Last week Thursday I took the day off to chase the hurricane swell. I drove 200 kms to the most sheltered spot from the strong onshores. The conditions were tough at 4-6 foot with 38 to 48 km/h onshore winds, turning to cross shore as the day progressed. The gusts of wind would blow me off the board, especially if I dared to turn sideways to try to position myself for a wave. I started out on the Hypernut, but that was a disaster, so I grabbed the Wedge.
Paddling was tough with the currents and the wind, and I snapped my leash in the morning. I am pretty sure that it got wrapped and a fin sliced through it. Luckily it was low tide, so the board ended up on the sand. Also it was lucky that I had a spare leash, and I can swim well enough, since there was nobody around at the time. I contemplated ditching the paddle, but ended up using the blade to body surf in on a few waves.
The sets were just close outs unfortunately and the smaller waves that would bowl were the best, but it was tough to hang around to catch those without being able to duck dive when the sets would come rolling in. I cannot pop myself over foam that big and powerful. I guess I did better than the few surfers who could not even paddle out.
I was out for around 5.5 hours with 2 breaks and, according to my Apple Watch, it's the most calories I've burned in a day, since I've bought it 14 months ago.
It was meant to start swinging offshore by lunch time, which would have cleaned it up and made it a bit more manageable, but unfortunately that only started happening in the late afternoon as I was about to leave and took the photo below.