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rp6conrad said..
When the setting is "Auto", there is a check @ boot which type of gps module is connected. When the module is recognized, the exact type is written to EEPROM, and to the config file. Second boot gives then the last detected type. If you load SW 5.75, auto detection is active @ every boot !

Jan,

When I load 5.75SW to the BN213 at start up it says M10 38400bd detected.So this firmware version detects the type and even shows satelites in the display.
Then I load 5.83 and this firmware does not do GPS initialization.

Now I know it detects as M10 48300bd I set it from the gps-type dropdown menu in the configuration and save this configuration.

After the reboot when I log into the config again the setting is again M8 9600bd.

Could it be the EEprom does not store this single setting?

When I for example set cpu freq from 80 to 40 and reboot the setting is 40.

Weird..................

Paco

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Freezer said..

rp6conrad said..
Update SW 5.83 is available on github. Changes :
CPU freq logging configurable 40, 80, 160 or 240 MHz (longer battery life with lower CPU-freq)
CPU freq when SetupGPS() 240 MHz -> 40 mHz, Current with M10 87 mA -> 47 mA
Warning in webpage "Files" if CPU-freq is not optimal
Checksum fail UBX message in error log (*.txt file)
Voltage battery in infobar
First test : 5 Hz -> need 80 MHz, 10 Hz -> need 160 Mhz
Add "Giant font ON" in speed screens
Moved E_paper task to core 0
RxBuffer Serial2 1024 -> 2048
Support for T5 BN266 screen (All credits to SD Freezer !)

Greetings, Jan.

For anybody that is interested in more battery operating lifetime, the modifications of Jan to throtle the frequency has a really nice impact.

I had it running in a real life example with multiple trips with car and bicycle and it lasted for 325527sec => 90 hours and 25 minutes (it is listed in the txt file)
I had it running on a 4000mah battery, BN266 screen and Beitian M10 @40MHz. It is not recommended to set it to 40MHz as it would loose datapoints, but in a quick check inside the data I could not find it (does not mean they are not there though). Now I'm repeating the test @80Mhz. Expectation is it will run 20% shorter, but should still be 72h20 long and significantly longer than the default 47h15@240MHz. I recharged it again and now repeating the rest at 80MHz to confirm.

Obviously the results with an M8 will be less as it draws more power. Curious to see those numbers as well.

Just looks at the sizes of these files:

The display does not look good for values >100, need to lower the digits from 2=>1 to keep it within the available space:

Simon a question from your obsevations.

In the txt file the seconds are those POWER ON time or SATELITE ENABLED time?

In my measurements and check of this SECONDS value it does not correspond with POWER ON time.

When I start the GPS at 6.45 AM and see at 2.45 PM it is battery low and the TXT value is 15000 seconds this gives me roughly 4.1 hours.
Where the POWER ON time visibie checked is 8 hours.

The GPS is on my workdesk with average 18 sats in the display.

What is your or others experience?

Paco

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PacoRaapNL said..
When I start the GPS at 6.45 AM and see at 2.45 PM it is battery low and the TXT value is 15000 seconds this gives me roughly 4.1 hours.
Where the POWER ON time visibie checked is 8 hours.
The GPS is on my workdesk with average 18 sats in the display.
What is your or others experience?
Paco

The "Total time" should be the logging time, so it should be the same as the in the logfile. Logging only start when :
Min 5 sats are received
Min speed for 10 sec must be reached (min speed in the configuration).

The issue with Auto-detect gps type is probably a bug, I will take a look at it.

Greetings, Jan.

Select to expand quote

rp6conrad said..

PacoRaapNL said..
When I start the GPS at 6.45 AM and see at 2.45 PM it is battery low and the TXT value is 15000 seconds this gives me roughly 4.1 hours.
Where the POWER ON time visibie checked is 8 hours.
The GPS is on my workdesk with average 18 sats in the display.
What is your or others experience?
Paco

The "Total time" should be the logging time, so it should be the same as the in the logfile. Logging only start when :
Min 5 sats are received
Min speed for 10 sec must be reached (min speed in the configuration).

The issue with Auto-detect gps type is probably a bug, I will take a look at it.

Greetings, Jan.

Thanks Jan for this update about the "seconds value".

With this M10 gps the displays says "no gps data received in 10 seconds" with the 3.85SW.
So does it detect the GPS correctly and is the next step the culprit?With 5.75 it nicely works receiving data and display speed etc. Missing all nice features from 3.85.

