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Rolz said..Freezer said..rp6conrad said..Freezer said..After summer tests of the 3D printed case we came to the conclusion that a seal cannot keep water out of the case. After that we decided to use some bathroom silicone sealant to connect the lid with the case and it works well.
The 3D case is available on printables at
www.printables.com/model/320425-gps-case with special thanks to Bart, our junior surfbuddie, who did all the design. We had many revisions to complete it. It fits nicely to the upper arm. We made a flat circle on the inside for the wireless charger location. Let mee see if I can draft a build instruction for it. It requires some additional components to finish it and make it work.

@Freezer : Is the 3D printed case completely watertight on its own ? Which material is used (PLA / ABS ...) ? Special settings ?
Greetings, Jan.
I print with PLA at hight quality with 0.15 layer hight. But since 3D prints are never really water tight I use DD-lak on the inside to seal it completely. The plexiglass I attach with 3M Scotch 5952 VHB-tape what makes it water tight as well. I tried many seals, but the PLA material seems to be too soft to keep full pressure on the complete seal and I always saw it bending/deforming near the screws/inserts. I have tried 3 types of acryllic-seal (rubber, silicon and butyl). I had 2x problems with the rubber type. Looks like it cannot seal when the gaps are too small?!? So I use the butyl variant. It stays flexible and is easier to remove after reopening. Somehow I don't like the idea of pooring it with resin like flex does, but it makes it quite bullit proof...
I also tried PETG since it is harder and printed at higher temperatures. But I have to work on the print settings. I was not yet able to make crisp prints. But I managed to have 1 watertight one for my son. I will do some more experiments with PETG.
I use velcro straps from Trilancer and bicycle spokes to connect them to the case. The magnet can be stashed in the tip of the velcro strap.
Perhaps I should make a google doc, just as you did with the build of the electrical components.
whilst I wait for my internal parts to arrive that google doc would be awesome... there are those nut thread thinga-ma-jigs you have in the lid that I'd like to know how to search for those :)
Same with the strap and the pins...
Thanks heaps! :)
I constructed a list of things that I ordered (at Amazon):
www.amazon.nl/hz/wishlist/ls/17DD4LM2JI6WX?ref_=wl_share Perhaps, if there is another easy way to do this, please let me know. I'm also not sure if it is available in your location. Feel free to find any alternative at any other shop. Obviously, you don't need these amounts for your own 1-2 units but at least you know what I use.
Here a brief build instruction.
Push the inserts M3x5.7 into the lid with your hot soldering iron until it levels. You need 4 per lid.
Put the double coat 2k on the inside of the 3D printed case and lid. You only need a little bit, 9 gram resin and 3 gram hardner should be enough.
Once the lid is dried, cut the 3M 5952 tape such that it nicely fits the area where it should hold the plexiglass. The 2.56cm width helps to have little waste, but you only need about 12cm. Use the uncut edges at the opening for the plexiglass for nicer look. The side remains visible. When sticking the 4 pieces inside the lid make sure to push them firmly also to stick to each other to for a good water barrier. Keep the red tape on until you want to place the plexiglas.
The plexiglas can be laser cut with the Plexiglas.dxf from
www.printables.com/model/320425-gps-case/filesDon't forget to remove the protective layer when you stick them in the lid. Firmly press the plexiglass on the tape, remove all the air between tape and plexiglass.
Depending on your upper arm muscles you might need to shorten the velcro band to make a nice fit. Cut away the hard plastic at the end. Use a plyer to screw the spoke into the case mounting extension. It is a tight fit, so push hard while rotating. Once you have passed through 1 extension, insert the spoke though the velcro and then insert the spoke in the 2nd extension until it is firmly secured. Mind on what side you want the velcro to be fixated and ensure the anti-slip is on the inside. Redo the other spoke as well. The strap should go around this spoke to secure the strap. You can put the magnet in the tip of the velcro by remove some stitches, slide the magnet in and re-apply some stitches again to keep it in place. The magnet will be used to control the device.
Then insert the electronics. BN220 should be on top of the battery. Add some padding to fixate it and does not move or rattle. The wireless changer receiver should be below the screenholder, so stick it in the case. The ferro tape should keep the coil on the case. Add additional tape to secure it (if needed). put the screenholder in the case. Make sure it fits well. The coat on the inside might have made it too tight so remove excess coat. Insert the SDcard in the T5 and put the epaper screen on the holder. The sdcard (side) goes in first inside the case. Ensure the original wholes on the corners don't contain any soldering and are open.
This is the moment where you need to ensure all the programming, testing config-file on SDcard. Test the reed switches (again) and that the wireless charging is working. Once you're happy with the results running/cycling/driving around it is time to do the final waterproofving step. Apply butylkit or siliconekit in the slot of the lid. Enough to make a good seal. A tiny amount of excess material is good. Too much and it will become messy and enjoy cleaning up. Too little and the seal will not be good and you might get water inside. Use the screws to tighten the lid to the case. Don't overtight it. It might deform or crack the case.
I will make a document with some pictures for clarity. Good luck with the build.