The paddle out took forever, got pummeled on the way out by what felt like an endless surge of wash (never seamed to be a lull) and then waited for ages for a wave I could actually paddle into...hahaha.
Finally got one and it was fairly sizable, only managed a few turns before it assploaded me all over a rock (cracked the rail on the board)...then tried again to get back out...too tiring...got smashed, leash came undone, board washed in and I had a nice little swim to get back in. Beach patrol guy was slightly concerned hahaha!
Good times

In all fairness, I surfed for about 6 hours yesterday and every day for the last week and I think my arms have had it. No rest to be had though...Secrets is looking tempting for an early one tomorrow.