So if you've got a plot of dots maybe a flexicurve could be used?

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Gestalt said..

515 said..
"The more effort I put into the board the more I'd like it to last so ill probably try and make it stronger than planned."

Hey Gestalt, what materials/construction methods are you going to do now?
Being a light wind wave board its probably not built to be indestructible for high flat landings but some sandwich construction?
In terms of q cell mix straight on the foam I see the point but think its more about having the glass wet out but not more resin than necessary. Pin holes can be filled.
Rails look great! Keep the good work and progress coming

thx.

so no sandwich construction. i'm using a more traditional layup. because of that used a higher density core.
i was originally just going to do 2 layers of volan top and 1 layer bottom like a longboard. build it, test it, and start again.

but... now.

deck
2 layers 6oz volan
6oz volan patch to nose
carbon patch to mast track
0.6mm timber patch to footstraps

Rails
100mm carbon uni rail tape

Bottom
1 layer 6 oz volan + 1 layer 4 oz glass

also, rail will be cut lap.

Interesting. What density is the blank?

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R1DER said..

Gestalt said..

515 said..
"The more effort I put into the board the more I'd like it to last so ill probably try and make it stronger than planned."

Hey Gestalt, what materials/construction methods are you going to do now?
Being a light wind wave board its probably not built to be indestructible for high flat landings but some sandwich construction?
In terms of q cell mix straight on the foam I see the point but think its more about having the glass wet out but not more resin than necessary. Pin holes can be filled.
Rails look great! Keep the good work and progress coming

thx.

so no sandwich construction. i'm using a more traditional layup. because of that used a higher density core.
i was originally just going to do 2 layers of volan top and 1 layer bottom like a longboard. build it, test it, and start again.

but... now.

deck
2 layers 6oz volan
6oz volan patch to nose
carbon patch to mast track
0.6mm timber patch to footstraps

Rails
100mm carbon uni rail tape

Bottom
1 layer 6 oz volan + 1 layer 4 oz glass

also, rail will be cut lap.

Interesting. What density is the blank?

blank is 28kg/m3

I dropped the blank at the nxs factory today so peter can install the plugs. Was good to catch up. Checked put the chickens, picked some fruit. Je also is in pro ess of building a paulownia board from wood grown on his property.

Back to the blank.

We went through fin positions, strap spacing and mast location to suit the board.

On the wall of Peters shed are some boards of old. One of his speed boards and his 6'8" wave board.

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Gestalt said..
On the wall of Peters shed are some boards of old. One of his speed boards and his 6'8" wave board.

Pete's shed is awesome .... so much good stuff in there of current trends and days gone by ... great guy too

Yeah I love it.

He's got a lot of boards on the go at the moment.

Can't build a board without a wanky name and a logo so here is a nod to 80's skateboarding and the graphics on my previous board.

You can't put a wanky logo on the board . Who would do that
So will you be wetting on the board , no sandwich ?
Will you be doing this with lots of pics ?

yep no sandwich. will keep up with the pics.

been a slowish process so far.

Have been looking into how to do the artwork. The idea is for the art work to be green and vibrant to enhance the volan fabric in the layup.
the plan being to do an abstract squeegee pull of multiple colours to about 3/4 of the length of the board from the nose. then leave the tail of the board white with black pads and straps.

Having never done this type of artwork, i have no idea if it will work or what it will look like so intend on doing a test run first in case i need to change tack.

looking around at whats available i preferred resin tint greens over the acrylic greens. I ordered a bunch of resin tint colours for the artwork and a black posca pen to do the fused logo. tints are in the post.


p.s. i noticed they match my helmet.


the other update i'm very excited about is i ordered a set of custom fins which are finished and will be in the post soon. i'll take photos and reveal once delivered.

