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bolocom said..

mikey100 said..
Am really enjoying the variety of opinions to this question; would appear that the difference is worthwhile in most cases. Am surprised by how small the majority are using.

Are we agreeing that up to -15l floats you well and lower -30 becomes hard work?

I am seeing this also. Around -10to -15 seems to be most people's go-to board.

I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

I would say that the board shape and track location has a bigger impact on how the board will ride. If you are jumping it makes sense to have a small board. If you are surfing waves then forward tracks and v tail is what you want. if you are racing then maybe rectangular shaped boards would do. just has to be narrow .

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Grantmac said..
I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

I would subscribe to this.
Most of the time when I loook around, most people run something in this range with quite a few people going a lot bigger (130 Lliter boards are not something I never encounter) and a very small number of people going considerably smaller.
It probably depends on how regularly spots deliver and how regular winds there are. Consistent winds every week will result in better skills and more specific needs.

So far at 85ish kilos I've ben happy with a 90 liter board from the very beginning (might have ben easier with a bigger board) to jumping flakas.

Stiil, the original question of this thread has had me puzzled for some time:
What difference apart from more difficult starting would I really feel with a smaller board and in what situations would it make my session more enjoyable or speed up my progression? I would guess mainly when jumping and spinning but I might be wrong.

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ZeeGerman said..

Grantmac said..
I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

I would subscribe to this.
Most of the time when I loook around, most people run something in this range with quite a few people going a lot bigger (130 Lliter boards are not something I never encounter) and a very small number of people going considerably smaller.
It probably depends on how regularly spots deliver and how regular winds there are. Consistent winds every week will result in better skills and more specific needs.

So far at 85ish kilos I've ben happy with a 90 liter board from the very beginning (might have ben easier with a bigger board) to jumping flakas.

Stiil, the original question of this thread has had me puzzled for some time:
What difference apart from more difficult starting would I really feel with a smaller board and in what situations would it make my session more enjoyable or speed up my progression? I would guess mainly when jumping and spinning but I might be wrong.

Oh . smaller board wins hands down in every conceivable measure, except starting . every. That is undeniable. End of story. Any justification of larger boards is either you arent good enough to use a proper sinker or you arr sensible enough not to try. or both i suppose.

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ZeeGerman said..

Grantmac said..
I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

I would subscribe to this.
Most of the time when I loook around, most people run something in this range with quite a few people going a lot bigger (130 Lliter boards are not something I never encounter) and a very small number of people going considerably smaller.
It probably depends on how regularly spots deliver and how regular winds there are. Consistent winds every week will result in better skills and more specific needs.

So far at 85ish kilos I've ben happy with a 90 liter board from the very beginning (might have ben easier with a bigger board) to jumping flakas.

Stiil, the original question of this thread has had me puzzled for some time:
What difference apart from more difficult starting would I really feel with a smaller board and in what situations would it make my session more enjoyable or speed up my progression? I would guess mainly when jumping and spinning but I might be wrong.

This is a question I have been noodling on. I am between 90 kilos in a swimsuit to way heavier with wetsuit and all the other accoutrements. I started on a 110l Naish Hover. Then an 80l Takoon. I also have a 130 liter Naish Hover inflatable. I have kept the two floatier boards for the light wind days. The 130 liter seems to foil quicker than the 110. Is extra extra volume more beneficial when trying to eke out a flight on a marginal day? I don't think I need them both. I am also considering selling them both and getting a skinny floaty Kalama style board. Again is +30 liters better than +10 for short field take off performance with that design?

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Grantmac said..
I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

I owned last winter an Fanatic Sky5.8x125l wich is for me a +25/+30board next to my 5.8x90l AK. Its great to be able to float on the Fanatic when water is just above zero and wind is very flucky on/off, but as long as there is a bit of wind to keep going I still prever my 90l. Because it is lighter it is more nimble and easier to pump and maneuvre.
My 56l is the other end of the spectrum: needs more and more constant wind otherwise I simply sink wich is no fun when air and water are just above zero (so I don,t agree with Eppo it is all about skills as conditions matter as well).

There is another dimension: depth! Most of the time I'm foiling in relatively shallow bay. If I use sinker, I'll be dragging my foil on bottom very often. That is one of the reasons my main board is 95 liters (I'm 90 kg dressed). BTW: I used same board on Maui and I don't see I'm missing anything by not using sinker.

