Few comments.
I've seen the plastic grommets split on the dynabar. More on the V8 dynabar. Same one jaystore is advising to smooth polish the rope holes. This version is also very heavy because of it's sold construction. I personally wouldn't buy it as a wave rider, and am waiting for the new lighter model V8 to replace my old V7.
Bonster I like your ingenuity... but doesn't that set up with a soft harness and no spreader bar hurt your lower back. If it doesn't, it would be interesting to know why. It goes against the movement towards rigid harness shells.
To all the guys that have a sliding safety attachment ring/point on the same rope as their kite attaches.....It's safer if you can fix it to centre of your harness spreader; not on rope. I used to have safety sliding on ring until it nearly drowned me. Was overseas on sizeable reef break. Late backhand re-entry and board with legrope squirted through lines and whole lot got rolled with me; pulling kite down. Could release kite quickly, but battled to release moving safety in mess getting rolled in whitewash.......You also won't lose your kite if your rope fails; it will just go to safety.

Select to expand quote

DimiSUP said..

bonster said..
Now I'm more in the waves with a surfboard, the thing that pisses me off most are metals on harnesses and buckles. Metal spreader with hooks keeps dinging my board when I land on it, whiles wiping out. And buckles stresses the glass job whiles carrying the board to and off the beach.
Here's what I did:

You will need 3 metal rings, yes I know. But wait for it.
8mmx68mm heat shrink (optional)

First remove the handle at the back of the harness, if. You have the new mystic harness or ion it may be difficult. So you will have to make what I'm about to show you.

Use that handle and heat shrink a sleave on both end of the handle cord. Covering the plastic sleave and the dynema loop on the end. Don't cover it all the way as you will need to now attach the ring on both ends. You can put a third ring in between the two rings. To make a running ring to attach your chicken loop on. If you hate metal, then forget the third ring. It Works the same but will wear faster.
Loop one ring with the right side/ bottom belt of your harness and buckle it tight. Then put it on you and do the same on the left side.
Attach your chicken loop on the metal ring or the plastic sleave handle and now attach your safety how you see fit create a running safety leash that deploys from the front is best.
With this system you can't unhook but because your body is more open you can still create the same feeling. As the loop slides all the way to the hips.

Use A harness that's 1 size smaller for this as you don't want the harness to move and it will support the small of your back.

I suggest NOT to use your harness with this setup as there is a very big chance to injure yourself!!!
Without the metal spreader bar your harness will be squeezing hardly your waist when the kite is pulling you.
If the ring slides to one side and the kite pulls your strong all the force on the other side will be distributed over a small part of your body where the handle/rope is in contact with your body.

The sliding rope should always be attached to a hard (metal, carbon etc.) bar !!!
Otherwise the kite could create enormous squeezing effect on your waist and injure you badly.

Select to expand quote

jaystore said..

Now I'm more in the waves with a surfboard, the thing that pisses me off most are metals on harnesses and buckles. Metal spreader with hooks keeps dinging my board when I land on it, whiles wiping out. And buckles stresses the glass job whiles carrying the board to and off the beach. Here's what I did: You will need 3 metal rings, yes I know. But wait for it. 8mmx68mm heat shrink (optional) First remove the handle at the back of the harness, if. You have the new mystic harness or ion it may be difficult. So you will have to make what I'm about to show you. Use that handle and heat shrink a sleave on both end of the handle cord. Covering the plastic sleave and the dynema loop on the end. Don't cover it all the way as you will need to now attach the ring on both ends. You can put a third ring in between the two rings. To make a running ring to attach your chicken loop on. If you hate metal, then forget the third ring. It Works the same but will wear faster. Loop one ring with the right side/ bottom belt of your harness and buckle it tight. Then put it on you and do the same on the left side. Attach your chicken loop on the metal ring or the plastic sleave handle and now attach your safety how you see fit create a running safety leash that deploys from the front is best. With this system you can't unhook but because your body is more open you can still create the same feeling. As the loop slides all the way to the hips. Use A harness that's 1 size smaller for this as you don't want the harness to move and it will support the small of your back.

You didn' consider the "squeezing effect" of your solution. The metal spreaderbar helps and we designed DYNABAR a bit longer to limit this issue.
Our new solution FlexTech Carbonfiber www.facebook.com/FlexTechCarbonfiber is aimed to solve this issue, the POWERBAND will help and limit the squeezing and make your solution more feasible.

