Ant for god's sake don't let our brother Hype grow one of those Hipster Beards ..... pure sodomite bad ju ju evil they are

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Macaha said.. don't make it too sad at any point

Don't worry it won't-cassie gives hypo his will to fight back, (again)

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thePup said..

Ant for god's sake don't let our brother Hype grow one of those Hipster Beards ..... pure sodomite bad ju ju evil they are

no mate, hypos old school clean shaven or stubble man.

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weiry said...
he didn't say the words ...will you marry..so he can still technically get out of it.
plus havent you got a 1 week cooling off period

Haha

That's a house mate...

Once those words are spoken they can't be taken back... The final words of a free man.

Awww congratulations Hypo

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AnthonyG said..

Macaha said.. don't make it too sad at any point

Don't worry it won't-cassie gives hypo his will to fight back, (again)

Thank god for that,last time I went to the movies with Asea,during the sad part of the story he started crying

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Macaha said..I'm enjoying the feel good story

Thanks for that, I was a little unsure of the change in tack

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AnthonyG said..

Macaha said..I'm enjoying the feel good story

Thanks for that, I was a little unsure of the change in tack

If you keep it feel good and surfing its a winner in my book keep writing

Bloody good read Anthony.
Thank you.

All Hail Captain Peanut!

Hypo got a letter from Eric. He was staying in a village in Indonesia where Hypo had stayed for a short time with Jimmy once.
Eric wrote; not many other surfers here, a few loner yanks who seem to have cut all ties with the west and have married into families here. They still surf regularly. The waves are epic. Lefts and rights heavy or not so heavy.
Boards are going well, especially my hypo model. Had it in some size and it handled it well. We have some fibreglass supplies here so we get to fix our boards. The yanks are very protective of the place. They dont want to see it spoiled. When they met me they asked me how I knew about the place and when I mentioned Jimmy everything was sweet. I'll probably stay here the full 6 months then come back to Australia to regroup and then return here for the Australian winter season. Im just surfing, eating, reading, you know passing the time. Trying to study up on my 'guru' books. The food here is mostly fish and rice, but its very satisfying. I may shape a few boards for here when I get back. Let me know how its all going for you, hope your staying off the alkeyhol.
Its was nice to get a letter from Eric. Hypo had wondered how he was getting on. Previously Eric had told him to keep an eye on the reef. He said it can turn on and off very quickly and can pick up in size quickly as well.
Peanut and Cheryl had come to visit. Cassie needed some girl time and while Peanut wasn't Hypos favorite guy he did have some endearing features. Jimmy always liked Peanut, probably cause Peanut bailed him out of sticky situations more than a few times. Jimmy was really important to Peanut, as he'd mentored him also to a lesser degree than Hypo, but nobody had ever really done anything like that for Peanut and he would jump to Jimmy's defense at the slightest criticism. Peanut was a big guy and looked intimidating, he also would snap when he was in a fight which scared everyone. Once when the three of them were surfing at a heavy localized break, Jimmy had upset some local somehow and he and Hypo found themselves in the carpark having a punch up with five angry locals. It quickly turned into Jimmy and Hypo copping a hiding, until an incensed Peanut entered the fray with a lump of wood, which he used to club the local boys mercilessly. When they turned on him he became even more murderous and emotional and the local boys literally ran for their lives. He bundled the bloodied Jimmy and Hypo into the car and drove them out of there. Funnily enough they never went back to surf that break.
The reef was showing some signs of life so Hypo got Peanut to ferry him out there in the tinny. Peanut took one look at the reef and decided to stay on the boat. It had some size, probably six feet on the sets. Peanut sat in the channel and watched Hypo surfing, caddying for him and ferrying him back out to the lineup.
Peanut seemed to be taking a few risks in his pick ups and drop offs. Driving into the impact zone more than a few times.
"Hey keep an eye on what your doin," said Hypo, "otherwise we'll be picking our teeth out of the reef."
"Fark let me have some fun will you Hypo, not scared are ya?? taunted Peanut
"Just farkin be careful, Peanut, said Hypo, this place ain't to be toyed with."
"Besides I cant afford a helicopter ride," said Hypo
"Arr you worry too much said Peanut, just let Captain Peanut be your guide."
Hypo gave him a blank look.
As it was getting late and the tide was on its way out Hypo decided to call it a day.
He was inside at the end of a ride and Peanut came all the way in to pick him up, usually he waited until Hypo had paddled free of the reef.
At the same time a set appeared on the horizon.
Peanut looked up as he was hauling Hypo in.
"Err... I think we better get moving Hypo" he said
Hypo looked at the horizon and saw the set of waves.
"Oh fark me Peanut, get me farkin out of here!" he said in a panic
"No worries old chap" said the now highly charged Peanut
He started gunning the tinny for the deeper water as the first of the waves starting peeling over the reef.
"Faaarrrkkkk!!" yelled Hypo "your not going to beat it!!" He screamed
"Oh yes I farkin am! he said determinedly and Peanut let out his maniacal laugh
Peanut stopped gunning for the shoulder and headed straight for the unbroken wall.
"Hang on Hypo!" he screamed and as Hypo hung on with all his strength Peanut opened full throttle and traveled up the face of the wave and came down with an ungainly thud.
"See!" he said "told you we could do it!"
Hypo looked out to see there was more swells
"Yeah" he yelled "and what about these farkers?!" Hypo said pointing to the walls of water approaching out of the dark ocean.
Peanut was going crazy with the adrenaline pumping, he hit three more waves at full throttle before getting clear of the impending disaster.
Peanut was pumped "whoo hoo yeahh!! Peanut exclaimed "how farkin good was that Hypo? Got you out of one more situation eh?!" "I feel good!"
Hypo said nothing, he just breathed deeply, but then gave out a laugh
"Your a farkin maniac Peanut," he said
"Captain Peanut at your service" he said as he motored the tinny back to the beach.
When they got back the girls had made a nice meal and the boys cleaned up for dinner.
"How was it out there?" asked Cassie
"Not bad" replied Hypo
"How did Peanut go as a caddy?" she asked
"All I can say" said Hypo, is there will only... ever... be... one.... farkin Peanut!
Peanut looked at Hypo and they both laughed.
"This food looks great said Hypo, lets dig in!"

