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chrispychru said...
obct what happened in those years to not want to surf? aand what made you go back to the real love off your life?
Roughly in the following order:
I lived in the western suburbs
We had no money
I wast too young to drive
Short boards came along and I hated everything about them, I still do, I can't stand looking at circus tricks and wiggly bum turns.
I got married
I got a mortgage
I had kids
I raised kids
I sitll had no money
I started to surf then busted my knee helping one of my kids move house
I got into buggies and wasted 10. Years
I had a knee op in 2009 and started again
And here I am.