JAY - I have no vested interest this conversation - however IMO - perhaps you should do some more R&D before you release this carbon Powerband design - unless you've made changes from the design I tried?

I was (un)fortunate enough to test TMcT's JAY harness with power band front and back. I had four goes on it over different days over a couple of weeks in different conditions.

First time I used it, was with both the carbon band in the harness and behind the Dynabar. It was extremely UNCOMFORTABLE - so much so I had to come in and change to my own harness to keep kiting. I found it was 'digging' into my back and for the first time in 12 years of kiting I had back pain.

McT and I investigated inside the harness and tore some stitching to remove the back Powerband - it is a 2 Dimensional shape - mate it needs to be 3 Dimensional!

See my review on the Ride Engine Harness on the 'Reviews' forum - which is comfortable - because it has been moulded to the human anatomy of a persons back - 3 D shape! Try the Ride Engine for a comparison and it will blow your mind how comfortable the back of the harness is!

I felt strong pain in the back area around the carbon 'band' using the Powerband for an hour in powered up conditions...... maybe you have tested and like it (you might be made of steel ) - but I've been trying lots of harnesses over the years to find a good one and truthfully, sorry to say, IMO yours was the most uncomfortable harness I've used with the Powerband in.

The next 3 times I tried it without the Powerband in the back - and it felt like any other harness - except more restricted with the Powerband in the front behind the Dynabar. This I noticed say when picking up my board to launch or doing a fully cranked bottom turn when you can have your upper body leaning over your lower body as much as possible etc.. Even rolling up your kite at the end of the session was uncomfortable. I can't see the point of your design in the front either - could it perhaps even injure ribs as it's so wide?

So, this Powerband (the version I used) IMO - does nothing for comfort in the back - and for the front - I didn't notice any appreciable improvement over the Dynabar. It didn't seem to 'crush' less or 'ride-up' less.... IMO 'squeezing' is felt through the back - so I can see your logic - but the carbon moulding needs to be 3 dimensional.

This thread and others will give you plenty to think about - and work on the next version of the Dynabar? Simpler, lighter and safer..... maybe even a composite 'carbon' option ? Dynabar, for many kiters, creates a much better body position and has improved the performance of many riders.

I'm not trying to discourage your work in harness development - keep it up. But try a Ride Engine, do some brainstorming on Seabreeze, have a good look at the 3D anatomical & mechanical 16th century drawings of that other famous Italian inventor - Leonardo da Vinci ..... And do some extensive R&D before releasing anything - maybe you have and I'm only speaking from my own experience and got it wrong!? But if you get it right (for me) - I'll buy it!

Select to expand quote

pearl said...
Few comments.
I've seen the plastic grommets split on the dynabar. More on the V8 dynabar. Same one jaystore is advising to smooth polish the rope holes. This version is also very heavy because of it's sold construction. I personally wouldn't buy it as a wave rider, and am waiting for the new lighter model V8 to replace my old V7.
Bonster I like your ingenuity... but doesn't that set up with a soft harness and no spreader bar hurt your lower back. If it doesn't, it would be interesting to know why. It goes against the movement towards rigid harness shells.
To all the guys that have a sliding safety attachment ring/point on the same rope as their kite attaches.....It's safer if you can fix it to centre of your harness spreader; not on rope. I used to have safety sliding on ring until it nearly drowned me. Was overseas on sizeable reef break. Late backhand re-entry and board with legrope squirted through lines and whole lot got rolled with me; pulling kite down. Could release kite quickly, but battled to release moving safety in mess getting rolled in whitewash.......You also won't lose your kite if your rope fails; it will just go to safety.

No my back is not sore and all I have is smiles while I'm riding. I use an extra small harness for this one, I'm a small to medium. I'm also riding down wind a lot so the tension is less.
There is a pad that comes with my older Dakine harness. But at the moment it's not necessary. For wave riding I usually wear my harness loose on a standard waist. I get breathless at times when I get worked so having that breathing space and the waist harness spinning is great. That's why I won't put the pad on , I find the top edge of the pad sits under my ribs and pushes it up at 12.
Have anyone tried the pyro maniac by Dakine?

