This arrived yesterday. The only question is middle or outboard rear strap(s)...

Is anyone going to roll with the middle strap or already are using it?

Board bag wise I think I will get Surf Aids to make a coffin style custom job.

The first time I foiled my 114 went full inboard with the straps now my set up is front straps outboard all the way forward and single rear center strap. Also you might check your screws mine were to long bottomed out in the hole before the straps became tight wound up taking them to the bench grinder and made them a few mm shorter. Have fun your going to have a blast on that board.

Nice. This was my set up (sail universal where that yellow bungee is, i76 nearly all the way back in the track or i99 all the way forward). When I tried the back centre strap, I found my back foot creeping out to the rail, so I ended up moving my straps to outer back. However, if I didn't have the freestyle for swell riding I would probably have gone center back.

Also if i didn't plan on running it with 99 then I would probably move the front straps forward to the winging holes and move foil mast and sail mast forward.

You are going to love this board, so versatile. One board quiver for 80kg or less

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KDog said..
The first time I foiled my 114 went full inboard with the straps now my set up is front straps outboard all the way forward and single rear center strap. Also you might check your screws mine were to long bottomed out in the hole before the straps became tight wound up taking them to the bench grinder and made them a few mm shorter. Have fun your going to have a blast on that board.

Doesn't seem like too much to ask to put the correct screws in a $3k+ board . I'll check mine today.

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thedoor said..



Nice. This was my set up (sail universal where that yellow bungee is, i76 nearly all the way back in the track or i99 all the way forward). When I tried the back centre strap, I found my back foot creeping out to the rail, so I ended up moving my straps to outer back. However, if I didn't have the freestyle for swell riding I would probably have gone center back.

Also if i didn't plan on running it with 99 then I would probably move the front straps forward to the winging holes and move foil mast and sail mast forward.

You are going to love this board, so versatile. One board quiver for 80kg or less

Good to know on the universal location. I think I will start with the rear outboard then as unfortunately I don't do much swell riding.

Depends on which foil, your weight, your preference, and your predominant wind conditions for what you rig.

Think you'll get a bunch of different answers on the new foot strap positions so the best way is to screw on the straps out towards the rail on port tack, then screw the foot straps in board on the starboard side.

Then experiment with strap holes 1,2 or 3 until you find out what feels good for you...each strap hole will yield a different board response.

Then you the mast base and twin tracks to play with

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CoreAS said..
Think you'll get a bunch of different answers on the new foot strap positions so the best way is to screw on the straps out towards the rail on port tack, then screw the foot straps in board on the starboard side.

Then experiment with strap holes 1,2 or 3 until you find out what feels good for you...each strap hole will yield a different board response.

Then you the mast base and twin tracks to play with

Quite a genius idea really.

@KDog - can confirm my screws are too long.

Also got a new toy.
I've gone full forward and outboard on the front with a centre rear.

If the screws are too long then just file down the ends a little.

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2keen said..




Also got a new toy.
I've gone full forward and outboard on the front with a centre rear.

That's quite the matching sail and board color coordination...should be super quick looking forward to seeing you guys ripping it in the videos soon.

Ok I retract my statement about the screws being too long. I got the Vernier out and stuck it in the screw holes and there is plenty of room.

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thedoor said..



Nice. This was my set up (sail universal where that yellow bungee is, i76 nearly all the way back in the track or i99 all the way forward). When I tried the back centre strap, I found my back foot creeping out to the rail, so I ended up moving my straps to outer back. However, if I didn't have the freestyle for swell riding I would probably have gone center back.

Also if i didn't plan on running it with 99 then I would probably move the front straps forward to the winging holes and move foil mast and sail mast forward.

You are going to love this board, so versatile. One board quiver for 80kg or less

Why not move your foot straps forward and put the i99 in "C" position? Now you can use the Apollo, i76 (both in "B" position) and i99 and try some wing foiling -- one board to rule them all!

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dejavu said..

thedoor said..