Hypo returns the favour
It was good having Peanut and Cheryl staying. Mainly for Cassie having her girlfriend nearby she seemed happier.
The next couple of days all was well until Hypo got back from a late surf to find Cassie consoling Cheryl.
When she came out she told Hypo that Cheryl and Peanut had a big fight and Cheryl told him to go away, she didn't want to be with him anymore.
"So where did he go?" asked Hypo
"I don't know said Cassie he just took off in the van"
"Oh fark I hope he doesn't go into town and get on the piss" he said
"If the coppers see him they will do him over and lock him up"
"Sh1t!" said Hypo
"C'mon" said Hypo "you'll have to drive me to town"
"But how do you know that's where hes gone?" asked Cassie
"As it's the only place to get spirits this time of night" said Hypo
"Should I bring Cheryl?" she asked
"No that will make it worse"
"Cmon lets go, just hope the cops don't see me before I see them" he said
It took over one hour to get to the main town. It was fairly quiet
"Just look to see if you can see his van" said Hypo
They cruised past a few of the pubs and saw his van in the RSL carpark.
A few hours had passed when they found the inebriated Peanut drunkenly playing a poker machine and smoking, the two things he only did while drunk.
"Heyyy Hypo" he said, "heyy Cassiiee" he slurred
"Cmon said Hypo "were going home"
"Going home?' he said, Ive just started"
"No mate we need to go" stressed Hypo
"Why?" said Peanut
"Well if the Police see you they are going to kick your arse and lock you up and if they see me they will just kick my arse and probably ban me from the area, so come farkin home now please?
Cassie sat at a table nearby
"Cheryl doesn't want me anymore, Hypo" he said
"Mate, yes she does she was just angry"
"I miss Jimmy, Hypo" he said
Hypo wasn't expecting that one
"Jimmy was always good to me Hypo" "He could see something good in me, nobody else did that except maybe mum" Peanut said sorrowfully
He started into a downward spiral about himself, when Hypo got stern....
"Listen Peanut I'm risking a lot for you just being here."
"We can have a little cry together later, but I really need you to man the fark up and get out of here."
Peanut seemed to respond to Hypos stern words and drunkenly left with him and Cassie.
"Now all we have to do is get out of town with out the cops seeing us" said Hypo.
"What about his van?" Cassie asked
"We'll go in the van." he said "You can pick up your car tomorrow."
"You drive, me and Peanut will sit low in the back.
They made it back to the farm without incident
"What will we do with him?" asked Cassie
"Let him sleep it off in the van" said Hypo
"Hopefully they will be over it tomorrow."
Peanut woke with the sun and was really crook.
Cheryl came out to the van and sat in the front seat.
She didn't say anything
"Are we still on?" asked Peanut
She didn't answer
"I'm sorry for getting angry about nothing" said Peanut
"I want to stay with you, I'm not interested in anyone else" he said
"I don't want to just travel around anymore" she said
"Ok" he said, "we'll find a place" he said
"I want to be close to Cassie and Hypo" she said
"Ok, we can do that" said Peanut
So he asked again, "are we still on?"
"Come inside" she said "you need a shower, you stink, Ill make you some breakfast"
She got out of the van and walked back inside
That'll do me thought Peanut
I think we're back, he smiled
After his shower and breakfast Cheryl was thawing.
Peanut and Hypo sat on the veranda.
"Seems like the girls have been making plans" said Hypo
"Seems that way" said Peanut
"They like living close to each other"
"Yeah, is fair enough" said Peanut
"I don't know what I can do though" he said "my money is running low"
"Stay with us then" said Hypo
"In the house?" said peanut
"No, just use my old caravan"
"Hey that's cool" said Peanut
"I can help you with things, said Peanut
"What like, be my surf caddy?" asked Hypo
"Herr herr" laughed Peanut
"No, like fencing and help with the boards and maybe even a cattle round up" said Peanut
"I've only got 8 cows" said Hypo
"Well, you know," said Peanut
"Yeah we can make it work" said Hypo
"Lets go tell the girls" said Peanut
"I'm hoping for some make up sex" said Peanut
"It's the best you know" he said smirking.
Both girls loved the idea and Peanut and Cheryl got to it immediately.

