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MorningBird said...
Just guessing, it would be for a self tacking headsail.

every one knows that Donk its a decorative piece That's where you strap the mermaids down

Some Walker H28 were cutter ketches which had an extra .5 of a meter bow sprit I do not think mine is such.
I have at least 4 jibs of various sizes

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MorningBird said...
Just guessing, it would be for a self tacking headsail.

Hi Morningbird

What are the advantages or disadvantages of this set up over a normal headsail

Regards Don

The advantage of a self tacking head sail is that it is self tacking.

Seriously, if you have an inner head sail which is self tacking it saves a lot of grief in heavy weather.

You just steer the boat through the tacks, no sheeting needed, and trim with the traveller lines led aft.

If you are sailing with inner head sail and full reefed main or storm try sail in heavy weather, it mostly just steering and traveller adjustment.

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cisco said...
The advantage of a self tacking head sail is that it is self tacking.

Seriously, if you have an inner head sail which is self tacking it saves a lot of grief in heavy weather.

You just steer the boat through the tacks, no sheeting needed, and trim with the traveller lines led aft.

If you are sailing with inner head sail and full reefed main or storm try sail in heavy weather, it mostly just steering and traveller adjustment.

Hi Cisco

Thanks for the information , what are the disadvantages

Regards Don

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Donk107 said...

cisco said...
The advantage of a self tacking head sail is that it is self tacking.

Seriously, if you have an inner head sail which is self tacking it saves a lot of grief in heavy weather.

You just steer the boat through the tacks, no sheeting needed, and trim with the traveller lines led aft.

If you are sailing with inner head sail and full reefed main or storm try sail in heavy weather, it mostly just steering and traveller adjustment.

Hi Cisco

Thanks for the information , what are the disadvantages

Regards Don

About the only photo have of what your talking about it this one Donk


some walkers have a stay where that block is to be honest I have not even throughly gone through any head sail yet
From the beginning I decided Id fit a furling system and keep on board storm head sail
When I drop the main mast found the wire halyards have been flogging making the spreaders thin so Ill replace those and also remove any wire halyards I had replace them with spectra . The stay from the top of the main mast to the mizzen I also replace with spectra and run it down to the bottom of the mizzen and cleat it off . Add a block to the top of the mizzen . This will make it easier to remove the mizzen if I want to. I am thinking of using Ronstan turn buckles on my rigging
I dont want to rush this part of the boat
I

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Donk107 said...
Thanks for the information , what are the disadvantages

Apart from a bit of extra gear on the fore deck I can't think of any.

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HG02 said...

That is humungous sized chain for an H28. Looks like 3/8 th.

Re your rigging work to come, it would be worth looking up what the original specs are for your yacht.

I do not like your idea of a running stay between your main and mizzen mast heads.

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cisco said...

HG02 said...

That is humungous sized chain for an H28. Looks like 3/8 th.

Re your rigging work to come, it would be worth looking up what the original specs are for your yacht.

I do not like your idea of a running stay between your main and mizzen mast heads.

Thats the mooring chain Cisco (port side is)
While your looking this photo recomend me a varnish for my bow spirt Ive slooshed some sikkens HLSe on it while it was on the swing mooring ,but will now like to do it properly now I have off street parking.
So Id like some recomendations on all the deck wood work . All it has had so far is a sand and two coats of Sikkens HLSe light oak. I have been thinking of Cabots
www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-2l-gloss-exterior-clear-timber-finish_p1522588

Beautiful day on the Port hacking yesterday. Went down to make a template of the cabin door slides and went for a sail as well.

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HG02 said...

cisco said...

HG02 said...

That is humungous sized chain for an H28. Looks like 3/8 th.

Re your rigging work to come, it would be worth looking up what the original specs are for your yacht.

I do not like your idea of a running stay between your main and mizzen mast heads.

Thats the mooring chain Cisco (port side is)
While your looking this photo recomend me a varnish for my bow spirt Ive slooshed some sikkens HLSe on it while it was on the swing mooring ,but will now like to do it properly now I have off street parking.
So Id like some recomendations on all the deck wood work . All it has had so far is a sand and two coats of Sikkens HLSe light oak. I have been thinking of Cabots
www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-2l-gloss-exterior-clear-timber-finish_p1522588

I was just on the phone to another Walker owner he uses a tyre as a springer on his mooring down there Ill check it out

What are the advantages or disadvantages of this set up over a normal headsail

If you are using the headsail track like a traveller to achieve different angles, then ideally, the track should be curved, otherwise you will have to adjust the sheet tension.

fitted out my port side electrical panel Ill wire it all up tonight
24 knots of breeze at Sorrento with gust to 28 coming from the north not a nice wave pattern Oh well Patterson Lakes was a millpond when I went down there before to pick up my bilge switch



I might paint the panels two pack white before there finished . Might be able to pick up my solar panel tomorrow if I can find a Ute wont fit on my car. I should be able to out power SirJmans system then

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FreeRadical said...
What are the advantages or disadvantages of this set up over a normal headsail

If you are using the headsail track like a traveller to achieve different angles, then ideally, the track should be curved, otherwise you will have to adjust the sheet tension.

