Anyone else order boards that they have thought long and hard about then immediately begin questioning, second guessing or regretting things?

Should it be a tad longer/shorter/thicker/wider? Should there be concaves/vee/magic dust? Oh god now I am thinking about the subtleties of rocker and foil.....aaaaaarrrrrgh.....


Should it be more similar or more different to what I already have?

Does that hole in the quiver truly exist?

well to be honest you have so many boards at your disposal already I would think that you have almost every situation covered - although there is aways room for an improvement across the quiver. I normally find that when I get the custom in my hands that I wish it was slightly different. Thats one of the reasons I normally buy off the rack these days if I see something I want. Takes the post purchase doubts away I am sure your board will be fine.

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Ted the Kiwi said...
well to be honest you have so many boards at your disposal already I would think that you have almost every situation covered - although there is aways room for an improvement across the quiver. I normally find that when I get the custom in my hands that I wish it was slightly different. Thats one of the reasons I normally buy off the rack these days if I see something I want. Takes the post purchase doubts away I am sure your board will be fine.

Lol. It's EVERY board.

And, unfortunately, I rarely see stuff on the racks I want. Thankfully, one of the boards I see in my local shop that I like the look of is a copy of a custom I got made. They liked it so much they made a stock board of it. And are selling it for $400 cheaper. Bastardos.

The customs are always fine - but I just do mind miles.

Yep I reckon your right Drip...I think maybe it's what we have in our mind as a custom and the result is the shapers interpretation of what we tell them.

Went to pick up a custom once and when I saw it I thought..WTF is that..but then grew to love it

Only a couple of times,the last was the board Lacey currently owns,the threat on Bert Burgess volume verses area space was the one that had me selling it before I picked it up.

I went through a lot of boards in my younger days. Never thought so much about the boards, but the waves I was riding. Didn't really have anywhere near the variety of board shapes in the 80's like you have today. Not that I was aware of anyway. Basically just bought a new board when I snapped one which would usually be within a year...then I got a Rick Jackovich Alloy Joy & surfed that for about 15 years.

Other than having one main board & a 6'8 - 6'11 gun. I've only had more than a couple of boards the last few years. I guess some guys mid life crisis is like buying a Harley or a sports car. Mine has been surfboards. So I now have 9 & have bought & sold about 5 where as before I had them till death (snapped). Two of those boards I specifically did not like at all.

The Firewire Bouez board was fully not suited to my local waves, way too much rocker. Made me realize I like flat rocker with late kick in the nose & tail rocker but flat through the middle...the other board was a short narrow 666, basically not worth having coz I'd rather surf anything else given the conditions it would go well in.

I stroked a board today for 20 mins. Been in love with them for a while. Hard to hold back. If we win tonight I will celebrate with a purchase.

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Ted the Kiwi said..
I stroked a board today for 20 mins. Been in love with them for a while. Hard to hold back. If we win tonight I will celebrate with a purchase.

What do you mean if we win tonight? you have been standing up yelling how good your lot are and how crap the Aussies are and on game day your pulling your head in,nerves will do that

it really should be if we lose - as I have a nice emotional hedge at $9 on the Wallabies - placed it about 12 months ago ! Bargain.

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MickPC said...
I went through a lot of boards in my younger days. Never thought so much about the boards, but the waves I was riding. Didn't really have anywhere near the variety of board shapes in the 80's like you have today. Not that I was aware of anyway. Basically just bought a new board when I snapped one which would usually be within a year...then I got a Rick Jackovich Alloy Joy & surfed that for about 15 years.

Other than having one main board & a 6'8 - 6'11 gun. I've only had more than a couple of boards the last few years. I guess some guys mid life crisis is like buying a Harley or a sports car. Mine has been surfboards. So I now have 9 & have bought & sold about 5 where as before I had them till death (snapped). Two of those boards I specifically did not like at all.

The Firewire Bouez board was fully not suited to my local waves, way too much rocker. Made me realize I like flat rocker with late kick in the nose & tail rocker but flat through the middle...the other board was a short narrow 666, basically not worth having coz I'd rather surf anything else given the conditions it would go well in.