haha Captain farking Peanut getting the ol' make up sex action

I've seen a few good vids on Youtube of boats doing a runner out to sea through big swells, I could picture the scene

A big thank you to stuthepirate, who cleaned up the punctuation and numbered the pages for me into one document. When I work out how to attach it here, I will do so. cheers

hahaha well sometimes , like the Peanut , you just have to blow out some cobwebs

Were back!

Second Chances

Things continued to move along well for Hypo. He and Cassie grew closer and got more used to each other. Lots of their communication was non verbal. The surfboard business was bubbling along, and with Cassie’s part time work plus a few boards a month, kept them both in weet bix. No OS trips, but they had all they wanted.

Hypo had begun surfing a break he had surfed with Jimmy back when he was in his teens. It felt good to revisit this place. It had remained undeveloped thanks to the national parks. He could no longer drive in there, but a short walk through the bush got him to the break.

On this particular day he saw another surfer out, which was strange as he usually had it to himself.

Wondering who it could be he paddled out. He recognised the mop top immediately, and Outthere gave him a broad grin.
“Jockey said I might see you here” Outthere said
“Mate, replied Hypo, you must be part of the inner circle now, Jockey doesn’t let on about this place to anybody”
“I know, he really made me swear to secrecy” replied Outthere

They surfed together for an hour or so, not talking a real lot but enjoying each others company. On the beach Outthere showed Hypo his scars from the day at the grinder.
“Hows the ribs?” Outthere asked cheekily, Hypo gave him a sideways look and shaped up to him and they both laughed.

“So I hear you’ve got a lady now,” said Outthere “Fark there's hope for me yet, if you can get one.” he said

“Yeah well you just stay away from her now," said Hypo mock menacingly, "go and get your own."

They walked back through the bush. Outthere was on an extended break, he had saved some money and was travelling the coast looking for waves.
“So your badboy days are over then, they tell me” said Outthere
“I was never a badboy” said, Hypo, “trouble just seemed to find me, or us," he replied

“After your dad died, I was so lost, but somehow it came together for me, maybe he’s still looking out for me,” said Hypo

Outthere was quiet “I never really saw him much” said Outthere “That’s why I hated you when you showed up” “I think I was jealous”

“So what’ your plan?” asked Hypo

“Well I’m a bit bored with carting bricks and mixing mud, so I’m just going to surf till the money runs out, then go back home to brick carting I guess.”

Hypo pondered. “Come back to the house and meet Cassie” said Hypo

Cassie was a little surprised to see Hypo return with a visitor. She was even more surprised when Hypo introduced him as Outthere.

That night Outthere slept in the caravan.

“Why is this kid here?” asked Cassie later that night.

