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Sandman1221 said..
Good to hear, debating if I want to add more grip to areas I painted on my board, kinda border line, and actually like it less grippy when I have to slide my foot across the deck to setup for a gybe.

Whose posts is he reading? I thought he blocked everyone?

I have an epoxy + sugar board too, best grip ever, does shred skin. Sanded it down. Yellowed but whatever at this point.

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Mark _australia said..
I've used Six10 rolled out thin, and sand sprinkled on.
Well, I heard you could.

Not sand , crushed walnut shells .

Nah, too tame, pinch a used bed of nails from an Indian swami and stick that on.

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decrepit said..
Nah, too tame, pinch a used bed of nails from an Indian swami and stick that on.

Yeah, that way you can do away with footstraps as well. No need for them when your feet are nailed to the board.

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wsurfn said..
Wow! That you all. My dealer is baffled that it turnout so slick. He is going to send me another can. I am going to scrub the surface with a stiff brush and clean it detergent and water. I am going to just apply 1-2 coats and see if I can get some real foot grip. I shook the can well last time, but I will go nuts this round. If this fails, I will sand and try UV clear resin and acrylic dust.

If it sat too long maybe the dust/grit clumped in the can? And Rustoleum Enamel spray can clear coat does not yellow, but it does take 7 days to cure before exposing to water.

Just out of curiosity. Why would you use an enamel paint that's not designed for marine purposes that takes 7 days to cure when you can use 2 pack polyurethane or clear laminating resin that takes a few hours to dry and is designed for marine purposes ?

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Mark _australia said..
I've tested my surfboard clear epoxy by putting it on a board in the sun. In the few junk boards I have laying around in the sun, after almost two years I forget which board and can't see it, so yeah its fine.

As an aside has anyone used Norglass nonslip powder? I want to know how it compares to Intergrip for particle size

I've used norglass powder and found the particle size varies and is inconsistent. There is to many big chunks in it. It's possible you could grind it down with a mortar and pestle maybe or sift it with something with fine mesh. I don't think you would like the finish as it comes straight out of the packaging. I have never used intergrip or any other acrylic powder, just the norglass a few times and then went back to UV stable and castor sugar as I can achieve a much more consistent and grippy finish that way, just more visible whereas the powder more factory like and almost invisible once you finish over it with clear P/U

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Mr Hooper said..
Just out of curiosity. Why would you use an enamel paint that's not designed for marine purposes that takes 7 days to cure when you can use 2 pack polyurethane or clear laminating resin that takes a few hours to dry and is designed for marine purposes ?

Its obvious , it's for people that need to run in a bathroom fan .

I used to race Hobie cats. There was one team that would do the epoxy and brown sugar method. They would lightly sand it then pour hot water over it to dissolve sugar leaving craters. Fine if you had booties on but shredded skin if you feel on it!
I have seen various 3M non skid tapes used in areas on sailing boats. Might not be resistant enough for windsurfers though. I used it once and it peeled the paint off when we removed it, so it sticks well.

I've used the Monster can spray for a plastic boat and a small patch on a second hand board.
Seemed to work ok, haven't got the boat anymore and got a newer board.

Then mate's sons board (fanatic) was slippery as. Used polyester waxed laminating resin and castor sugar.
I remember sugar being way too course and takes skin off unless you wet sanded the harsh edge off.

I used to have a Warren Thompson custom board and I remember when I picked it up he said he had done the deck grip with salt but only had iodised so it had discoloured a little bit. Was a great board last century. I guess salt is a little smaller grain size so might not have been so abrasive.

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515 said..
I've used the Monster can spray for a plastic boat and a small patch on a second hand board.
Seemed to work ok, haven't got the boat anymore and got a newer board.

Then mate's sons board (fanatic) was slippery as. Used polyester waxed laminating resin and castor sugar.
I remember sugar being way too course and takes skin off unless you wet sanded the harsh edge off.

Interestingly, I found waxed polyester resin not sticky enough or too viscous. The sugar just sat on the surface and didn't make the craters needed for good traction.

I did a board with monster spray too, was disappointed on first use of it as the deck seemed even more slippery, but now it's great, maybe it just needs time to settle in.

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Sandman1221 said..

wsurfn said..
Wow! That you all. My dealer is baffled that it turnout so slick. He is going to send me another can. I am going to scrub the surface with a stiff brush and clean it detergent and water. I am going to just apply 1-2 coats and see if I can get some real foot grip. I shook the can well last time, but I will go nuts this round. If this fails, I will sand and try UV clear resin and acrylic dust.

If it sat too long maybe the dust/grit clumped in the can? And Rustoleum Enamel spray can clear coat does not yellow, but it does take 7 days to cure before exposing to water.

Ignore Stupidman1221 I think he comes here to stir the pot by, posting unhelpful advice.

My new board is starting to slip a bit. May go with stripes of non skid, unsure still. Maybe a mix of things.
Used clear coat because it was available locally and haven't needed any epoxy for anything other than tiny repairs.