matter of practicing your duck diving and finding a rip to swim out through?

I reckon it's all about reading the surf to find the best 'path' through, timing, fitness (to paddle harder in a clear patch) and a bit of luck... in that order

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GPA said...

newguy said...

Choppy at the crowded man's local break. Only a few guys out today arvo although didn't see many catching anything good. Some waves had shape although they were just breaking everywhere really.

Shouldn't of listened to my conscience cos it was not worth paddling out. Atleast I got a good workout

Just a Q, how do you guys paddle out in choppy surf with waves continually breaking and whitewater rushing through? Is it a matter of practicing your duck diving and finding a rip to swim out through?

I reckon it's all about reading the surf to find the best 'path' through, timing, fitness (to paddle harder in a clear patch) and a bit of luck... in that order

Agree with GPA on that one, time your way out and dont paddle out when you can see a set coming. I often sit and wait for a break in the sets and paddle like a mad man so I dont get caught on the inside, I hate getting drilled on the way out!

I rely on timing and fitness. Rips are great when you find them. At Cott I just jump off the end of the rocks if it's really heavy. Skip the paddle out and avoid the seaweed tangles.

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subasurf said...

At Cott I just jump off the end of the rocks if it's really heavy.

I would love to see this. I've never, ever seen anyone jump off the rocks with a board, only swimmers in summer. Those rocks are slick with pretty big gaps. I will keep an eye out for bodies wearing boardshorts in midwinter down in the gaps with the small-cat-sized rats that live down there. No locals do this. There's a trivial way out at Cott as there is at almost all point breaks, in fact I rarely paddle much at all there.

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Legion said...

subasurf said...

At Cott I just jump off the end of the rocks if it's really heavy.

I would love to see this. I've never, ever seen anyone jump off the rocks with a board, only swimmers in summer. Those rocks are slick with pretty big gaps. I will keep an eye out for bodies wearing boardshorts in midwinter down in the gaps with the small-cat-sized rats that live down there. No locals do this. There's a trivial way out at Cott as there is at almost all point breaks, in fact I rarely paddle much at all there.

I just paddle out next to the rocks and time the sets when Im surfing there. A rip seems to form next the rocks when there is a bit of swell, a great wave when its on

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newguy said...

Choppy at the crowded man's local break. Only a few guys out today arvo although didn't see many catching anything good. Some waves had shape although they were just breaking everywhere really.

Shouldn't of listened to my conscience cos it was not worth paddling out. Atleast I got a good workout

Just a Q, how do you guys paddle out in choppy surf with waves continually breaking and whitewater rushing through? Is it a matter of practicing your duck diving and finding a rip to swim out through?

I agree with Doggie.
Just watch and wait for a gap or lull and then paddle like a mofo. However this doesn't guarantee that you wont get caught my a freak set - this happens a lot to me down south as I am a slow, but steady, paddler.
Sometimes I am defeated on big days and crawl to the beach in shame whilst Mother Nature laughs. these days are great because we shouldn't always get what we want.

I agree too, same at some point breaks, jump off and paddle out close to the reef (rocks) as far as possible then head across..saves getting swept down the point as far when you paddle straight out. Close to the reef the water is getting sucked back out (in the lull) out further the waters still pushing down the point from the last set. Hope that makes sense?

Edit; this doesn't apply if your jumping off at the bottom end of the wave tho.

Love the rips when I score them. Surfed a point break last year where I didnt even have to paddle much to get out, just jump in, keep your line and away you go! Just dont get too complacent once out there or you can still get bowled over.

After I had a surf I sat on the point and watched the rip in action. Was comical how strong it was, just pulling people out who were lying on there boards, almost automated

Luck definately helps, have been on both ends of the stick with that one, snuck out and seen a mate behind me cop it and have watched a mate just in front of me get over a set and I then cop the next 3 waves on the head!

Only thing funnier to watch than someone rock jumping cott in winter would be watching someone trying to climb up to get out

How good are the next five days looking!

The weekend warriors will be happy at last. I'll be hitting one of my other spots Friday and Monday ( tomorrow will be a little big for my out of the way spots ), maybe Saturday or Sunday too.

Snuck in a few hours at "tearooms". Word on the street was I missed the best time, lunch time.

Funniest moment was sitting in a gutter, occasional waves big enough to break out in the gutter, mostly not. I paddled for one, water draining off the neighbouring bank so it was a stationary paddle against the rip. I couldn't get on it, and went to give up on top of the lip. As the wave broke the water direction reversed and the surge onto the shallow bank sucked me over the falls, dumping me on my arse on the sand below. Given the arena-like nature of "tearooms", I'm sure everyone had a good laugh. Made me think about slinking in. A few locals taking the lion's share (well, all) the sets as usual.

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subasurf said...

At Cott I just jump off the end of the rocks if it's really heavy.

