Was out on Saturday morning at my local, everything was more than the forecast suggested. More frost, more snow, more swell, more size more power etc. the heater in the van was just about keeping it warm battling against the wind chill on top of the cliffs. I hadn't been out for a couple of weeks due to work and lack of swell so was determined to go out, Mrs N said she was going for a run along the cliffs so no excuses. It is always the case that when I go down the steps and get to the beach, what looks like moderate and sensible from the cliffs, looks terrifying and on the limit of what I am are comfortable with. To add to the dilemma, the guy that had been nailing it when I was looking down form the cliff, was walking up the beach towards me. I recognized him (Simon a local instructor), I think he sensed my trepidation and said he would paddle out with me. It's a canny trek to the channel we use to paddle out when it gets a bit bigger, we talked about stuff, recent trips to Portugal and Morocco, easing my nerves, then he asked about the Kanga (he is looking for a new board as he had snapped his no.1 the day before!) un-easing my nerves. We've paddled out at this point many times, it is where the backwash is channeled by two parts of the limestone reef/slab and pretty much takes you out like a motorway. We both looked at it, then looked at each other and commented that we had not seen it looking that rough before. It is always a bit intimidating here, with the cliffs towering over you, reefs either side only a few inches below the surface and a boiling cauldron in front. Paddling out together, side by side, when we are hit from both sides by freak waves, I was taken back to the beach, Simon taken on a weird Wurlitzer ride out the point, within seconds we were over 100m away from each other. Adrenaline pouring we eventually make it out and catch up, the sun breaks through, a double rainbow appears and all is tranquil and peaceful. We have a great couple of hours in some of the biggest conditions catching a few good waves each. My Garmin had us out for approx 2hrs, burnt 1,300 calories and HR mostly in the amber. The picture was taken by a local photographer on the beach, Chris Bell and the Garmin screen shots show where I was spun round on the way out. What a day!!

Napnap said..
Was out on Saturday morning at my local, everything was more than the forecast suggested. More frost, more snow, more swell, more size more power etc. the heater in the van was just about keeping it warm battling against the wind chill on top of the cliffs. I hadn't been out for a couple of weeks due to work and lack of swell so was determined to go out, Mrs N said she was going for a run along the cliffs so no excuses. It is always the case that when I go down the steps and get to the beach, what looks like moderate and sensible from the cliffs, looks terrifying and on the limit of what I am are comfortable with. To add to the dilemma, the guy that had been nailing it when I was looking down form the cliff, was walking up the beach towards me. I recognized him (Simon a local instructor), I think he sensed my trepidation and said he would paddle out with me. It's a canny trek to the channel we use to paddle out when it gets a bit bigger, we talked about stuff, recent trips to Portugal and Morocco, easing my nerves, then he asked about the Kanga (he is looking for a new board as he had snapped his no.1 the day before!) un-easing my nerves. We've paddled out at this point many times, it is where the backwash is channeled by two parts of the limestone reef/slab and pretty much takes you out like a motorway. We both looked at it, then looked at each other and commented that we had not seen it looking that rough before. It is always a bit intimidating here, with the cliffs towering over you, reefs either side only a few inches below the surface and a boiling cauldron in front. Paddling out together, side by side, when we are hit from both sides by freak waves, I was taken back to the beach, Simon taken on a weird Wurlitzer ride out the point, within seconds we were over 100m away from each other. Adrenaline pouring we eventually make it out and catch up, the sun breaks through, a double rainbow appears and all is tranquil and peaceful. We have a great couple of hours in some of the biggest conditions catching a few good waves each. My Garmin had us out for approx 2hrs, burnt 1,300 calories and HR mostly in the amber. The picture was taken by a local photographer on the beach, Chris Bell and the Garmin screen shots show where I was spun round on the way out. What a day!!

Saltburn looks absolutely epic this morning. I am super jealous

Enjoyed an early morning paddle out to...



...an empty outside lineup. Stand up paddle is the way to go.

hi tide said..
We were gifted with another session for Christmas day.
Yes, stand up paddle, it is the way to go.
Prone surfers were dog tired when they made it back to shore.

Wow! That looks perfect!! Merry, Merry

sls said..
Stayed local. Average conditions, had to make it fun for the new year.

A bit warm for penguins there

Happy feet can do anything

Revvin up the 9 foot revo on a lil' beachy at the local.
It's been a great week for it

drivethebus said..
Nice Brenno, how are you finding the board?

Steve.

Great fun mate.
We've been lucky enough to have waves every day for a week, so it's been getting a run twice a day. Plenty of water time to dial it in!
I'm still impressed how well it turns off the tail, as well as being great at catching ripples

Autumn surf coast beachy - smallish, but good quality

Been good fun at the local on the 9' revo.....

Talking about 9' Revolution. Last week in Tofino, BC, Canada. Dumpy sets at low tide in the early morning. My friend Bob FRP took the pictures.

Great waves this weekend, amazing how the GoPro flattens the waves, at least the pic I got gives some scale. Not my best wave had a couple of rippers but this was the longest and one I actually had the camera turned on for which is kinda handy?

Lizardman said..

DaveSandan said..
Great waves this weekend, amazing how the GoPro flattens the waves, at least the pic I got gives some scale. Not my best wave had a couple of rippers but this was the longest and one I actually had the camera turned on for which is kinda handy?

Is it at your regular spot Dave, where I chatted to you that day.

Yeah mate certainly is, I should really try somewhere else buts it's so much fun when it's on.

Long Beach, Tofino,BC with my friend FRP, sunny, mellow swell, no wind, sea lions surfing too.