Heres my answer to split bushes and cut Dyneema.
Both D links are rated to 750kg each....and floating
Pin from rear is 2500kg.
Both pivot and swivel.
Installed with loctite on threads.

Interesting. I wonder how it'll hold up the pulley hitting the shackles...

Ill give you an update in a few sessions...

Update.....just had an arvo session on this setup
all feels the same in operation...the slight reduction
in travel is insignificant . Im happy and can always
go back to original set up if i want...just makes the XT
a little more diverse.

Select to expand quote

Greenarrowz said..
Heres my answer to split bushes and cut Dyneema.
Both D links are rated to 750kg each....and floating
Pin from rear is 2500kg.
Both pivot and swivel.
Installed with loctite on threads.

Your design is only worsening the performance of the Dynabar while trying to solve an non existing problem - wear of the rope at the connection holes. When the holes are properly polished you even do not need the plastic sleeves and the rope will never ever wear at the connection holes prior to wear in the middle where the most friction occurs. If this happened somewhere, it is only because of a faulty Dynabar with sharp edges at the connection holes. If I was Mr. Jay I would definitely polish and inspect every Dynabar personally!!! Telling the customers to buy and use the plastic sleeves (2 of 4 broke by me also) or telling the customers to polish themselves the holes because the china factory and the Italian office can not guarantee proper quality, especially when safety is concerned, is lousy customer service, I believe.

Your design is worsening the performance by:
1. Putting the connection point away from the bar and creating leverage forces - the vertical pull of the kite will try to rotate your bar.
2. Putting the connection point away from your body and increasing the forces which try to rotate your whole harness.
3. Your sliding distance is reduced.
3. The pulley can hit the D link and can be damaged.

All these disadvantages are minor but why bother, just polish your holes

P.S. All the negatives of the hook (except that it is fixed) come from the added leverage created by the fact that the connection point is away from the bar and the kite creates torque forces on the bar and on the whole harness which rotates around your body and rides up. When the connection point is away from your body you try to fight against the increased rotational forces when riding toeside instead of comfortably leaning on the kite. The sliding or fixed in the middle rope (like the BRM connection system) makes huge difference in toeside riding comfort and during turns because they bring the connection point closer to the body. The same idea stays behind the creation of the NP Tracker Hook Spreader Bar.

The thick protective padding behind the bar additionally worsens the performance effectively moving the connection point further away from your body. I am using my Dynabar since the very beginning without the protective padding behind it which brings the connection points as close as possible to my body minimising leverage and toque forces created by the pull of the kite.

^^^
3 D = contoured concave and convex in the around your back = Ride Engine

DimiSUP,

Interesting. I have a V7 Dynabar and use it as well as the set up I posted a picture of back at page 3 of this thread, where I use a DaKine spreader bar and pad with the hook cut off, threading the rope through the attachment points and threading the CL through the stainless steel ring.

I used my Dynabar the other day and found that it rode up much more that the DaKine set up, for the reasons your state in your post. It is also much heavier.

I also don't like the fact that the connection point is further away from me compared to when I use the rope/ring set up, which in turn means that the bar can end up further away.

I intend to see if I can use the Dynabar with the DaKine spreader pad, which I hope will be much lighter compared to the Dynabar pad and should prevent so much twisting.

Seems sliding setups are a long way from finding the definitive setup.
Seems the commercial product has as many or more problems than a home rigged one.

I see an opening for a totally new harness slider setup designed from the ground up to take the market.

Select to expand quote

Hausey said..


JAY - I have no vested interest this conversation - however IMO - perhaps you should do some more R&D before you release this carbon Powerband design - unless you've made changes from the design I tried?

I was (un)fortunate enough to test TMcT's JAY harness with power band front and back. I had four goes on it over different days over a couple of weeks in different conditions.

First time I used it, was with both the carbon band in the harness and behind the Dynabar. It was extremely UNCOMFORTABLE - so much so I had to come in and change to my own harness to keep kiting. I found it was 'digging' into my back and for the first time in 12 years of kiting I had back pain.

McT and I investigated inside the harness and tore some stitching to remove the back Powerband - it is a 2 Dimensional shape - mate it needs to be 3 Dimensional!

See my review on the Ride Engine Harness on the 'Reviews' forum - which is comfortable - because it has been moulded to the human anatomy of a persons back - 3 D shape! Try the Ride Engine for a comparison and it will blow your mind how comfortable the back of the harness is!