Ok all who have contributed. Thank you. I am 75kg and happily flying around on my 130L Sky board, often doing 200+ gybes a session without touching the water. Often 8-12kts here. So I yesterday went out and bought a +10 (85L) 22 Sky board.
Am expecting the drop of 45L to be a frustration for a while, but probably a lot less then my learning to gybe journey. Looking forward to the increased manoeuvrability and the 2kg less to carry to the water.

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mikey100 said..
Ok all who have contributed. Thank you. I am 75kg and happily flying around on my 130L Sky board, often doing 200+ gybes a session without touching the water. Often 8-12kts here. So I yesterday went out and bought a +10 (85L) 22 Sky board.
Am expecting the drop of 45L to be a frustration for a while, but probably a lot less then my learning to gybe journey. Looking forward to the increased manoeuvrability and the 2kg less to carry to the water.

That's a big leap, but +10 is still fairly easy to manage once you get used to it, and it won't almost affect your low end.
I am sure you'll have a lot of fun with it and you won't feel the need for a smaller one for quite some time.
I stepped down in phases from huge newbie board of 120l to 100L to 75l (around my bodyweight) during a 60-days span winging daily in Brasil last year.
I stayed at 75L for around 4-5 months, then I went down to 55l, and I definitely noticed the improvement both In freeride and freestyle without sacrificing too much in terms of comfort. As I said before, I have tried going even smaller but didn't like the loss/gain trade-of, at least for my current level and the conditions I ride in.
I have worked as an instructor this year and I now find it harder riding with the bigger school boards than with my 55l :)
To me, in a very simplistic way, once you pass your newbie phase, anything between body weight and +15 is ok if you want to be comfortable in all conditions and learn any on-water maneuver (tacks, gybes, 360s etc). You can definitely jump with such board, but once you start going into freestyle tricks you'd want to consider a smaller board. Anything above +15 is just limiting your progression once you reach a certain point without adding too much, and anything below is for riders who want to progress even further keeping in mind that the more you go lower in volume the more you need skills/good conditions. Personal opinion, obviously.

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Seastudent said..

ZeeGerman said..

Grantmac said..
I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

I would subscribe to this.
Most of the time when I loook around, most people run something in this range with quite a few people going a lot bigger (130 Lliter boards are not something I never encounter) and a very small number of people going considerably smaller.
It probably depends on how regularly spots deliver and how regular winds there are. Consistent winds every week will result in better skills and more specific needs.

So far at 85ish kilos I've ben happy with a 90 liter board from the very beginning (might have ben easier with a bigger board) to jumping flakas.

Stiil, the original question of this thread has had me puzzled for some time:
What difference apart from more difficult starting would I really feel with a smaller board and in what situations would it make my session more enjoyable or speed up my progression? I would guess mainly when jumping and spinning but I might be wrong.

This is a question I have been noodling on. I am between 90 kilos in a swimsuit to way heavier with wetsuit and all the other accoutrements. I started on a 110l Naish Hover. Then an 80l Takoon. I also have a 130 liter Naish Hover inflatable. I have kept the two floatier boards for the light wind days. The 130 liter seems to foil quicker than the 110. Is extra extra volume more beneficial when trying to eke out a flight on a marginal day? I don't think I need them both. I am also considering selling them both and getting a skinny floaty Kalama style board. Again is +30 liters better than +10 for short field take off performance with that design?

I am 104 and have 2 e3 : 5,4 wing 104lt and 5,3 downwind 83lt. I use both in light wind days but different places and with different foils. Obviously the 104 is less of a workout to take off and that's what I would always use in messy places. The bottom hull design just works, but a free things to consider when getting the downwind style one: tracks are a bit further back compared to the wing one (which I find really dumb) and you might miss a little bit of feet leverage for longer spanned foils that you have with the wider ones . Having said this , you do get used to it and they are amazing taking off, very light and perfect for cranking hard carves

Another question about dropping board sizes- I know getting going is going to be a lot more difficult, and gybing should be tighter, but are foot switches on foil much more difficult or pretty much the same? Cheers.

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mindhoc said..

Seastudent said..

ZeeGerman said..

