Hi, I'm after some advice on board setup, as I seem to be one of the few remaining (and newish) foilers in Northern Ireland - everyone's turning to winging!
I'm using a Starboard Freeride (2022) 150 with a Starboard Freeride 1100 foil (have 500 and 330 rear wings) and Severne Foilglide sails (6, 7 and 8m).
I have my footstraps set as follows (would have posted a photo, but can't):
Front strap - outside row, middle holes
Rear strap - centre row, rear holes
I'm usually sailing with the UJ just aft of centre, and have only tried the -2 and -1.5 shim for the rear wing (only just swapped to the 330). And for info, I'm about 80 Kgs.
I found when overpowered using the 500 rear wing, I struggled to keep the foil in the water (hence front strap fairly far forward). Yesterday trying the 330 wing with -2 shim and a 6m foil glide in 15-20 kgs of wind, not for the first time, I struggled to keep the board out of the water, although did have it successfully 'low flying' at 20 Kts a few times (hence rear strap fully back).

Any tips on setup of board (and foil) gratefully received! Thanks.

My footstraps are close to the same, maybe a setting further forward due to using iQfoil. Sounds like a stabilizer shim issue. Maybe try 0 degree shim with the 330? What is the fuse length?

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BobbinAbout said..
Hi, I'm after some advice on board setup, as I seem to be one of the few remaining (and newish) foilers in Northern Ireland - everyone's turning to winging!
I'm using a Starboard Freeride (2022) 150 with a Starboard Freeride 1100 foil (have 500 and 330 rear wings) and Severne Foilglide sails (6, 7 and 8m).
I have my footstraps set as follows (would have posted a photo, but can't):
Front strap - outside row, middle holes
Rear strap - centre row, rear holes
I'm usually sailing with the UJ just aft of centre, and have only tried the -2 and -1.5 shim for the rear wing (only just swapped to the 330). And for info, I'm about 80 Kgs.
I found when overpowered using the 500 rear wing, I struggled to keep the foil in the water (hence front strap fairly far forward). Yesterday trying the 330 wing with -2 shim and a 6m foil glide in 15-20 kgs of wind, not for the first time, I struggled to keep the board out of the water, although did have it successfully 'low flying' at 20 Kts a few times (hence rear strap fully back).

Any tips on setup of board (and foil) gratefully received! Thanks.

I have the same board. Different foil now, but on my older foil it would have been similar. Answer is to move you mast base forward a cm at a time until the board feels balanced. It do it on the water - drop the sail, pop it off the UJ (but don't let it float away), move the mast base then bend the UJ over and reattach the sail. Done! I would start the mast base in the middle of the track and go from there. On my earliest foil (similar to yours) I think I was on the second from front mark on the mast track.

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phoilingphil said..
My footstraps are close to the same, maybe a setting further forward due to using iQfoil. Sounds like a stabilizer shim issue. Maybe try 0 degree shim with the 330? What is the fuse length?

Thanks - I'm using a 95 plus fuse. Yes, I think you're probably right that the 330 needs less negative shim than the 500.

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shaneNZ said..

BobbinAbout said..
Hi, I'm after some advice on board setup, as I seem to be one of the few remaining (and newish) foilers in Northern Ireland - everyone's turning to winging!
I'm using a Starboard Freeride (2022) 150 with a Starboard Freeride 1100 foil (have 500 and 330 rear wings) and Severne Foilglide sails (6, 7 and 8m).
I have my footstraps set as follows (would have posted a photo, but can't):
Front strap - outside row, middle holes
Rear strap - centre row, rear holes
I'm usually sailing with the UJ just aft of centre, and have only tried the -2 and -1.5 shim for the rear wing (only just swapped to the 330). And for info, I'm about 80 Kgs.
I found when overpowered using the 500 rear wing, I struggled to keep the foil in the water (hence front strap fairly far forward). Yesterday trying the 330 wing with -2 shim and a 6m foil glide in 15-20 kgs of wind, not for the first time, I struggled to keep the board out of the water, although did have it successfully 'low flying' at 20 Kts a few times (hence rear strap fully back).