Nice. This was my set up (sail universal where that yellow bungee is, i76 nearly all the way back in the track or i99 all the way forward). When I tried the back centre strap, I found my back foot creeping out to the rail, so I ended up moving my straps to outer back. However, if I didn't have the freestyle for swell riding I would probably have gone center back.

Also if i didn't plan on running it with 99 then I would probably move the front straps forward to the winging holes and move foil mast and sail mast forward.

You are going to love this board, so versatile. One board quiver for 80kg or less

Why not move your foot straps forward and put the i99 in "C" position? Now you can use the Apollo, i76 (both in "B" position) and i99 and try some wing foiling -- one board to rule them all!

Currently using the i99 in C position. Never tried it in B, on any board. If straps and mast base stay the same I need the i76 in B at least 6cm further back than i99 in C. Apollo 60 is one cm back relative to i76.

It is a versatile board for sure, there isn't much it cannot do. So far I seem to be immune to the wingvirus but the way it's spreading I am sure I will catch it eventually.

I've got a 114 arriving soon and I'm also curious about foot strap positions. I'm mostly going to be swell riding so I'm definitely going to start with centre rear strap, but what difference in performance and feel does inboard v outboard front strap position yield??? I've noticed quite a few videos of people going outboard fronts in swell, coming from a wavesailing background this seems counter intuitive to me.. Please explain

I think I will run the fronts all the way forward to start as well.

I run my 114 straps like 2keen has posted above think it makes the strap to strap method of jibes a bit easier. I'll have to revisit the inboard setup sometime think it might make jumping feel a bit more natural like on a fin board.I do know their is a big difference in the way the board feels inboard vs outboard.

Front strap all the way forward outside. No rear straps yet. My rear foot is on the rail going upwind, and in the middle-ish carving around down wind.

I also drag the foot strap screws across a piece of bar soap before install. They go in way easier, and the water washes away any soap residue.

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bigdaz said..
I've got a 114 arriving soon and I'm also curious about foot strap positions. I'm mostly going to be swell riding so I'm definitely going to start with centre rear strap, but what difference in performance and feel does inboard v outboard front strap position yield??? I've noticed quite a few videos of people going outboard fronts in swell, coming from a wavesailing background this seems counter intuitive to me.. Please explain

I think I will run the fronts all the way forward to start as well.

Bigdaz,
As you know windfoiling and windsurfing require different techniques.
The Wizard 114 is 66cm wide, wider than any waveboard I ever sailed. In addition the "outboard" straps aren't outboard compared to a slalom board ie they are still inboard from the rail.
To maximise the ability to carve from rail to rail I find the front outboard strap and a roaming back foot works best. If you want to carve hard to windward you want pressure on the windward side of the board, not sure you could get this with your front foot in an inboard foot strap.
Same for carving off the wind, which is when I move my back foot over the centre line of the board. The hardest carve to leeward is a gybe. I place my back foot right out on the leeward rail to really bank the board over. I think having my front foot on the opposite side of the board in an "outboard" strap gives a solid stable base.
When driving upwind my front foot is still in the strap but toes only allowing more rail pressure.
There is no question you can ride with inboard straps OR no straps.
Think your style of riding will dictate where you end up.
The Wizard 114 is an amazing board, so versatile.
Keep us posted how you get on??
Simon

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2keen said..

bigdaz said..
I've got a 114 arriving soon and I'm also curious about foot strap positions. I'm mostly going to be swell riding so I'm definitely going to start with centre rear strap, but what difference in performance and feel does inboard v outboard front strap position yield??? I've noticed quite a few videos of people going outboard fronts in swell, coming from a wavesailing background this seems counter intuitive to me.. Please explain

I think I will run the fronts all the way forward to start as well.