Paco

New observation which makes me curious if this is a bug.

SW 5.75 M10 34800bd.

Start at 06.45

Drive to work which is 38.000m.

Place the gps on my work desk STATIONARY and see the led of the GPS blink every second.

It is now 14.00 hour and while the screens are advancing automaticly I see that by every full screen rotation the total distance is upped by 1 meter where the GPS does not move at all. Tolerance of the GPS signal still thiking the object is moving?

So when it started at 38.000 it currently the distance says 40424 .
Paco

BTW 800 mah battery with this M10 on 240 MHZ cpu speed and 5 Hz cycle gives 7.5 hours power.Curious to know what it does with 80Mhz CPU speed and 5 HZ cycles

This is completely normal. The gps reports the speed in mm/s. Even with complete standstill, the reported speed is still 0 - 1 m/s. This is added to the distance. Indoor, the signal quality is worse, abd reported speeds can even be higher ( so called spikes).

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What Jan said. There are plenty of GPS watches out there which do not show this behaviour - they are using a filter to set speed to 0 if it is below 1 or 2 miles (or whatever threshold they have). On some GPS devices, the threshold can be set (GT31 for example).
The drawback of this is that the tracks often have a slight delay at the start of a run. It's preferable to have the data, because you can use the stationary speeds to get an idea about the performance of the GPS. The "stationary speeds" will get filtered out when analyzing with the default settings in GPS Speedreader and GPSResults (although GPSResults uses a relatively high default setting that also removes speed from slogging, whereas Speedreader has a default of 0.6 knots).

I had some time to troubleshoot.Reverted back to version 5.75 then upto 5.78. all worked fine.

The config of gps type I could now set fixed at M10 38400bd.

5.79 did gave no gps in 10 seconds message.

Revereted back to 5.75 which worked fine.

Then went up the order again and even 5.83 now works with gps initialization and GPS detection and the config shows M10 38400bd.

Do not know why it did not worked and the config did not accepted the manual gps speed setting.

Me happy.

I had some time to troubleshoot.Reverted back to version 5.75 then upto 5.78. all worked fine.

The config of gps type I could now set fixed at M10 38400bd.

5.79 did gave no gps in 10 seconds message.

Revereted back to 5.75 which worked fine.

Then went up the order again and even 5.83 now works with gps initialization and GPS detection and the config shows M10 38400bd.

Do not know why it did not worked and the config did not accepted the manual gps speed setting.

Me happy.

Finally could test my device (using the acryllic case with a waterproof pouch + arm band) and it worked great. I am really happy about it, as I had a lot of problems soldering (cold soldering joints) and the device behaved very strangely until I finally fixed it.

One thing that didn't really work for me is the downloading the tracks when the device is creating its own AP. The download goes very slowly, and often completely stops. Also the Webserver seemed to be quite unreliable when launching its own AP. Tried connecting/Downlaoding with an Android phone. On a hindsight: maybe the reason is that it is running with 80 Mhz?

The ESP32 is only running@80 MHz when logging ! At boot and Wifi/AP connected, it is running @ 240MHz. There must be another reason. Did you switch off "mobile data" in your phone ?

Today I tested the low 25 mA drain M10 gps, the cpu speed 80Mhz @ 5Hz with a 800 mA lipo gives me 11 hour power on time.

From 4.1 to 3.2 volt battery voltage according to the display.

Enough for a whole day of data fun.....

Paco

Any of you guys is using it for wingfoiling? my first approach (still under construction) is the gopro8 housing way. Wonder if it would make sense to see if the whole thing could be mounted between the handles. maybe in a row. esp32, battery. so pretty slim and thin. probably 3d printing something to mount the items and than seal it with vacuum foil?! ideas welcome!

Select to expand quote

northsea303 said..
Any of you guys is using it for wingfoiling? my first approach (still under construction) is the gopro8 housing way. Wonder if it would make sense to see if the whole thing could be mounted between the handles. maybe in a row. esp32, battery. so pretty slim and thin. probably 3d printing something to mount the items and than seal it with vacuum foil?! ideas welcome!

Have you seen the boom mounted design of Flex: www.printables.com/model/233931-improved-windsurfing-diy-gps-boom-mount

The problem with winging I think is you gibe the wing goes up-side-down and the screen does not rotate automatically. The easy way is to mount 2 next to eachother, one rotated. For windsurfing I think they mount 2 boom-mounts on each side of the sail.

