Place I surfed yesterday was basically a mess... lots of swell action, but cross-shore and hard to pick a peak. Plenty out trying early, but as the wind picked up the crew went in...

Drove along the coast on the way home and no where was working particularly well... shame, as it's a good swell - but the low tide and poor banks made for a lot of big straight waves.

Ten foot today,

Just got back from my first trip (with board) down south! Yesterday was hell onshore but found a nice secluded sheltered break withonly one other guy out, he left 10 minutes after I paddled out. Got a couple of great waves then freaked myself out with some shadows and paddled in. haha

Today was sooo nice and the swell was huge!! Drove around to a bunch of different breaks and just watched, was way too big for me everywhere! But there were some awesome surfers out so got some great snaps!

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Sham1984 said...

Just got back from my first trip (with board) down south! Yesterday was hell onshore but found a nice secluded sheltered break withonly one other guy out, he left 10 minutes after I paddled out. Got a couple of great waves then freaked myself out with some shadows and paddled in. haha

Today was sooo nice and the swell was huge!! Drove around to a bunch of different breaks and just watched, was way too big for me everywhere! But there were some awesome surfers out so got some great snaps!

You know the rules/saying... "pics, or it didn't happen..."

I hope you all got some! Im soooo spewing!! Have been looking at photos from the South West and it looks mental!!!!
I nearly cried, cause im stuck on a rig

yep, everywhere was working down here, couple of the outer reefs even looked OK. Crowds spreadout so one of the more enjoyable Sunday's for as long as I can remember, back to work tomoz after two weeks off

Hectic day of surf. So many good rides...so many wipeouts.
Absolutely wrecked.

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subasurf said...

Hectic day of surf. So many good rides...so many wipeouts.
Absolutely wrecked.

hinters as to location? thought today would be too big for the normal beaches, so i went looking elsewhere to find something that can handle immense water movement. turned out to be a pretty bad choice.

Just out at Leighton today.

I'm sorry - drove to leighton to sacrifice straighthander size for some shape - leighton was absolutely poo

Wedge was about as much fun as a wet fart too. 25+kt NE was just too much.

Trigg was straight, sloppy and weedy this morning.

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jjd said...

I'm sorry - drove to leighton to sacrifice straighthander size for some shape - leighton was absolutely poo

It was for most of the time. If you were patient and could handle the beatings then there was some quality rights to be had...if you were lucky.

Sorry mate, but unless you are 3 foot tall, it was "poo" as in "small"

Ha!
What time did you get there? There were plenty of sets that were over head height breaking near the footbridge.

Let me guess...you stopped and watch for 10 seconds before making your mind up. Suits me I guess.

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subasurf said...

Ha!
What time did you get there? There were plenty of sets that were over head height breaking near the footbridge.

Let me guess...you stopped and watch for 10 seconds before making your mind up. Suits me I guess.

I checked all over yesterday. Stopped at Anesty and it was huge and heavy. Haven't been there in nearly 15 years though and the brown sand and piped music in the dunes just about had me in tears.

Went to show and heard about Avalon so travelled back up north. Leighton was okay but looked a little messy. The outer break was going of nicely if you had a small boat to surf on. Guys i saw getting rides all the way to shore

All of Cott was just small boat territory , enough so maybe a small boat ramp should be put in

Got stuck in car park at Brighton so just wanted to head home. Ended up at my usual that was big and dumping but surprisingly fun. Had to help a few swimmers in and was dieing of sweat(only had steamer) so called it a day after psyching myself out at shadows too..

Had a junky surf Saturday arvo on a board that is too small for me but I did get some, was amazed at how I could ride a smaller board, am I onto something?

Looked Sunday but wasnt really interested, I think I need my mojo back

My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.

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smicko said...

My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.

Holy cow..What board are you running

Bleck! Early southerly with small swell... about 18 out at Trigg Seconds picking off some waist high crumblers... I came home for a coffee (that's how good it was).

Plenty of weed still around.

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GPA said...
Plenty of weed still around.

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thommo 000 said...

GPA said...
Plenty of weed still around.

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smicko said...

My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.

In clean waves it would have been great! It lacked a bit of rail volume so I had to be carefull on cutties but paddled well for such a small board

Before my back op I used to ride a 6,2 x 18 1/2 x 2 1/4 Gunther Rohan. Im 80kgs and this thing was so easy to surf and it was waifer thin. After my op I needed a bigger board as I had been out of the water for 8 months and was unfit and fat

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jbshack said...

smicko said...

My latest is 5'4" Doggie and I'm lovin it. My boards have come down a foot in the last year or so. I'm 6ft and 110kilo too, so no lightwieght.

Holy cow..What board are you running

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Surfing/Shortboards/New-Blade/

Trigg was small this morning and surprisingly busy, waste high with about 30 out between 2nd and 3rd's but the water is warming up.

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Zuke said...

Trigg was small this morning and surprisingly busy, waste high with about 30 out between 2nd and 3rd's but the water is warming up.

everyone was on that peak throwing off little rights.. i was a little further down on the bank putting out some nice little lefts.. only 2 others were on that peak

still way too many people out for how small it was.. damn you nice weather!!

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Sham1984 said...

Zuke said...

Trigg was small this morning and surprisingly busy, waste high with about 30 out between 2nd and 3rd's but the water is warming up.

everyone was on that peak throwing off little rights.. i was a little further down on the bank putting out some nice little lefts.. only 2 others were on that peak

still way too many people out for how small it was.. damn you nice weather!!

Well, I was there at 8:20 and there were some shoulder high set waves... but by 9:45am it was all but gone - went back and got my mal and had a 'play' in VERY inconsistent knee to waist high peelers off that right... swell dropped massively. Even the guys with fat fishes were struggling - even a goat-boater was complaining how small it had become... Not sure there will be anything left by tomorrow...

Secrets was a bit of a let down this morning.
Great if you were on a bigger board...still plenty to catch on the shorty but the rides weren't terribly long or exciting

Took the smart option and left the shortboards at home today. Got a fun SUP in mid morning and headed back out in the arvo with a sail.
Just Leech and I.
Yeow

Why aren't you in g'loo?