Bigdaz,
As you know windfoiling and windsurfing require different techniques.
The Wizard 114 is 66cm wide, wider than any waveboard I ever sailed. In addition the "outboard" straps aren't outboard compared to a slalom board ie they are still inboard from the rail.
To maximise the ability to carve from rail to rail I find the front outboard strap and a roaming back foot works best. If you want to carve hard to windward you want pressure on the windward side of the board, not sure you could get this with your front foot in an inboard foot strap.
Same for carving off the wind, which is when I move my back foot over the centre line of the board. The hardest carve to leeward is a gybe. I place my back foot right out on the leeward rail to really bank the board over. I think having my front foot on the opposite side of the board in an "outboard" strap gives a solid stable base.
When driving upwind my front foot is still in the strap but toes only allowing more rail pressure.
There is no question you can ride with inboard straps OR no straps.
Think your style of riding will dictate where you end up.
The Wizard 114 is an amazing board, so versatile.
Keep us posted how you get on??
Simon

Thanks for the info Simon, makes a lot of sense. Courier just dropped the board and foil (i76) off, I'll let you know how I go.

I think I might start with the fronts Inboard and I can edge my feet wider out of the straps and see how that feels and make the change if needed and stay with centre back strap initially.

The adventure begins!!!

Select to expand quote

bigdaz said..

2keen said..

bigdaz said..
I've got a 114 arriving soon and I'm also curious about foot strap positions. I'm mostly going to be swell riding so I'm definitely going to start with centre rear strap, but what difference in performance and feel does inboard v outboard front strap position yield??? I've noticed quite a few videos of people going outboard fronts in swell, coming from a wavesailing background this seems counter intuitive to me.. Please explain

I think I will run the fronts all the way forward to start as well.

Bigdaz,
As you know windfoiling and windsurfing require different techniques.
The Wizard 114 is 66cm wide, wider than any waveboard I ever sailed. In addition the "outboard" straps aren't outboard compared to a slalom board ie they are still inboard from the rail.
To maximise the ability to carve from rail to rail I find the front outboard strap and a roaming back foot works best. If you want to carve hard to windward you want pressure on the windward side of the board, not sure you could get this with your front foot in an inboard foot strap.
Same for carving off the wind, which is when I move my back foot over the centre line of the board. The hardest carve to leeward is a gybe. I place my back foot right out on the leeward rail to really bank the board over. I think having my front foot on the opposite side of the board in an "outboard" strap gives a solid stable base.
When driving upwind my front foot is still in the strap but toes only allowing more rail pressure.
There is no question you can ride with inboard straps OR no straps.
Think your style of riding will dictate where you end up.
The Wizard 114 is an amazing board, so versatile.
Keep us posted how you get on??
Simon

Thanks for the info Simon, makes a lot of sense. Courier just dropped the board and foil (i76) off, I'll let you know how I go.

I think I might start with the fronts Inboard and I can edge my feet wider out of the straps and see how that feels and make the change if needed and stay with centre back strap initially.

The adventure begins!!!

Great combo of gear bro.

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WsurfAustin said..
I also drag the foot strap screws across a piece of bar soap before install. They go in way easier, and the water washes away any soap residue.

So do I with the screws. This is an old carpenter trick.

I like centerline straps, especially for flagged swell rides but also carving. I have pretty big feet though and can basically get my heel to the rail with the straps on center by doing a foot twist (heel forward).

And what about strap tightness? Loose, med or tight???
I'm use to relatively loose on my wave board so I can get my foot right in and over centre line.. But feel this probably isn't as crucial on the foil? What do you guys tend to run?

Select to expand quote

bigdaz said..
And what about strap tightness? Loose, med or tight???
I'm use to relatively loose on my wave board so I can get my foot right in and over centre line.. But feel this probably isn't as crucial on the foil? What do you guys tend to run?

Tall and narrow so that the foot rotates in the strap and releases easily in a crash.

Select to expand quote

bigdaz said..
And what about strap tightness? Loose, med or tight???
I'm use to relatively loose on my wave board so I can get my foot right in and over centre line.. But feel this probably isn't as crucial on the foil? What do you guys tend to run?

toes only tight or massive. I go for massive but I don't jump, mabye if I did I would have to make em smaller

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2keen said..

