Hi all. I want to make a 95cm fuse but don't really know where to start. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Will be making it from aluminium I assume (won't be using carbon). I'm fine with tapping threads, cutting , grinding, filing, drilling aluminium etc. Things I'm thinking about are: hollow or solid aluminium, how to make wing connections and threads. How to make mast to fuse connection and threads and how streamline does fuse need to be. Also place/ location of connections on fuse. I probably haven't considered other things I'm not aware of hence asking for help here. I'm aware a home made fuse will probably not perform like a brand made / factory made one, but if it works I'll be happy. I just want to stiffen up pitch etc for one of my wings without having to buy a new fuse AND mast, as the 95cm Naish fuse I ideally need is only compatible with the new masts, not the older mast which I have.

Any help appreciated.

There are people here that have made fuses out of steel/aluminum. I think it's probably the easiest component to make of the foil kit.

My background is more design/theory but I think you'd be better off with solid aluminum vs. hollow. I think a lot of the reason that companies end up going with solid aluminum fuses instead of carbon is that the fuses are short enough that shear strength/stiffness really matters, and you don't get shear strength/stiffness effectively with carbon. Especially with hollow. Aluminum will have a similar issue. I haven't run the math on it but I suspect that is the case.

Others can give much better tips on the connections. You probably want a good anodizing finish of some sort.

Having access to a mill to hollow out for the mast connect would help. Knowing someone with a machine shop would really help,I have seen some very plane looking fuse that function just fine.

Solid aluminum, otherwise it will snap, make sure it get anodized, and deep anodizing, that was something i didn't understand when custom built mine, local CNC shop in my case.... sounds like you don't have design yet. I made my choice based on availability of wings/stabs Gong was s good choice for my project, unless you what to make those too.

I have access to a full non-CNC machine shop and I wouldn't bother. Unless you have significantly more time than money plus a lot of equipment it's also cheaper to buy off the shelf.

Maybe you could start making a fuse extender, much less work and it would give you an idea of the performance

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Gong started
making fusilage extenders for front and back now, mine on backorder... another month. In the mean time, I tested their new fusilage + fluid XLT + new high profile stab fluid 45 as is without the extender. Did work, was able to complite 80% of jibes, and new mid to high foil set had super slipper, low drag feel to it. Short fusilage made it super sensitive, lost some upwind and early take off or i just need to deal into it more, who know i might like short fusilage after all

Thanks all.

Have Jim Stringfellow build you a custom one, about a year ago he was charging $250.
jim@livewireprototyping.com

If you still want to build your own, reach out to my buddy Nick. He goes by ToomuchEpoxy on the seabreeze standup foiling and winging forums. He has been building his own foiling gear and mixing gear from different brands for years now. He is a great guy and I'm sure he could point you in the right direction. Incidentally Nick has a different view about anodizing that I am starting to agree with. He doesn't anodize his aluminum parts and they hold up better. The anodizing will always get scratched or nicked and then all the corrosion energy gets focused on that spot causing deep pitting locally.

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utcminusfour said..
Incidentally Nick has a different view about anodizing that I am starting to agree with. He doesn't anodize his aluminum parts and they hold up better. The anodizing will always get scratched or nicked and then all the corrosion energy gets focused on that spot causing deep pitting locally.

That's super interesting - I've got a couple of aluminum fuses with deep corrosion pitting in a few spots, I presume the anodizing was scratched off in those parts.

Maybe I should sand the whole fuse removing the remaining anodizing and paint to even out the galvanic corrosion - what do you think?

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azymuth said..

utcminusfour said..
Incidentally Nick has a different view about anodizing that I am starting to agree with. He doesn't anodize his aluminum parts and they hold up better. The anodizing will always get scratched or nicked and then all the corrosion energy gets focused on that spot causing deep pitting locally.

That's super interesting - I've got a couple of aluminum fuses with deep corrosion pitting in a few spots, I presume the anodizing was scratched off in those parts.

Maybe I should sand the whole fuse removing the remaining anodizing and paint to even out the galvanic corrosion - what do you think?

I have most my products type 2 anodized. Type 2 grows the oxide layer .0005" above and below the surface of the base metal. Type 3 anodize is thicker, but cost more due to more precise temperature control and longer time needed to grow the oxide layer. Anodized surface is extremely hard, but not impact resistant, once you break through the "crust", all bets are off on corrosion resistance. You can alodine aluminum at home for corrosion resistance. It's goldish color of varying shades depending on the time immersed in the bath. It's typically used in aerospace to treat aluminum before painting. The chemicals are harsh, so proper PPE/ventilation should be observed. Anodizing from my sources is a minimum charge of $150.00, so I do batches of a 100 parts at a time. If it's a one off, I'll alodine if I need corrosion resistance.