Peter sent me a shot. Boxes are in. Woodies are next then deck plugs and track

Be interesting to know what your board builder guy (Peter?) thinks of those new Chinook slot boxes.
I'm struggling with the concept mentally as that lip is just dumb.
They are not designed to go under glass and the lip sanded off like a Futures install. If any of the lip is removed the box will be too shallow (measures at an inch deep)

According to Chinook, the lip is to stop glass lifting with fin removal and is supposed to remain. But its too high - nobody is going to do 2mm thick glass job. So the boxes have to be set too deep, which then means a skim of filler around the outside flange to get it up to the level of the bottom. Plus u have to cut slots out of the glass to fit around, its fiddly.
Glassing straight over the top of something like a Flikka box is just sooooo much easier.

Weird.

i'll ask and let you know. i'm going to have to get him to run me through the details as once the boxes are in i'm finishing things from there.

yeah the moo ones look the best for sure but bloody expensive at $50 a box. they are longer too. the chinook ones are much more affordable. do you know of any other options?

Mark...Pete Ross used them on my last board so you could ask him as well..

Latest news....

Board is ready to be picked up from Peters place which will happen this weekend. Photos to follow.

I also have a set of fins to unveil.... ??

I contacted mark stone and asked if he'd be able to shape me a set of quad fins which arrived today in the post. So I now have a set of 18r / 11f fins for the board. Yes they are awesome. I really like fiberglass wave fins over g10.

I have nothing but nice things to say about Mark. Never met in person but the few conversations I've had on the phone have left me feeling like I was better for the experience.

I have a couple more fin setups I'm putting together so once I get them all finalised I'll grab some more shots.

They look really nice fins
The bigger fins have great width but plenty of sweep for good upwind drive but down the line throwing spray top turns

Were hanging for pics Gestalt.

the fins look like they should have a good top end as the foil is thin.
tomorrow i have the day off and i'm planning to get some more work done.

What are the black supports each side of the the boxes and mast track.
Please explain what and how they are.

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Imax1 said..
What are the black supports each side of the the boxes and mast track.
Please explain what and how they are.

the black spots are "woodies", timber strips to reinforce the boxes. in this case paulownia that peter grew and milled on his property. could have been ply or any other wood however paulownia has a very high strength to weight ratio and doesn't absorb water like some timbers so is pretty desirable.

i have a piece to put between the rear strap plugs.

tomorrow the plan is to laminate the carbon rail tape and nose patches, seal the blank with qcells and then make up a foam board to test the coloured resin on.

I remember the woodies were popular in polyester windsurf boards.
Interested to see how the resin tinting goes.
Great to see progress photos and keep them coming

Guys at the beach asked for more photos today. I have been time poor with kids stuff but did manage to forge ahead.

Laminated the carbon rail and nose patch. Cut out timber feet patches and laminated one so far. I also mixed up a test batch of white tinted q cells and applied to some packing foam for graphics test.

carbon cut and ready.

freehand drawn timber patch on yellow trace to use as a template to cut the hoop veneer patches.

hoop patches good to go.


carbon rail tape parabolic stringer.
laminated carbon direct to foam core so the qcell coat can go over the top and hide the carbon.



carbon nose patch.

10kg pack of rice to hold down timber feet patch.

work bench

the good stuff.

taped down the timber patch prior to resting the rice bag over the area.

It occurred to me tonight I should have used white tint in the resin when doing the carbon. Would have saved around 150g in weight by removing the need for 2 coats.

Lookin good! Cool to see different construction materials n methods. How thick are the 'hoop pine' veneers?

Hoop is 0.6mm thick.

Understand time poor with family commitments.
Great to see progress photos

Managed to finish off hoop patches and q cel to deck.

I think the q cel I mixed was a bit too runny for the job and probably needed a touch more white tint. I was hoping the sealer coat would hide the carbon more than it did and there are a couple of spots where I needed a thicker consistency.

So am intending doing a thicker and whiter mix for the bottom of the board. If that turns out better i'll redo the deck. If not will try white acrylic spray paint over the carbon and sand back. Trying to keep an eye on the weight.

Will post more photos once sealer coat is sorted.

Nice work , looking sexy.
Love the poor mans rice vac bag .

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Imax1 said..
Nice work , looking sexy.
Love the poor mans rice vac bag .

$24 vacuum pump that doesn't upset the neighbours..