I felt strong pain in the back area around the carbon 'band' using the Powerband for an hour in powered up conditions...... maybe you have tested and like it (you might be made of steel ) - but I've been trying lots of harnesses over the years to find a good one and truthfully, sorry to say, IMO yours was the most uncomfortable harness I've used with the Powerband in.

The next 3 times I tried it without the Powerband in the back - and it felt like any other harness - except more restricted with the Powerband in the front behind the Dynabar. This I noticed say when picking up my board to launch or doing a fully cranked bottom turn when you can have your upper body leaning over your lower body as much as possible etc.. Even rolling up your kite at the end of the session was uncomfortable. I can't see the point of your design in the front either - could it perhaps even injure ribs as it's so wide?

So, this Powerband (the version I used) IMO - does nothing for comfort in the back - and for the front - I didn't notice any appreciable improvement over the Dynabar. It didn't seem to 'crush' less or 'ride-up' less.... IMO 'squeezing' is felt through the back - so I can see your logic - but the carbon moulding needs to be 3 dimensional.

This thread and others will give you plenty to think about - and work on the next version of the Dynabar? Simpler, lighter and safer..... maybe even a composite 'carbon' option ? Dynabar, for many kiters, creates a much better body position and has improved the performance of many riders.

I'm not trying to discourage your work in harness development - keep it up. But try a Ride Engine, do some brainstorming on Seabreeze, have a good look at the 3D anatomical & mechanical 16th century drawings of that other famous Italian inventor - Leonardo da Vinci ..... And do some extensive R&D before releasing anything - maybe you have and I'm only speaking from my own experience and got it wrong!? But if you get it right (for me) - I'll buy it!

Then save 65€ because you will buy a POWERBAND and sell back you RideEngine if you already bought it.

First of all Leonardo da Vinci was a genius and I'm proud to use his knowledge and designs to develop JAY products.
One of my first designs based on Vinci's "uomo vitruviano" was the DYNABAR used by thousands of kiters, it has small issues to be resolved but it does very well what it was declared to do.

From what you write it looks you are involved in design, but I think you are a bit superficial in what you declare and I explain you why.

Last year I started on FlexTech Carbonfiber project and produced a first stock of samples in size L-XL and you used one of them (it was a mistake to let a user to use it), but meanwhile we changed few things like the profile shape and Monday we will start selling on our our web eShop the first stock we received few days ago.




But lets talk about FlexTech...
The picture below shows a human body in movement and at the first glance I notice "flex", so I worked on this idea for my solutions.
8 years ago I released the first DYNABAR version and I designed it a bit longer to have more sliding run and limit body compression.
3 years ago I started working on ABS solution (Adjustable Back Support) and produced an harness with some rigidity given by a PVC BAND and 3 replaceble fiberglass battens. The user can vary the stiffness of the back area.



The problem with harness is compression and ride up. How to solve it? With DYNABAR I solved 40% of the problem as explained above.
Rigidity is good to limit ride up but is also immobilizing a part of you body. Plus it doesn't help when you need to tighten the harness because it compresses the front pad to the back rigid harness, you need a minimum compression on the hips too.
POWERBAND is the solution, it is only 9-10cm tall to avoid immobilization of the body, it has good stiffness in the back area but some flex in the hips area.
POWERBAND is compatible with almost all waist harnesses and when you tighten it creates a rigid ring that limits ride up and distributes pull around your back.

You also mention something that has no meaning to me:
3 D = contoured concave and convex in the around your back = Ride Engine
I say again, how can you wear a rigid shell around your body that follow exactly his shape when the pull forces will try to rotate it loosing this "benefit". Plus between the shell and the body you have 2-3cm of foam, so what are we talking about?
See the image published on German OASE.COM forum (Germans go deeply into technical matter) about RideEngine, it is self explanatory. POWERBAND inside a waist harness reacts differently.



Finally rigidity works also thanks to sliding hook system (rigid harness with fixed hook doesn't seem to have success) and without any doubt 8 years ago JAY was the first company to introduce a commercial product into the kitesurfing market. The picture below shows that RE solved the problem, this is really low level marketing for cooks... If you listen the interview made by TheKiteboarder magazine their claim is more evident of this picture.