If Nick's theory is right then sand it off and leave it bare. It's about creating more exposed aluminum. Everything corrodes a tiny bit rather than deep corrosion at inevitable chips in the coating. I think it pays to keep a coating of Epoxy, paint or fiberglass on the carbon wings for isolation. It's Way easier to keep carbon sealed than aluminum. Sadly the socketed carbon mast to aluminum fuse connections so popular right now are a recipe for deep crevice corrosion right where the loads are highest.

If you have the energy for sanding, go for it. It's not like it's your only fuse and it may keep it going longer. If it doesn't work it was nearly dead anyway. If you do it, let us know the results.

Ideally we would not be mixing these materials in saltwater.

I did not coat my fuselage in any way and the surface corrosion isn't significant. If I polished it there would be even less.
So I tend to the opinion that leaving them raw is best unless you can get Type 3 anodizing.

Miami:
Is that the new monocoque H series tail? I have the Fluid H42 coming along with the Veloce H-L front wing. I only bought the front extension not the rear.

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Grantmac said..
I did not coat my fuselage in any way and the surface corrosion isn't significant. If I polished it there would be even less.
So I tend to the opinion that leaving them raw is best unless you can get Type 3 anodizing.

Miami:
Is that the new monocoque H series tail? I have the Fluid H42 coming along with the Veloce H-L front wing. I only bought the front extension not the rear.

Yup, new short fusilage with triangular tail connection and H series stab, very nicely made, looks like art piece.
On corrosion topic, in Miami water salt content is high, temps warm an humid, aluminum in ocean without protection will corrode quick. We did try diff type of paint, etc. anodizing, specially if we'll done will last longer

Add a zinc anode....focuses the corrosion on the anode which is replaceable

I read on here and many forums about fuselage corrosion.
To me it's guys just being lazy.
These things are very small and it's only a few minutes to wash add a bit of polish.
If corrosion observed simply sand and paint with cheap spray paint.
All this may take 30 minutes total in a year.

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utcminusfour said..
Have Jim Stringfellow build you a custom one, about a year ago he was charging $250.
jim@livewireprototyping.com

If you still want to build your own, reach out to my buddy Nick. He goes by ToomuchEpoxy on the seabreeze standup foiling and winging forums. He has been building his own foiling gear and mixing gear from different brands for years now. He is a great guy and I'm sure he could point you in the right direction. Incidentally Nick has a different view about anodizing that I am starting to agree with. He doesn't anodize his aluminum parts and they hold up better. The anodizing will always get scratched or nicked and then all the corrosion energy gets focused on that spot causing deep pitting locally.

Thanks mate. I'll get in contact with Nick.

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miamiwindsurfe said..

Grantmac said..
I did not coat my fuselage in any way and the surface corrosion isn't significant. If I polished it there would be even less.
So I tend to the opinion that leaving them raw is best unless you can get Type 3 anodizing.

Miami:
Is that the new monocoque H series tail? I have the Fluid H42 coming along with the Veloce H-L front wing. I only bought the front extension not the rear.

Yup, new short fusilage with triangular tail connection and H series stab, very nicely made, looks like art piece.
On corrosion topic, in Miami water salt content is high, temps warm an humid, aluminum in ocean without protection will corrode quick. We did try diff type of paint, etc. anodizing, specially if we'll done will last longer

Is the overall length of the new fuselage and tail shorter than the old setup? Same front wing position?

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Grantmac said..

miamiwindsurfe said..

Grantmac said..
I did not coat my fuselage in any way and the surface corrosion isn't significant. If I polished it there would be even less.
So I tend to the opinion that leaving them raw is best unless you can get Type 3 anodizing.

Miami:
Is that the new monocoque H series tail? I have the Fluid H42 coming along with the Veloce H-L front wing. I only bought the front extension not the rear.

Yup, new short fusilage with triangular tail connection and H series stab, very nicely made, looks like art piece.
On corrosion topic, in Miami water salt content is high, temps warm an humid, aluminum in ocean without protection will corrode quick. We did try diff type of paint, etc. anodizing, specially if we'll done will last longer

Is the overall length of the new fuselage and tail shorter than the old setup? Same front wing position?

My old fusillage is custom, pushing front wing 12 cm forward, overall length front wing to trailing age of stab is 86 vs new standard(without) extension as is 75cm. In combination of using it on my new board where fin box is 6 cm forward approx and mast track back, etc ... Was able to do jibes, so maybe i can get away with 'normal' wing sized fusillage. If they re open beaches by tomorrow in Miami(Ian...), might be able to test in higher winds

Is that measurement from the front of the front wing? I will measure my foil this afternoon. I'm hoping it's shorter since the original fuselage is quite long.

