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thedrip said..MickPC said...chrispy said..
what you are doing a version of what the clubbies do with their skis to get over waves mick
Ahhh prob subconsciously learnt it from them then haha
I do a version of that at Yals on my longboard. I get back and paddle over it. The key for me is to get the nose on top of the whitewater and then climb over it by paddling hard. I reckon I can get over 3 and sometimes 4 foot whitewater if it's down the reef a bit and lost the worse if it's breaking power. Eskimo rolls take too long. Either that or I just get washed down the reef and come out around the left. On a shortboard its a hideous paddle, but not too bad with the glide from the longboard.
Yep perfect for Yal's, it gets that little kinda reform face in front like my local so you can spring over at a 45 degree angle to get over bigger whitewater. I've found its heaps easier with bigger boards too. I learnt it just last year with the 10' log & didn't really do it with the 9'4 CW till I got it repaired this year. You can still do it ok, but yeah it seems the bigger the board the better it works