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Samkyo said..
Hello,

I use the N/S or Duotone extender for RDM and SDM work really well on the standard universal version.
I did use the version with shock absorber and the surfbent was a pretty bad option. Due to geometry the surfbent creat a lot of torsion on the joint when the sail is laying on the water and if you add a nose dive with you with the hand on the boom you will break the metal attachment point for the joint. After that I do my first trial of winging with windsurf sail to get back to shore was really fun bud costly as the extender was dead

When I remember it I use a mechanical u-joint for foiling otherwise I use a tendon which isn't as easy, I've held the new Chinook hybrid joints but not sailed with them.
My thought is that the new Chinook joint is quite heavy but the tendon should last longer, it's significantly less bulky than a fully mechanical u-joint.
The tendon they use seems to be a bit shorter, I think to keep the overall height down, so I don't think you'll get as much articulation from the tendon itself which could be a problem if the mechanical joint isn't aligned with the direction it's trying to bend.

I'm hoping they will offer the top piece separately so I can upgrade one of my existing u-joints rather than having to buy one complete.

Guys, regarding g popping off a d then installing the mast base...anyone who windsurfe can easily do it.
Not rocket science or lifting compact cars.
You sit on your board, facing downwind.
Sail to one side.
Pull bottom of rig over your board.
LOOK at the pin lineup. Match with base.
BEND mastbase 90 degrees.
Insert alu/carbon tube.
Easy peasy.
Only an idiot tries this in 30 knot wind and 4' waves. In those conditions, sail to shore before adjusting.

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LeeD said..
Guys, regarding g popping off a d then installing the mast base...anyone who windsurfe can easily do it.
Not rocket science or lifting compact cars.
You sit on your board, facing downwind.
Sail to one side.
Pull bottom of rig over your board.
LOOK at the pin lineup. Match with base.
BEND mastbase 90 degrees.
Insert alu/carbon tube.
Easy peasy.
Only an idiot tries this in 30 knot wind and 4' waves. In those conditions, sail to shore before adjusting.

It's easy to adjust the downhaul without removing the mast base - float on your back in the water, wind the downhaul around your harness hook and push out against the rail of the board with your legs.
Simple, even in 30 kn winds in the ocean.
I often adjust downhaul a couple of times a session

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azymuth said..

LeeD said..
Guys, regarding g popping off a d then installing the mast base...anyone who windsurfe can easily do it.
Not rocket science or lifting compact cars.
You sit on your board, facing downwind.
Sail to one side.
Pull bottom of rig over your board.
LOOK at the pin lineup. Match with base.
BEND mastbase 90 degrees.
Insert alu/carbon tube.
Easy peasy.
Only an idiot tries this in 30 knot wind and 4' waves. In those conditions, sail to shore before adjusting.

It's easy to adjust the downhaul without removing the mast base - float on your back in the water, wind the downhaul around your harness hook and push out against the rail of the board with your legs.
Simple, even in 30 kn winds in the ocean.
I often adjust downhaul a couple of times a session

I often do similar with my wavesails, just leave it attached to the uj, but i just put my foot against the uj and use my bare hands! Dont like getting wet lol.

For the racing kit i use a powerXT

Once fully wet,downhauling becomes easy.
I wrap my DH line and stuff it inside the alu mast base.
Wave sailing, just ride to shore.

PS: I am liking this idea of on the water downhaul adjustments to match outhaul adjustments. Used it today to increase power.

Do you guys leave some room in the extension when you first rig so you can add downhaul on the water?

Foiling, no need to rig to the cleat. 2" is plenty.