Grantmac said..
I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

I would subscribe to this.
Most of the time when I loook around, most people run something in this range with quite a few people going a lot bigger (130 Lliter boards are not something I never encounter) and a very small number of people going considerably smaller.
It probably depends on how regularly spots deliver and how regular winds there are. Consistent winds every week will result in better skills and more specific needs.

So far at 85ish kilos I've ben happy with a 90 liter board from the very beginning (might have ben easier with a bigger board) to jumping flakas.

Stiil, the original question of this thread has had me puzzled for some time:
What difference apart from more difficult starting would I really feel with a smaller board and in what situations would it make my session more enjoyable or speed up my progression? I would guess mainly when jumping and spinning but I might be wrong.

This is a question I have been noodling on. I am between 90 kilos in a swimsuit to way heavier with wetsuit and all the other accoutrements. I started on a 110l Naish Hover. Then an 80l Takoon. I also have a 130 liter Naish Hover inflatable. I have kept the two floatier boards for the light wind days. The 130 liter seems to foil quicker than the 110. Is extra extra volume more beneficial when trying to eke out a flight on a marginal day? I don't think I need them both. I am also considering selling them both and getting a skinny floaty Kalama style board. Again is +30 liters better than +10 for short field take off performance with that design?

I am 104 and have 2 e3 : 5,4 wing 104lt and 5,3 downwind 83lt. I use both in light wind days but different places and with different foils. Obviously the 104 is less of a workout to take off and that's what I would always use in messy places. The bottom hull design just works, but a free things to consider when getting the downwind style one: tracks are a bit further back compared to the wing one (which I find really dumb) and you might miss a little bit of feet leverage for longer spanned foils that you have with the wider ones . Having said this , you do get used to it and they are amazing taking off, very light and perfect for cranking hard carves

Awesome. Thanks.

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BritWinger said..
I'm actually going to get a hybrid-type DW board for dodgy days, knowing I can get it home safely if the wind drops.

It may be a growing trend...
This video is quite interesting in detailing the design of such a DW board, and how it may be a game changing for low wind practices, not only DW: (French, but you can enable English subtitles)
(This video is a promo for a brand I am unrelated to, but I guess applies to all these new DW boards)

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mikey100 said..
Another question about dropping board sizes- I know getting going is going to be a lot more difficult, and gybing should be tighter, but are foot switches on foil much more difficult or pretty much the same? Cheers.

Ok. Can give an uneducated answer to my own question. Got out for 3hrs in 10-12kts and flat water.
My 85 was great once I sorted out the mast position so that it gybed level. Was then making most with foot swaps.
Compared to the 130, the 85 was slightly harder to get started, made slightly tighter gybes and was slightly more difficult to foot swap.
2.4kg lighter so much easier to carry.
Super happy- wasn't the nightmare I was expecting.

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mikey100 said..

mikey100 said..
Another question about dropping board sizes- I know getting going is going to be a lot more difficult, and gybing should be tighter, but are foot switches on foil much more difficult or pretty much the same? Cheers.

Ok. Can give an uneducated answer to my own question. Got out for 3hrs in 10-12kts and flat water.
My 85 was great once I sorted out the mast position so that it gybed level. Was then making most with foot swaps.
Compared to the 130, the 85 was slightly harder to get started, made slightly tighter gybes and was slightly more difficult to foot swap.
2.4kg lighter so much easier to carry.
Super happy- wasn't the nightmare I was expecting.

After 95l I found 65l harder to start but not too much harder (for my 72 kg). Jibes were even easier, much less space for the wrong foot placement :) I do use straps and I believe that front straps help me in jibes - easier to find the right spot for my foot.
After riding 65l I find harder to jibe on my friend's 120l board.
I guess you will feel the same about your jibes after a few sessions.

Great thread! And this 82kg newbie of 38 sesssions--still can't jibe--now feels he's riding the Titantic on the Skywing 125. +43 hahahahah!

I have to believe that being on an inland fresh water lake with gusty winds plays a part in board size. Wind goes from 17mph to 5mph pretty quickly. We'll see what kind of progress I make this spring when the ice comes off the lake. Maybe step DOWN to a 90L hahahahah. If it makes jibing easier I'm all in!

Thanks

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Jeroensurf said..

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Grantmac said..

