Select to expand quote

pearl said..
Jaystore here's some feedback. I purchased a new V8 XW (lightweight) dynabar to replace a worn V7. I use them on my ride engine harness which is the oldest custom made one in Australia. 1 good thing about the harness, even though it is small 32" waist, I can run a 13" dynabar and get hip to hip movement on sliding rope. Much more than any ride engine spreader product.The V 7 is 4 seasons old and apart from surface rust, it's only the spreader pad that is a bit battered. Anyway the V 8 XW is still much heavier than V7 but an improvement on the V8. First use the plastic lug that protects the rope slid up the rope. this may be why some are breaking ropes at the plate. It seems they are looser than on my V7. The roller on the hook is sooo smooth, much better, but the bend (shape) of the hook itself is way too shallow. V 7 has much more of a U shape, and is less likely to have your chicken loop fall/twist out. I've fixed this with a hammer. As robust as that hook looks, it bent far easier than the V7 stainless hook. The spreader pad on the V 8 XW is way wider. Too wide for me. The V 8 spreader bar itself is not curved enough for my torso shape (too flat). I understand that it may be perfect for others. The v 7 is much more prone to bending, which is good to shape perfectly. So in summary I've gone back to using my V 7 which performs much better for me! just stripping a few parts off the V 8 XW.

Select to expand quote

Absolutbeginer said..

jaystore said..

Absolutbeginer said...
Ride engine looks good, plus what looks like wallet friendly pricing.
Why is the Jay product so expensive?

Why a Ferrari is so expensive? ;)

A RE fixed hook costs 61$ and sliding rope 61$ .
dynabar XT V8 costs 99$ but you get many options:
Fixed hook, slider dyneema, sliding hook, hook locker for pivoting hook,
hook locker for CL connection, dyneema release system, 1-2 belt hook buckle
ring for kite leash and cast in mould. You can add additional steel sliders.
Price 2009 99? price 2016 99?.

It should cost a lot more...

I'd consider a Jay setup, but I really don't see the point of buying a bunch of hardware I will never use.
Why not sell it as bits or a full package so people can just choose what they want if they like?

Select to expand quote

pearl said..
Jaystore here's some feedback. I purchased a new V8 XW (lightweight) dynabar to replace a worn V7. I use them on my ride engine harness which is the oldest custom made one in Australia. 1 good thing about the harness, even though it is small 32" waist, I can run a 13" dynabar and get hip to hip movement on sliding rope. Much more than any ride engine spreader product.The V 7 is 4 seasons old and apart from surface rust, it's only the spreader pad that is a bit battered. Anyway the V 8 XW is still much heavier than V7 but an improvement on the V8. First use the plastic lug that protects the rope slid up the rope. this may be why some are breaking ropes at the plate. It seems they are looser than on my V7. The roller on the hook is sooo smooth, much better, but the bend (shape) of the hook itself is way too shallow. V 7 has much more of a U shape, and is less likely to have your chicken loop fall/twist out. I've fixed this with a hammer. As robust as that hook looks, it bent far easier than the V7 stainless hook. The spreader pad on the V 8 XW is way wider. Too wide for me. The V 8 spreader bar itself is not curved enough for my torso shape (too flat). I understand that it may be perfect for others. The v 7 is much more prone to bending, which is good to shape perfectly. So in summary I've gone back to using my V 7 which performs much better for me! just stripping a few parts off the V 8 XW.

Thanks NSW for the review, but the DYNABAR story is long and every point you explained is known and already clarified.

The DYNABAR XW V7 frame+hook weight is 340+80=420gr DYNABAR XW V8 280+100=380gr, so DYNABAR XW V8 is lighter. Maybe you have a DYNABAR XW V7 with single rod frame, it is lighter but it bends if used by heavy kiter in strong winds.

The difference with RE bars is evident and DYNABAR has a lot more sliding run.



The DYNABAR V8 has less curve to avoid it to dig intop ribs and hip bones. This matter was already discussed on KF.com . This shape also helps in limiting harness compression as explained in previous posts.