Some GNSS receivers have 6 wire connections and include a gyro. It should be possible program the displays to rotate it 180deg when it is up-side-down (currently not supported).

Select to expand quote

PacoRaapNL said..
Today I tested the low 25 mA drain M10 gps, the cpu speed 80Mhz @ 5Hz with a 800 mA lipo gives me 11 hour power on time.

From 4.1 to 3.2 volt battery voltage according to the display.

Enough for a whole day of data fun.....

Paco

The 500mA Lipo gives me ~6,5h
4,4V to 3,1V

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PacoRaapNL said..

CarlosSainz said..

PacoRaapNL said..

Actimel87 said..
Hey Paco,

did you consider gluing the window and using an O-Ring or a round Cord in a Labyrinth seal?
Also I think I would reduce the size of the "window part"to an absolut minimum. A smaller window is more robust and has less area where you can get a leaking.

Actimel, yes I thinkered about both things.
I am still in a low tinkering stage.
I first like to have the project that I can open and close again with using less parts as possible.
Replacing the tape and transparant window are not the cost if opening the box is needed due to an electronic problem.

The larger size of the transparant window lets the pressure in the box compensate like a membrane (that is my thinking) depending on depht and temperature changes.

If you glue the transparant window the glue joint might break or leak more easily, therefor Simon his 3M VHB foam tape would solve that as it is a flexible foam and so with temperature changes the whole can expand and retract giving less stress on the whole structure.
Or you use a flexible adhering butene kit which might be a bit more messy.

The top plate over the large transparant window has two functions.
To devide the pressure over the foam tape as regular as possible.
Estathic and only viewable parts are exposed reducing the possibility to reduce impact from the outside.
My thinking is it would survive as it is no brick object anymore.

For the sealing with an O-ring or 2 mm diameter slicone foam tube I already looked at Ali for it but not yet ordered.
nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005325164575.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.506c61d7kFiHhr&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld

However the flat 3M tape has more sealing surface as a compressed tube.I currently use 10 mm width but might opt for other test to 5mm width.

So much tinkering and decisions,

Paco

Do you think the smaller version would fit in a GoPro waterproof housing ?

Actimel,

Here you GO-Pro... :-)


I designed an insert for this GO-Pro case.

Tight fit but it wors fine.

Has place for a round 1500 mah Lipo 14500

Equipped with a small switchbutton that can be operated with the left push button that is already in the case.


The gps is at the bottom face up.
I have no idea about sat reception this way but we will find out.
IO39 can be used by either small switch or reed switch.
For test I use both.


The wireless charge coil nicely fits in the lens cover.


Here the unit on the charge base.
Blue LED is charging.


Finally the 800 mah Lipo is also in.
5mm height.
So now I can proceed with the other versions.


@ Anders, thanks for the extra explanation with your epoxy route.

Paco

Hey Paco, can you link the shop where i can buy the switchbutton? Awesome idea to ise the existing case button.

nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004001434474.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.7cf7TTzZTTzZyh&algo_pvid=2ae01381-2d89-4c62-a82b-0f1120394c99&algo_exp_id=2ae01381-2d89-4c62-a82b-0f1120394c99-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%211.43%211.43%21%21%2110.91%2110.91%21%40211b619a17119500921627499eb2ec%2112000027701639472%21sea%21NL%21124737440%21&curPageLogUid=OoY2IK2yRZzz&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
6x6x5mm tactile switch.
Link is just an example.
I just finish a new 3D print version for a waterproof arm pouch.
Pictures will follow.

Paco

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PacoRaapNL said..

6x6x5mm tactile switch.
Link is just an example.
I just finish a new 3D print version for a waterproof arm pouch.
Pictures will follow.

Paco

thx for the example. and curious what i will print next.. ;-)

A new version designed for the use in a waterproof arm pouch.
Uses low current draw 25 ma max @3,3 volt M10 GPS, 800 mah 1S lipo battery with 3.0 volt cut off.Battery span from 4.1 to 3.2 volt @11 hours constant use.

Measures 58x88x19mm

Can be switch on/off by magnet or push button.

LED for charge and button active.

PVC cover sticked with transparant high tack tape.

After aplying the tape it is pressed with a clamp for 3 hours.



Two locations for the LED's. Location for the pushbutton (tactile switch of 6x6x5mm).

Enough room for the battery and GPS under the lilygo 2.13 BN.

Also a location for the glass magnet switch in case you want to use it.

I solder thin silicone 32 gauge wires to it, to not put any strain on them.