I'm calling BS. I had a good look today. It's theoretically possible, but such a dumb, dumb idea. The rocks are big, huge gaps, slick and there's no vertical drop so you can't launch from the top, you'd have to clamber down low where it gets slipperier and weedy and sharp shells. There are much, much easier ways to get out, I only paddled once (I'm lazy). But by all means, give it a shot next time you're there, it'd distract from my dump-on-arse styling.

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Legion said...

I'm calling BS. I had a good look today. It's theoretically possible, but such a dumb, dumb idea. The rocks are big, huge gaps, slick and there's no vertical drop so you can't launch from the top, you'd have to clamber down low where it gets slipperier and weedy and sharp shells. There are much, much easier ways to get out, I only paddled once (I'm lazy). But by all means, give it a shot next time you're there, it'd distract from my dump-on-arse styling.

Christ, it's not that bloody hard. You only have to go down a few rocks and jump. It's not like it's my default choice but when there is 5hit loads of seaweed washed in (last week) then it's just so much easier. I know those rocks like the back of my hand because I go for lobsters (and lead sinkers) off those rocks all the time. It's absolutely piss easy to climb down about 4 meters or so from the end and there's a massive gab you can jump into with no chance of hitting anything in the water. Plus, I know exactly what I'm jumping into because I've spent as much time under the water there as ontop of it. FFS, you see old farts 'climbing' around on the rocks all the time in crap weather chasing snapper. If you're even remotely sure footed then there's no problem.

I mean really, why would I lie about it? It's not like anyone is going to be impressed because I'm too lazy to paddle through sea weed. There's nothing I despise more than paddling with a monstrous ****ing weed anchor dragging on my leash.

Bugger it...I'll gopro it next time

I'll take your word for it. Makes zero sense to me and I've never seen anyone do it (except summer swimmers). It's so trivial getting out that I don't understand the reason for taking the highest risk method. But then again, I don't understand boardies in winter.

I like wearing boardies in winter... When I'm in my mate's spa that's 30 odd degrees, with a beer in hand... After a nice long surf in my 3/2 steamer.

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Legion said...

I'll take your word for it. Makes zero sense to me and I've never seen anyone do it (except summer swimmers). It's so trivial getting out that I don't understand the reason for taking the highest risk method. But then again, I don't understand boardies in winter.

Like I said, I only do it when there is 5hit loads of weed washed in; which happens to usually coincide with the big swell. Otherwise I'll take the left hand rip out. The other benefit (although I'm clutching at straws here) is I get once last look at Coves before committing.

As for boardies in winter. I thought I'd explained the reasoning behind that...
I'll be out in boardies early tomorrow morning again. I can't allow the girl that comes with me to freeze so she uses mine even though it's not a perfect fit. Her new wettie is on it's way though...just in time for summer. hahaha.

Besides...I still don't think the water is so cold here that a steamer is totally necessary. It's nice, yes, but I still love being in the water in just boardies. Wetties are condoms in my eyes...a pain in the arse (ignore the pun), uncomfortable but often necessary.

2nd and 3rds at Trigg were pretty good this morning. Some good banks but a little random in places. Well over head on the sets and if you were in the right spot some really goods waves to be had. 3m swell and a light offshore!

^^^
Lucky Bugger - it certainly looked good on the cams!!

If you didn't get out this morning then I pity you.

Super clean and some great sets rolling in at Cott; although the sand was a little uneven which made judging the waves a bit tricky and the water washing back out made for some hilarious wipeouts.

I was at 3rds and further. Wet wetsuit was fun at dawn. When I paddled out there were a few decent waves but the sun scared them away as it usually does. So I was left sitting out the back like a seagull with no waves. Still nice, but it felt like it dropped heaps (graphs say otherwise). Bit deep, bit crowded. I sort of had a bank without much hassle but then a sweep developed and about 15 people drifted down. So I eventually paddled to where they'd come from, which was now empty.

Couple of Germanic (?) guys provided entertainment. Chatting to each other in English with all the lingo but a thick accent.

"Baaarckside is tha gohhh, much fahster"

I notice the signs for Sunday's run. Can't get north of CB, oh well, still a few options if it pans out.

Might skip tomorrow, got things to do and I reckon a bit small locally.

It used to be 1m on the graphs meant T-S stretch was out of control. Not any more.

I think they have recalibrated the bouys, 1.0m @ Cott used to be huge!!

Granted, I don't think a dropping tide is good for Cott at all.

I had all intentions to go the early this morning but my 2 year old was up at 5 am with a cold so those plans went out the window. I am hoping to get out for the arvo. wind will probably swing onshore but I dont care. just want to get out.

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Legion said...
It used to be 1m on the graphs meant T-S stretch was out of control. Not any more.

Agreed! - in fact 0.7m at Cott was my measure to look elsewhere... (T-S being my 'go to' break) and also to give Lano BB a miss - and as a result I have been caught thinking alternative breaks would be working when in fact they have been barely waist high!!

I've also trekked to Lano BB thinking 0.4 might be worth a play (as it used to be) - but it hasn't even been breaking