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Flex2 said..
Made up a couple of T-display units and shoulder case a month ago but forgot to post here. Suits Be-180 GPS. Used a 1000mA hr battery to keep form factor small as test with display on lasted 9hrs logging with this sized bat. With display off when moving enabled should last longer but haven't tested that as yet. Using a USB-C charge mat makes only a few easy solder connections required.

Only had 1 day of wind to try it out since making it but worked fine but was a struggle with my eyes to read display in the sun. Completed unit is about 1/2 the size of the e-paper version. The T-display has a Led when USB power applied which is useful for wireless charging. Of course I managed to scratch the outer screen when filing down to size after gluing. Thanks again for Jan for all the effort.

The print and more details/pics at www.printables.com/model/1014912-shoulder-mount-case-for-jan-heynens-t-display-diy

Very good looking!
so you glue it first with the transparent screen and later paste the outer purple frame?
will it be fine with solid resin?
thanks & regards

yes, details are in the printable link...I'm sure fine if printed with resin, or same if you mean filled with solid potting epoxy

My Ali Express QI charge board used in previous setups could not be ordered anymore, so I had to look for an other one.
I found this little setup which fits under the battery with 2mm height.
nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006387536716.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.564b79d2KWHWm1&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
I use the 25mm circular one.
It even has a 1S charge function onboard just like the Lilygo's. Just in case your board onboard TP charger is broken.
It also has a 5 Volt output to go to the Lilygo.

Paco

SW-update on Github for the E-paper and the T-display :
T-display : SW5.88 Deep sleep current 8mA -> 1mA, by switch off displaydriver in deepsleep
E-paper : SW5.89 with next changes :
Added Lisa logos
Stat_screen 7,8,9 no info-bar, because info-bar overwrites last line....
Shorten bar_length if actual time is visible
Added bar length info on the screen (large font on)
Added speed_screen 7 -> 500m (Weymouth speed week!)
Added stat_screen 8 -> Best 500m runs + timestamp.
Added stat_screen A -> Best 2s runs + timestamp stat_screen / speed screen choice extended, digits + characters can be used.....
Bugfix in simon screen : rounding error fix

As the choice for screens is now extended in the configuration, saving again the configuration is necessary !
Greetings, Jan.

Thank again Jan
Im designing a case for the T board with a 1800 batt, so did all the reading but I wonder if there is a reason why you guys always use a clear cover on top, can the screen just be poured over and leave a protective resin layer of about 2mm? does it crack or something or is it just for a better look..?
Also saw Flex using the small cristal reed switch. I have them but also bought the plastic ones (4x18mm) bit bigger, but by the comments I thought they were more robust. I see the cristal are very fragile but if they work fine over time may be better, do they have any issue?
thanks & regards, Salvador

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PacoRaapNL said..
www.printables.com/model/997941-esp32-diy-gps-windsurf

Can some one add this link to the place where all versions are gathered?
Detailed manual is in the making.

Thanks, Paco

Hi Paco,
Thanks for this design. Note that it is not suitable for those using the BE-280 GPS module. Its' dimensions are 28mm x 28mm x 8.4mm.
cheers,
Detlev

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Jetlag said..

PacoRaapNL said..
www.printables.com/model/997941-esp32-diy-gps-windsurf

Can some one add this link to the place where all versions are gathered?
Detailed manual is in the making.

Thanks, Paco

Hi Paco,
Thanks for this design. Note that it is not suitable for those using the BE-280 GPS module. Its' dimensions are 28mm x 28mm x 8.4mm.
cheers,
Detlev

Detlev you are correct that a BE280 gps does not fit in that specific design. The design is for BE220 or BE180. The parts list only mention the Beitian BE220 GPS.Also the battery is a different size as other designers use. Reason for this all is it has to fit in a small case.Cheers, Paco

Got a T display in with 16mb.
Followed the T display guide.
Could add the OTAupdater file with correct partition.csv.
Checked partition setup as mentioned in the manual.
Could connect by wifi and flash the 5.88 file to the board.
After reboot and power by USB. I get the message ssidNOK.
It could update by OTA but cant find the ipaddress.
Also as AP I can not connect to the 192.168.4.1 page.

Also the AP screen is offset downwards.

The first picture shows "Connected", so some device (your phone ?) was connected to the ESP32AP. Then you can set the configuration, and set your SSID. OTA is not possible in ap-mode. Remember, a phone will not accept IP adresses, you have to switch off "mobile data".

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rp6conrad said..
The first picture shows "Connected", so some device (your phone ?) was connected to the ESP32AP. Then you can set the configuration, and set your SSID. OTA is not possible in ap-mode. Remember, a phone will not accept IP adresses, you have to switch off "mobile data".