Insert the CL DD inside the hook and lock it inside the hole above the pin where the bungee is locked. The CL can come out not because of the design but because it goes up with low pull. Try to detach bungee and you will notice the difference. The curved part is wide to avoid the CL to exit easily.

The pad has a stitch at 2/3 of the height (just above the DYNABAR label) going from side to side allowing an easy bend when you lean forward. It is so high to protect body from hook sliding.

We supply the additional parts at a reasonable price and we don't think they are useless:
Sliding ring + fixed hook is used by many kiters
If you like central pull the pivoting option (hook locker+sliding hook) help a lot because the leverage is low and also pad tilt is low compared to fixed hook.
Fixed hook is a must for FreeStyle kiters.

As you can see from the image you buy 1 DYNABAR and get 5 options, you buy 1 RE spreaderbar and you get 1 option. Notice also that RE "copy&paste" also what someone pointed out as a design flaw, it seems also they don't use protective plastic sleeves. The design requirement was to have the minimum leverage as explained above, we should only review the polish process and avoid sharp hole edges, add few spare protective sleeves to the spare parts we supply in the standard package.

I like the Dynabar pad being that shape -- protects my wetsuit & gut from the hook and all the bits on the CL that scuff or tear it up. I got the kit in the first picture, cos I thought I might want the fixed/U-loop hook... bottom picture is the wave kit...?

Ffs how long can this crap go on
Mctool,d again

well Cauncy, I actually like this thread. Any ideas that give me a better fit for riding waves, more comfort, and less riding up of my harness works for me. I have tried a lot of the solutions offered and have a setup that is okay but not perfect. I have a Mystic Warrior and V8 Dyna. I bought an Engine but I am too fat for it right now. Two posts ago I see that Jay has adapter buckles so I can use the Jaybar with the Engine. I find that the Engine pad is too small, less travel. The Jaybar for me is the bigger one of the two they sell and fits my new European gut. Once shed I can go to a smaller pad. I like that people try different things in order to get a better ride. My gripe right now with the Engine is there is no where for the hook knife.

Select to expand quote

cauncy said..
Ffs how long can this crap go on
Mctool,d again

this is good stuff cauncy
there is no perfect harness out there ....

Select to expand quote

dafish said..
well Cauncy, I actually like this thread. Any ideas that give me a better fit for riding waves, more comfort, and less riding up of my harness works for me. I have tried a lot of the solutions offered and have a setup that is okay but not perfect. I have a Mystic Warrior and V8 Dyna. I bought an Engine but I am too fat for it right now. Two posts ago I see that Jay has adapter buckles so I can use the Jaybar with the Engine. I find that the Engine pad is too small, less travel. The Jaybar for me is the bigger one of the two they sell and fits my new European gut. Once shed I can go to a smaller pad. I like that people try different things in order to get a better ride. My gripe right now with the Engine is there is no where for the hook knife.

agree entirely dafish!
would have bought a Ride Engine if the strap system was improved.....

My 2 cents :-)

I just bought a new 11" Dynabar and fitted it to my Dakine Shorts. My thoughts are:

1) It looks well made and good quality
2) Using the rope and sliding hook as supplied standard, the hook is now about 200mm higher than my original hook, putting full depower out of reach and unusable.
3) In order to reduce the riding up I had to tighten the straps on the harness. This makes it impossible to undo the clip on the side due to the amount of play required to release it. In order to alleviate this issue I turned the clip around so that it clips from the front not the back. I suspected that it might unhook on the water, AND IT DID. Unusable!. The Dakine spreader bar has a neat, usable, release mechanism that locks the clip into place and requires about 10mm of play to connect or release, the Dynabar needs about 80mm.
4) The spreader bar does not have any attachment points underneath to attach the straps, on a seat harness, that run round the legs and up the groin area.

So now I am faced with the choice of cutting my losses and trying to sell it, or spending more money on the overpriced steel bar option (that, in my opinion, should be supplied with the unit instead of the two fixed hook options that are supplied) that may or may not fix one of the two issues.

