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Agree with thedoor
The extra width in the tail of the Wizard makes gybing easier

I know a wider tails makes gybing easier, just never understood why. Anyone got an explanation a simpleton to understand?

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Panno said..

Agree with thedoor
The extra width in the tail of the Wizard makes gybing easier

I know a wider tails makes gybing easier, just never understood why. Anyone got an explanation a simpleton to understand?

More dancing room . More room for switching feet during jibe, so more forgiving on less than perfect foot placement. Can't compensate for a jibe that's headed south if there's no board to put your foot on (narrow tail) to compensate.

can anyone comment on the quality of the freestyle v2? the older models also the wizard hat some weird anti slip material on it that you can scratch off easily.. is there any change exept for the handle and the tracks?

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snapback said..
can anyone comment on the quality of the freestyle v2? the older models also the wizard hat some weird anti slip material on it that you can scratch off easily.. is there any change exept for the handle and the tracks?

the freestyle V1
slingshotsports.com/collections/windsurf-sale/products/freestyle
is absolutely awesome. Never had any issue with nonskid but I never stand up the front so wouldn't matter if it did

I haven't ridden the V3
slingshotsports.com/collections/windsurf-foil-boards/products/freestyle-v3-windsurf-foil-board

As far as I could tell the V2 is basically the same shape as V1 with longer tracks, and a handle, no tuttle box

V3 looks same as V2 at least from the website, but never seen one in person. Looks like web developers mis-used some of the wording from the old V2 page talking about longer tracks and adding the handle, which they added in V2

The V1 is an awesome board and unless you like a hecka lot of front foot pressure the shorter tracks are fine. If I didn't own two V1s I would definitely pay the extra $450 for the V2

I don't know about the track positions on the v2, which is the same construction as the v1 with the exception of the large high density foam block in the tail to support the Tuttle box - which I didnt use as it was located too far back.

v3 has a different construction and is lighter and noticeably stiffer then my v1 (which has a lot of miles on it)

Now that I have had the v3 for a while, I find the longer tracks to be beneficial. My current setup has the foil farther forward and the mast base further back than what is possible on the v1. If v2 has the same track positions as v3, it is worth upgrading over the v1. Otherwise you can get v1 boards for stupid cheap right now.

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jdfoils said..


v3 has a different construction and is lighter and noticeably stiffer then my v1 (which has a lot of miles on it)

" The V3 is noticeably stiffer" How do you tell as the board is up in the air?

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Gwarn said..

jdfoils said..


v3 has a different construction and is lighter and noticeably stiffer then my v1 (which has a lot of miles on it)

" The V3 is noticeably stiffer" How do you tell as the board is up in the air?

Flex between the foil mount and the mast base causes a slight delay in response to inputs and pumping. I didn't notice it until I got the v3 board, then it was immediately obvious.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Now this gave me a good laugh...

The flex of the board created a delayed response to your inputs.
Just when I thought I heard it all....

hi folks...i ride the fs115 v1 for over 1 year with a tuttle phantasm prototype mast.
now i changed to the wide 103 with rail and after a few sessions i have the following problem..the rails are lifting at the ends.
after contacting slingshot they confirmed to me that several boards from wyatt had the same problem, but continued to use them without any problems.
does anyone have the same experience?? this is certainly not normal.
I now use the jack plate.... as a precaution.

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foil4ever said..
hi folks...i ride the fs115 v1 for over 1 year with a tuttle phantasm prototype mast.
now i changed to the wide 103 with rail and after a few sessions i have the following problem..the rails are lifting at the ends.
after contacting slingshot they confirmed to me that several boards from wyatt had the same problem, but continued to use them without any problems.
does anyone have the same experience?? this is certainly not normal.
I now use the jack plate.... as a precaution.

I'd call it core delamination! An extreme case (a bubble) can be seen at boardlady.com/bottombubble.htm. Just judging by the amounts of complains on forum, and what happened to the boards I could follow in the 2018-2022 seasons (now almost nobody around here wind foils) I would never buy a slingshot board.

Good luck to you!

If the boxes lifted after you used them then the only thing holding then in is the skin of the board,
All that it's going to take is one hard strike of debris or a fish to pull it out all the way.
I'd love to see a picture of the tuttle phantasm mast....

I have seen a similar thing with other boards and components. My understanding is that it is usually caused by over-time shrinkage of the eps under the skin layers. Board makers have told me the bonding is still good and can still be used. I have had no problems with structural failure or delamination at such spots.

I have now once used the jake plate adapter, unfortunately with 650g a bit heavy but when flying you notice nothing.
but these elevations of the rails are gone, probably by the pressure of the plate.
this will happen again for sure without jake plate....
@gwarn..here the proto...massive construction, 2cm wider than the current version, 2.85kg
and yes....slingshot quality?...here is an example of wizard and phantasm from a colleague...he also has rail problems...and a soft deck...i have not seen a wizzard that was not soft after 1 year...my old v1 also...

No issues with my 114 V3 wizard after 2 years. I am hobbit size, but I get a ridiculous amount of water time. I've cracked through the edge of the side of the board from handling, but no track issues. The wall thickness is very thin, but weight reduction has to come with sacrifices I suppose.

how about the following repair idea....drill 2 small holes in the rails at each end of the rails, inject epoxy, jake plate to press?..same principle as soft decks?

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foil4ever said..
how about the following repair idea....drill 2 small holes in the rails at each end of the rails, inject epoxy, jake plate to press?..same principle as soft decks?

I do not think it is such a good idea to inject epoxy into a eps cored board? And there is no guarantee that it would do anything to stop the damage. Much better to do the job right, figure out the extent of delamination (check that the box is not broken!) and than do one a through job like => boardlady.com/softopbuckle.htm