The Wizard 114 is an amazing board, so versatile.
Keep us posted how you get on??
Simon

First flights today wind was a bit light for learning to start with 11-13knts with my biggest wave sail (Ezzy Wave 5.2), but I was super keen. Managed to pump up a few times and get my first tentative flights. Then it picked up to 15-16ish, so much easier to get flying and keep flying. Lots of great reaches in the bay and out to sea, got a few carves in, but mostly just working on consistant flights and heights... so much fun. Off the foil tacking wasnt too bad, just need to be quick. Took a tonne of stacks trying to gybe - so much to learn there, but got a fair way around on a few attempts, but mostly spectacular crashes - so easy to foil out in gybes, need to keep my weight forward. Could easily uphaul when needed, but managed to waterstart most of the time and keep feet clear of the foil.

I started off with the Universal just back of centre in the light wind, but thought it might be easier to pump up with it back, so dropped it all the way back and did feel it was easier to pump there and ended up leaving it there the whole time, felt good closer to front foot. Foil mast about 5mm from furthest back position in tracks - felt good there.

My footstraps were as I mentioned all the way forward and inboard and centre back in middle holes. I felt out different positions by edging my feet wider and feel like I might prefer outboard - especially pushing up wind, so I will give it a go next time - feels like there might be better control in that position. I like using the back strap to pump up but then needed to put foot in front of strap in gusts to not foil out and ended up leaving it there a lot, felt more in control of heights with it there.

Wind picked up some more 16-19knts, was starting to get a bit hectic with my 5.2, but as it was getting close to the end of session, just pushed though.... foil outs and more spectacular crashes more common overpowered - probably should have put UJ forward again, this might have helped.

Anyway, couldn't be happier with Wizard 114 and I76, thanks all for all the awesome info in this and other previous posts...I've been scouring Seabreeze to learn as much as I can and it's derfinately helped!!!

Epic first session (3+ hours) and more to come

Select to expand quote

bigdaz said..

2keen said..

The Wizard 114 is an amazing board, so versatile.
Keep us posted how you get on??
Simon

First flights today wind was a bit light for learning to start with 11-13knts with my biggest wave sail (Ezzy Wave 5.2), but I was super keen. Managed to pump up a few times and get my first tentative flights. Then it picked up to 15-16ish, so much easier to get flying and keep flying. Lots of great reaches in the bay and out to sea, got a few carves in, but mostly just working on consistant flights and heights... so much fun. Off the foil tacking wasnt too bad, just need to be quick. Took a tonne of stacks trying to gybe - so much to learn there, but got a fair way around on a few attempts, but mostly spectacular crashes - so easy to foil out in gybes, need to keep my weight forward. Could easily uphaul when needed, but managed to waterstart most of the time and keep feet clear of the foil.

I started off with the Universal just back of centre in the light wind, but thought it might be easier to pump up with it back, so dropped it all the way back and did feel it was easier to pump there and ended up leaving it there the whole time, felt good closer to front foot. Foil mast about 5mm from furthest back position in tracks - felt good there.

My footstraps were as I mentioned all the way forward and inboard and centre back in middle holes. I felt out different positions by edging my feet wider and feel like I might prefer outboard - especially pushing up wind, so I will give it a go next time - feels like there might be better control in that position. I like using the back strap to pump up but then needed to put foot in front of strap in gusts to not foil out and ended up leaving it there a lot, felt more in control of heights with it there.

Wind picked up some more 16-19knts, was starting to get a bit hectic with my 5.2, but as it was getting close to the end of session, just pushed though.... foil outs and more spectacular crashes more common overpowered - probably should have put UJ forward again, this might have helped.

Anyway, couldn't be happier with Wizard 114 and I76, thanks all for all the awesome info in this and other previous posts...I've been scouring Seabreeze to learn as much as I can and it's derfinately helped!!!

Epic first session (3+ hours) and more to come

Sounds like an excellent first session.

Here is some tips:
1) learn to ride with a heavy front foot, this allows you to move the wing forward in the tracks. It helps with getting up when under powered and it makes flying gybes much more likely
2) When powered up it might be difficult to sail on a beam reach without breaching. If starting to breach beginners need to step their back foot forward, as you become more advanced you will just crank up wind in the gusts instead
3) Keep trying to fly through those gybes, versus intentionally touching down.