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I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

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I owned last winter an Fanatic Sky5.8x125l wich is for me a +25/+30board next to my 5.8x90l AK. Its great to be able to float on the Fanatic when water is just above zero and wind is very flucky on/off, but as long as there is a bit of wind to keep going I still prever my 90l. Because it is lighter it is more nimble and easier to pump and maneuvre.

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My 56l is the other end of the spectrum: needs more and more constant wind otherwise I simply sink wich is no fun when air and water are just above zero (so I don,t agree with Eppo it is all about skills as conditions matter as well).

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And age and leg strength

@Mikey100!Awesome! You are still +10 so even in gusty conditions the 85l floats you and in no time the 85 will be heaps more fun as the 6ft "boat".
I think if I would devine a small board it would be volume below bodyweight and the sinkers close to half your bodyweight.

@Marc5: a 90l still floats you so yeah why not.
I didnt stand all my jibes either when I switched down. For me going to a less wide tail made the footwork easier/ more apparent where to place my feet.

@Warwick: 48y old, but pretty strong legs (mountainbiker and we cycle in general a lot in the netherlands)

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Jeroensurf said..

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@Mikey100!Awesome! You are still +10 so even in gusty conditions the 85l floats you and in no time the 85 will be heaps more fun as the 6ft "boat".

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I think if I would devine a small board it would be volume below bodyweight and the sinkers close to half your bodyweight.

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@Marc5: a 90l still floats you so yeah why not.

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I didnt stand all my jibes either when I switched down. For me going to a less wide tail made the footwork easier/ more apparent where to place my feet.

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@Warwick: 48y old, but pretty strong legs (mountainbiker and we cycle in general a lot in the netherlands)

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Me 76 yo, 76kg and windwing 5 times a week on average 9kn to 30kn wind mostly lake conditions. Favourite foils are Axis ART 799 and 699 with 300p stab. Board is a 105l Fanatic TE. So need a bit of board volume and a gust to stand up from kneeling.

Second session (33km) on my 85L today in 12-16kts and flat water. Out of the hundreds of gybes (I foot swap every gybe) I only missed a handful. The 85 just looks n feels 'right' under me. I can't now imagine getting back on the 130L.

We did a bit of a board size breakdown at the shop a couple of months back. At 70 kg I've settled at around 60L for my all rounder with my prefer size 4'8-4'10 and 22" wide (boxy rails) or 23" (with chines). Can get going in a 13 knot gust with a 4m and fine in the strong stuff. Hard to beat a tiny board for wave riding but like many have said you wing defensively to avoid falling and waste heaps of energy getting going so you don't progress as quickly.

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Relapse said..
We did a bit of a board size breakdown at the shop a couple of months back. At 70 kg I've settled at around 60L for my all rounder with my prefer size 4'8-4'10 and 22" wide (boxy rails) or 23" (with chines). Can get going in a 13 knot gust with a 4m and fine in the strong stuff. Hard to beat a tiny board for wave riding but like many have said you wing defensively to avoid falling and waste heaps of energy getting going so you don't progress as quickly.

Your video was the one of the inputs that helped me decide on a +10 board as my second board. But I can't understate how important it was for me to get all my basic skills done on my +55 board. It was so forgiving and allowed me to practice hundreds of gybes/session on a comfortable platform. Am sure that's why my transition on to the 85 was so seamless and I just rode and gybed straight off.

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eppo said..

ZeeGerman said..

Grantmac said..
I know a lot of people in colder places running +10-20 boards all the time. They also don't generally post online.

I would subscribe to this.
Most of the time when I loook around, most people run something in this range with quite a few people going a lot bigger (130 Lliter boards are not something I never encounter) and a very small number of people going considerably smaller.
It probably depends on how regularly spots deliver and how regular winds there are. Consistent winds every week will result in better skills and more specific needs.

So far at 85ish kilos I've ben happy with a 90 liter board from the very beginning (might have ben easier with a bigger board) to jumping flakas.

Stiil, the original question of this thread has had me puzzled for some time:
What difference apart from more difficult starting would I really feel with a smaller board and in what situations would it make my session more enjoyable or speed up my progression? I would guess mainly when jumping and spinning but I might be wrong.

Oh . smaller board wins hands down in every conceivable measure, except starting . every. That is undeniable. End of story. Any justification of larger boards is either you arent good enough to use a proper sinker or you arr sensible enough not to try. or both i suppose.