Ha ha there are so many different boards and shapes these days it's pretty dam confusing - kinda think I've only got money for one board and a thousand options what the hell to do? not quite like the 90s when one 6'6" was good for everything- as boring as that was it was kinda good too

Just buy it Ted

I've still got that 6'6". It's an old Katana. Ridiculously narrow, thin and rockered, but it surfed everything from waist to triple overhead. Then I would pull a 7'2".

I think most surfers can get by with a small, medium and big wave board. But the thing is there are so many different types of big wave boards, small wave boards and, you guessed it, medium wave boards. I can be a bit like Elvis in a restaurant.

The thing is the old 6'6" seemed to work in everything too - unless we were all just younger and fitter ?!
I can't decide what board I want anymore so I'm just gonna use what's in the shed. Got about 9 sitting in there most of which haven't been ridden in a while

We were younger/fitter & generally up against less opposition. Used to be just goat boats & LB riders we had to worry about. Although the goat boats died off through the 90's & LB's couldn't sit as deep as a SB on a lot of waves...but yeah, now you have opposition in numbers, fun boards, more rockered/refined LB's & 666'ers...its like you have to adapt if you want a wave lol. These days I'm choosing to use a board, not only on the waves but the type of crowd. Not that I'm complaining though, I'm loving the shorter/wider revolution.

Hey I don't wanna derail a good thread, but I could probably nail down to 4 boards for just about all conditions with a board name. Couldn't do that before hey, naming a board by name...it was just shaper & size. Never really thought much about width, but didn't like a board if it looked chunky. I'd pretty much just chase a board by length without giving much thought to anything else other than if I liked the look of it.

The Alloy Joy I rode for so long & still have is 6'8 x 18.5 x 2.5...looks so narrow to me now, doubt I'll ever go below 19.75 again

I go through this dilema all the time,to the disgust of SDR

my last board is the best example. I wanted it to be 6'x23 x 3. The del went to the computer and it came up with 6''6 x 22 x 2 3/4 with super refined rails.

i questioned him if that is right and he laughed. (SDR has not made a bad board yet for me) so i went along with it.

i got home and thought if it was thicker it would do this,and wider it would do that.

So my doubts were more that my dims were not being used.

Got the board and it is still blowing me away at how fun it is across way more conditions that i wanted it for.

moral of the story.

1 i should not worry
2 im lucky i dont make SDr do what i say,as i would have a shed full of dogs
3 its good to give honest feed back about your ability and your shaper will do the right thing
4 new boards always get me exited
5 thinking of my next board always gets me excited
6 dont listen to the experts in carparks or the internet

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Ted the Kiwi said..
it really should be if we lose - as I have a nice emotional hedge at $9 on the Wallabies - placed it about 12 months ago ! Bargain.

get out of here.


your unbelievable

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MickPC said...
We were younger/fitter & generally up against less opposition. Used to be just goat boats & LB riders we had to worry about. Although the goat boats died off through the 90's & LB's couldn't sit as deep as a SB on a lot of waves...but yeah, now you have opposition in numbers, fun boards, more rockered/refined LB's & 666'ers...its like you have to adapt if you want a wave lol. These days I'm choosing to use a board, not only on the waves but the type of crowd. Not that I'm complaining though, I'm loving the shorter/wider revolution.

Hey I don't wanna derail a good thread, but I could probably nail down to 4 boards for just about all conditions with a board name. Couldn't do that before hey, naming a board by name...it was just shaper & size. Never really thought much about width, but didn't like a board if it looked chunky. I'd pretty much just chase a board by length without giving much thought to anything else other than if I liked the look of it.

The Alloy Joy I rode for so long & still have is 6'8 x 18.5 x 2.5...looks so narrow to me now, doubt I'll ever go below 19.75 again

Yep was like width and thickness were almost fixed in the 90s and the only variable was length - I remember thinking I need more volume I'll order a 6'11 ha ha. I still think some of those boards went well in good waves though. It's gone from the sublime to the ridiculous - too few options to too many

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chrispy said...
I go through this dilema all the time,to the disgust of SDR

my last board is the best example. I wanted it to be 6'x23 x 3. The del went to the computer and it came up with 6''6 x 22 x 2 3/4 with super refined rails.

i questioned him if that is right and he laughed. (SDR has not made a bad board yet for me) so i went along with it.

i got home and thought if it was thicker it would do this,and wider it would do that.

