Today is razzonaters birthday
It is compulsory to surf on the birthday no matter the forecast.
For ten years now ( this is the tenth in a row) the 8th of October has had waves wherever I find myself.
Todays forecast was looking really grim. Really really grim, the cameras this morning indicated terrible waves, I sighed got in my car and than proceeded to rock up too chest height peelers with three out, tubes turns and speed runs for two hours.
The guys in the water thanked me for having my birthday, I thanked them for being there.
Normally there is a million here when it looks anything like this, glassy walls and all
After 1 hour and 45 minutes there was a ten minute lull last wave was called and as I got changed and watched off another one did not come through whilst I was there.
that was it.