Those vids were very good Mark, nice filming also

fwiw, reading the reviews of "measuring cups" on Amazon indicates that a lot of the measurements are for entertainment purposes. They vary from cup to cup and 2 +2 doesn't always equal 4. Just be careful if you are buying cheap cups in bulk. I imagine the cups from the resin companies or supply houses are more accurate.

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Paducah said..
fwiw, reading the reviews of "measuring cups" on Amazon indicates that a lot of the measurements are for entertainment purposes. They vary from cup to cup and 2 +2 doesn't always equal 4. Just be careful if you are buying cheap cups in bulk. I imagine the cups from the resin companies or supply houses are more accurate.

Digital scales are so cheap it doesn't make sense to go by volume. I can mix 10g of epoxy with total accuracy using my scale.

+1 for scales

Hey Mark what are your thoughts on using Norglass poly urethane 2 pack for painting boards it never seems to get fish eyes or any thing like that and also seems to be fairly scratch resistant. Here are some pictures of my restored 2007 formula 161 which I did entirely with rollers using norglass, Im to intimidated to spray.

I did see that man, good job. In the videos we wanted to cover beginner to intermediate type stuff, not delving into 2pack as its so poisonous. Probably was worth mentioning that a foam roller can do a good job on large surfaces though, don't have to spray. That guy in USA who does show cars with a roller is just amazing. Can't find the link now...

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Grantmac said..

Paducah said..
fwiw, reading the reviews of "measuring cups" on Amazon indicates that a lot of the measurements are for entertainment purposes. They vary from cup to cup and 2 +2 doesn't always equal 4. Just be careful if you are buying cheap cups in bulk. I imagine the cups from the resin companies or supply houses are more accurate.

Digital scales are so cheap it doesn't make sense to go by volume. I can mix 10g of epoxy with total accuracy using my scale.

I agree, use scales myself. But as I mentioned above, it's worth keeping in mind that 2:1 epoxy isn't 2:1 when measuring by weight if one wants to be accurate.

^^^ yup.

And also nice to hear all the other info here but guys please keep in mind we are trying to show what a normal person who does a repair once a year can achieve - or how to get a slightly better result with some tips for things that are free - but not buy too much stuff. Thus the 30c measuring cup, cheapest rattle cans, I even reused the emery paper and the cleaning cloth a bit where I wouldn't usually.

Just remember - 65deg C - armageddon.

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Paducah said..

Grantmac said..

Paducah said..
fwiw, reading the reviews of "measuring cups" on Amazon indicates that a lot of the measurements are for entertainment purposes. They vary from cup to cup and 2 +2 doesn't always equal 4. Just be careful if you are buying cheap cups in bulk. I imagine the cups from the resin companies or supply houses are more accurate.

Digital scales are so cheap it doesn't make sense to go by volume. I can mix 10g of epoxy with total accuracy using my scale.

I agree, use scales myself. But as I mentioned above, it's worth keeping in mind that 2:1 epoxy isn't 2:1 when measuring by weight if one wants to be accurate.

The West epoxy resin with the fast or slow hardener is 5:1 by both volume and weight. The resin with the extra slow hardener is 3:1 by volume and 3.5:1 by weight.

Well Mark I really enjoyed your videos, it good for people to see how much time and experience goes into a repair.
I now know why when I'm tagging bus stops and walls why my tag goes a bit blotchy ??????

Rio - Another reason I don't use it. Its thinned to have low solids by volume to try and achieve that one little 'advantage'
West is fine for little repairs but its 20 year old+ tech and we're not building boats. I use a modern 2:1 ultra clear non yellowing (UV stable) as then it can be used for surfboards in the sun, laminating, repairs, carbon that has to look pretty, etc etc. If you're making a board or doing a lot of work I'm not a fan of West. Newer systems like mine have enormously higher tensile strength and at fairly higher compression strength (but they make it hard buy talking in different terms on their sites)

Found that very informative and done in a easy to understand way. Been playing with resins for years just for simple repairs, helped a lot!!!