Any tips on setup of board (and foil) gratefully received! Thanks.

I have the same board. Different foil now, but on my older foil it would have been similar. Answer is to move you mast base forward a cm at a time until the board feels balanced. It do it on the water - drop the sail, pop it off the UJ (but don't let it float away), move the mast base then bend the UJ over and reattach the sail. Done! I would start the mast base in the middle of the track and go from there. On my earliest foil (similar to yours) I think I was on the second from front mark on the mast track.

Thanks for that. On advice from a friend who used to windfoil, I have a hinged UJ on the foil board, so can fairly easily alter the position on the water. Will try moving the UJ further forward with the 500 rear and see what that feels like.
Were you using the Starboard recommended shim v wind speed?

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BobbinAbout said..

shaneNZ said..

BobbinAbout said..
Hi, I'm after some advice on board setup, as I seem to be one of the few remaining (and newish) foilers in Northern Ireland - everyone's turning to winging!
I'm using a Starboard Freeride (2022) 150 with a Starboard Freeride 1100 foil (have 500 and 330 rear wings) and Severne Foilglide sails (6, 7 and 8m).
I have my footstraps set as follows (would have posted a photo, but can't):
Front strap - outside row, middle holes
Rear strap - centre row, rear holes
I'm usually sailing with the UJ just aft of centre, and have only tried the -2 and -1.5 shim for the rear wing (only just swapped to the 330). And for info, I'm about 80 Kgs.
I found when overpowered using the 500 rear wing, I struggled to keep the foil in the water (hence front strap fairly far forward). Yesterday trying the 330 wing with -2 shim and a 6m foil glide in 15-20 kgs of wind, not for the first time, I struggled to keep the board out of the water, although did have it successfully 'low flying' at 20 Kts a few times (hence rear strap fully back).

Any tips on setup of board (and foil) gratefully received! Thanks.

I have the same board. Different foil now, but on my older foil it would have been similar. Answer is to move you mast base forward a cm at a time until the board feels balanced. It do it on the water - drop the sail, pop it off the UJ (but don't let it float away), move the mast base then bend the UJ over and reattach the sail. Done! I would start the mast base in the middle of the track and go from there. On my earliest foil (similar to yours) I think I was on the second from front mark on the mast track.

Thanks for that. On advice from a friend who used to windfoil, I have a hinged UJ on the foil board, so can fairly easily alter the position on the water. Will try moving the UJ further forward with the 500 rear and see what that feels like.
Were you using the Starboard recommended shim v wind speed?

Re shims - the starboard recommended shim guide on the website is totally wrong. I have a IQ foil set now. The shim guide recommends use of the whole range of shims (-2 to +2) but no one does. We have a big fleet of iq sailors and no one uses anything but the +.5 or the +1 (keep in mind this is with the 255 -2 rear wing) so that's 2degrees less stab angle (ieflatter) than the the standard 255 wing. I haven't used the 330 rear wing, but I had an original 255 and only ever used the -1.5 or -1 (to end up at the same place as above). Remember minus shims flatten the stab (so flatter, faster but less lift). Plus shims increase the stab angle (so more nose down, more lift but more drag).

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shaneNZ said..

BobbinAbout said..

shaneNZ said..

BobbinAbout said..
Hi, I'm after some advice on board setup, as I seem to be one of the few remaining (and newish) foilers in Northern Ireland - everyone's turning to winging!
I'm using a Starboard Freeride (2022) 150 with a Starboard Freeride 1100 foil (have 500 and 330 rear wings) and Severne Foilglide sails (6, 7 and 8m).
I have my footstraps set as follows (would have posted a photo, but can't):
Front strap - outside row, middle holes
Rear strap - centre row, rear holes
I'm usually sailing with the UJ just aft of centre, and have only tried the -2 and -1.5 shim for the rear wing (only just swapped to the 330). And for info, I'm about 80 Kgs.
I found when overpowered using the 500 rear wing, I struggled to keep the foil in the water (hence front strap fairly far forward). Yesterday trying the 330 wing with -2 shim and a 6m foil glide in 15-20 kgs of wind, not for the first time, I struggled to keep the board out of the water, although did have it successfully 'low flying' at 20 Kts a few times (hence rear strap fully back).