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Grantmac said..
Is that measurement from the front of the front wing? I will measure my foil this afternoon. I'm hoping it's shorter since the original fuselage is quite long.

Leading edge of front wing to trailing of the stab, don't think Gong changed overall dimensions

I made one out of square 25mm aluminium using basic tool, angle grinder, file etc. Took a long time to get it shaped. Hard to drill the holes in the right place. Works well though, can be done, but does take more time than you think.

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warwickl said..
I read on here and many forums about fuselage corrosion.
To me it's guys just being lazy.
These things are very small and it's only a few minutes to wash add a bit of polish.
If corrosion observed simply sand and paint with cheap spray paint.
All this may take 30 minutes total in a year.

I take apart my foil completely every session and wash everything (including every single bolt and thread) yet i still get corrosion in my fuselarge. What am i doing wrong lol?

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Roy1000 said..
I take apart my foil completely every session and wash everything (including every single bolt and thread) yet i still get corrosion in my fuselarge. What am i doing wrong lol?

Roy from my experience (and do as you do) I think the corrosion you are getting happens in the water during the session, after you dismantle and wash and lube it stops
Cheers Rod

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Freeflight said..Roy from my experience (and do as you do) I think the corrosion you are getting happens in the water during the session, after you dismantle and wash and lube it stops

Cheers Rod

I agree, I think the galvanic corrosion is happening in the water during the session.

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azymuth said..

Freeflight said..Roy from my experience (and do as you do) I think the corrosion you are getting happens in the water during the session, after you dismantle and wash and lube it stops

Cheers Rod

I agree, I think the galvanic corrosion is happening in the water during the session.

Well you are on the water almost every day for hours at a time JJ!

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Freeflight said..

Roy1000 said..
I take apart my foil completely every session and wash everything (including every single bolt and thread) yet i still get corrosion in my fuselarge. What am i doing wrong lol?

Roy from my experience (and do as you do) I think the corrosion you are getting happens in the water during the session, after you dismantle and wash and lube it stops
Cheers Rod

Thanks!

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Freeflight said..

Roy1000 said..
I take apart my foil completely every session and wash everything (including every single bolt and thread) yet i still get corrosion in my fuselarge. What am i doing wrong lol?

Roy from my experience (and do as you do) I think the corrosion you are getting happens in the water during the session, after you dismantle and wash and lube it stops
Cheers Rod

what lube do you use?
I've heard guys just tef gel them together and leave it forever

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azymuth said..

utcminusfour said..
Incidentally Nick has a different view about anodizing that I am starting to agree with. He doesn't anodize his aluminum parts and they hold up better. The anodizing will always get scratched or nicked and then all the corrosion energy gets focused on that spot causing deep pitting locally.

That's super interesting - I've got a couple of aluminum fuses with deep corrosion pitting in a few spots, I presume the anodizing was scratched off in those parts.

Maybe I should sand the whole fuse removing the remaining anodizing and paint to even out the galvanic corrosion - what do you think?

Azymuth, did you try sanding off the anodizing? My Sabfoil 1100 mm fuse has nicks in it which have grown to a not insignificant size. I believe Sabfoil no longer makes this fuselage, which entirely pisses me off. I get improving design but wholesale change of connection types is really annoying. Anyways, I've coated the corroding areas with Boeshield t-9, that might help a bit and buy me some time.

I've also thought about buying some carbon rod and getting it machined but I don't know if that's a good idea or not. I don't really know the shear and bending forces on a fuselage, nor do I know the characteristics of carbon rod.

Ideally, when manufacturers deprecated a design they would make it open source so that people can build replacement parts. Iirc, slingshot used to do something similar with past designs.

If the objection is that people would make money off the old design, that says it would be somewhat profitable continuing to supply replacement parts to the market.

If I had an aluminum fuselage I would paint it with Rustoelum enamel paint and top coat with Rustoelum clear enamel (automotive spray can), let cure 48 hrs between coats and before top coat of clear, then let cure 7 days after final coat before exposing to water. It does off gas for those 7 days, so need a place with low humidity that is warm to cure outside of living/breathing space (for my board, I used a spare bathroom with vent fan running on low). And I would treat the screws and inserts with Boeshield T-9 on a regular basis, it leaves a coat of hard wax over the anti corrosion chemicals, can spray into a condiment cup and use a Q-tip to apply (uses a lot less versus spraying), but I think you can also buy it in a regular bottle too.