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Mark _australia said..
>>> First thought though- the bloke at the foam place needs the sack.

I think he's the boss, so that's not going to happen

First off this morning, I marked out the rail tuck and trimmed off the excess PVC.


This weighed 1.879, and with the 3l of PVC is about 91l

Then got stuck into shaping the deck and rails.



so inserts marked out, and mast track well routed out. this comes in at 1.651kg, so I've removed 228gm of foam which is 17.25l

So volume at the moment is around 74l, the PVC will probably add another 4l, so board could end up 78l

tomorrow will add the blue foam reinforcing for the inserts.

We have two threads and 3 projects about what various "Mikes" are up to
Can I do what Mark is up to, even if it is only ummmmm 20L and might be for the ummmm "other" wind sortasport?

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Mark _australia said..
We have two threads and 3 projects about what various "Mikes" are up to
Can I do what Mark is up to, even if it is only ummmmm 20L and might be for the ummmm "other" wind sortasport?

As long as its not a Wally, they seem to be hijacking every thread on here.

OK hijack:

5'3" x 18.75" - 24L

Single into vee into last minute slight flat. Very conventional......

You M,s have got some bloody good skills. All your work is looking great even if some of it is for the dark side.
Mike, have you set yourself a deadline, you are powering through the work.

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Swindy said..>>>>
Mike, have you set yourself a deadline, you are powering through the work.

No deadline, that way I'm not disappointed when I don't meet it, besides I gave up pressure and stress a long time ago, it happens when it happens.

Like today, (not that I'm blaming firie, it was great to catch up with him).
Thought I'd have the blue foam glued in, and started on cutting some foam for Ratz's board today, but I still haven't got the holes for the blue foam routed out.
It's all cut to size, but the cradle I was going to use to support the router over the mast track well, was still set up for the old router. So I spent some time modifying that for the current router.

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Mark _australia said..
>>> Can I do what Mark is up to, even if it is only ummmmm 20L and might be for the ummmm "other" wind sortaspo rt?

You're more than welcome mate!

Impressive work Mike. No way I would tackle a job like that, I'd screw it up for sure

Impressive work Mike. No way I would tackle a job like that, I'd screw it up for sure

Sorry Rob, hoped to get around to your board this arvo, but I got distracted this morning.

Crows and Currawongs were going crazy out the back window, a small flock of Black Cockies had invaded. The combined efforts of crows and currawongs wasn't enough to deter the Cockies so they eventually gave up. The cockies then got stuck into what they'd come for. Tearing the bark off our Peppermint tree searching for grubs.

So I just had to grab the real camera and try to get some pics.




I'm pleased with this shot, you can even see where she's (I think it's female, unless Dot's wrong about the males having a red eye ring), broken through into the grub's tunnel. I think the tree will survive, it may even be better off if they've got rid of several borers.

So when I finally got into the shed, I routed out the holes for the blue foam and resined them in.

Then I took great pleasure in sweeping up all the foam dust, and then taking my mask off!
Tomorrow a small amount of clean up shaping to do, a template of the deck made, with blue foam blocks accurately marked, so I get the inserts in the right spot. Then cut out the PVC and cloth using the template.
There may be time to pre heat form the PVC, but there wont be time to glass it on, that will probably have to wait until Monday, if the wind forecast holds up

Beautiful bird. Why do the crows fuss over them?

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Mark _australia said..
OK hijack:

5'3" x 18.75" - 24L

Single into vee into last minute slight flat. Very conventional......

Nice Mark.... I am keen to make myself a directional as well. What is your layup/construction going to be?

^^^ secret

haha. I always do corecell underfoot so it is better than a normal surfboard, for very little weight increase.
stringerless 28kg (1.7lb) styro, so needs a bit more glass. Careful reading online advice as the Yanks have way more dense styro than us.
My last board with 8oz bottom and 10z top plus one layer of wood feels tough, yet is not considered heavy by anyone who rode it.

So thus going a bit heavier this time just to see .........

12oz bottom, 12oz top with deck patch, plus wood, then 2oz over the wood. Could be a bit much on the underside, but ran out of 4oz cloth lol


Was also considering lighter glassing schedule on the deck but with a t-stringer, maybe on next one.

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Dar said..
Beautiful bird. Why do the crows fuss over them?

there's no competition for food, so I guess it's just a territory thing. This is the first time I've seen these guys here, and the crows and currawongs are local they don't go far out of this block. The cockies are also bigger than them so maybe they felt threatened. It didn't take all that long for them to loose interest so perhaps they realised it was OK

Seabreeze needs more threads like this!

Customs, tinkering and DIY are the reason our sport has progressed to where it is today. We need more of it!

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Bertie said..
Seabreeze needs more threads like this!
Customs, tinkering and DIY are the reason our sport has progressed to where it is today. We need more of it!

Good point Bertie, I think the more we spread knowledge around, the better things can get. (As long as it's not distorted in any way)

Not much today, just made the clear plastic template and cut out the PVC.
It's a bit of a jigsaw I've had to do it with 4 pieces. The gurit foam sheet is smaller than the divinycell sheet and 2 full size sheets aren't possible.

^^^^^ last time I had to do that I joined it first with tape on one side then resin along join...... got sick of wrestling 2 of the buggers around and not lining up later.....

Slight hijack of the tread here, sorry, but seemed like the place to ask.

Does anyone know of a particular polystyrene foam block supplier in Melbourne who is good to deal with and can supply various grades and bead sizes, cut to size.

Preferably on the East side of the city.

