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grimmosan said..
Hi I am little confused could do with a little assistance.
I'm researching. I'm not trying to be the best waterman nor am I looking for great surf performance from a 10'6 purchase. I think I speak for the majority when I say I'm looking for an easy to rid durable board mostly for flat water. I'd also like to take out in small waves on the odd occasion.
Talk about confusion, CNC cuts, molds, Vietnam, Thailand and China boards and hitting dogs ...all over my head mate?
But now since your posts I have read in the forums that almost all blanks are CNC cut before going to mold. Is this true? what is your experience regarding the making of these boards please as i'm seeing some contradictions?
I have also read that there are hand laminations that are lighter and stronger (depending on materials) than the average Naish. Is this true please?
I have also read it takes less than hour to copy any SUP shape put onto shaping software and cut on a cmc cutting machine. Is this true?
Who makes the boards and how are they made please? Looks like there are about 30 different boards with different constructions it's a bit hard to know whats what here. Surely not all the boards are the same? I have looked up this website at the boards you are referring to. You mention creases and cracks. what size and model/ series board are you referring to please and what is the year model as I have seen in my research that a brands products differ from year to year as far a quality/shape goes.
Hope you can assist as I'm not really feeling any the wiser after reading the forums for hours
Would really appreciate if someone could take the time to post or email (as I don't like to participate in public negative feedback) me some answers to the above questions as this site is not easy to navigate between all the obvious industry related territorial comments and innuendo and so forth. . Would love to minimise the research time and not get caught up in politics please.
Cheers and thanks
Hi grimmosan,
A moulded board means that the core (EPS ie. expanded poly-styrene) is blown out and expanded to the shape of the mould. This means that all of the beads of styrene foam are fully in tact and in their whole entirety.(a closed cellular structure) Now if we look at a machine cut board, we start with a block of foam and then start shaving away at it. The second we cut through that foam, we are compromising the strength of the foam core. Just like a honey comb structure, its super rigid until we start taking out some links then it all falls apart. Now we all know that strength from any board comes predominantly from its core. Glass definitely adds strength but also adds a lot of weight. As I said in my previous comment, to get the weight of a moulded board into a machine cut board, it is impossible to match the strength.
If you've done a bit of surfing I'm sure you would have come across Surftech surfboards, many of these are made in the same process.
How often do you see a used DHD or chilli or any other big name brand surfboard (epoxy or not) with tonnes of compressions in the deck. All the time. I take my brand new surfboards out and 3 surfs later and i have a scattering of compression. Is it practical to make an SUP in the same process as we make surfboard but expect different results?... No. So if you make a SUP the same way a surfboard is made, expect compressions, knees going through decks, fin boxes being pulled out, de-laminations and the rest.
Now when we talk about quality of fibreglass and resins...where does the list end. There are that many different types of resins and not only thicknesses of glass by huge differences in quality also. Imagine you go to get a tailored shirt, you can get tonnes of different materials, different thread counts, different stitching options, different treated materials, pre-streched and no pre-streched fabrics, different buttons etc. Obviously as you get into better quality stuff you pay more. SUP's are exactly the same. Boards costing more are using far better materials. Don't be fooled that a board costing half the price is the same quality as some of the better name brands mentioned when your paying far more.
Another huge difference of a better built board is re-enforcements in the board. Depending on the particular construction of board, but we often see things such as PVC layered re-enforcement in the decks, all big name brands re-enforce all extremities of the board such as handles, fins, vent plugs etc. This is done using a far higher density foam (often 'divinycell') to stop anything from rolling or moving where it shouldn't.
Then it extents the the externals of the boards, fins, paints, clear coats, UV coatings, deck drips and once again the list goes on. A billion different quality options. Just pay the extra and get the goods.
Im not even going to get started on shape. ha!
When was the last time you heard someone say a Great wall is better than a Toyota? Doesn't happen. Should never happen with SUP's either.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Marcel