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Donk107 said..
Hi HG

Now you have reversed the housing do the mounting holes still line up and are you going to put something over it to water proof it

Regards Don

Its a exact fit donk in reverse as far as the weath proofing goes thinking of some sumbrella or Ill make a acrylic panel to fit Ill frame the out side with some teak I have here

Hi HG

What else is going to live in there (tachometer, ignition switch, lights, buzzer etc)

Regards Don

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Donk107 said..
Hi HG

What else is going to live in there (tachometer, ignition switch, lights, buzzer etc)

Regards Don

The other section is auto pilot plug ,start button, Ignition switch, stop button.
Ill also fit a water proof on off toggle switch between the gauges for gauge lights right in the center

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Donk107 said..
Hi HG

Now you have reversed the housing do the mounting holes still line up and are you going to put something over it to water proof it

Regards Don

The above will all be inside the hull with the gauge panel slightly over the out side edge of the hull at the bottom

I would take a lot of care with the waterproofing in case you take a wave over the stern and all the water sloshes to the back before it has a chance to drain away

To be honest that position looks a bit exposed to me although a lot of the modern boats mount their engine control panels low down in the rear of the cockpit so perhaps I am being a bit of a worrier

Regards Don

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Donk107 said..
I would take a lot of care with the waterproofing in case you take a wave over the stern and all the water sloshes to the back before it has a chance to drain away

Regards Don

I will Mine has a larger drain hole where the rubber and tiller come through but I will just the same the VDO gauges are a plastic housing with O rings .
I can get to the back easily through the screw lid above the tiller also can get me hand around through the cockpit locker
Also remember the original engine panel was there also more exposes than what Ill make , all it had was a stainless steel flip down louver all open at the bottom

For about three hours I scraped and gouged and wire brushed the front and sides of my engine in preparation for rust conversion, priming and top coating.

Tomorrow I will do the back of it.

Not only will this engine run like new. It will also look like new.

The colour scheme is hammer tone gunmetal grey with fire truck red trim.

Not really a color match but its seaworthy


Heres a rough idea of what happening at the engine panel Ive a on off switch coming in the post the same as the center one for the right hand side (gauge lights)Should have fitted it in the middle of the gauges looking back might still do.
I think Ill try and get some of that paneling so it e switches can have there names print on the panel.
Theres a link in here some where some one gave me for that material

SOME THING TO THINK ABOUT

Dropped into the boat last night to measure a couple of things and was looking at replacing all my hoses on board.
When looking at the sea strainer hose size , then the sea cock I notice two different ID's. I then had a look at the original hose that over the wekend had thrown on thew floor after removing it and then notices it had a join which was directly under the motor when fitted it had two hose clamps for the join as I rolled it around , I went F##k one hose clamp had rusted completely through looked new on all sides of the clamp but one . My journey from the swing mooring to the Marinna a 7 hour motor that bloody hose could have come apart hiden under the motor inside the engine compartment how much sea water would have entered the bilge and also would I have noticed that of the motor running with out any sea water cooling it.
You cant not see the hose once it goes under the engine and what you can see looks in excellent condition.
This could have been a sunken boat I kid you not.
Lots of people have said to me take her sailing over the last few months but I have always been on the safe side as to make sure every thing is working and the least possible problems. I have been far to casual . I could have had my 5 minutes fame on T.V.
Floating in Port Philip Bay with out a boat .

I write this so on one else gets to casual when first buying your yacht
NEVER FIT A HOSE CLAMP OTHER THAN STAINLESS STEEL.
Who ever fitted this hose clamp did not think, as it was not S/S HOSE CLAMP
Ill take a photo tonight and post it

Hi HG

Lucky that you got away with that one

I have been using this type of clamp that I am sure you will be familiar with

They are a bit more expensive than a worm drive and you need to know the exact od of the hose to get the correct size clamp but I think they are a better design than a worm drive

Regards Don

Boats in survey have to have two hose clips on all fittings. SS steel clips will fail too from crevice corrosion so it pays to ensure they are in a position that they can be viewed regularly. Use rubber hoses in the engine room and get rid of any reinforced plastic hose that hardens and wont compress under clips. Rubber will hold well even after the two clips fail.

I realized today that I have some fiberglass hanging around so I made a panel to fit in the original housing so Il fit the gauges and switches in this and epoxy the panel inside the housing






Never been a fan of this style of hose. I intend to remove the forward seacocks completely that were used for the head. and would like to use the engine seacock for every thing if I can by adding a Y or T and add an extra ball valve for the head and also the sea water wash down pump and add one more new through hull for the head outlet
This hose originally went under the engine sump and across to the other side of the engine bay you can not see it at all except for the ends. I will refit a the sea water strainer on the same side as the sea cock(opposite from what it was )and run the hose around the front of the engine below the fly wheel there is a hull stay that goes across from one side to the other I can zip tie the new hose to that so when ever you remove the engine cove its at your feet in full view . this one connects to the engine water pump

fitted my engine panel switches, gauges and auto pilot plug. Still have to fix the panel to the housing and paint two pack

If you can spray it in light grey 2 Pac rather than white, the grey hides the dirt and takes the glare of the panel.