I'm sure these few words are clarifying all your doubt and weakening your certainties.

Let's just say we both agree that da Vinci was a genius! I'll go further and say that he was probably the most talented human to live - ever! He was the mother of invention!

Your Dynabar is good - but not revolutionary as is the Ride Engine. Try the Ride engine back to back (no pun intended) with your Powerband and you'll probably see (feel) what I'm talking about....?

my two ctv. After reading the post I checked the rope. It look good but not the inserts. see attached picture. I have stopped using the dynbar until I get the inserts from ???? don't know yet. Kitepower doesn't have them on their webpage.

I should gotten spare inserts when I purchased the dynabar.
I have the version 7 dynabar
the holes look ok. No sharp edges.

now I am back to a regular hock and I hate it.









cheers

Select to expand quote

Hausey said..
Let's just say we both agree that da Vinci was a genius! I'll go further and say that he was probably the most talented human to live - ever! He was the mother of invention!

Your Dynabar is good - but not revolutionary as is the Ride Engine. Try the Ride engine back to back (no pun intended) with your Powerband and you'll probably see (feel) what I'm talking about....?

Beatifull minds see ahead, we were lucky to find one of Vinci's designs "Cinta per aquilone 1.0" and adding few details we designed our "Cinta per aquilone 2.0"!


I've seen RE "harness evolution" at IKA World Championship and it looks good, but we never test other brand products because it could lead us in the wrong direction...

It doesn't need to be any more complicated than this

Select to expand quote

theWaterBoy said..
It doesn't need to be any more complicated than this...

At least it needs a sliding ring.

The friction will wear the plastic tubing of the CL soon or later and most CL are relatively expensive and not easy to find. The decision of the RE team to promote their sliding solution without a ring/pulley is beyond my comprehension.



When you dump the hook you gain two more benefits:
1. You eliminate the possibility your lines to tangle with the hook during wipeout.
2. You can comfortably paddle your surfboard without the risk to ding it.

With the RE metal sliding bar you can still catch a line or ding your board with its hook-like ends and because of them it is NOT compatible with any other harness on the market except their own.

Select to expand quote

DimiSUP said..

theWaterBoy said..
It doesn't need to be any more complicated than this...

At least it needs a sliding ring.

The friction will wear the plastic tubing of the CL soon or later and most CL are relatively expensive and not easy to find. The decision of the RE team to promote their sliding solution without a ring/pulley is beyond my comprehension.



When you dump the hook you gain two more benefits:
1. You eliminate the possibility your lines to tangle with the hook during wipeout.
2. You can comfortably paddle your surfboard without the risk to ding it.

With the RE metal sliding bar you can still catch a line or ding your board with its hook-like ends and because of them it is NOT compatible with any other harness on the market except their own.

I still think rings are too thin and don't spread the load enough, but I seem to be the only person wearing out CLs so just ignore me.

Select to expand quote

DimiSUP said ...



When you dump the hook you gain two more benefits:
1. You eliminate the possibility your lines to tangle with the hook during wipeout.
2. You can comfortably paddle your surfboard without the risk to ding it.

#3. You can correctly place the kite in its sweet-spot more easily in the sky (when riding backside) with a sliding tow-point thingy.

That benefit would have to be the money-shot for folks who prefer to ride waves with their backs to the face.

lol.

Select to expand quote

DimiSUP said..

theWaterBoy said..
It doesn't need to be any more complicated than this...

At least it needs a sliding ring.

The friction will wear the plastic tubing of the CL soon or later and most CL are relatively expensive and not easy to find. The decision of the RE team to promote their sliding solution without a ring/pulley is beyond my comprehension.



When you dump the hook you gain two more benefits:
1. You eliminate the possibility your lines to tangle with the hook during wipeout.
2. You can comfortably paddle your surfboard without the risk to ding it.

With the RE metal sliding bar you can still catch a line or ding your board with its hook-like ends and because of them it is NOT compatible with any other harness on the market except their own.

Some customers and resellers asked us to make an adapter to attach DYNABAR to RE harness. I think it is possible using the RE webbing after removing the PA tube. See picture below. What I'm not sure of is how much load the harness plastic buckle can support with this setup (different angles), maybe someone here can test it.

Select to expand quote

waveslave said..