OK it is working now. Had to use an Android tablet.

Thanks, Paco

I have my unit working, but I need some help. For some reason the tboard is not saving any track, they should appear in the files page, right? Also can't change the top values of the screen with the short touch. im running tha last bin

Also working on a compact box. I will share when I have the chance to check is ok. It is configured with the Be-182 and a 1800 batt, the total size is about80x31x25.

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veton said..
I have my unit working, but I need some help. For some reason the tboard is not saving any track, they should appear in the files page, right? Also can't change the top values of the screen with the short touch. im running tha last bin

I assume this is the T-display, with the local flash memory (no SD card).
Yes, the tracks should be appear in the webserver if the logging was active :
No connection with wifi (go outside)
The gps should find enough sats, then
Minimum speed should be exceeded (config)
Some logfile should be "on" (config)
Top values in the screen cant be change, this is not (yet) implemented in the sw. As the screen is so small, I assumed that no one could read these values while surfing....
Greetings, Jan.

I did everything, but the problem was that the partitions file was missing in its place. I struggled a lot to find the solution, bricking it several times and eventually reaching the point of having almost no memory-a total mess.
If anybody gets in trouble, it's good to know there is a resource in Github from Lilygo that you can use to reset the board to factory settings. I did, and it works fine.
After that, I reinstalled carefully, and it's working perfectly now.
About the top values they are indeed small, but I was more pointing to the fact that the stats screen is a bit poor, would be great to have a second one with 100m/250m/500m/top . I mean while sailing having the speed in big is enough, but once you stop at the shore or after a run is very useful to check the scores to adjust gear or just see how its going.
In Spain/France we use a lot those fixed distances more than speed over time (10 sec and so on). Just a suggestion for the future, to toggle to other screens to see some scores other than 2sec and alfa.
Thanks for the help

This forum has piqued my interest. I ordered all the stuff in China and have everything working reasonably well. Thanks for sharing all the info.

Maybe it has been written somewhere, but I have not been able to find it; When I want to use an Led diode as a charge indicator, how do I solder it and are there any software modifications to be done?

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JurjenvdN said..
This forum has piqued my interest. I ordered all the stuff in China and have everything working reasonably well. Thanks for sharing all the info.

Maybe it has been written somewhere, but I have not been able to find it; When I want to use an Led diode as a charge indicator, how do I solder it and are there any software modifications to be done?

Hoi Jurjen,

If you use the 213BN (without the communicationn chip and with usb-c instead of usb-micro) it has 3 leds. A green one to show the 213bn is on (has power), a blue one to show there is power on the usb-port. A red one to indicatie the battery is charging (together with the blue one). If the battery is full, the red one goes out and only the blue one is visible, if disconnect the power on the usb-c port the blue one goes out and only the green one is visible.
How to do it on a B74... i don know (i havent looked at that).

Select to expand quote

PacoRaapNL said..

rp6conrad said..
The first picture shows "Connected", so some device (your phone ?) was connected to the ESP32AP. Then you can set the configuration, and set your SSID. OTA is not possible in ap-mode. Remember, a phone will not accept IP adresses, you have to switch off "mobile data".

OK it is working now. Had to use an Android tablet.

Thanks, Paco

yea, AP modus is not function very good. Its better (faster connection) on a android device, it connect after several seconds (if it works). On a iphone its trying to connect for 2 minutes, sometimes it worked, but often not, very frustrating. Thats why we implanted 2 wifi networks. One for your home wifi and one for your mobile phone in hotspot modes. Hotspot on a phone works fine.

Warning....Wireless charging!!!

When in our case a esp-gps is fully assembled we use only a 5watt charger (5v 1amp) like the (old) orginal iPhone chargers. This way the produced heat is limited. As i test the hardware before assembling, i recently used a 20watt apple charger (usb-c). should be no problem because the wireless charger and reciever is not in a housing so the heat can go away.

So much for the theory, in practise the wireless reciever burnsout on the end of the charging. First one was a 213BN (no chip with leds) usb-c charger reciever.

nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005007575135816.html?algo_pvid=808d6cd3-07e1-4c27-8e78-7c377e0df0d0&algo_exp_id=808d6cd3-07e1-4c27-8e78-7c377e0df0d0-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%212.67%210.93%21%21%212.84%210.99%21%40211b61b017307372244928798eeccb%2112000041356309321%21sea%21NL%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=14flE7Jz4aEs&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

At first I thought it was an exemplary error, so i charged a B74 with the micro-usb reciever. Hmm same result. Burnsout at the end of the charging.
The 20 watt apple charges has 9volt 2.22 amp or 5volt, 3amp.

fortunately the 2 esp's are not broken, only the 2 usb (C and micro A) wireless recievers are broken, (can be replaced because they were not assembled). But ones assembled with epoxy it cant be replaced.