So my doubts were more that my dims were not being used.

Got the board and it is still blowing me away at how fun it is across way more conditions that i wanted it for.

moral of the story.

1 i should not worry
2 im lucky i dont make SDr do what i say,as i would have a shed full of dogs
3 its good to give honest feed back about your ability and your shaper will do the right thing
4 new boards always get me exited
5 thinking of my next board always gets me excited
6 dont listen to the experts in carparks or the internet

I have stuffed a board up because the shaper listened to me (take more off the rails). For the last 12 years I open every conversation with "Don't listen to me, but here's what I want and what I'm thinking, you solve the problem."

Of course I have gone back and already knocked an inch off the width of the new board.

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laceys lane said..

Ted the Kiwi said..
it really should be if we lose - as I have a nice emotional hedge at $9 on the Wallabies - placed it about 12 months ago ! Bargain.

get out of here.


your unbelievable

typical kiwi ...bleeding black and white ...while utilizing the yellow brick road to Oz!

I bet with my head not my heart. Look if you are late to the party you can still get Oz to win by less than 12.5 points for $3.60 which seems pretty fair to me. If that was on the ABs I would be selling my Grandma and backing up the truck

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Ted the Kiwi said..
I bet with my head not my heart. Look if you are late to the party you can still get Oz to win by less than 12.5 points for $3.60 which seems pretty fair to me. If that was on the ABs I would be selling my Grandma and backing up the truck

it will either be a massacre (ABs)or a one point game our way!

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Ted the Kiwi said...
it really should be if we lose - as I have a nice emotional hedge at $9 on the Wallabies - placed it about 12 months ago ! Bargain.

Yes you'll have your NZ passport revoked for that -first time I've heard that type of comment from a kiwi I'm shocked - wallabies by 6 bring it on

Trust Thy Shaper

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Tux said...
Trust Thy Shaper

Oi!

You are not allowed to comment on this thread. It was chatting with you that started me thinking and made me drop an inch of width.

Now I'm thinking I should trust my shaper and go back up an inch...

If its any consolation the guys making the board is probably going through something similar every time he makes a board.....plus 22" is overkill....

I've got a 6'4 which is 21.75 wide. I've had problems with it in waves over head & a 1/2 where my feet havn't been able to stop the board flipping out on bottom turns coz of the pressure on the rail. And that was in clean Indo conditions. Personally I wouldn't go wider than 20.5 for bigger waves. Maybe 20.75 tops if the waves aren't too steep & I have a nice channel to paddle out through negating the need to duck dive.

They've always been spot on.
I still have every one of them

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MickPC said...
I've got a 6'4 which is 21.75 wide. I've had problems with it in waves over head & a 1/2 where my feet havn't been able to stop the board flipping out on bottom turns coz of the pressure on the rail. And that was in clean Indo conditions. Personally I wouldn't go wider than 20.5 for bigger waves. Maybe 20.75 tops if the waves aren't too steep & I have a nice channel to paddle out through negating the need to duck dive.

What's a duck dive?

If it doesn't have a channel I'm not out there on the eight footer let alone the new board coming.

The eight footer is 22 and it continues to surprise me how well it does in late drops - not that I am chasing late drops (that and wave count are reasons I have up scaled this year), but when they happen it just seems to steam down the face then hook around. The late one yesterday was on my back hand too. Triple overhead waves and 22...a match made in heaven...you boys should try it on your next gun.

But i do have a 6'6" which is 22 and is right up there on my most useless board list so maybe in the smaller lengths it's less effective.

Mine does have a really wide rounded tail though, which would be the main problem. I guess if you had 22 under the chest but still a narrow tail you'd be ok

I never realised Austria and wa have the same wave types.


drip your talking about waves we just don't have in queensland.

nor do I really want

well not all the time. its seems like every surf you have is semi life threatening

I'm with you drip. 22" is fine on a 9'6" gun. I've ridden MC (Michael Cundith) mal guns that have been 23" at the widepoint with no issues. That red modern I posted pics of with the jc is 8' × 22" × 3&1/4" and should be fun.
True Mick the pintail makes all the difference.
Whole different ballgame with a 22" shorty.