DimiSUP said ...



When you dump the hook you gain two more benefits:
1. You eliminate the possibility your lines to tangle with the hook during wipeout.
2. You can comfortably paddle your surfboard without the risk to ding it.

#3. You can correctly place the kite in its sweet-spot more easily in the sky (when riding backside) with a sliding tow-point thingy.

That benefit would have to be the money-shot for folks who prefer to ride waves with their backs to the face.

lol.

You are totally correct but the RE bar ALSO has that feature and I commented only the ones that it is lacking (ring, lines tangle free, surfboard ding free)

Select to expand quote

Kamikuza said..
I still think rings are too thin and don't spread the load enough, but I seem to be the only person wearing out CLs so just ignore me.

RE promotes that their spreader bar enables the CL to be closer to the body and thus increases the depower throw. In order to do that they eliminate the ring and provide the bar with relatively short rope without the possibility to lengthen it (no tail). I believe that this marketing strategy is behind the lack of a ring and the short rope because otherwise the connection point is pretty at the same distance as with a hook. Anyway many RE users buy and install rings/pulleys additionally and some change the rope.

As far as your statement that SS rings are too thin - I agree but only if we are talking about the Jaystore/Dynabar rings
The Ronstan rings do perfect job for me.

I am not saying that RE sliding bar is a bad product - on the contrary it is very nice product but it's not the "holy grail", especially when it is not compatible with any other harnesses.

I still think the Ronstan are too small too I'd like something with at least a 50mm diamter curve...

Select to expand quote

DimiSUP said..

waveslave said..

DimiSUP said ...



When you dump the hook you gain two more benefits:
1. You eliminate the possibility your lines to tangle with the hook during wipeout.
2. You can comfortably paddle your surfboard without the risk to ding it.

#3. You can correctly place the kite in its sweet-spot more easily in the sky (when riding backside) with a sliding tow-point thingy.

That benefit would have to be the money-shot for folks who prefer to ride waves with their backs to the face.

lol.

You are totally correct but the RE bar ALSO has that feature and I commented only the ones that it is lacking (ring, lines tangle free, surfboard ding free)

Kamikuza said..
I still think rings are too thin and don't spread the load enough, but I seem to be the only person wearing out CLs so just ignore me.

RE promotes that their spreader bar enables the CL to be closer to the body and thus increases the depower throw. In order to do that they eliminate the ring and provide the bar with relatively short rope without the possibility to lengthen it (no tail). I believe that this marketing strategy is behind the lack of a ring and the short rope because otherwise the connection point is pretty at the same distance as with a hook. Anyway many RE users buy and install rings/pulleys additionally and some change the rope.

As far as your statement that SS rings are too thin - I agree but only if we are talking about the Jaystore/Dynabar rings
The Ronstan rings do perfect job for me.

I am not saying that RE sliding bar is a bad product - on the contrary it is very nice product but it's not the "holy grail", especially when it is not compatible with any other harnesses.

DYNABAR has no SS sliding ring included but only a 4mm SS ring to attach kite safety leash. The sliding ring we have is below and is very strong 5mm rod.
We think SS ring is a wrong solution, it's not meant to slide and wears the dyneema quickly. The sail rings some kiters are using are not designed for continous sliding like in kitesurfing.

What are the dimensions of the pulley shown above ^^^^^^ & how much is it as a spare part ?

Select to expand quote

jaystore said..
DYNABAR has no SS sliding ring included but only a 4mm SS ring to attach kite safety leash. The sliding ring we have is below and is very strong 5mm rod.
We think SS ring is a wrong solution, it's not meant to slide and wears the dyneema quickly. The sail rings some kiters are using are not designed for continous sliding like in kitesurfing.

I wouldn't describe the item (price: 15,00 €) on the picture as a SLIDING RING, first because it does NOT slide and second because its shape is NOT a ring. I would rather call it a pulley. There is a very big chance that some CL will jam and NOT release the kite (as described on the official Jaystore Internet page - Please check if the tube and lock mechanism of your CL can fit the ring size of 14mm.).