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southace said..
If you can spray it in light grey 2 Pac rather than white, the grey hides the dirt and takes the glare of the panel.

Cheers south ace .
The problem I have is the over spray I can get is White ,Black or Cat yellow but I think ill try some thing . Even the throttle panel looks a bit off in white but IU still have to clean and polish the cockpit once Ive done all the timber varnish

Hi HG

Are you going to have a tachometer anywhere

Regards Don

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Donk107 said..
Hi HG

Are you going to have a tachometer anywhere

Regards Don

Being a mechanic I feel the engine even its sweet spot ( best working RPM) So I dont really need it Donk. so No I wont be fitting one. I may later on a tiny tach for my kids But for now No

Oh a taco is a must for me! And a hour gauge! When it's blowing 50 knots and ** hits the fan you can't hear your donk but at least you can still see its running! Haha

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southace said..
Oh a taco is a must for me! And a hour gauge! When it's blowing 50 knots and ** hits the fan you can't hear your donk but at least you can still see its running! Haha

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HG02 said..

Donk107 said..
Hi HG

Are you going to have a tachometer anywhere

Regards Don

Being a mechanic I feel the engine even its sweet spot ( best working RPM) So I dont really need it Donk. so No I wont be fitting one. I may later on a tiny tach for my kids But for now No

Donk If I did fit one it would be fitted to the throttle/ gear sift panel as thats where the RPM adjustment are.
I have been contemplating a two color deck changing the non skid color if I do this Ill also change the color of the throttle panel and also the engine gauge panel match them up

cut my mizzen bulk head sound proofing as well as the starboard side bunk side and the cockpit roof . I still have to make the new port side panel then cut the sound proofing to suit

Trial fitted the vetus throttle



I've always liked the old w.b. statesman chamois
With the bone vinyl roof I'm thinking of painting my non skid and throttle panel the bone colour along with my engine panel

Trial fitted be engine panel will be ok once I've finished it

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HG02 said..
Trial fitted be engine panel will be ok once I've finished it

Donk and South Ace
Ive conceded ordered a 80 mm tacho tonight will fit in the inspection port beside the engine panel Ill trim it with some teak.
just send me money south ace
I sanded and cleaned the stern wood work late this after noon. Once its ready and varnished Ill clean ,detail and cut and polish the cockpit area.
Hope south ace sends some more sun shine down here

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HG02 said...

HG02 said..
Trial fitted be engine panel will be ok once I've finished it

Donk and South Ace
Ive conceded ordered a 80 mm tacho tonight will fit in the inspection port beside the engine panel Ill trim it with some teak.
just send me money south ace
I sanded and cleaned the stern wood work late this after noon. Once its ready and varnished Ill clean ,detail and cut and polish the cockpit area.
Hope south ace sends some more sun shine down here

Hi HG

Good to see we have spent more of your money

Does it have a hour meter in it as well

Are you going to have a warning buzzer for overheat, low oil pressure and low charge as well as the gauges

Regards Don

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Donk107 said..

HG02 said...

HG02 said..
Trial fitted be engine panel will be ok once I've finished it

Donk and South Ace
Ive conceded ordered a 80 mm tacho tonight will fit in the inspection port beside the engine panel Ill trim it with some teak.
just send me money south ace
I sanded and cleaned the stern wood work late this after noon. Once its ready and varnished Ill clean ,detail and cut and polish the cockpit area.
Hope south ace sends some more sun shine down here

Hi HG

Good to see we have spent more of your money

Does it have a hour meter in it as well

Are you going to have a warning buzzer for overheat, low oil pressure and low charge as well as the gauges

Regards Don

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HG02 said..
Trial fitted the vetus throttle



I've always liked the old w.b. statesman chamois
With the bone vinyl roof I'm thinking of painting my non skid and throttle panel the bone colour along with my engine panel

Hi HG

That engine control looks nice

Regards Don

Yes that looks very sweet! I fitted the plastic morse controller two both of my previous yachts......pain in the butt to install but worth it! Mates yacht stalls in the idel position and has gear and throttle both separate even more of a pain!

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Donk107 said..

HG02 said...

HG02 said..
Trial fitted be engine panel will be ok once I've finished it

Donk and South Ace
Ive conceded ordered a 80 mm tacho tonight will fit in the inspection port beside the engine panel Ill trim it with some teak.
just send me money south ace
I sanded and cleaned the stern wood work late this after noon. Once its ready and varnished Ill clean ,detail and cut and polish the cockpit area.
Hope south ace sends some more sun shine down here

Hi HG

Good to see we have spent more of your money

Does it have a hour meter in it as well

Are you going to have a warning buzzer for overheat, low oil pressure and low charge as well as the gauges

Regards Don

Yes Donk I order buzzers for oil and temp when I ordered my tacho I was tempted to use a reverse beeper off a Cat 777 dump truck would have been awesome
any miners out there if it went off would have freaked

Trial fitting my sound proofing



Any one ever use duct tape for the edges and corners?

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HG02 said..
Trial fitting my sound proofing



Any one ever use duct tape for the edges and corners?

you can get aluminum foil tape that is reinforced that is very sticky and strong. I use it in the aircon. industry when we sound proof and insulate ductwork.

Just google it.