Select to expand quote

SimonDreyer said..
My 2 cents :-)

I just bought a new 11" Dynabar and fitted it to my Dakine Shorts. My thoughts are:

1) It looks well made and good quality
2) Using the rope and sliding hook as supplied standard, the hook is now about 200mm higher than my original hook, putting full depower out of reach and unusable.
3) In order to reduce the riding up I had to tighten the straps on the harness. This makes it impossible to undo the clip on the side due to the amount of play required to release it. In order to alleviate this issue I turned the clip around so that it clips from the front not the back. I suspected that it might unhook on the water, AND IT DID. Unusable!. The Dakine spreader bar has a neat, usable, release mechanism that locks the clip into place and requires about 10mm of play to connect or release, the Dynabar needs about 80mm.
4) The spreader bar does not have any attachment points underneath to attach the straps, on a seat harness, that run round the legs and up the groin area.

So now I am faced with the choice of cutting my losses and trying to sell it, or spending more money on the overpriced steel bar option (that, in my opinion, should be supplied with the unit instead of the two fixed hook options that are supplied) that may or may not fix one of the two issues.

I did the same as you and set it up on my Dakine Shorts.

I decided that I would use a combination of the fixed hook and ring on the rope. I figured I would run the chicken loop through the ring and hook/unhook as desired to fixed point.

Seems to work okay so far with no rope wear.

Select to expand quote

SimonDreyer said..
My 2 cents :-)

I just bought a new 11" Dynabar and fitted it to my Dakine Shorts. My thoughts are:

1) It looks well made and good quality
2) Using the rope and sliding hook as supplied standard, the hook is now about 200mm higher than my original hook, putting full depower out of reach and unusable.
3) In order to reduce the riding up I had to tighten the straps on the harness. This makes it impossible to undo the clip on the side due to the amount of play required to release it. In order to alleviate this issue I turned the clip around so that it clips from the front not the back. I suspected that it might unhook on the water, AND IT DID. Unusable!. The Dakine spreader bar has a neat, usable, release mechanism that locks the clip into place and requires about 10mm of play to connect or release, the Dynabar needs about 80mm.
4) The spreader bar does not have any attachment points underneath to attach the straps, on a seat harness, that run round the legs and up the groin area.

So now I am faced with the choice of cutting my losses and trying to sell it, or spending more money on the overpriced steel bar option (that, in my opinion, should be supplied with the unit instead of the two fixed hook options that are supplied) that may or may not fix one of the two issues.

1) yes, it is
2) yes, can be an issue but if you need to reach out that far, your kite is poorly trimmed anyway 200mm sounds a bit extreme though, I'd not question if you'd said 20...
3) Dakine harnesses since a couple of years back have the clips go in from the front -- less to snag I guess the rational is, as they used to go in from the back -- but they've never released on me. I use an old Dakine clip with the red locker clip on the left, and the big Power Clip on the right. Tight fit, but they both go onto the Dynabar fine. The other option is ditch the clips and just use the straps, as Terry did in an earlier picture. They do move around in there though, up and down.

Jay, could we get a two-strap version?

4) Yeah it does. Wait, you mean the pull down strap? I have latest Fusion and use the pull down strap on the Dynabar.

PS what size, Simon?

I've been using a Dynabar with the solid U attachment as pictured above on my Dakine Vega seat harness for racing for about 2 years now. I love it. It still is rock solid with no signs of wear. The main advantage is that you can sheet in further than a standard hook. The U doesn't damage your board quite as much either if paddling in after a self rescue. Tried the slider, but I prefer a solid attachment especially for racing.

I picked up a couple of stainless rings and have now added them onto my custom sliding spreader setup instead of the hook I was using, that plus the slightly smaller chicken loop of my new bar has given me the extra couple inches I needed (thats what she said)

It has made a massive difference to my kiting especially in powered up conditions

This post has gone on for so long I feel like I have to be part of it. My setup is a flying objects flight control harness that I angle grinded the hook off, then ran a piece of 10mm dyneema along the length of the spreader bar and threaded a ronstan snap shackle onto it. Slides smoothly, no moving parts and costs next to nothing.

Select to expand quote

jackforbes said..
This post has gone on for so long I feel like I have to be part of it. My setup is a flying objects flight control harness that I angle grinded the hook off, then ran a piece of 10mm dyneema along the length of the spreader bar and threaded a ronstan snap shackle onto it. Slides smoothly, no moving parts and costs next to nothing.