“I think he came looking for me” replied Hypo

“Why don’t you get him to help you around here?” she suggested

“Yeah I had thought of that” said Hypo

Next day Hypo showed Outthere around the farm and when they went into the shaping shed, Outhere’s eyes were like saucers.
He looked at the boards in awe.

“Fark these shapes are great” he exclaimed

“You like them huh?” Hypo asked a little surprised

“Fark yeah” he replied

“Hey check out this old classic, Outthere said, as he lifted out one of the older boards from the rack and looked it over joyfully.

“That was one of your dad’s boards” said Hypo

Outthere felt some emotion, as he ran his hands along the rails. He carefully put the board back into the rack and went outside, he walked out to the paddock and looked into the distance.

After a few minutes Hypo went out and stood behind Outthere.

“You alright kid?” he asked

Outthere's voice was broken, and without turning around said “I really miss him.”

“Yeah I do to” said Hypo, looking out to the sky.

Hypos dog appeared, “Oh that’s my dog” said Hypo

Outhere patted the dog and spoke softly to him.

“Hey ah, there could be some waves today, you want to go look?” asked Hypo

“OK” Outthere nodded.

They spent the morning in some 3 foot beach break. Not much was said.

While drying off on the beach, Hypo asked “Listen if your not in a hurry to rush off, I could use some help getting a few of my board orders finished” said Hypo

Outthere patted the dog and smiled. “Fark that would be good, thanks Hypo he said quietly, thanks, he said again.

“Yeah well, I should let you know, I’m an asshole of a boss," "it won’t be no farkin vacation” he joked.

Outthere laughed, “can’t be any worse than those bloody old brickies” he said.

Outthere felt chuffed and Hypo felt pleased too.

“Well let’s go back and see what we can do eh? Said Hypo

“Aye aye cap’n” replied Outthere, and mock saluted Hypo.

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AnthonyG said..
Were back!

Clearly you are not a footy fan !!

Thanks for the post - I will read to after the big match !!

Ya still got it Ant mate .... awesome piece that

Makes me wonder what the phuck I'm doin with my life, does Hypo. Cheers Ant, always enjoy your work.

welcome back Gman

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Cobra said..
welcome back Gman

Same same

Welcome back - what a ripper of an edition. I really loved this line

“Yeah well, I should let you know, I’m an asshole of a boss," "it won’t be no farkin vacation” he joked.

Unleashed

Hypo and Outthere glassed a few boards together. When they finished their work, they sat outside and had a cup of tea and some cake.

“So how did you meet my old man?” asked Outthere

“You want the short version or the long version?” asked Hypo

“Long version is ok” said Outthere

Hypo started; I was just a young kid. I used to catch the train to the beach from the suburbs at every opportunity, you know weekends, school holidays and that.

My mum and dad weren’t sure about surfing, but I was so keen they bought me a second hand board and let me go by myself.

The beach and the line up were very hierarchical.

On the rocks near the shops and the best waves were the kings, Jimmy and his mates, it was called the kingdom.

Further down the beach were the regular crew, or the 2nd crew as they were called and even further down the beach was where guys like me and Jockey used to surf. Jockey had got his nickname because he was kind of small and wiry.

Anyhow it was a real farkin battleground. It was like seagulls with chips trying to get a farkin wave. Me and Jockey were on the edge, just picking up scraps.

Jimmy and his mates seemed like some far off world that they lived in. They got all the best waves.

One day when they wasn’t much surf the second crew came after me and Jockey. Poor farkin Jockey, Hypo mused, he really tried to fight them, but they just laughed at him and knocked him down.

Anyway after smacking me around a bit, they took my board back to their group. Mate I was in agony. Me and Jockey had to sit from a distance as these farking carnts smashed up my board.

When they lost interest and left the scene Jockey and I went and retrieved it. I was really struggling to hold back the tears when I picked it up. They had rocked it and smashed the fin out. Me and Jockey just sat in our spot. I was totally dejected, but Jockey was kind of hopeful thinking up ways of how it could be fixed. Jockey is like that, always looking for solutions to problems.

So we’re just sitting there and …....,well……, Jimmy just appeared in front of us. He looked really massive, and he had facial hair. He kind of looked at us and then looked at my board.

“You need someone to fix it?” he asked.

I brightened up, “yeah?” I replied.

“Bring it down to the kingdom,” said Jimmy.

We followed Jimmy past the 2nd crew and towards the kingdom. We walked up to the back of the shops where Jimmy’s crew had set up a little workshop for repairing and occasionally making boards. We were greeted by a small group of kind of really crazy looking guys, covered in fibreglass dust, with this sun bleached wild hair and unusual mannerisms.

