At the risk of a thread hijack..............All this talk of the "search" for "the board"....seems we are all on the same one..the search that it.
Frustrated with the small wave ability of my last board, I finally bit the bullet.
Tried a few differing shapes / boards from friends .... biggest learning 46 yrs of shaping and surfing talent out does 4yrs of learning to surf.
Sat down with Greg and discussed the options ... my height, weight and fitness and my willingness to be open.
Without the knowledge of years of surfing, I became more reliant on the custom shaper knowledge .... but a shaper that surfs every day.
What I got rocks ... have surfed it twice every day this week ... only fault I have with it is its ability to very late drops....more likely a user issue (Poor tradesmen blaming his tools). Very user friendly on take off (read stable) nice and quick and with smaller fins in very very loose)
6'4" x 21 x 2 3/4...shallow rocker on the entry..big flat section in the middle with slight tail rocker over a double concave to spiral V exit (Thruster setup) (photo of the board is not mine...it is a "5'10" version..but you can get the idea..Greg made a couple out of the conversation)