I have a Flikka custom freestyle board with a nice paint job. The board is still going strong after 177 sessions. The only issue was the deck traction was starting to wear off. Only a problem with old school moves like backwind and donkey jibes. Reluctant to sand through the deck paint, a good shop owner recommended Monster Traction Paint. It comes in a spray can, goes on easy, and really looked beautiful, and felt nice (abrasive, but not bad) to the touch. I was stoked, until I went sailing. The deck was slick as a pig despite its slightly abrasive feel to touch. I could barely jibe, and had to use the mast foot and foot pads to get any grip to get on a plane. It ruined a perfect couple of days of wind.

Any suggestions on how to proceed to fix this?

Interesting. I found that monster traction paint worked real well. Never had any luck with re-deck

clear coat and while wet sprinkle on acrylic grip grit, never done it, but people here have. Just make sure clear coat type is compatible with monster paint.

Best to ignore any advice from Sandman.

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Mr Hooper said..
Best to ignore any advice from Sandman.

Why?
Just because he is giving advice about something he knows nothing about.

No, listen closely to his advice,
then do the opposite.

How did you prep? Photos?

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Sandman1221 said..
clear coat and while wet sprinkle on acrylic grip grit, never done it, but people here have. Just make sure clear coat type is compatible with monster paint.

just search for "clear anti slip paint additive", product will tell you how to use it, can add to acrylic paint, or sprinkle on a heavy coat of clear coat while still wet and see, could always clear coat one more time if too grippy.

here is one for bare foot grip
www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/concrete-prep-and-accessories/rustoleum-anti-skid-additive/

No !!!
If you have no experience with what you're talking about it's best to say nothing.
You are not helping anyone by posting random products you have no experience with.

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Mr Hooper said..
No !!!
If you have no experience with what you're talking about it's best to say nothing.
You are not helping anyone by posting random products you have no experience with.

Mr Hooper what is your magic mixture?

I have tried:
1. epoxy + granulated sugar.
2. 2 part car lacquer with acrylic dust (from spray gun)
3. Epoxy and peel ply
4. yacht deck grip
5. Sanded rohacell + 2 part car lacquer (from spray gun)
6. surfboard foam + 2 part car lacquer (from spray gun)

Of all of those the only one to last was epoxy and sugar. Tears chunks out your foot for years. Goes yellow though.

Oh, if possible use an enamel clear coat (if compatible with monster traction), the enamel cures over 7 days and is very durable compared to a lacquer clear coat. I painted over some black areas on my board with white enamel paint, top coated with enamel clear coat after 3 days, and it is holding up good with no yellowing. Just need to leave in a well vented space for the cure, since it off gases. I left in the garage for a few days, then moved to a bathroom with the door closed, AC supply vent closed, and vent fan running 24/7.

I've successfully followed the Board Lady's advice of UV stable epoxy and acrylic dust a couple of times. The UV stable epoxy doesn't yellow and the dust provides grip but doesn't rip your skin off.

I believe sugar grip to be the best , but you have to very lightly sand with 600 wet and dry , then it is a perfect everlasting grip . If you don't , its like a cheese grater and makes shark attracting blood .

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Sandman1221 said..
Oh, if possible use an enamel clear coat (if compatible with monster traction), the enamel cures over 7 days and is very durable compared to a lacquer clear coat. I painted over some black areas on my board with white enamel paint, top coated with enamel clear coat after 3 days, and it is holding up good with no yellowing. Just need to leave in a well vented space for the cure, since it off gases. I left in the garage for a few days, then moved to a bathroom with the door closed, AC supply vent closed, and vent fan running 24/7.

Gold.

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John340 said..
I've successfully followed the Board Lady's advice of UV stable epoxy and acrylic dust a couple of times. The UV stable epoxy doesn't yellow and the dust provides grip but doesn't rip your skin off.

Yeah, just read her wright up on it, coat board with epoxy then dust with fine acrylic non skid, let epoxy cure and remove excess non skid. So similar to what I said except with epoxy instead of spray can enamel clear coat, which is easier and very durable but certainly not as durable as two part epoxy. Though like 2 part epoxy, enamel paint does cure to form a very hard coat, like with car paint.