“Hey Fartshake!” Jimmy said to one of them, “fix this one would ya!” he asked and ordered.

“No probs Jimmy” replied Fartshake as he and his crazy mates began enthusiastically hacking out Hypos fin and sanding the dings.

“When will it be ready?” asked Jimmy.

“It will be right for the early tomorrow” replied Fartshake.

“Cool” replied Jimmy.

“You ok with that?”, he said to Hypo.

“Yeah that’s great” he replied, now just really stoked.

“So why did they beat you down?” asked Jimmy.

“Not cool enough, I think” replied Hypo.

“Cause there farking asshole carnts!” piped up fearless little Jockey, still full of fight. Jimmy laughed.

“Ok let’s go and talk to them” said Jimmy.

As Jimmy approached the 2nd crew with Hypo and Jockey in tow the fear was in their faces.

“Ok you farking carnts!” ranted Jimmy, sounding like a drill sergeant “Farking listen up!”

“These two guys here are my mates, and if any of you farking sissy boys hassle them in the surf or anywhere, I’m coming after you, which means, after I beat the krap out of you, you won’t ever surf this place again!” Jimmy boomed “You got that!” He yelled.

The 2nd crew kind of mumbled agreement and looked at the sand, anywhere but at Jimmy.

Hypo and Jockey were stoked.

“Tell you what, said Jimmy, from now on you guys can hang with me and my crew, come down and meet the boys” he said.

This was like a dream come true. Hypo met Jimmy’s crew, about a dozen or so ragtag, misfits who ruled the lineup.

The next day Hypo picked up his board and asked the guy if he owed him anything.

“Nah mate he said, your in Jimmy’s crew now”

“Just let me have a wave or two in the lineup” he smiled as he handed Hypo his board.

Hypo felt awesome.

He hit the surf and felt like a dog off the chain, just totally unleased.

He just went as hard as he could catching lots of waves and just cutting as loose as he could.

The kings were watching from the beach. One guy said to Jimmy “man, that kid is just going berserk out there”. Another said “Yeah he’s really ripping it up”. 3rd king says “It’s like he’s Hyperactive” “He’s in the zone!” All the kings looked on.

Jimmy looked at Hypo zipping all over the break, “Yep that’s Hypo, said Jimmy proudly, he’s my mate.”

Thanks heaps fellas, I like comments, how do you rate 'Unleashed'? LB forum is the best place for me to post, I find it un PC which allows me to write more freely. "Youse are champs!"

as close to 10/10 as you can get Ant .... loving the retrospective looks back in Hypo's timeline it just seems to seamlessly flow to me anyway .... it's pretty wicked work

The Board

Hypo and Outhere hung together the following week.

One morning, Hypo rose a bit later than usual. He and Cassie had spent the morning getting jiggy with it, so it wasn’t till after 10am that he surfaced.

He walked out to the shed and noticed that Outthere's car had gone, probably surfing he thought and having a bit of a look around, he noticed Jimmys board wasn’t there.

He had a cup of tea with Cassie then drove out to the spot. On reaching the headland he looked down and could see Outthere. Instead of going straight down and into the surf he decided to watch. He enjoyed the occasion, Jimmys only son riding one of his favourite boards.

After a while he couldn’t wait and went surfing himself. He decided to surf another peak a 100 yards down. He did wave at Outthere, but he seemed too engrossed in his session.

Meanwhile Outthere was having his own epiphany. He was talking out aloud to Jimmy. He began cursing him aloud, when a strange thing happened. A school of dolphins was passing by and one of the dolphins swam close to him. He came right up alongside him and just stayed next to him. Outthere reached out and stroked his slimy back. He began talking to it, like he talked to Wally, Hypo's dog. The dolphin lapped up the attention and rolled and looked him straight in the eye. After a few minutes the dolphin swam off, back to his pod.

Outthere realised he didn’t feel angry anymore.

By now Hypo was sitting on the beach. Outthere walked up and Hypo noticed how different his demeanor was. He seemed kind of at peace. He sat next to Hypo, but didn’t speak at first. Hypo tried to make some small talk, but gave up.

Finally Outthere spoke, "Ive decided to move on today Hypo" he said.

Hypo listened.

"Ive got some mates up at Byron I'd like to see, I haven't seen 'em for years, I need to see 'em. I cut 'em off years ago, he said, I have to fix that, I'm kind of tired of being on my own."

