col5555 said..
>>> I was after a guide to qantity. Hate wasting resin. >>>

I'm with you there, I've made a "Heath Robinson" 10:1 lever system for my scales so I can weigh down to 0.1 grams, so I can now mix 10s of grams accurately enough.

Yoyo has just bought himself a couple of cheap chinese scales on line, a coarse one with 1.0gm resolution and a fine one with 0.01 grams resolution. he can now mix grams with accuracy.

Because epoxy is so slow setting it's quite feasible to mix less than you need, then for the final batch you have a much better idea of what's needed for the remainder.

col5555 said...
RIDER - Your 1 cup resin to 1.5 cup q cell mix, is that how much you used to filler coat the bottom ?
I have a repair to do so trying to get an idea of how much to mix up

Yes col 200ml of resin and 300 ml of qcell covers the whole bottom and half the rails. Sorry for my late reply.

R1DER said...

bigdaz said...
I would be interested to hear how much it weighs now, Cheers.

I'm not sure, I basically just replaced the material I have removed with similar material. The original PVC was only 3 mm think I used 5 mm replacement. Original carbon Kevlar was 6oz but replaced with 2 x 4 oz. I'll weigh the board and let you know as I have an identical one one I can weigh and compare.

Original board plus fins plus strap plus 2 bolt Chinook base 7.3 kg same repaired board plus straps, fins and 2 bolt base plate 7.65kg so its 350gm heavier a bit disappointing i was hoping for less of an increase but I can live with it.

Great thread Mike. Thoroughly entertaining.
And the tangent to the starboard was gripping.

This is my next project, maybe.
My current 64cm wide wave board doesn't get me planing much earlier than my recent chunky 60cm wide board that has a bit flatter rocker.
So I want to glue some temporary foam/pvc onto the bottom (15mm at the tail )to reduce the tail kick, it will basically follow the line of the spirit level in the below pic.




I'll try out the board, then I want to add foam to the rails to widen the tail by about 4cm. I've used this board in over 30 knts with 4.2m and it went surprisingly well with the current tail width.
If my experiment works and it sails OK planes earliercand still turns well, then I'll strip off all the new foam mods plus the carbon and glass down to the original PVC, rebuild the tail up with PVC and reglass. I'll have to rip out all the boxes as if I leave them in they would sit about 10mm below the new bottom. The pic below shows how far down the boxes will be if I add more foam.




This was my plan until recently someone said they would like to purchase the board as is.....
Not sure what to do now? Sell my current board and build a new one ( more work and take longer to do) that would be lighter with out any mods yet not know exactly how it would go as I wouldn't have done any experimental mods and test runs. I do like surprise's and making boards. Either way I'm not fussed.

R1DER said..






Finished including the fins I reshaped and refoiled earlier in the thread ( all fins parallel I haven't adjusted the bases for tow in ....... Yet! )

R1DER said..

R1DER said...

bigdaz said...
I would be interested to hear how much it weighs now, Cheers.

I'm not sure, I basically just replaced the material I have removed with similar material. The original PVC was only 3 mm think I used 5 mm replacement. Original carbon Kevlar was 6oz but replaced with 2 x 4 oz. I'll weigh the board and let you know as I have an identical one one I can weigh and compare.

Original board plus fins plus strap plus 2 bolt Chinook base 7.3 kg same repaired board plus straps, fins and 2 bolt base plate 7.65kg so its 350gm heavier a bit disappointing i was hoping for less of an increase but I can live with it.

Thanks Rider, I think you did well with only a slight increase in weight, great work.

OK last bike pics I promise. Finished my bike mods so now its back to boards.
How the bike Electra Mulholland 3i originally looked from website.




Now after new forks new head stem new handlebars new seat new front 26" wheel and tyre new 24" rear wheel and tyre.

A big thanks to Mike for sharing all the info.