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BigBoss said..

JurjenvdN said..
This forum has piqued my interest. I ordered all the stuff in China and have everything working reasonably well. Thanks for sharing all the info.

Maybe it has been written somewhere, but I have not been able to find it; When I want to use an Led diode as a charge indicator, how do I solder it and are there any software modifications to be done?

Hoi Jurjen,

If you use the 213BN (without the communicationn chip and with usb-c instead of usb-micro) it has 3 leds. A green one to show the 213bn is on (has power), a blue one to show there is power on the usb-port. A red one to indicatie the battery is charging (together with the blue one). If the battery is full, the red one goes out and only the blue one is visible, if disconnect the power on the usb-c port the blue one goes out and only the green one is visible.
How to do it on a B74... i don know (i havent looked at that).

I want to add an extra led diode which if visible when the esp is in it's houding. How do I wite it? Solder it to the red led?

Select to expand quote

JurjenvdN said..

BigBoss said..

JurjenvdN said..
This forum has piqued my interest. I ordered all the stuff in China and have everything working reasonably well. Thanks for sharing all the info.

Maybe it has been written somewhere, but I have not been able to find it; When I want to use an Led diode as a charge indicator, how do I solder it and are there any software modifications to be done?

Hoi Jurjen,

If you use the 213BN (without the communicationn chip and with usb-c instead of usb-micro) it has 3 leds. A green one to show the 213bn is on (has power), a blue one to show there is power on the usb-port. A red one to indicatie the battery is charging (together with the blue one). If the battery is full, the red one goes out and only the blue one is visible, if disconnect the power on the usb-c port the blue one goes out and only the green one is visible.
How to do it on a B74... i don know (i havent looked at that).

I want to add an extra led diode which if visible when the esp is in it's houding. How do I wite it? Solder it to the red led?

which version do you have? 213B74 or 213BN (without leds) or 213BN (without comm. chip)?

On the attached picture, you can see the position of the charge LED (not populated with the B74). If you solder a LED here, polarity is important !
A much simpler way : check the voltages on the screen. Switch it ON, and check the bat voltage on the screen. If charging, the voltage should go higher (take it away from the charger, voltage should drop) . In deepsleep, the device wakes up every hour, and adjust the voltage on the screen.
The max charge current is about 500 mA (limited by the charge chip). A complete dead bat of 2000 mAh needs about 4 hours of charging.
Another easy measurement : check the current of the QI chargepad. Simple usb devices exists that measure current & voltage.
@ Veton : more stat screens will be added for the T-display, it is on the list !


Greetings, Jan.

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BigBoss said..

JurjenvdN said..

BigBoss said..

JurjenvdN said..
This forum has piqued my interest. I ordered all the stuff in China and have everything working reasonably well. Thanks for sharing all the info.

Maybe it has been written somewhere, but I have not been able to find it; When I want to use an Led diode as a charge indicator, how do I solder it and are there any software modifications to be done?

Hoi Jurjen,

If you use the 213BN (without the communicationn chip and with usb-c instead of usb-micro) it has 3 leds. A green one to show the 213bn is on (has power), a blue one to show there is power on the usb-port. A red one to indicatie the battery is charging (together with the blue one). If the battery is full, the red one goes out and only the blue one is visible, if disconnect the power on the usb-c port the blue one goes out and only the green one is visible.
How to do it on a B74... i don know (i havent looked at that).

I want to add an extra led diode which if visible when the esp is in it's houding. How do I wite it? Solder it to the red led?

which version do you have? 213B74 or 213BN (without leds) or 213BN (without comm. chip)?

213BN without comm chip

Select to expand quote

JurjenvdN said..
This forum has piqued my interest. I ordered all the stuff in China and have everything working reasonably well. Thanks for sharing all the info.

Maybe it has been written somewhere, but I have not been able to find it; When I want to use an Led diode as a charge indicator, how do I solder it and are there any software modifications to be done?

If you go to this page
www.printables.com/model/997941-esp-32-gps-diy-windsurf-foilsurf-wingsurf-sailing/files
and choose the dowload files section there is a PDF with all the wiring I use. The charging led connection is explained too in detail.

The reason I use the red charging led in all my designs is to make it easier to see if the charge pad is placed correctly and charging starts.
It is a no brainer solution that does not cost much but is very convenient.