"Ok" said Hypo

They made their way back to the farm. Outthere carefully put Jimmys board back in the shed and began packing his things.

Hypo was pensive. He wanted to say some things, but felt unable. So he went into the shed and began sanding a board.

Soon Outthere was ready to go.

They stood at the car for a while making awkward small talk.

Outthere was about to get in his car.

“Oh you forgot something" said Hypo.

He went into the shed and when he returned he had Jimmy's board under his arm.

"I think this belongs to you now." said Hypo

Outhere hugged the rigid Hypo and thanked him.

He lovingly put the board into the back of the station wagon.

"See you in 6 months" said Outthere.

"I’ll look forward to it." said Hypo

"And remember," said Hypo "be good, and if you cant be good, be good at it." he laughed

Outhere took off in a cloud of dust leaving Hypo and Wally.

The last Hypo saw, was Outthere giving him a shaka sign out the window, before he disappeared around the bend.

Hey Team LB!

Needed a time out, so as you can see I'm now anthonyg1. Will post a hypo instalment shortly. (well I think pup still reads em.)

Peace Brothers

Part 13

The Island of the Stoned Guru


Hypo had been in touch with Outthere. He had not been enjoying Byron so much. It was good to reconnect with his friends, but he found the scene not to his liking. Sure there were parties and girls, but the surf was crowded.

Hypo had heard from Eric and a trip was planned to visit Eric for a month. Outthere jumped at the offer. It was to be just Hypo and Outthere, Cassie had work commitments and her brother and his wife were able to stay with her at the farm. On Eric’s advice they only brought one board each, as he had spares. “Just bring your favourite allrounder” he said. They also took extra surfing supplies for Eric such as legropes ,wax and rashies.

Outthere was super excited, he had never been on a plane anywhere before. Hypo was keen too, as he hadn’t travelled for years and kind of knew the area where Eric was based, from previous trips with Jimmy. Their prep time was very short and 4 weeks later they were touching down. They quickly bypassed the tourist areas and were soon at the dock ready for the boat ride to Eric’s location. After the long boat ride and a very crowded and a chaotic bus ride, they arrived at Eric’s place. It was isolated, but there was a village 10 k’s away. Eric looked well, kind of thin, but not unhealthy. His diet was mostly fish and rice. He had a surprise for Hypo, Eric had a wife and two children, something he had never mentioned. The children both spoke English well, having been tutored, but were also a bit wild. They surfed and were adept at living close to the ocean, fishing and surfing were skills they had learnt from Eric and made their own.

Hypo and Outthere stayed in the visiting surfers hut. Their accom was basic, but clean. A patchwork concrete floor covered with matting, four double bunks, clean bedding, a small kitchen area, with a gas stove and a few pots, pans and plates. A toilet and shower was set up outside. No running water, so no hot water unless you boiled it, but it was not required for showering, as the temperature was warm. It was spartan, but comfortable enough. A wardrobe, table and chairs and gas lighting and gas fridge rounded out their ‘palatial’ surroundings. No mobile service, no telephone, no electricity, no TV or internet, just a battery operated boom box and a collection of CD’s left behind over the years by visiting surfers. A few dog eared decks of playing cards, some books, old surfing magazines, a box of wax remnants and a few odd clothes. An old acoustic guitar with some missing strings sat in the corner. Plus a very interesting guest book dating back to the early seventies, Hypo reflected as he saw his name once, but Jimmy’s name several times. Also the names of surfers he had met with Jimmy on their travels over a 40 year period. In the guest book were some old photos, a couple of Jimmy and Eric surfing the reefs together when the swell was large. The standard of accom didn’t trouble Hypo, all his previous travels with Jimmy were like this, before all the electronic gadgets and comforts that now seem necessary for day to day living. No clicking onto the internet for swell or wind forecasts, back to the old days of ‘work it out yourself and see what tomorrow brings’. Or ask a local.