Select to expand quote

Sounds like an excellent first session.

Here is some tips:
1) learn to ride with a heavy front foot, this allows you to move the wing forward in the tracks. It helps with getting up when under powered and it makes flying gybes much more likely
2) When powered up it might be difficult to sail on a beam reach without breaching. If starting to breach beginners need to step their back foot forward, as you become more advanced you will just crank up wind in the gusts instead
3) Keep trying to fly through those gybes, versus intentionally touching down.

Cheers, such a steep (but fun) learning curve, takes a lot of mental energy to put it all together, but even after 3 hours felt myself naturally shifting weight forward and back as needed, will definitely concentrate on heavier front foot riding and start to incrementally shift mast track a bit forward as I progress, especially in lighter wind.

Yes cranking up wind in the gusts felt amazing, at my spot to make it out past the point you have to sail a beam reach in the windiest zone, experienced multiple foil outs and crashes there!!! What's the trick if you have to sail beam reach and are overpowered?

In my gybes I was more foiling out than touching down, maybe trying to aggressively, I think I was struggling with keeping my weight forward while I had pressure on back foot to bank board over and carve through the turn, maybe it's a lot more subtle with the back foot?

Select to expand quote

bigdaz said..

Sounds like an excellent first session.

Here is some tips:
1) learn to ride with a heavy front foot, this allows you to move the wing forward in the tracks. It helps with getting up when under powered and it makes flying gybes much more likely
2) When powered up it might be difficult to sail on a beam reach without breaching. If starting to breach beginners need to step their back foot forward, as you become more advanced you will just crank up wind in the gusts instead
3) Keep trying to fly through those gybes, versus intentionally touching down.

Cheers, such a steep (but fun) learning curve, takes a lot of mental energy to put it all together, but even after 3 hours felt myself naturally shifting weight forward and back as needed, will definitely concentrate on heavier front foot riding and start to incrementally shift mast track a bit forward as I progress, especially in lighter wind.

Yes cranking up wind in the gusts felt amazing, at my spot to make it out past the point you have to sail a beam reach in the windiest zone, experienced multiple foil outs and crashes there!!! What's the trick if you have to sail beam reach and are overpowered?

In my gybes I was more foiling out than touching down, maybe trying to aggressively, I think I was struggling with keeping my weight forward while I had pressure on back foot to bank board over and carve through the turn, maybe it's a lot more subtle with the back foot?

Sailing beam reach overpowered there are a few options:

Ideally you would shift your weight way onto your front foot and keep pressure down the harness lines. that might be a bit more of an intermediate skill, which sounds like you are not far off of doing, but an easier method is just to step the back foot forward to help hold the nose of the board down. A common problem is sheeting out and losing your mast foot pressure so try not to do that or if you do it compensate by bring that back foot way forward.

I find that with really long lines I can sheet out the sail but keep downward force on the mast base to help keep the nose down. But I would not have been able to do this early on.

Foiling out gybing is a good sign, cause it means you have good lift in the foil. Going more gentle on the back foot to initiate the carve is good. I tend to do an initial less lateral step to start thing turning then move the back foot further to the rail in the middle of the gybe. You tend to do a big slow radius so you do not need to rail the board over much

Select to expand quote

Sailing beam reach overpowered there are a few options:

Ideally you would shift your weight way onto your front foot and keep pressure down the harness lines. that might be a bit more of an intermediate skill, which sounds like you are not far off of doing, but an easier method is just to step the back foot forward to help hold the nose of the board down. A common problem is sheeting out and losing your mast foot pressure so try not to do that or if you do it compensate by bring that back foot way forward.

I find that with really long lines I can sheet out the sail but keep downward force on the mast base to help keep the nose down. But I would not have been able to do this early on.