I notice you also run boardys over your wetsuit,.. LOL!!!

terry, good topic mate

thanks for taking the time to add not subtract to the sum total of knowledge and shared experience

i recently tested the type of harness you used in the first pic

rope broke way out back of the shark buoys

strapless on a surfboard, now (effectively) unhooked in 25+ winds on a heavy swell

held it for a while, but the bar got pulled out of my unprepared hands by a gust

**** happens, lines can also break, not just ropes

long story short, the big swim followed

gotta admit, i'm not too keen to retry that harness setup any time soon

cheers mate

Select to expand quote

Kamikuza said..
PS what size, Simon?

11 inch

Select to expand quote

Gazuki said...

jackforbes said..
This post has gone on for so long I feel like I have to be part of it. My setup is a flying objects flight control harness that I angle grinded the hook off, then ran a piece of 10mm dyneema along the length of the spreader bar and threaded a ronstan snap shackle onto it. Slides smoothly, no moving parts and costs next to nothing.

I notice you also run boardys over your wetsuit,.. LOL!!!

Couldn't crop that out- it is actually the leg section of a 10 year old spring suit that has been cut off - it has a rather unfortunate hole where my testicles are... (Caused by a fin in exactly that spot!)... So unkind have to wear something to keep it G-rated. We've already established by my setup that I'm far too cheap to replace it!

I started using a Mystic harness with the Dynabar (V7) about 3 years ago. Initially started with the metal sliding bar but felt it was too heavy and clunky (and it messed up my surfboard a bit - especially during a paddle in... ).

Changed to the rope slider. Loved it, but had to bend the spreader bar back to shape 2 or 3 times after being rag dolled in the surf. Lost a bit of confidence in the Dynabar. The Mystic harness was also giving me back pains, so...

Splashed big $$ and bought a Ride Engine (Elite Carbon) with the large (10 inch, I believe) spreader bar (slider). LOVE the harness - un-****ing-believable comfort. Tested it by doing 12 days out of 14 with 6 hour kite sessions in WA recently. No back complaints at all. I did change 1 thing: I took the rolling Dyna hook from my old set up and use it on the RE set up.

IMO its best of both worlds.

DR

Thought the same thing about the Ride Engine - though you'd think for that price you'd get a line knife !

True. And the line knife pocket is tiny. Cant fit a condom in there - never mind a knife.

Select to expand quote

DutchRooster said..
True. And the line knife pocket is tiny. Cant fit a condom in there - never mind a knife.

Why do you need a condom when your kiting? Ive heard of a helmet and impact vest but that is taking protection to the next level

Select to expand quote

kiterdad said..
terry, good topic mate

thanks for taking the time to add not subtract to the sum total of knowledge and shared experience

i recently tested the type of harness you used in the first pic

rope broke way out back of the shark buoys

strapless on a surfboard, now (effectively) unhooked in 25+ winds on a heavy swell

held it for a while, but the bar got pulled out of my unprepared hands by a gust

**** happens, lines can also break, not just ropes

long story short, the big swim followed

gotta admit, i'm not too keen to retry that harness setup any time soon

cheers mate

This is why I recommend two ropes, but the back up looser than the first so wear is only on one rope. They do break contrary to many peoples experiences, and at 25 knots plus its a pain trying to get back in unhooked. This system though does not work with standard jbar hook/pulley, more for rings instead.

Does anybody know if the Dynabar v8 is compatible with the Manera exo harnesses?

Select to expand quote

DutchRooster said..
I started using a Mystic harness with the Dynabar (V7) about 3 years ago. Initially started with the metal sliding bar but felt it was too heavy and clunky (and it messed up my surfboard a bit - especially during a paddle in... ).

Changed to the rope slider. Loved it, but had to bend the spreader bar back to shape 2 or 3 times after being rag dolled in the surf. Lost a bit of confidence in the Dynabar. The Mystic harness was also giving me back pains, so...