I suppose you could not run a genoa with this set up either

regards a Don

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HG02 said...
fitted out my port side electrical panel Ill wire it all up tonight
24 knots of breeze at Sorrento with gust to 28 coming from the north not a nice wave pattern Oh well Patterson Lakes was a millpond when I went down there before to pick up my bilge switch



I might paint the panels two pack white before there finished . Might be able to pick up my solar panel tomorrow if I can find a Ute wont fit on my car. I should be able to out power SirJmans system then

Just don't paint the solar 'panels', it will effect their performance.

Where do you need to pick the solar panels up from?

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SirJman said...

HG02 said...
fitted out my port side electrical panel Ill wire it all up tonight
24 knots of breeze at Sorrento with gust to 28 coming from the north not a nice wave pattern Oh well Patterson Lakes was a millpond when I went down there before to pick up my bilge switch



I might paint the panels two pack white before there finished . Might be able to pick up my solar panel tomorrow if I can find a Ute wont fit on my car. I should be able to out power SirJmans system then

Just don't paint the solar 'panels', it will effect their performance.

Where do you need to pick the solar panels up from?

Bayswater Sir J

Just picked up the solar panel its bloody big . Ill post some picks later when I get her fix down on the cabin top. I will cut the two panel terminals off and pass it through inside the interior and then either solder and shrink wrap or crimp and shrink wrap to the controller Just have to check with my multi meter which is positive and negative from the panel
Was nice guy he gave me some mountings and clamps as I'm only going to do a temp fit from the solar panel to the cabin roof for now till I sort out painting the non skid on the roof. As its in the marina there no rough weather in there so it wont blow off with some zip ties holding it down on the cabin grab rails for the moment using the Aluminum solar panel mounting rails and clamps he gave me

Did a temp fit on top of the cabin roof as I want to paint the cabin top when it warms up also want to remove the hatch cover and fix some chips and spider cracks
By the time I connected every thing it was dark so Ill have to see what it can do in the morning






Also want to see if I can run the solar panel cable inside the hatch combing then down inside the cabin so the cable is not seen inside on the cabin roof

Hi all

The weather was a bit ordinary today with no wind so I stayed inside and did some stuff but we did have a nice rainbow across the bay

Regards Don

Hi Cisco
The stay Im talking about it the wire from the main mast to the mizzen at the top of the masts. Origainal like mine to drop the mizzen mast you have to climb up there and disconnect the stay. What a lot f Walker owners down here have down is change it to 5 mm spctra and run it do to the bottom of the mizzen so you dont have to climb the mast to remove either the main or mizzen mast just uncleat it and let it go . The mizzen will stay up with out it but I think is need so support when sailing



So they just run a 5 mm spectra line instead and continue it down to the from of the mizzen.
Please excuse all the seagull deterrents in this photo its an early one
Ill need every photo I have to refit these masts
The solar panel is very large if I find it to big Ill bring it home here and find some thing smaller . I will be making a low power PC so I can build and test at home and use that panel at home plus a battery and monitor power usage while swapping thing's around
Gigabyte GA-J1900N-D3V been looking at this one
www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=138_1019&products_id=27760&zenid=b0f4f383d0d2ac45712a0cde00a5d5e4.
Ill wait for a while yet though I have a 12 power supply here when I do it plus lots other parts laying around,

sunrise 8.00am


7.00am below


out side at 8.00am a prefect Mexican day

Trial fit of the cabin slides this morning. More trimming required.

Lookin good boatin








The bottom photo is the time it was a overcast day and rain
When I get a good sunny day I'm going to put a rug over part of the panel see what happens to amps and volts

Started to unpick the hatch cover so far have snapped one fishing knife and a Stanley blade Ill get some more blades tomorrow and see if I can remove it



I removed the gear throttle assembly and its ply wood mounting to be refurbished over the next weeks.
Ill sand blast the assembly housing and repaint it. the actual handle has a crack underneath where a grub screw holds it on to the assembly shaft. Not sure what I am going to do with the crack yet .
The ply wood mounting Id love to replace it with a piece of teak would never have to look at again after that was mounted there.
Ill see what I can scrounge up .
Did not what to remove the gear shift out on the mooring just in case I had to move the boat in a hurry.
While is off I am hoping to clean and cut and polish the cock pit sides and clean and scrub the floor
OPk you wind seeking sailors have a great week you to "South Ace" feed that croc some left overs and dont get to sun burnt up there OK.