Any tips on setup of board (and foil) gratefully received! Thanks.

I have the same board. Different foil now, but on my older foil it would have been similar. Answer is to move you mast base forward a cm at a time until the board feels balanced. It do it on the water - drop the sail, pop it off the UJ (but don't let it float away), move the mast base then bend the UJ over and reattach the sail. Done! I would start the mast base in the middle of the track and go from there. On my earliest foil (similar to yours) I think I was on the second from front mark on the mast track.

Thanks for that. On advice from a friend who used to windfoil, I have a hinged UJ on the foil board, so can fairly easily alter the position on the water. Will try moving the UJ further forward with the 500 rear and see what that feels like.
Were you using the Starboard recommended shim v wind speed?

Re shims - the starboard recommended shim guide on the website is totally wrong. I have a IQ foil set now. The shim guide recommends use of the whole range of shims (-2 to +2) but no one does. We have a big fleet of iq sailors and no one uses anything but the +.5 or the +1 (keep in mind this is with the 255 -2 rear wing) so that's 2degrees less stab angle (ieflatter) than the the standard 255 wing. I haven't used the 330 rear wing, but I had an original 255 and only ever used the -1.5 or -1 (to end up at the same place as above). Remember minus shims flatten the stab (so flatter, faster but less lift). Plus shims increase the stab angle (so more nose down, more lift but more drag).

That's really useful, thanks.
Considering trying to get hold of a 105 plus fuse for when I start using my 800 wing (with 330 rear initially) - assume that combination would be better than the 95 plus for light/moderate conditions reaching?

I think the 330 stab is to big for 800 wing.
When using a longer fuselage the stab can be smaller.
A 255 stab would be better.

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BobbinAbout said..

shaneNZ said..

BobbinAbout said..

shaneNZ said..

BobbinAbout said..
Hi, I'm after some advice on board setup, as I seem to be one of the few remaining (and newish) foilers in Northern Ireland - everyone's turning to winging!
I'm using a Starboard Freeride (2022) 150 with a Starboard Freeride 1100 foil (have 500 and 330 rear wings) and Severne Foilglide sails (6, 7 and 8m).
I have my footstraps set as follows (would have posted a photo, but can't):
Front strap - outside row, middle holes
Rear strap - centre row, rear holes
I'm usually sailing with the UJ just aft of centre, and have only tried the -2 and -1.5 shim for the rear wing (only just swapped to the 330). And for info, I'm about 80 Kgs.
I found when overpowered using the 500 rear wing, I struggled to keep the foil in the water (hence front strap fairly far forward). Yesterday trying the 330 wing with -2 shim and a 6m foil glide in 15-20 kgs of wind, not for the first time, I struggled to keep the board out of the water, although did have it successfully 'low flying' at 20 Kts a few times (hence rear strap fully back).

Any tips on setup of board (and foil) gratefully received! Thanks.

I have the same board. Different foil now, but on my older foil it would have been similar. Answer is to move you mast base forward a cm at a time until the board feels balanced. It do it on the water - drop the sail, pop it off the UJ (but don't let it float away), move the mast base then bend the UJ over and reattach the sail. Done! I would start the mast base in the middle of the track and go from there. On my earliest foil (similar to yours) I think I was on the second from front mark on the mast track.

Thanks for that. On advice from a friend who used to windfoil, I have a hinged UJ on the foil board, so can fairly easily alter the position on the water. Will try moving the UJ further forward with the 500 rear and see what that feels like.
Were you using the Starboard recommended shim v wind speed?