I used to buy heaps of blocks 35 years ago for bracing in Kayaks and surf skis I was building, and buit a few EPS sailboards, but the companies I delt with don't seem exist anymore.

I have done a google search of course and have found some possibilities, but thought someone might have some favourite recommendations.

^^^^
Yes I do , different grades cut perfectly square ,eastern suburbs. Only problem , info is at work. Will post here Monday .

A bit of progress today. Or masking tape is your friend.

Cleaned up the bog around the inserts, and did a bit of fine shaping, thinned the nose out a bit more. I had a discussion with Yoyo yesterday, about foiling the front deck a bit to give it more lift and stop it stalling. Yoyo says with his flat decked board, on dead flat water, the nose goes up and down for no apparent reason, he puts it down to the nose lifting with wind under it, then reaching a critical angle of attack and stalling, coming back down to a lower angle of attack, to start the whole process over again.
So now the front deck has a pronounced curve.

Taped up the PVC and got the tail piece preformed.


Placed an old piece of scrap fiberglass under the PVC as an insulator, to protect the EPS from the heat gun.

So I've taped around the edges so the PVC doesn't split when I tension the straps. The sandbags hold the PVC down on to the deck and help stop it moving around.




My deck is a complex curve, so I need to cut darts around the edge otherwise I get voids, even if I up vacuum pressure, and I don't want to do that!
With the heat gun I bend the PVC and tape in place, working on alternate sides. If you do one side at a time, you pull the PVC off centre.




So lots of tape to hold it all down, but not as much as I use when glassing it on.

I've also got the cloth cut out

NIce tips! Is the PVC 5mm?

Not much to show today, I got the rest of the PVC preformed, then spent time messing around with the well.
I remember from past boards this being a problem area. It can stress the vacuum bag if you're not careful, and I have had voids. So I'm trying an experiment, cutting some foam rubber to fit in the well, so the bag is less stressed and hopefully it will give good all round pressure. But it's going to be finicky work getting it all sorted prior to going in the bag, so I'll be using slow hardener, and try and start the process early. If i'm not ready to go before lunch tomorrow I'll leave it until Wednesday.






So I hope this works!
The well is a pain all the way through construction, certainly don't attempt one until you've had some experience.
And it's only of benefit in narrow wide boards. I'm trying to reduce the rotational leverage of the rig. I think that's why some production boards have a hollow deck, but that looses volume.
Being an old fart I want to conserve energy, and sinkers can be tiring if you're doing a lot of water starting, which is often the case speed sailing. So I try for as much volume as reasonably possible.

(I think that gap between yellow and green PVCs will disapoear when it's all lined up properly. At the moment it's only roughly in place.

such tidy work, and great skill decrepit

I'm nervous that the rubber in the well won't work - I think it'll work on the bottom pvc and the top of the sides, but the bottom sides won't stick down tight (the 90 deg edges), I don't understand why the vac bag won't suck to the well form, it'll have to be creased a bit around the well but that should be fine ? do you cut the well hole in the glass and then glass under the pvc with 4 pieces ? certainly for vacuuming on the outer glass, the bag would need to suck to the form... not sure... just thinking out loud

question if you don't mind - do you apply a fiberglass capping over inserts like mast track and foot strap plugs?

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Imax1 said..
^^^^
Yes I do , different grades cut perfectly square ,eastern suburbs. Only problem , info is at work. Will post here Monday .

Foamex in Bayswater , Vic.
( 03 ) 97204200
2600 x 820 x 220 13kg density , SL GRD = $ 118 inc gst.
Cut super square with a 10mm top and bottom packing sheet , nice !

Thanks Brett.
I use glass over the footstrap plugs because they're being pulled upwards. But the force on the finbox is sideways, so glass over the top only obscures any cracks, and epoxy doesn't stick very well to the box plastic anyway, so I don't normally do it


The foam is a fair bit oversized, so it's exerting sideways pressure even without vacuum.
Here's what it looks like in the bag.


so the foam is well depressed and exerting force sideways. I'll know tomorrow how the bottom sides have bonded.

My worry about the bag, was not getting enough slack plastic in the bottom corners. I need this bag to do the external layers, I don't want to over stress it.

OK back about 3hrs,

Took the PVC off the deck.

So nicely shaped ready to go back on.




Sorry a bit fuzzy, but the two bands of tape around the rails are visible enough. This is to stop excess glass sticking to the bottom.

Mixed the slow hardener for the first time about 1130. Now, 6hrs later it's a thick molasses, still drips off the end of the stirrer. The normal resin would be hard by now, and the vacuum pump could be turned off, hopefully it'll be off enough in another 5 ot 6 hours to do that.

It had me worried for a while, it stayed liquid for ages. But the normal resin would have been very thick by the time the board was in the bag, so I guess I need a medium set. If I'd had any normal hardener for this resin I could have mixed them. Half and half probably would have been the go.

Ooooh lots of boardie pics! Love your work Decrepit!

I think the slow hardener is fine. I believe it has a better strength if it is a slow cure, not?

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Dar said.
I think the slow hardener is fine. I believe it has a better strength if it is a slow cure, not?

I've also heard that, but it may be system specific. I've no idea with this stuff.

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Dar said. I think the slow hardener is fine. I believe it has a better strength if it is a slow cure, not?

I found the data sheet, and this isn't the case
sheers strength of fiberglass laminate in MPa
slow 53 - 57
normal 59 - 62
fast 54 - 58
This is Araldite LY 3505.

I got up at 0330 this morning and turned off the Vacuum pump, as resin was no longer liquid.
But even after 24hrs the resin was still very flexible, that made it easy to cut the excess carbon off with a sharp blade.