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HG02 said...
Hi Cisco
The stay Im talking about it the wire from the main mast to the mizzen at the top of the masts. Origainal like mine to drop the mizzen mast you have to climb up there and disconnect the stay. What a lot f Walker owners down here have down is change it to 5 mm spctra and run it do to the bottom of the mizzen so you dont have to climb the mast to remove either the main or mizzen mast just uncleat it and let it go . The mizzen will stay up with out it but I think is need so support when sailing



So they just run a 5 mm spectra line instead and continue it down to the from of the mizzen.
Please excuse all the seagull deterrents in this photo its an early one
Ill need every photo I have to refit these masts

Strewth mate. Your mizzen has double lowers and your main has double backstays. Why would you connect them from their mast heads making sure that if the main mast goes it will take the mizzen with it??

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cisco said...

HG02 said...
Hi Cisco
The stay Im talking about it the wire from the main mast to the mizzen at the top of the masts. Origainal like mine to drop the mizzen mast you have to climb up there and disconnect the stay. What a lot f Walker owners down here have down is change it to 5 mm spctra and run it do to the bottom of the mizzen so you dont have to climb the mast to remove either the main or mizzen mast just uncleat it and let it go . The mizzen will stay up with out it but I think is need so support when sailing



So they just run a 5 mm spectra line instead and continue it down to the from of the mizzen.
Please excuse all the seagull deterrents in this photo its an early one
Ill need every photo I have to refit these masts

Strewth mate. Your mizzen has double lowers and your main has double backstays. Why would you connect them from their mast heads making sure that if the main mast goes it will take the mizzen with it??

Thats the standard rigging on the Walker Cisco
The stay helps prop up the Mizzen so I'm told Ill look into it
What I'm really happy about is a relo has a multi speed buffer .So the deck going to get a real slow polish when there some good weather soon

Hi HG

If you don't mind me asking what sort of structure in under the cockpit sole to support the mast

Regards Don

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Donk107 said...
Hi HG

If you don't mind me asking what sort of structure in under the cockpit sole to support the mast

Regards Don

There is a bulk head under the mizzen behind the engine transmission Donk



this bulk head is directly behine the engine trans . So how I have to get in there and clean it all up. At the moment if it get near the top of the list it some how seem to end up down the bottom of the page

Theres a reasonable amount of space behind this bulk head .



I keep thinking about how a stern head would be nice as I could make a nice step through space to gain excess to the stern engine space and beyond.
I have seen some walkers with a cut out in one of the stern bunks to gain better excess in there
If I did it Id place it on the port side as my manual bilge pump is in the port side bunk



As you can see here theres not much room to excess the engine bay



you can see the manual bilge pump on the right hand side in the bunk . If I did ever put a head at the stern it would be that side.

Hi HG

I am trying to get my head around the first photo of the bulkhead you posted

Does it run vertically from under the mizzen mast to the hull and box in the rear of the engine and transmission

Replacing the 1/4 berth with the head is a interesting idea especially if you can improve access to the engine, transmission and shaft at the same time

Regards Don

Oh good Don, you too? I'm still trying to work it out. When some people take photos they come in too close and you don't get any reference to your suroundings, be better to take two pics, one from further and then the close up if required.

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Donk107 said...
Hi HG

I am trying to get my head around the first photo of the bulkhead you posted

Does it run vertically from under the mizzen mast to the hull and box in the rear of the engine and transmission

Replacing the 1/4 berth with the head is a interesting idea especially if you can improve access to the engine, transmission and shaft at the same time

Regards Don

Yes Donk
It boxes in the engine trans compartment there is lots of room behind this as well wasted space not heavy storage but it is wasted space.
In the last photo Donk on the left down the back of the bunk you can see the Bulk head Im talking about thats the back of the engine bay
I took a bit of a chance last night bought a teak bed head cheap on Flea bay but I am a little worried its veneer Ill find out today.
Hope its solid not veneer I think it will be the seller will freak when I get my saw out to make it fit in the car
If its veneer Ill just pay him and tell hi to sell it for me again only $20 its not far from work

I do think its solid teak. a piece of the bed head will be my new mounting for my gear shift /throttle mount if its solid and the rest will be used on my settee cupboards( Teak window shutters)