Eric had probably spent over 15 years there in total. Often staying 6-8 months per year. He knew they are well and the boys more or less depended on his advice as regards to surf and weather forecasts. The beach break was always the back up. If there was nothing else it always seemed to have some kind of wave. It seemed to never drop below 2 ‘ so it could still be ridden, but it never really got beyond 3-4’. Outthere found a few of the CD’s to his liking and played them, repeatedly. Mostly some 70’s heavy metal and ac/dc. So much so that Hypo hid the batteries or told him to use the earphones. Their lifestyle would revolve around the wind, swell and tides. There was a bunch of spare boards too. Which had been left behind over many years by visiting surfers. Probably 30 boards in total, most were dinged about, but were always of use to someone. Old single fin swallow tails and some real spear shaped shooters for the bigger days. Outthere got a laugh at some of the odd shaped boards and wondered how anyone could ride them. At one point in time they were state of the art. A left and right reef about 200 metres apart were the main breaks. Both were within walking or bicycle distance from the hut. A canoe ride to the take off area could be organised for a small fee, which was always appreciated by the boatman. The waves were average to good, ranging from 2’ to 5’. Although an average day here was still a good day at home. The boys were happy though, can’t beat warm water and good simple food. Add to that fishing, snorkelling and spearfishing.

Eric thinks the inconsistency of the surf, is what had saved this place from being invaded. “It can be very fickle, you could come here for a month and not get a surf,” he said. “Nowadays everyone wants the 10 day surf package tour, work schedules demand it, no more saving up your dole cheques for the airfare he laughed.” “So the surf tour operators don’t set up here, there’s no guarantee of good waves.” Most returning surfers planned a 2 or 3 month stay, which usually included a least one visa run. Most were sick of the rat race and could happily occupy themselves with other activities, if there were no waves. These longer term stayers who regularly returned tended to be the ones who assimilated and married locals. Outthere loved the lifestyle. He would stay in the surf for hours, just floating out there and catching waves in an unhurried fashion. After a few weeks, he had dropped some weight, and took on a similar look around the eyes to Eric, kind of hungry looking.

One evening Eric came to the boys hut. “I’m heading out early tomorrow,” he said. “There is a reef not too far away that should be on”. “If you’re interested be ready to leave at 7am”. “Oh and bring some money with you, we will need some for fares”. And with that he left the hut. Hypo and Outthere were both interested and curious. Eric gave them no other info, which was his way. He loved being mysterious. Early next morning they headed off on motorbikes, travelling through the village which was awakening to a new day. After passing the village they took a diversion to the coast and after a few k’s came to a small port where a ferry was loading. They parked their bikes and boarded the ferry. After a few stops they docked at a small village where they hired a ute and driver who dropped them at an isolated beach. It was flat, with wavelets lapping the shore. “Not too far away?” Hypo muttered cynically. “Fark me guru!” “Where the fark is this farkin reef?” Hypo asked impatiently. Eric laughed, “have faith” “Chill Hypo”, said Outthere, “enjoy the ride.” Hypo rolled his eyes, ever since Outthere had met a girl here he had become just too mellow. He could relate more easily to him before when he was just aggro. “Over that headland” Eric pointed south. By now the sun was up, it was hot and it was only 9am. Hypo was feeling it, adding to his annoyance was Outthere’s cheerful demeanour. He assumed Outthere’s whistling a tune was designed just to aggravate him. After a 2k walk along the beach and over the headland they were overlooking the next bay. Hypo’s grumpiness evaporated as soon as he saw the reef. In the middle of the bay perfect 5 ‘ A frames broke peeling left and right for 100m. The paddle out was a breeze. Hypo smiled sheepishly at Eric, ‘you came through again bud.” Eric quipped, “how could you ever doubt me”. Outthere ran and stumbled and hooted down the track to the beach. Two surfers where already enjoying the waves. As the group paddled out, one of the two surfers glided into the channel from his ride and paddled over. He was one of the young local surfers from the village, Manny. “Told you it would be good today” he said to Eric. ‘Yes you did,” Eric smiled “How did you get here so early?” asked Eric “Caught the last ferry out yesterday, and slept on the beach last night” he replied. “We’ve been in the water since 6am, time for a feed I think”. “This is err…..John and Robert,” said Eric, introducing Hypo and Outthere respectively. It was the best day of surf the boys had on the trip. It was offshore all day and the changing tide had little effect on the shape or size of the waves. Although as the tide receded the left was shallower and good barrels could be had. The waves were plentiful, with 4 to 6 waves per set, which were consistent. There were many good waves that went unridden. Eric speared some fish and they cooked it on the beach for lunch, plus some fruit and bread he had brought. Manny added some more fruit and sticky rice. It was hot, and shade was sought out when not in the water.