Also I cover the magnet switch with a shrink cover.

The wires exit at the same side of the shrink tube.

The tape when pressed makes a nice waterproof seal at the cut edges..

The sides of the case are 6mm width. I tack the tape along the innner edges.

Then I try the difficult to peel off the red cover top layer of the tape partly first at each end.

I use a wet tip of a cut off knife blade.

The small part inbetween I lift at the long sides in the middle gradually.

When all red cover is ready to be peeld off completely, I do it one by one.

Pre working on peeling prevents you to put your hands on the sticky glue while owrking on the other.


The sticky Acryl tape in 10 mm witdh which I have on hand. 5 mm can be used too.


When the tape is placed on the case I put a slightly larger piece of PVC plate on it and press it for 3 hours with a clamp.

Then with a wet scissor I cut the tape and pvc along the edges.

With a 3 hour press, I press the case and pvc cover once more.

The PVC top cover plate is flexible enough to press the switch.


The black 3D printed cover up plate is glued or taped to make it a noce looking device.


Enjoy,

Paco

Hello, I have a few questions. Why do we use a 2000mAh battery and not a 4000mAh? Is it because of the size? I don't really understand how to recover the tracks / how to stop / launch the gps. As for the gps, if I've understood correctly, I can use this one for greater precision (Beitian BK 280 GPS). As for charging, it's better to use wireless charging, but what type of micro usb is it? On aliexpress you can choose between micro usb A and micro usb B.
Thanks in advance for your clarifications :')

You can select any battery you like. The maximum voltage should definitely not exceed 5v! A nice to have is some integrated protection circuits.

If you use the BE-XXX GPS you can approximately estimate the tracking duration in hours by multiplying the battery capacity mAh with 0,013.

About precision you really not need to be worry. The tracking is unmatched precisely;) with a BE

Select to expand quote

Floriansicard said..
Hello, I have a few questions. Why do we use a 2000mAh battery and not a 4000mAh? Is it because of the size? I don't really understand how to recover the tracks / how to stop / launch the gps. As for the gps, if I've understood correctly, I can use this one for greater precision (Beitian BK 280 GPS). As for charging, it's better to use wireless charging, but what type of micro usb is it? On aliexpress you can choose between micro usb A and micro usb B.
Thanks in advance for your clarifications :')

Size of battery is just a choice between size / weight / needed capacity. If you are planning for a 24 h record, go for the 4000 mAh. If you can charge between every session of 4h, 1000 mAh will do the job.
Recover the tracks is over Wifi. When switched on, the ESP tries to connect to your home network (settings in the config.txt file on the device). If not, it can act as a standalone Wifi AP, wher you can connect to with your device (tablet, phone, laptop...). Then you can download the tracks over Wifi.
Switching on is with 2s push or 2s activating the reed switch (magnet). Switching off exactly the same, 2s push or 2s activating the reed switch. "Off" is not really off, but the device goes in "deep sleep". Every 30 min, there is a wakeup, and the batt voltage is measured and displayed.
The Beitian BE series has the ublox M10 gps, optimized for low power. The BK series has the ublox M9 gps, optimized for high navigations rates (up to 20 Hz). The accuracy for doppler speed is the same for both devices.
20 Hz is really overkill for our purpose, so most of us use the Beitian BE @ 10 Hz or @ 5 Hz.
The wireless charging is usefull if you have a sealed case, or just for convenience. I guess micro USB A or B is the orientation of the connector. When the e-paper screen is facing to you, the flat side of the micro USB connector is on the downside.
Greetings, Jan.

I have a very simple unit, not water proof, and charge via usb B. It's much faster than the wireless of my sealed boom units. So if it's not sealed don't bother with wireless charging.
I also switch it on and off, with the onboard switch. Then it does turn right off, not just go to sleep, means it doesn't need to be charged if it's a long time between sessions.

there are two 213BN versions

one With communication chip (for programming), this one has no leds

One without the chip this one has 3 leds.
One green led to show the device is on.
One blue led to show there a connection with a 5v powersource (usb).
One red led to show that the battery is charging (together with the blue led) if the battery is fully charged the red led goes off, the blue led remains on aslong as there is power on the usb port. If the power is disconnected, the blue led goes off and only the green led stays on. As long as the battery last offcourse.

