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TimKay said...
I think the longer you have surfed the more important it is to have the ability to drive away from the surf when it's crap
If it's highly obvious that theres too many people and it's not going to be fun it's best to go do something else
There's something really pathetic about grown men fighting over 1 ft close outs
Or drive to a spot that's a lot further away and a lot less crowded maybe.
The older I get the happier I am surfing B or even C waves without any hassle. I've had some great sessions with only two out in 2 to 3' onshore conditions with just enough shape to pull off some turns. At least in those conditions you can surf until you're exhausted and drive home happy.
I do agree with what you said about grown men fighting over 1 ft close outs, it's not a good look.