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John340 said..
I've successfully followed the Board Lady's advice of UV stable epoxy and acrylic dust a couple of times. The UV stable epoxy doesn't yellow and the dust provides grip but doesn't rip your skin off.

UV stable epoxy still yellows and goes brittle in time.

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Overner said..

John340 said..
I've successfully followed the Board Lady's advice of UV stable epoxy and acrylic dust a couple of times. The UV stable epoxy doesn't yellow and the dust provides grip but doesn't rip your skin off.

UV stable epoxy still yellows and goes brittle in time.

This has not been my experience. Nor is it the board lady's experience.

boardlady.com/nonskid.htm

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John340 said..

Overner said..

John340 said..
I've successfully followed the Board Lady's advice of UV stable epoxy and acrylic dust a couple of times. The UV stable epoxy doesn't yellow and the dust provides grip but doesn't rip your skin off.

UV stable epoxy still yellows and goes brittle in time.

This has not been my experience. Nor is it the board lady's experience.

boardlady.com/nonskid.htm

Me neeva . Uv stable resin lasts for years . Of normal use . Just this week I saw a cool v,dub with a surfboard bolted to the roof racks. It was a looks thing . That would yellow .

I've tested my surfboard clear epoxy by putting it on a board in the sun. In the few junk boards I have laying around in the sun, after almost two years I forget which board and can't see it, so yeah its fine.

As an aside has anyone used Norglass nonslip powder? I want to know how it compares to Intergrip for particle size

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Overner said..

John340 said..
I've successfully followed the Board Lady's advice of UV stable epoxy and acrylic dust a couple of times. The UV stable epoxy doesn't yellow and the dust provides grip but doesn't rip your skin off.

UV stable epoxy still yellows and goes brittle in time.

If you own a board long enough to see the UV resin go yellow, then you're not using the board enough, assuming you're not silly enough to be storing it in the sun.

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Subsonic said..

Overner said..

John340 said..
I've successfully followed the Board Lady's advice of UV stable epoxy and acrylic dust a couple of times. The UV stable epoxy doesn't yellow and the dust provides grip but doesn't rip your skin off.

UV stable epoxy still yellows and goes brittle in time.

If you own a board long enough to see the UV resin go yellow, then you're not using the board enough, assuming you're not silly enough to be storing it in the sun.

New boards don't last long enough to yellow , so don't worry about it .

We've had numerous grip thread but matte clear coat + acrilic dust worked for me. Prep work is important. Even factory grip is applied overa glossy surface, no wonder they peel off.

Best bet for a home re grip job is clear epoxy applied as thin as you can get it. If using sugar, use castor sugar.
Do not use enamel. It's quite simply the wrong product for windsurf boards.

I've used Six10 rolled out thin, and sand sprinkled on.
Well, I heard you could.

Good to hear, debating if I want to add more grip to areas I painted on my board, kinda border line, and actually like it less grippy when I have to slide my foot across the deck to setup for a gybe.

Or whatever freestyle trick it ends up being with the foot slipping across the board.....

When using epoxy for re-grip with acrylic dust, it is easier to get a thin and even layer when thinning the epoxy a bit with ethanol (around 1:10) and using a roller for application.

When using epoxy for re-grip with acrylic dust, it is easier to get a thin and even layer when thinning the epoxy a bit with ethanol (around 1:10) and using a roller for application.

No, don't thin it out. A laminating resin like Kinetiix is fine. Use a foam roller.

Wow! That you all. My dealer is baffled that it turnout so slick. He is going to send me another can. I am going to scrub the surface with a stiff brush and clean it detergent and water. I am going to just apply 1-2 coats and see if I can get some real foot grip. I shook the can well last time, but I will go nuts this round. If this fails, I will sand and try UV clear resin and acrylic dust.

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Mark _australia said..
As an aside has anyone used Norglass nonslip powder? I want to know how it compares to Intergrip for particle size

I think the Norglass is Finer. Slippery under windsurf loads.
Same as all the junk grip from Bunnos. Tried a few.
Intergrip or Jotun particles for me.
Most Marine Chandlery stock it.
Or the local Boat Spray booth should have some laying around.