dafish said..
Nice work, but I love your timber board better ;)

horey69 said..
Carbon Co Nang 100 Slingshot FSup
not sure how this will go kiting maybe need to have all ten toes hanging over the nose

horey69 said..
Chris,
I will move the mast to position B before I use it. The micro is set up with a carbon set up.
Now we just need wind from the NE or SE. In the meantime it's wing skating for me.

Jonesey32 said..






That setup should be awesome for the small swell you guys get up there. I've got the same setup, but haven't really given it a good go in the right conditions, because I always just go for the easy options and use my standard wing.

The front foot pressure actually isn't too bad. The last time I took the 84 out, I actually moved the mast back about a 1.5cm from normal (trying to compensate for the extra lift), but actually found I needed too much back foot pressure. It also holds speed surprisingly well for such a massive wing (over 2000cm2...).

When you take it out it, I would recommend leaving a screwdriver on the beach to let you do quick adjustments on the track position - and take a small kite!

I've actually got a photo of my setup on your board!

Brohan said..





I use the slingshot 76 foil with a 100cm board (kite) and have it in A position and love it. I thought the rear wing should be facing up though?

warwickl said..
I just use an old skim board for kite foiling that is low volume and was very cheap.
A friend made a board out of ply from Bunnings.
We are just every day guys so that may explain it.
But why spend big $ on a board when spending on the foil is way more beneficial?

Peahi said..






Interested to know how you went with a skimboard, I have a 100cm bean shaped I'm thinking of building in foil mounts, which look too easy to be true on a ply board.

Only issue (aside from small size for a beginner) is lack of rocker.

warwickl said..











Pictures are when I first set it up, I now have Moses foils.
My board has wood core which is ok for drilling however I use very big washers plus later made an aluminium plate to spread the load.
Now use a foot hook which is way better than a strap as it provides the benefits of a strap and freedom of strapless.
Works perfectly with no issues.

KBGhost said..







Couple more

Peahi said..






Cheers Warwick. I would have thought the foil might go further back, what is ideal placement on a 100cm board?

Don't log in here often but was surprised to see my first ever pocket foil board build in the thread. The carbon one 3rd picture down.
Build went as follows;
Found insulation foam on Swiss building site, relocated 1 block for testing purposes.
Made stencil form using balsa wood.
Pinned stencil to foam and cut out.
Wrapped in biaxial carbon first the another layer of normal carbon.
No vacuum.
Tooooo much epoxy.
Zero board making skills or knowledge.
Turned out the board had pin holes all through it and filled with water. Eventually got cut up to remove the mounting boxes. Those boxes were then put in an old shortened sup board to be used for wind winging.

The following photos are of my 3rd and 4th board (second board ended up in Germany I think).
Build went as follows;
Green EPS closed cell foam from carbon composites UK.
Cut with a Stanley knife.
Layered and epoxy glued.
Layed on a wood form for rocker and concave/convex.
Placed on a table whilst layered glue was still wet, vacuumed to desired shape.
Sanded and shaped.
Biaxial carbon vacuumed base.
Sanded shaped.
Normal carbon vacuumed.
Sanded and shaped.
Then repeated on top/deck.
Once complete I sanded the base to a mirror finish, 1200, 3000, then buffed.
Deck was left with peel ply finish for grip.
I didn't use vacuum bags but a large piece of latex double sided taped to a metal frame, C clamped to a table. Thus making it reusable. The vacuum table system belongs to a Longboard skateboard building business here in Zurich. (Fibretec.ch) if you're in West Aust. You can see their board builds at "livid skate cafe" in Scarborough.
Board with tracks 1.9 kg
Board with nut inserts (snowboard binding inserts) 1.3kg

I add a NSI stick on loop to attach a small yellow float cut from pool noodle just to make seeing the dark board easier.

They float well with my GONG Allvator and Project Cedrus foils.

Boards are now 3 years old and showing signs of wear but no issues.

Raleigh said..
Anyone ride a Axis Tray 94 and an Armstrong 311? Curious as to the difference in rigidity and recovery after touchdowns. Thoughts? Leaning Axis Tray due to costs but the 8 layers of carbon in the Armstrong and its unique (albeit longer) shape look nice.

Kamikuza said..







This looks similar: axisfoils.com/collections/all-boards/products/foam-31-foilboard

Bottom shape is more complex on the Armstrong, might be more suited to the surf foilers...

Tray is quite wide at the front, I had a 110 for a month and was surprised how forgiving it was -- so long as you didn't bury the nose. I've got a prototype board from Axis that looks a lot like the Foam 3'10 and it's pretty good for kiting, especially light wind, but you notice the extra weight...

Samuellae said..





What do people rekn about bottom shape versus rocker- for example, can having a vee bottom make up for less rocker? I'm thinking especially in terms of build simplicity with wood it could be easier to add material on the bottom at the nose to make some vee rather than bending or layering up to focus on getting 10cm of nose rocker. Also bonus that you could add rocker from any added material on the bottom to add to the nose lift.

Jimm said..
Hi Dafish and anyone else making Paulownia boards. Responding to a post you wrote ages ago where you made a paulownia board that was too thin. How thick do you think they need to be? What surface coating did you apply: fiberglass/epoxy? Epoxy only? Thanks