ah and the 213BN without the chip has a USB-C port

At he moment I have only the 213bn without chip. To activate, i have to connect the battery :-) but the device will not start. I does not respond on the magnet switch or reset button. To start I have to give power on the usb port (charging) and then press the reset button. The green led is on and the esp works as intended. If the battery's BMS switch off the battery or if you press the reset button the green led goes off and the esp wil not start anymore. If I charge the battery again (blue and red are on) the green led stays off, esp is not working. The VBAT has the right voltage and the charging works. The only way to activate the esp is to charge the battery and to press the reset button. The the esp works as intended after that.I can't remember if the 213BN with the chip and the B74 has the same behavior? Is this a problem? Yes in case the esp is fully poured in epoxy, or in a sealed box, you can't press the reset button. So if the battery is empty, the esp cannot startup anymore :-(.

@Jan can you do something in the software (I don't think so but hope so)?

I only have the T5 BN213 with the normal micro USB version and no LEDs. But there is indeed another version with 3 LEDs and USB-C. (www.tinytronics.nl/nl/development-boards/microcontroller-boards/met-wi-fi/lilygo-ttgo-t5-v2.3.2-esp32-met-2.13-inch-e-paper-e-ink-display) This board has another schematic (T5 V2.3), but I can't figure out why it will not boot after low bat.
Can you measure the 3V3 and VBAT voltage when this happens (after charging, but before reset)? I saw that there is a LED connected to GPIO12, which is used in the sw as input.
The "normal" BN213 and B74 boot when the bat voltage is OK, no need to press RST.

Thanks Jan.
nothing changes after pressing reset (or connect the reset pin tot the gnd). Al voltages stay the same. Even the 3.3v on the 39 and reset pin.

Hmm little update I just did a test on a 213bn (no chip) alone. So just out of the box. No gps and no wireless charger connected (firmware 5.80) only connect the battery and the 213bn booted. I don't have a wireless charger (receiver) module at the moment so in can't test is with only the battery AND the wireless charger.
And yes. That's the one from tinytronics. They are the same as the ones form the lilygo store on Ali.

Well i found a doa usb - c wireless reciever. When the wireless receiver is plugged in the esp won't boot without pressing the reset button. It's the wireless receiver which trigger this behavior. ??

Hallo together,

I have design a simple CAD for the 85x58x33 housing. The idea is to use only the clear lid and replace the bulky bottom.
I have milled it from 8mm PMMA.
However in the waterproof box does fit all the standard components (2000mAh,BE-180, etc).
Not a miracle but the size is coming down to 85x58x19,5.

How can i add the step file?

Select to expand quote

rp6conrad said..

Floriansicard said..
Hello, I have a few questions. Why do we use a 2000mAh battery and not a 4000mAh? Is it because of the size? I don't really understand how to recover the tracks / how to stop / launch the gps. As for the gps, if I've understood correctly, I can use this one for greater precision (Beitian BK 280 GPS). As for charging, it's better to use wireless charging, but what type of micro usb is it? On aliexpress you can choose between micro usb A and micro usb B.
Thanks in advance for your clarifications :')

Size of battery is just a choice between size / weight / needed capacity. If you are planning for a 24 h record, go for the 4000 mAh. If you can charge between every session of 4h, 1000 mAh will do the job.
Recover the tracks is over Wifi. When switched on, the ESP tries to connect to your home network (settings in the config.txt file on the device). If not, it can act as a standalone Wifi AP, wher you can connect to with your device (tablet, phone, laptop...). Then you can download the tracks over Wifi.
Switching on is with 2s push or 2s activating the reed switch (magnet). Switching off exactly the same, 2s push or 2s activating the reed switch. "Off" is not really off, but the device goes in "deep sleep". Every 30 min, there is a wakeup, and the batt voltage is measured and displayed.
The Beitian BE series has the ublox M10 gps, optimized for low power. The BK series has the ublox M9 gps, optimized for high navigations rates (up to 20 Hz). The accuracy for doppler speed is the same for both devices.
20 Hz is really overkill for our purpose, so most of us use the Beitian BE @ 10 Hz or @ 5 Hz.
The wireless charging is usefull if you have a sealed case, or just for convenience. I guess micro USB A or B is the orientation of the connector. When the e-paper screen is facing to you, the flat side of the micro USB connector is on the downside.
Greetings, Jan.

Thanks for your answers and if I understand correctly, the difference between micro usb a and b is that one only charges and the other transfers data and charges.Can you send a link for the reed switch (magnet) because i don't find look like similair of your'sThis one work? (fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005006111533019.html?channel=twinner )