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Razzonater said..
The winter swells are gone and the metro banks as well.
goooood run real good run.
This winter I would also like to nominate the bodysurfer who surfed trigg all winter for an award.
He would appear on a similar pattern to me for half the winter, we never really spoke however he would often paddle out in the same rip or bank as me.
A couple of the larger days he took a couple big beatings like a man.
This went on for some time and I'm sure he got a couple good ones but I never seen them.
some time mid August on a big day and after seeing him in the water for a few months he took a right hand drainer, it threw as he dropped in and he made a good 3-5 seconds of barrel before coming out only to get destroyed by the end section.
The dude put in a lot of effort for that one, of course he probably got more but something between morbid curiosity and the entertainment offered by bodysurfing solid beachies kept me wanting to observe
The dude would have a little kids paddle kick board as well which looks like the ones the kids learn on in the pool which only added to the scenario.
Why??? I think he was just having fun, that's why we surf?
I think i have met the bloke you are talking about Razz, had a good chat with him over a coffee after we saw him out with us on a big ugly day.
He's a pretty good swimmer and knows the beaches really well, told me he was part of the scarbs life guards.
Really nice bloke who just froths on the beach and loves getting absolutely flogged chasing barrels, if you see him again say G'day