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Mark _australia said..
Rio - Another reason I don't use it. Its thinned to have low solids by volume to try and achieve that one little 'advantage'
West is fine for little repairs but its 20 year old+ tech and we're not building boats. I use a modern 2:1 ultra clear non yellowing (UV stable) as then it can be used for surfboards in the sun, laminating, repairs, carbon that has to look pretty, etc etc. If you're making a board or doing a lot of work I'm not a fan of West. Newer systems like mine have enormously higher tensile strength and at fairly higher compression strength (but they make it hard buy talking in different terms on their sites)

Mark - I am in total agreement with you about the West System resin. Its mechanical properties are optimized for use in wooden structures and bonding applications. I did build my first several boards from it about 40 years ago because it was the best available resin at the time. Later on I had access to other resin systems that were better for board construction. Unfortunately most of those resins were not available to the general public. My work is now limited to repairing my own boards which only happens occasionally. I keep a small set of West System pumps with the resin and hardener on my garage shelf and tend to use it for repairing other things besides boards.

I still believe the West System is one of the best for basic repairs. At least in the US it is widely available. They have a variety of resins for different application, fillers and accessories like the pumps which makes it useful for the occasional user. There is also a wealth of educational information on line for using their various products. Anyway enough said.

Your online tutorials are really great and should help to a lot of people who are not familiar with board repair. I cringe at some of the repairs I see at our local sites but I also realize there is very little information available on how to do it in a proper manner. Keep up the good work.

I think this ones my favourite:




Don't have a ding to repair? Make one (in your mates board)

great videos fellas

^^ That first screen should say "on somebody else's board"

"Just remember - 65deg C - armageddon."

Is that when epoxy explodes into flames? Or is it the melting temp of EPS?

Hahahaa you need to watch the simple spraycan painting video

Time for another, hurry up Paul.

I like to use syringes for tiny batches (25cc) of epoxy.

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Mark _australia said..
Time for another, hurry up Paul.

Yes yes I know fame has gotten to you, another video on the king of repairs is coming up.

Have you ever wanted to sail on the clouds?

Well now you can, without drugs, thanks to Mark and his amazing deck pad upgrade tutorial.

Excellent work on these videos!

"Its not easy, not safe, and I don't recommend it". Nice inclusion hahahaha

No liability accepted. But seriously - a powertool will catch on foam and it requires some forethought. A cutter doing 20,000rpm that suddenly wants to jump at you is not fun. A trim router is not for plunging - even if I maybe imply that I might maybe do that....

Had a nose strike and few other cracks and chips which I have finally got around to after watching Paul and Marks Video. Another coat of surface primer then white spray paint. Now feeling more confident in the process.

The only thing which I need to figure out is the non slip area around the nose. Do you sprinkle salt or something during the paint stage? It's more aesthetics pretty hard to nose ride a slalom board!

Ideally, after the painting use a matte clear spray and sprinkle Intergrip, available from marine stores. Sprinkle very little.... like blow half a teaspoon off your hand into the air and thats enough to do like a square foot up front. Less is more......
Then a tiny bit more spray allowed to fall on it - verrry little

Thats the closest you can get to a factory finish

Thanks Mark - will look to do. Can do this later which is good. The Job is complete all sealed and has smooth finish. Only downside is as mentioned white is not white. The white I used almost looks a little grey. At least it's all water tight now and can confidently know there no water is going to get into the board. Glad I did, was good practice.

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Mark _australia said..
That Mark guy does some dodgy stuff hey.

Loving the youtube comments , I can't reply but please don't read into them too much. Like "shouldn't you use an airbrush" and we specifically said we're doing the painting that anyone can do cheap and easy. Not doing a pro painting video - it would be 90mins long and cover how to spend $2K on equipment and waste 4 days of your life learning to do an acceptable job. Spraying in a proper gun is exactly that. Took me years and years to learn how to spray like I did in that first video.

Or "you can't just put two layers of glass over that" - it was solid, we didn't show all the pushing and prodding that showed we could just do a basic repair. Basic videos to show what normal folks can do, and a few little tips to avoid the pitfalls.

More videos coming and happy to answer questions here. Not too many, I'm gonna do myself out of a job.....

Absolutely dumb question here mate, but are you mark from surf sail?
Thanks

nope
mark oz gero
other mark perth