Re shims - the starboard recommended shim guide on the website is totally wrong. I have a IQ foil set now. The shim guide recommends use of the whole range of shims (-2 to +2) but no one does. We have a big fleet of iq sailors and no one uses anything but the +.5 or the +1 (keep in mind this is with the 255 -2 rear wing) so that's 2degrees less stab angle (ieflatter) than the the standard 255 wing. I haven't used the 330 rear wing, but I had an original 255 and only ever used the -1.5 or -1 (to end up at the same place as above). Remember minus shims flatten the stab (so flatter, faster but less lift). Plus shims increase the stab angle (so more nose down, more lift but more drag).

That's really useful, thanks.
Considering trying to get hold of a 105 plus fuse for when I start using my 800 wing (with 330 rear initially) - assume that combination would be better than the 95 plus for light/moderate conditions reaching?

Ive never used the 95 fuse, but no-one seems to like it very much. I have the 105Evo fuse. It's a really nice balance - works with big or small wings. The other fuse that is actually amazing is the original black 115. Really stable for slalom/reaching. Even the pro riders still like it.

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Cornholio said..
I think the 330 stab is to big for 800 wing.
When using a longer fuselage the stab can be smaller.
A 255 stab would be better.

Interesting. I think the Starboard GTR package was a 95+ fuse with 800 and 330.
I'll see if I can get hold of a 255 rear and 105+.
Thanks for the advice.

my 2c worth
I have the Freeride 1100, 95 fuselage, and always use 330 stab instead of 500 - find that -1 shim works well, -1.5 is even better just need a bit more speed to fly
amazing that you can really feel differences with 0.5 changes in shims, and/ or tiny shifts in mast base position
when it is all balanced OK, I seem to adjust ride height just with front hand pressure on the boom ...
I'm 95kg and only average skill levels

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BobbinAbout said..

Cornholio said..
I think the 330 stab is to big for 800 wing.
When using a longer fuselage the stab can be smaller.
A 255 stab would be better.

Interesting. I think the Starboard GTR package was a 95+ fuse with 800 and 330.
I'll see if I can get hold of a 255 rear and 105+.
Thanks for the advice.

The 330 is probably more stable for someone starting out but also draggier. With just a touch of time on the water and more comfort at speed, you find the small stab sufficiently stable and more reactive in the good sense of being able to adjust ride height quickly to respond to subtle changes in water or wind.

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Searoamer said..
my 2c worth
I have the Freeride 1100, 95 fuselage, and always use 330 stab instead of 500 - find that -1 shim works well, -1.5 is even better just need a bit more speed to fly
amazing that you can really feel differences with 0.5 changes in shims, and/ or tiny shifts in mast base position
when it is all balanced OK, I seem to adjust ride height just with front hand pressure on the boom ...
I'm 95kg and only average skill levels

Thanks for that - yes next time I use the 330 rear I'll use the -1 and keep the -2 in the box!

Final question....there don't seem to be any 105+ fuselages in the UK at present, used or new. Is the 115+ going to be 'too sporty' for someone of average ability when they make the jump from the Freeride foil to something faster (with 800 front and 255 rear)?

www.windfoilen.nl/en/review-starboard-plus-fuselages/


Explanes difference between 95+ and 115+ , read the test that helps i think.

But for 115+ you need the 255-2 backwing ,makes life easyer then the 255??

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California said..
www.windfoilen.nl/en/review-starboard-plus-fuselages/


Explanes difference between 95+ and 115+ , read the test that helps i think.

But for 115+ you need the 255-2 backwing ,makes life easyer then the 255??

The 115+ fuse is fine for anything. It's what I use the most. You can use either the 255 -2 or the original 255. You just use different shims to compensate: +.5 or +1 for the -2 wing, or -1 or -1.5 with the original. I've used both

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shaneNZ said..

California said..
www.windfoilen.nl/en/review-starboard-plus-fuselages/


Explanes difference between 95+ and 115+ , read the test that helps i think.

But for 115+ you need the 255-2 backwing ,makes life easyer then the 255??

The 115+ fuse is fine for anything. It's what I use the most. You can use either the 255 -2 or the original 255. You just use different shims to compensate: +.5 or +1 for the -2 wing, or -1 or -1.5 with the original. I've used both

Many thanks for all the tips. I'll disappear and get some time on the water!
I'll consider getting a 115+ if there are no 105s to be had.