“Does this break have a name?” asked Outthere “Manny’s dad used to surf it alone for years,” replied Eric So we just call it ‘Mannys’, which is his dads’ name too. “He was the first surfer to settle here. He came with some friends back in 68 and after they left, he stayed on, his friends left behind their boards and some other small comforts. His friends dropped out of surfing when they returned to their home countries, when family and work commitments took over, so it was never really spoken about to other surfers. When Manny ran out of money he went back home and sold everything he had and returned. He was a bit of a loner, but made a home here for himself. The locals tolerated him as he has always tried to help out where he could. He was the only westerner living here for many years. People passed through, but nobody stayed long enough to get any decent waves, so the spot just dropped off the radar. He probably had it to himself for 20 years. Then Jimmy came here and stayed for 6 months, as was his way, and sampled some fine waves and it kind of grew slowly from there. He never told anyone about Mannys reef though, nowadays Manny doesn’t surf it as he now prefers the beach break closer to his home, a few of us know about it and surf it. But it doesn’t work often, probably 10 days a year, you guys were lucky. Outthere had seen Manny senior back near his hut. His hut was the closest to the water, a primo position thought Outthere. He seemed really old, but was probably about 70. He was quiet, sort of crusty looking, but with soft, wrinkly eyes, and never really saying much. He just surfed the beach break and spent the rest of the time fishing and maintaining his hut and garden that he shared with his wife and Manny junior.

During a break from the waves, Manny and Outthere got talking. He had worked at a few places away from the village, but always returned when he could. “This is my home” he said. “I go working elsewhere to get some money for us and return” he said. “I have to help out so that my grandparents are looked after.” “I’m going to Australia next year ” he said. Outthere was very excited “that’s so cool” he said. “You can stay with me and there’s surf” “You can borrow my boards.” He was babbling. “Will you come back here again?” asked Manny expectantly. “For sure” said Outthere The boys were both excited, sitting together under a tree making plans for the year ahead in Australia and beyond. Manny and the other village surfer stayed another night and got good waves the next day, but a foot or so smaller. By the end of that day the wave had all but disappeared. The ‘three amigos’ had to hurry back so as not to miss the last ferry. They made it home after dark exhausted. They sat out in the cool salty evening breeze, not saying much, as Outthere strummed the guitar and sang a few songs he had taught himself. The next day Hypo was real stiff, Outthere called him the tinman, because he was walking so stiffly. He was laid up all day, just really stiff and sore, but he was in his ‘happy place’, from a full days surfing. Outthere was his usually energetic self, surfing the beach break to stay loose and doing tricks on a bicycle. “Stop showing off!” called Hypo out “Try and catch me stiffy!” Outthere called back laughing, as he rode past Hypo on his back tyre only.

A few days before it was time to leave, while checking the surf together, Outthere revealed to Hypo that he was staying on. He also revealed the plans for Manny to visit Australia. “Eric can help me extend my visa”, he said. “I reckon I can afford to stay for another month.” Outthere had some money and the cost of living was cheap there. He liked his new friends and he loved the lifestyle. Hypo left his board behind for him, and later topped up his bank account $200 as a kind gesture. It came as no surprise to Hypo, it was a sweet set up. He knew the pull of a place such as this and if he didn’t have Cassie waiting for him back at home, he may have considered a longer stay himself. Later chatting with Eric he brought up the subject. “Keep an eye on him (Outthere) for me after I’m gone,” he asked Eric “Don’t worry, I will.” replied Eric “He’s Jimmy’s son you know.” said Hypo reminding Eric “How about he stays in the spare room at my place, and he can eat with us, would that make you feel better?” asked Eric “Yeah, that’s good, thanks Guru,” he replied. Next day Outthere saw Hypo off at the bus stop. Hypo didn’t like leaving him. “Thanks for looking out for me old fella” said Outthere Hypo was tearing up, his lips trembled as he spoke, “you just keep your eyes open Ok?” Outthere smiled and nodded. Hypo gave Outthere a hug and boarded the bus. He moved up the back amongst the crowd, luggage and chickens. As the bus drove away he hung out the window and gave Outthere a shaka wave. Outthere laughed and shaka waved back.

Welcome back I'll have to read that one tonight

Awesome read as always Ant...interesting turn for young Outthere. I've often fantasized about marrying an Indo girl & setting up on some isolated island. Unfortunately my wife is too awesome

Glad your back Anth - I wasn't happy to see you'd gone brother , stick around & just give us a holler if you need hey

Always stoke from reading ya stuff , it's just plain goodness