Age and or injury has driven me back to a bigger board. Torn meniscus meant no knee starts. The 125 L Naish S26 has allowed me to keep foiling with a sturdy knee brace.
I injured playing basketball and tried foiling too early and made it worse.
Had surgery yesterday, prefer my 110 L S26 and was thinking of going -10 prior to injury.

Mikey, congrats on your success with the new smaller Sky Wing, especially jibing. What would you say are the things that helped you most on your jibe journey? I hope I can follow in your footsteps!

Marc (making 1 jibe in 25)

So in summary, a smaller board can make a significant improvement for the physically capable but not for the less fortunate who require larger boards to enjoy the fun.?

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marc5 said..
Mikey, congrats on your success with the new smaller Sky Wing, especially jibing. What would you say are the things that helped you most on your jibe journey? I hope I can follow in your footsteps!

Marc (making 1 jibe in 25)

Ok. I have probably been one of the slowest learners in my area. So, my insights when examined by the experts, are probably going to be shot down.
But, in a couple of weeks I have went from making a gybe to taxi to take off about 20% of the time to now, making 95%+ with foot switches up on foil. These things worked for me. Maybe something here might be of help for you.
My thoughts-
1. Have a board that is big enough to float well and get going easily. This saved a lot of energy so you can practice longer each session. It also is slower n smoother to react.
2. Have a big foil to learn on as it lifts quickly and reacts slowly. It is very forgiving in direction changes. Stay on it till you can gybe consistently. Again, allows you to practice longer each session.
3. Have experienced wingers have a ride on your board. Their advice as to mast position, shimming etc will make sure you are riding the optimal setup of your gear.
4. 12-15kts and flat water are the 'magic pill' in learning; search for them.
5. If wearing boots, try bare feet. (I sail a rocky, coral bottom so keep boots on till out in deep water, then remove n shove down shirt. Put on before coming in.) The fine foot movements bare-footed make fine adjustments of stance easy.
6. When gybing, get your front forearm and elbow out of the way so you have a 100% clear view in front of you.
7. When gybing, front hand is palm UP; this makes the spinning of the wing above your head comfortable and easy.
8. When gybing, stay over the board with hips facing front and initiate turn from the ankles, bending the knees and pressing with the toes and swinging hips into the turn. . I was falling inward on my turns as I was trying to carve as I would a surfboard. Trouble was, I was leaning further in than the centrifugal force being generated to keep me pressed against the board.
9. TURN THE BOARD, don't be gentle and let it turn you. 10. Practice gybing. Some days I had over 300 attempts, with only 50-100m straight sailing between.
Hopefully someone can take something above to help them on their journey.

Great thread and been chatting to the lads heaps about it . You really need to break this up or down , Flat water ( lawn mowing ) , light wind , jumping , waves & downwind. No doubt the swing weight & jump height of a small board will always win once up..... But here's the conundrum. Too shallow to start on a sinker , wind shadow in big waves to get going ( you get pounded) , can't stand on the board when you sail into a wind shadow on a DW or rain kills the wind . Do you ride strapped or unstrapped ? Low wind starts.

First up I don't jump and ride unstrapped so my board of choice is a 5-5 x 105 L Fanatic . I can still up haul on it , fast start in the impact Zone in waves , great on a DW and chug home standing if the breeze drops ( I'm 90kg). Easy low wind starts when mowing the lawn and I'm never the last person to come in when the wind drops. My whole drive and foil genre is to go as small and fast as I can go with foils and boards , no longer the case on the ding , (prone yes) but not on the ding . It's too often too shallow to start if your board doesn't float you. Wind shadow in close in waves , you need more wind to start than what you actually need to sail once up . You get caught offshore miles out to sea sitting on your butt and you miss that one gust of wind to get going because you can't stand on your board.

I'm more an ocean guy and have paid the price on some long Downwind / Deadwinds sometimes it's like playing the pokies , don't know what you'll get a El Nino or La Nina weather effect. Notwithstanding all the above , I'll loose just a little bit in performance riding a 5-5 compared to a 4-9 for a massive gain in stability, fun & safety . All IMHO

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mikey100 said..

marc5 said..
Mikey, congrats on your success with the new smaller Sky Wing, especially jibing. What would you say are the things that helped you most on your jibe journey? I hope I can follow in your footsteps!