So since my last post I've acquired an Evo (1) 105 fuse, which came with a 650 FW(!). I've also just picked up a new Evo (1) 900 FW. Do I try the 900 with a 330 or 255 RW? Assuming once I progress to the 650, it will run with the 255 - that could be sometime though!!
Flights with the 95+ and 800 FW/330 RW going well, although the wind recently (in Northern Ireland) seems to have been all or nothing, so not getting quite as many sessions as I'd hoped. It's also getting quite cold!!
thanks.

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BobbinAbout said..
So since my last post I've acquired an Evo (1) 105 fuse, which came with a 650 FW(!). I've also just picked up a new Evo (1) 900 FW. Do I try the 900 with a 330 or 255 RW? Assuming once I progress to the 650, it will run with the 255 - that could be sometime though!!
Flights with the 95+ and 800 FW/330 RW going well, although the wind recently (in Northern Ireland) seems to have been all or nothing, so not getting quite as many sessions as I'd hoped. It's also getting quite cold!!
thanks.

I've never personally run the 900 or less with the big 330 tail, however I did run someone else's 1300/330 setup like that. Worth trying the 255 with 105 and having some shim. With the 255(-2) I run +0.5 or +1.0 on the 105+.

Once flying though the 650, 550, 725 all feel very similar but the takeoff does change and you don't want to fly them underpowered because they get squirrelly at low speeds.

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aeroegnr said..

BobbinAbout said..
So since my last post I've acquired an Evo (1) 105 fuse, which came with a 650 FW(!). I've also just picked up a new Evo (1) 900 FW. Do I try the 900 with a 330 or 255 RW? Assuming once I progress to the 650, it will run with the 255 - that could be sometime though!!
Flights with the 95+ and 800 FW/330 RW going well, although the wind recently (in Northern Ireland) seems to have been all or nothing, so not getting quite as many sessions as I'd hoped. It's also getting quite cold!!
thanks.

I've never personally run the 900 or less with the big 330 tail, however I did run someone else's 1300/330 setup like that. Worth trying the 255 with 105 and having some shim. With the 255(-2) I run +0.5 or +1.0 on the 105+.

Once flying though the 650, 550, 725 all feel very similar but the takeoff does change and you don't want to fly them underpowered because they get squirrelly at low speeds.

Great, many thanks for the tips. I'll try the 255 with it hopefully on Saturday - the breeze is looking good!

I've got the freeride 150 with a 1300 superflyer, 102 fuselage, and 330 rear wing. Just over the water from you in the lake district.
I've found the shims to have the biggest effect, assuming vaguely centred footstraps and mast base.
With a big heavy 7.8 camber induced rig the 0 degree is fine, as the weight and drive from the rig presses the nose down nicely.
For smaller lighter rigs in enough wind to be going well (15-20kts typically) I need the - 2 degree shim to keep the nose down. Moving the mast foot a little forwards can help with this too. And don't even think about sheeting out in gusts, turn it up wind instead.
For smaller lighter rigs struggling to get up and going it's back to the 0 degree shim and mastfoot centred.
Keeping the shims and tool handy for gusty lake sailing helps speed up the faffing!
That's about it for what I've worked out so far. Your setup will have different numbers, but I think the principles should be similar. But I stand ready to be corrected! Good fun this foiling game!

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SBGroupie said..
I've got the freeride 150 with a 1300 superflyer, 102 fuselage, and 330 rear wing. Just over the water from you in the lake district.
I've found the shims to have the biggest effect, assuming vaguely centred footstraps and mast base.
With a big heavy 7.8 camber induced rig the 0 degree is fine, as the weight and drive from the rig presses the nose down nicely.
For smaller lighter rigs in enough wind to be going well (15-20kts typically) I need the - 2 degree shim to keep the nose down. Moving the mast foot a little forwards can help with this too. And don't even think about sheeting out in gusts, turn it up wind instead.
For smaller lighter rigs struggling to get up and going it's back to the 0 degree shim and mastfoot centred.
Keeping the shims and tool handy for gusty lake sailing helps speed up the faffing!
That's about it for what I've worked out so far. Your setup will have different numbers, but I think the principles should be similar. But I stand ready to be corrected! Good fun this foiling game!