Splashed big $$ and bought a Ride Engine (Elite Carbon) with the large (10 inch, I believe) spreader bar (slider). LOVE the harness - un-****ing-believable comfort. Tested it by doing 12 days out of 14 with 6 hour kite sessions in WA recently. No back complaints at all. I did change 1 thing: I took the rolling Dyna hook from my old set up and use it on the RE set up.

IMO its best of both worlds.

DR

DutchRooster said..
True. And the line knife pocket is tiny. Cant fit a condom in there - never mind a knife.

hey DR
i got the V7 on run out sale and was stoked with it the past month or 2, before i had the rope seemingly snap where the grommet looking things are in the pre-drilled holes on late last week. Looked like one had cracked and then was sharp enough to cut through the line. The other is in tact and looks fine. Black bungee snapped clear off when the bar ejected from my hands. lucky i was close to shore and swim was f'all.

Just wondering if you rode without the grommet things for the 3 years? and if you ever re-fixed or replaced the line, how did you do it? i need to find the best way to reattach my line through the grommetless hole as the rest is all still in perfect nick. (i should disclaim that the retailer offered to send me out some more of the insert grommet things, but i don't really want to run them again as it was the failure point before). will a know at the back do the trick (and btw you are advising a person whose approach to knots has always just been - tie lots).

Also - anyone know stockists of dyneema in perth if i want to run the back up second line as per dafish and co?
i have found it to be much better on my back, so keen to get it running again with some insurance as well.

this thread has heaps of info now, and takes ages to wade through, so sorry if these questions have been asked before.
cheers

Kitepower.com.au sells the line, but I'm almost certain Action Sports WA does too.
get the grommets put them in and trim them so they are just a tadbongervthsn the surface of the plate, ditch the hook if you don't unhook

while where here do any shops in w.a sell Dynabars or has anyone got one they want to sell ?

Select to expand quote

dafish said...
well Cauncy, I actually like this thread. Any ideas that give me a better fit for riding waves, more comfort, and less riding up of my harness works for me. I have tried a lot of the solutions offered and have a setup that is okay but not perfect. I have a Mystic Warrior and V8 Dyna. I bought an Engine but I am too fat for it right now. Two posts ago I see that Jay has adapter buckles so I can use the Jaybar with the Engine. I find that the Engine pad is too small, less travel. The Jaybar for me is the bigger one of the two they sell and fits my new European gut. Once shed I can go to a smaller pad. I like that people try different things in order to get a better ride. My gripe right now with the Engine is there is no where for the hook knife.

Pop on a gstring if you want comfort...
You tech pussys should have been around back in the 2 line wipika days... Comfort was the last thing on your mind.. More like the feeling of having a polar bear ripping your arms out of the sockets and slapping you with them...

Yacht grot in Fremantle have dyneema line in a lot of different sizes and quite cheap to they also have an impressive array of knick knacks to work into your custom setup

I've got a Size M warrior3 harness with a V7 Dynabar fitted and quick connect clip, harness is in good nick its the aqua and orange version $200 + shipping.

Select to expand quote

RPM said..


Pop on a gstring if you want comfort...
You tech pussys should have been around back in the 2 line wipika days... Comfort was the last thing on your mind.. More like the feeling of having a polar bear ripping your arms out of the sockets and slapping you with them...

I was, those days sucked balls, people died, many of them, due to the dodgy crap sold by Wipika and the early brands. Now we can actually enjoy the sport, and ride waves almost properly :-)
Cauncy should just stop poking himself in the eye.

Select to expand quote

TerryMcTool said...

RPM said..


Pop on a gstring if you want comfort...
You tech pussys should have been around back in the 2 line wipika days... Comfort was the last thing on your mind.. More like the feeling of having a polar bear ripping your arms out of the sockets and slapping you with them...

I was, those days sucked balls, people died, many of them, due to the dodgy crap sold by Wipika and the early brands. Now we can actually enjoy the sport, and ride waves almost properly :-)
Cauncy should just stop poking himself in the eye.

Have been Known to take my old wipikas out , actually some of my most adrenalin filled kiting days, wish they were still in production then the waters would be quieter, less injuries, and you wouldn't be that pre occupied to be thinking about the engineering of a harness,