Here are two Jaystore official pictures of the Dynabar V8 recommended configurations:

DYBNABAR-V8-Conf-SlidingRings-FixedHook


DYBNABAR-V8-Conf-SlidingRings


Initially I used my Dynabar with the two original sliding rings (as recommended by Jaystore) for +150 sessions before I changed the worn but NOT torn rope. I have used the second rope for +70 sessions with one Ronstan ring so far and a wear is only slightly visible in the middle. I am sure that it will last at least +150 and even more sessions because the Ronstan ring is thicker (5 mm rod) and better polished then the original ones. Cost of the rope is a few cents per session only and I am perfectly OK with this price.
Try to calculate the cost per session of your kites, boards or expensive wetsuits and you will immediately stop to worry about the rope wear. I suggest that we focus more on safety, reliability and performance instead of arguing how to save a few cents per session.

By the way the pulleys and even the low friction rings worsen the performance of the Dynabar in some aspects but that's another story.

Select to expand quote

Kamikuza said..
I still think the Ronstan are too small too I'd like something with at least a 50mm diamter curve...

Well, the original 14 mm Jaystore 'sliding ring' is definitely not for you.

^^^^^ maybe someone here can test it.

While your at it - it would be interesting to see how much load the 20mm RE buckle can handle as well?
Looks a bit 'small'?!

Ride engine looks good, plus what looks like wallet friendly pricing.
Why is the Jay product so expensive?

Select to expand quote

Absolutbeginer said...
Ride engine looks good, plus what looks like wallet friendly pricing.
Why is the Jay product so expensive?

Why a Ferrari is so expensive? ;)

A RE fixed hook costs 61$ and sliding rope 61$ .
dynabar XT V8 costs 99$ but you get many options:
Fixed hook, slider dyneema, sliding hook, hook locker for pivoting hook,
hook locker for CL connection, dyneema release system, 1-2 belt hook buckle
ring for kite leash and cast in mould. You can add additional steel sliders.
Price 2009 99€ price 2016 99€.

It should cost a lot more...

Thanks All, read all advice and have adopted set up below, works perfect.
Was concerned the non-padded spreader wouldn't work but have no issues.
I've removed the pin (rope slider) replaced with a larks head type system.
Back up rope slider is Fusion rope sold as an alternative to dyneema.
Future will use a short sleeve over the rope slider as it enters the slider bar and have a figure 8 knot showing above where the elastic cord attached.
Shortened the safety with some fancy stitching (whipping line).
cheers great thread.

Select to expand quote

jaystore said..

Absolutbeginer said...
Ride engine looks good, plus what looks like wallet friendly pricing.
Why is the Jay product so expensive?

Why a Ferrari is so expensive? ;)

A RE fixed hook costs 61$ and sliding rope 61$ .
dynabar XT V8 costs 99$ but you get many options:
Fixed hook, slider dyneema, sliding hook, hook locker for pivoting hook,
hook locker for CL connection, dyneema release system, 1-2 belt hook buckle
ring for kite leash and cast in mould. You can add additional steel sliders.
Price 2009 99€ price 2016 99€.

It should cost a lot more...

I'd consider a Jay setup, but I really don't see the point of buying a bunch of hardware I will never use.
Why not sell it as bits or a full package so people can just choose what they want if they like?

Jaystore here's some feedback. I purchased a new V8 XW (lightweight) dynabar to replace a worn V7. I use them on my ride engine harness which is the oldest custom made one in Australia. 1 good thing about the harness, even though it is small 32" waist, I can run a 13" dynabar and get hip to hip movement on sliding rope. Much more than any ride engine spreader product.The V 7 is 4 seasons old and apart from surface rust, it's only the spreader pad that is a bit battered. Anyway the V 8 XW is still much heavier than V7 but an improvement on the V8. First use the plastic lug that protects the rope slid up the rope. this may be why some are breaking ropes at the plate. It seems they are looser than on my V7. The roller on the hook is sooo smooth, much better, but the bend (shape) of the hook itself is way too shallow. V 7 has much more of a U shape, and is less likely to have your chicken loop fall/twist out. I've fixed this with a hammer. As robust as that hook looks, it bent far easier than the V7 stainless hook. The spreader pad on the V 8 XW is way wider. Too wide for me. The V 8 spreader bar itself is not curved enough for my torso shape (too flat). I understand that it may be perfect for others. The v 7 is much more prone to bending, which is good to shape perfectly. So in summary I've gone back to using my V 7 which performs much better for me! just stripping a few parts off the V 8 XW.