Paco

I received a new product from China.
It is the high tack acrylic tape I already use but then in a rectangle form which is larger as the top surface of my cases.
nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006606995914.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.103d79d2Dmu6ZL&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
With this acrylic tape patch you are 100% sure there are no edges that could fail.
Although it works fine sofar with the 10mm width in 4 pieces. See the manual.
Stick it on the flat case top and cutout what is not needed.
Add the transparant top plate and cut the tplplate to size and your done.

For those who are not pouring the cases with epoxy.............
For testing I put my designs first in a fresh water rain tank.
That is without electronics and front plate downwards. So it will float.
If they stay float for two days I am sure the sealing design is working for regular water resistant use in fresh water. Waterproof is a not needed in this case as the unit will not be submerged deep or long. I have no idea how it will behave in salt water!!!!!!
I forgot that one of my desings was already for 2 weeks in the tank. Still no water inside.

Other tip is to add some rice grains into the cases when closed up.
The rice grains will absorb any moisture like condensation overtime.

Happy building and thinkering.

Paco

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JurjenvdN said..

BigBoss said..

JurjenvdN said..

BigBoss said..

JurjenvdN said..
This forum has piqued my interest. I ordered all the stuff in China and have everything working reasonably well. Thanks for sharing all the info.

Maybe it has been written somewhere, but I have not been able to find it; When I want to use an Led diode as a charge indicator, how do I solder it and are there any software modifications to be done?

Hoi Jurjen,

If you use the 213BN (without the communicationn chip and with usb-c instead of usb-micro) it has 3 leds. A green one to show the 213bn is on (has power), a blue one to show there is power on the usb-port. A red one to indicatie the battery is charging (together with the blue one). If the battery is full, the red one goes out and only the blue one is visible, if disconnect the power on the usb-c port the blue one goes out and only the green one is visible.
How to do it on a B74... i don know (i havent looked at that).

I want to add an extra led diode which if visible when the esp is in it's houding. How do I wite it? Solder it to the red led?

which version do you have? 213B74 or 213BN (without leds) or 213BN (without comm. chip)?

213BN without comm chip

Ok?. Than you should have the leds (and the usb-C port). Or is there a 213bn without Comm. Chip and without leds?
orderd at tinytronics?

How can I tell which 2.13 inch chip I actually have? I had ordered a couple of B74 chips (GDEM0213B74, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GY2Z75P/). Trusting that I got what I ordered, I went ahead and installed B74 firmware on them, without first checking the screen. But when trying the GPS out on the water the first time today, it seemed to be stuck on the "GPS Initializing" screen. After some more tests, it seems that the screen does not update with B74 firmware, but it does update without problems with the BN213 firmware.

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boardsurfr said..
How can I tell which 2.13 inch chip I actually have?

Take a look at the flexprint coming out the e-paper, there is a marking on it. Mine BN213 has the marking FPC-75288 (see dke.top/products/213-eiink-display). The B74 has another print : FCP-A002 (see www.good-display.com/product/391.html).
Greetings, Jan

Thanks. That helped, I got BN213, and Lilygo gets a bad review for a misleading description. I thought that would be the case since the documentation about the B74 on the Lilygo site shows it uses a different communication chip. Of course, the BN213 firmware working better is also a clear indication, but that's a bit tricky since some of the screen updates do work, so it's not obvious right away.

For those who want to build small I did a proof of concept test.
T-display @ CPU speed 40Mhz @ Refresh 5Hz.
1S 800 mA lipo 50x30x5 mm
Runtime 8 hours from start to finish @outside temp of 6 degrees celsius.
Currently testing with 2000 mAh, which will be overkill.

Paco

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PacoRaapNL said..
For those who want to build small I did a proof of concept test.
T-display @ CPU speed 40Mhz @ Refresh 5Hz.
1S 800 mA lipo 50x30x5 mm
Runtime 8 hours from start to finish @outside temp of 6 degrees celsius.
Currently testing with 2000 mAh, which will be overkill.

Paco

2000mAh did 21 hours.

Select to expand quote

PacoRaapNL said..

PacoRaapNL said..
For those who want to build small I did a proof of concept test.
T-display @ CPU speed 40Mhz @ Refresh 5Hz.
1S 800 mA lipo 50x30x5 mm
Runtime 8 hours from start to finish @outside temp of 6 degrees celsius.
Currently testing with 2000 mAh, which will be overkill.

Paco

2000mAh did 21 hours.

The e-paper b74's on a 1500 mah battery runs about 20 hours (firmware 5.89. 5 hz 80mhz) an 213BN around 21 hours