I've started a thread about a project to resurrect a board snapped in half. It's on Seabreeze Windsurfing Tasmania.
"Relic Repair" It's a training project before I build a board.
Here is my version of Mikes Vacum Pump design, made all the easier with a proven design; Fridge compressor out of a garden variety domestic fridge. I've used Pneumatic push fittings and hose. The fittings allow tool free fitting, they can be dismantled easily and provide a perfect seal. I opted for a kPa gauge because I'm a diver and relate better to ATM equivalents. A check (one way valve) added to slow loss of vacum if the compressor fails (I'll have a "Hot Spare").. Inexpensive insurance given the cost of the materials for a project.
The PVC 100mm tube is a vacum chamber to catch any resin vapour that might clagg the system. (The lid had to be glued because it refused to seal).. I heard of a disaster with a system that pulled resin back through destroying an expensive set up and a ruined project.
The bag coupler is a marine skin fitting with nylon and neoprene washers.
The only problem encountered was the oiler to prevent seizure of compressor (Tin Can). On the first attempt engine oil was used, which made the compressor stall when started from cold. I figured oil was too low viscosity. I purged the compressor and made a mix of CRC and auto trans fluid which works better.
The system will pull a vacum of -100kPa maximum
Cost was about $150 and a six pack of beer (Fridge Compressor) It can be done a lot cheaper without my extravagance of pneumatic fittings. An overnight test was successful.
Once I've built an oven to aid curing I'll lay-up the project. (My shed is on the shady side of the house and is not warm enough for curing epoxy) Besides Tassie is freezing all the time so no one would ever want to come here
Images are taken at a top secret,secure location. Guarded by a man eating guard dog.








.

Could you put up a list of materials for the skin fitting, valve etc etc and where you sourced them from.

R1DER

GREAT information on this thread. I will use some of your tips on my board project.

the toe in discussion or lack of I understand, is the other forum Boards ?

FWIW I use on Tri or forward quads 1.85, I also mostly use asymettrical fins. Rear quads are parallel .
at times I feel little to no difference, others a lot of feel.
my mate uses quite a lot of toe, experimenting with fin twist and several manner of inside foil shaping.
he has a fin company, and is a NASA scientist .

no intent to start a toein fin discussion, just wondered.

forceten said...
R1DER

GREAT information on this thread. I will use some of your tips on my board project.

the toe in discussion or lack of I understand, is the other forum Boards ?

FWIW I use on Tri or forward quads 1.85, I also mostly use asymettrical fins. Rear quads are parallel .
at times I feel little to no difference, others a lot of feel.
my mate uses quite a lot of toe, experimenting with fin twist and several manner of inside foil shaping.
he has a fin company, and is a NASA scientist .

no intent to start a toein fin discussion, just wondered.

On the boards forum yes I given my opinion on tow in from my tow in experiment's. On thrusters I agree front fin tow in is good, but for quads if the front fin tow in angle is greater than the rear fin tow in angle I found this to give the worst turning configuration, which is why I can't work out why companies bring out 5 fin quad thruster option boards. The best front fin angles for thrusters doesn't work as well for quads and vice versa, parallel would work for both but wouldn't give you the very best performance. I guess supplying different angled in front fins for quads and different angled front fins for thrusters into parallel boxes would then give the customer the best options for choosing to use a 5 fin box board as a quad or thruster.

Good! Me too.

Went to the opening of the new "Revolution Boardsports" store.
4, 6 Leeway Court, Osborne Park

I've also been looking at one of my other wave rocker lines I use and have adjusted this with a tad more tail kick and flattened it out a few mm in the guts. I like to tweak my rockers a few mm . to see if I can make some improvements. Most of the time yes occasionally no, then its back to the pre adjusted rocker and try again. So on this one I basically sanded some 3mm thick MDF to make a template for my router to cut, I then screwed this to an old jig that I wasn't happy with and won't use again. I then cut out my new rocker jig.







I'm not sure which one to start first, I really want to do the wave one but im loving my current board. The freestyle wave one makes more sense itll give me more time on the water in poor conditions.

PS edit
It didn't all go to plan half way through the bearing that sits and follows my jig came off my cheap made in china eBay router bit. Which cut a big dent in my jig. Had a spare router bit but had to start all over again.