Nice one Andy! What a great idea. And what a prime video to kick off with, I think we've all drooled over that clip more than a few times. (Here's where I admit to having watched it in slow motion and on repeat and then advancing frame by frame through the critical moments....)
A group of people enthusiastically discussing midlengths ! Who would ever have thought. Let me explain by giving a brief history of me and the boards I choose to ride...
I first learnt as a grom on a 5'8 triple flyer Hot Buttered single. I had no idea, that's just what I got cheap and it seemed to do the job. From there a 7 foot something pintail single came along and was my only board for a few years, it was big and thick and I loved it.
My next board was a thruster. The thruster was still a pretty new thing, this one was a present from my parents, custom made, new no less! I remember the spray job but don't remember surfing it. It was the only thruster I ever owned. It certainly didn't last long because I started making my own boards right about then too. There were a couple of woeful first attempts (beautiful channels rendered flat with a
very resin rich layup!) ....
....And then shortly after, my first midlength single fin. This was the mid eighties. I don't remember where the inspiration came from, but I must have seen similar things somewhere. I then rode homemade midlength singles and nothing else until I started experimenting with little sidefins just a few years ago.
There were some dark dark days in the 80's and 90's that's for sure. Trying to get my share of waves in a busy lineup riding a 7'2 single fin, made of epoxy and painted with house paint no less! I had more that a few 'altercations'.
So from that to a few people paddling up to me over the last couple of years, showing me their board and saying that they were inspired to try a midlength by watching me surf, and now a thread of like minded people sharing ideas! It's a fine time to be surfing. despite the ever increasing crowds.
Here's a photo of one of the boards I rode through that dark era, it's 7'2 x not very wide. Made in the early 90's or so. There just wasn't the wealth of comparative material that there is today so I was just trying things out. I remember it had quite a lot of rocker and was great in big surf. Kind of obvious looking at it now but not so much when I made it.