Foiling out gybing is a good sign, cause it means you have good lift in the foil. Going more gentle on the back foot to initiate the carve is good. I tend to do an initial less lateral step to start thing turning then move the back foot further to the rail in the middle of the gybe. You tend to do a big slow radius so you do not need to rail the board over much

Thanks, this stuff is gold and really helping my progress. Sorry the thread has gotten a bit off topic though. Second session today 24knts at times gusting to close to 30 - my 4.2 felt pretty maxed out (I'm gonna need a smaller sail) and chest high swell to contend with. I moved front straps to outboard fully forward and after a couple of runs felt much more comfortable with them there and better control. Moved UJ back to just back from middle of track and left foil mast almost right back. Set up felt right for the conditions. Used both methods today for beam reach overpowered, stepping back foot forward and also leaning into harness lines to keep nose down. I did fall into the trap of sheeting out at times and foiling out, so will be more aware of that now.
Starting to get further around in gybe attempts but still a long way to go, but hey it's early days. All in all another great session and lots of progress

Select to expand quote

bigdaz said..

Sailing beam reach overpowered there are a few options:

Ideally you would shift your weight way onto your front foot and keep pressure down the harness lines. that might be a bit more of an intermediate skill, which sounds like you are not far off of doing, but an easier method is just to step the back foot forward to help hold the nose of the board down. A common problem is sheeting out and losing your mast foot pressure so try not to do that or if you do it compensate by bring that back foot way forward.

I find that with really long lines I can sheet out the sail but keep downward force on the mast base to help keep the nose down. But I would not have been able to do this early on.

Foiling out gybing is a good sign, cause it means you have good lift in the foil. Going more gentle on the back foot to initiate the carve is good. I tend to do an initial less lateral step to start thing turning then move the back foot further to the rail in the middle of the gybe. You tend to do a big slow radius so you do not need to rail the board over much

Thanks, this stuff is gold and really helping my progress. Sorry the thread has gotten a bit off topic though. Second session today 24knts at times gusting to close to 30 - my 4.2 felt pretty maxed out (I'm gonna need a smaller sail) and chest high swell to contend with. I moved front straps to outboard fully forward and after a couple of runs felt much more comfortable with them there and better control. Moved UJ back to just back from middle of track and left foil mast almost right back. Set up felt right for the conditions. Used both methods today for beam reach overpowered, stepping back foot forward and also leaning into harness lines to keep nose down. I did fall into the trap of sheeting out at times and foiling out, so will be more aware of that now.
Starting to get further around in gybe attempts but still a long way to go, but hey it's early days. All in all another great session and lots of progress

Great. A flatwater spot can really help master the gybes.

In rough water, I often do a J instead of an arc. The long part of the J is the entry

Smallstep with back foot to bare off then oversheet to stall the sail. I am probably going 60 degrees off the wind and I focus on controlling the board height in the swell. I try to time the sail flip so I am on the top of a swell. Its a quick turn then I sail out switch for a bit and then switch my feet.

Sounds like you making good progress in challenging conditions (swell). Lots of good advice from the experts here..


From a beginners perspective...

It's all subtle movements, weight distribution as opposed to power moves when finning. Balancing all the forces just takes time. After 6 months, I've finally got all my tuning dialed in perfect. That took a lot of experimentation though.

My first successful flying jibes were with a small sail in higher winds. Tiny sail is easy to control and get more "coasting" time in high winds to get feet and balance sorted out. My biggest problem early on jibing was trying to stay powered up through the whole arc. I was better off working on balance and foot skills, even if the exit of the jibe was in the water. I've just started to be able to foil switch foot in the jibe which is awkward as hell, but helps in jibing with larger sails in light wind to keep from stalling out. I enter the jibe powered up with good speed and open the sail early to start rotation. As the sail is unloaded, mast foot pressure is reduced and the nose of the board will lift. Thats where foiling out will occur if you don't compensate my shifting your weight/rig forward.


Overpowered off the wind, as others have said, move the rear foot forward and lightly modulate sail pressure to stay balanced and flying. Radically yanking the sail will start the porpoising motion results in "going over the bars".