Marc (making 1 jibe in 25)

Ok. I have probably been one of the slowest learners in my area. So, my insights when examined by the experts, are probably going to be shot down.
But, in a couple of weeks I have went from making a gybe to taxi to take off about 20% of the time to now, making 95%+ with foot switches up on foil. These things worked for me. Maybe something here might be of help for you.
My thoughts-
1. Have a board that is big enough to float well and get going easily. This saved a lot of energy so you can practice longer each session. It also is slower n smoother to react.
2. Have a big foil to learn on as it lifts quickly and reacts slowly. It is very forgiving in direction changes. Stay on it till you can gybe consistently. Again, allows you to practice longer each session.
3. Have experienced wingers have a ride on your board. Their advice as to mast position, shimming etc will make sure you are riding the optimal setup of your gear.
4. 12-15kts and flat water are the 'magic pill' in learning; search for them.
5. If wearing boots, try bare feet. (I sail a rocky, coral bottom so keep boots on till out in deep water, then remove n shove down shirt. Put on before coming in.) The fine foot movements bare-footed make fine adjustments of stance easy.
6. When gybing, get your front forearm and elbow out of the way so you have a 100% clear view in front of you.
7. When gybing, front hand is palm UP; this makes the spinning of the wing above your head comfortable and easy.
8. When gybing, stay over the board with hips facing front and initiate turn from the ankles, bending the knees and pressing with the toes and swinging hips into the turn. . I was falling inward on my turns as I was trying to carve as I would a surfboard. Trouble was, I was leaning further in than the centrifugal force being generated to keep me pressed against the board.
9. TURN THE BOARD, don't be gentle and let it turn you. 10. Practice gybing. Some days I had over 300 attempts, with only 50-100m straight sailing between.
Hopefully someone can take something above to help them on their journey.

All good points, I would add the following tips regarding the wing handling.
1) when entering the gybe keep the front head straight above your head (just a slight angle in front of you).
2) let go of the back hand and do not move the front end while you start going downwind, the wing will start turning on its own
3) when going downwind, without moving your front hand and arm, place your former back hand on top of your front hand, then let go the former front hand. The point here is to switch front hand without having the wing moving in front or behind you.
4) after that, you keep turning and place the former front hand on the back handle. If you did correctly point 3, you will find very easy to get to the back handle without having to move the wing. Always remember that it's the back handle that reaches your hand, not the other way around. By that I mean that if your back handle has moved too far to reach, then you need to move the wing with your front hand in order to bring the handle closer to you. What you don't want to do is leaning forward with your whole body to reach for the back handle, this will put you off balance and you will fall.
It's easier to show than to describe it, but hopefully it makes sense.
I strongly encourage practicing this on the beach by walking downwind, as if constantly gybing, so that wing handling becomes natural and the focus can be on the board while trying it on the water.

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mitxval said..
All good points, I would add the following tips regarding the wing handling.
1) when entering the gybe keep the front head straight above your head (just a slight angle in front of you).
2) let go of the back hand and do not move the front end while you start going downwind, the wing will start turning on its own
3) when going downwind, without moving your front hand and arm, place your former back hand on top of your front hand, then let go the former front hand. The point here is to switch front hand without having the wing moving in front or behind you.
4) after that, you keep turning and place the former front hand on the back handle. If you did correctly point 3, you will find very easy to get to the back handle without having to move the wing. Always remember that it's the back handle that reaches your hand, not the other way around. By that I mean that if your back handle has moved too far to reach, then you need to move the wing with your front hand in order to bring the handle closer to you. What you don't want to do is leaning forward with your whole body to reach for the back handle, this will put you off balance and you will fall.
It's easier to show than to describe it, but hopefully it makes sense.
I strongly encourage practicing this on the beach by walking downwind, as if constantly gybing, so that wing handling becomes natural and the focus can be on the board while trying it on the water.

I often see people hang onto the wing for too long with both hands when already going downwind. The trick is to let go early enough, and continue turning just the foil, instead of letting the wing pull you through the turn. Just illustrating your good points with a clip where I film the progress of a student who was already quite comfortably nailing the jibes where he stops completely, but at that time he hadn't made one with fully foiling. I deliberately make all the movements in my jibes very slowly, for teaching purposes, and I would add one key moment that I think is helpful. Keep both hands extended, in front of you - that helps to keep the weight distribution the same throughout the turn.