Had an adrenalin packed weekend surfing and sup surfing down south, for a metro warrior like me the weekends swell but pretty bloody big! Had an amazing and exhausting time, really lucky to have easy access to that part of the world.
Really gets the heart rate up when the sets stand up and march towards you down there, even more so when occasionally you get called to have a crack from the crew who are not in position (this is rare but happens)
I got an amazing perspective on the SUP and managed to stay out the way and get some ridiculously long waves on the SUP - bit of chop on the open face which made it really hard but all worth it. Getting through some fat sections and having it wall up and race away down the reef was the highlight on a few.
There were a few I pulled back on that on reflection I should have gone for but at the time survival instinct told me to let it go! Also with a crew on the inside letting a lot go through was the right thing to do, not that it gets you any kudos or reprieve from the stink eye but its all good
Supported local cafe and bars in the area, checked out a couple of epic surf shops - absolute board porn!
supthecreek said..