Thanks for your response - always good to hear what others are doing, as I'm one of only a few windfoiling rather than winging on Belfast Lough.
I agree with your comments on the big sail. When I use my Foilglide 8m it definitely has more weight and UJ position is more central. I haven't sailed it with less than the -1.
Having tried the 105 Evo fuse once, it seems more stable. I'm using a -2 deg 255 RW with either a +1 or +0.5 so far. Today will hopefully allow another session!
You're right about sheeting out v going upwind. I've found myself trying to get back downwind safely a few times!
Thanks again for your feedback.

What do you think of the foil glide 8m? I'm wondering if it would be a worthwhile improvement over my 2008 Tushingham lightning 7.8 (similar 2 cam arrangement). Pricey as I'll need a new mast too.

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SBGroupie said..
What do you think of the foil glide 8m? I'm wondering if it would be a worthwhile improvement over my 2008 Tushingham lightning 7.8 (similar 2 cam arrangement). Pricey as I'll need a new mast too.

I tend to use the 8m in 10-14Kts of breeze. It's stable and fairly easy to handle (not too heavy) and works well with my current foil setup (Starboard Eco 105 fuse, with 900FW and 255 RW). I got mine secondhand, and it sets on the same 460 RDM mast as my 6m and 7m Foilglides. The Foilglides are taller and shorter in the boom than a 'normal' sail, and I'm really enjoying using them.

Thanks. How much difference is there in lowest foil able wind speed between the 8 and 7? Which size do you use the most? Does the 8 make a sensible biggest sail? Big costs for me as I'll need a new mast too, so having a good faff about it!

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SBGroupie said..
Thanks. How much difference is there in lowest foil able wind speed between the 8 and 7? Which size do you use the most? Does the 8 make a sensible biggest sail? Big costs for me as I'll need a new mast too, so having a good faff about it!

I don't think there's too much in it. Definitely 12-13Kts and the 7m should work. There's a fine line between extra power and the extra drag the bigger sail creates. I probably use my 7m more, although had a great session today on the 8m (in 11-14 Kts), but on a falling forecast. Pumping the 8m definitely gives you a good workout!!

For me the main issue for lighter winds is getting the right shim on the RW!

I have 6 and 7 FoilGlides, plus 8 Loft Skyscape
all great to use, definite gap between 7 and 8
did I see a review somewhere that FoilGlides 7 and 8 actually closer than 1m2 in cut size .... hence not so different in performance ...
Loft came up 2nd hand, so grabbed it

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Searoamer said..
I have 6 and 7 FoilGlides, plus 8 Loft Skyscape
all great to use, definite gap between 7 and 8
did I see a review somewhere that FoilGlides 7 and 8 actually closer than 1m2 in cut size .... hence not so different in performance ...
Loft came up 2nd hand, so grabbed it

These are the 6.0, 7.0, 8.0 laid on top of each other Notice the 8.0 has cutout for a shorter boom. The 8.0 feels bigger than the 7.0 but not too terribly different. And helps some, but I end up using the 7.0 the most. Or I go to 9.0HGO

Thanks, all useful information.

So I bought an 8m foil glide 3. Been out on it 3 times, very pleased. Gets up and going in very little wind, using +0.5 shim, but doesn't get out of hand when the gusts get stronger. Actually felt relaxed and comfortable cruising at 16kts. Well, for a while at least!

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SBGroupie said..
So I bought an 8m foil glide 3. Been out on it 3 times, very pleased. Gets up and going in very little wind, using +0.5 shim, but doesn't get out of hand when the gusts get stronger. Actually felt relaxed and comfortable cruising at 16kts. Well, for a while at least!

Don't be afraid to use the lower clew hole when it's windy. It'll extend the high end range quite a bit.