First surf today. It was messy and windy and waves going everywhere

First wave straight drop and in, second wave go to turn a little and ended up doing a 180 turn and of the back. Third wave i nose dived and went over the falls upside down(that was before i even stood up)[}:)] I think the lifeguard was pissing himself watching on as i was just North of the flags

Eventually got a few, and it felt after i got my Front foot right i was off and running.. Buoyant though and after a little over an hour i went in feeling what could only be described as sea sick

All in all it was nice to be short again. I found you could tuck it in easy and even just take straight drops (bigger sets just closing out) with out nose diving. I will predict that this board will hurt me. I landed just near or almost on it too many times for my liking
Will be nice to get into some cleaner waves..