CMC great thread to see we are actually humans ...

i dont lose the stoke for surfing more sometimes as MAC says working for your self and getting back to a pile of messages on the mobile just sux.

I know sometimes i say screw it and go for a surf when i cant get other **** together.... it can go either way... i love it and feel better or if i screw up i think whats the ****ing point of either

so my solution we breezers clearly would like to be a part of the "society of sons of rest ... 6 months holiday twice a year on full pay". BUT how to? a web based revenue stream where customers dont call us when we are surfing.

any ideas?

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jasdeking said...

CMC great thread to see we are actually humans ...


so my solution we breezers clearly would like to be a part of the "society of sons of rest ... 6 months holiday twice a year on full pay". BUT how to? a web based revenue stream where customers dont call us when we are surfing.

any ideas?

Porns the big seller, we could start Sleezebreeze.. Crispy, hook us up with some of your contacts .

Good thread CMC, wish I had more time to reply but I'm off sailing so have a good arvo boys..

This gets me in the mood.

I agree with all those who have saluted this fine thread.

I was sick of surfing big time for many years. I hated the crowds, tide, wind, swell direction, my boards etc but mostly I just hated the crowds and the feeling in the water - snaking, dropping in, people not duck diving etc. What happened to the stoke - that was what I most enjoyed about surfing - a chance to get away from life for a few hours, have some fun with your mates and have a chat with a random or two in beautiful surroundings. I was working 60 to 70 hrs a week, living in Manly and bringing in some good cashola - life should have been a dream. I got sick - they did not know what it was but after 4 months in bed they called it chronic fatigue. So I made a lifestyle choice - took a long holiday to re-charge the batteries, went back to Uni and did some post grad work. My sole reason was so that I good relocate away from the big city and work from home but still do something that I found challenging and enjoyable. It took a little longer than I wanted but finally we made the move 20 months ago and I have never been more stoked on surfing!!!! The whole thing was the crowd factor I reckon. This morning is a classic example - my neighbour and I surfed for 2.5 hrs with no one else but ourselves and some dolphins. It was 3 foot perfection with a few bigger ones - better than normal I admit but I had engineered the flexibility to be there. That surf will keep me stoked for months to come. I now surf again on weekends after not having done so for years. The Sup that I was using all the time to try and create a new ocean experience for myself has now been gathering dust for some time. There is just no need for it anymore.

Life is not perfect though - I still have to commute to Sydney too often in my opinion but its getting better by the month. I still hate long weekends and school holidays but I try to get as many surfs as I can midweek and out of these periods

I can completely understand how you could lose a bit of stroke fighting those crowds on the Goldie.

Maybe it can be put down to dont know what you got till its gone. My government job posting kept me inland hours away from the coast and between the ages of 21 and 35 I had no choice but to give surfing away then got back into it for 8 years and then got self employed and not enough time gave it away again.

I recently sold my business Mac and was able to retire in my forties, yeah no 6 figure income anymore but all day to myself. I'm back surfing and only today surfed a 3' beachy with noone else in the water, loving it.

You dont know what you got till its gone.

i dont get how the beer garden is being filled with red thumbs,especially in this particular thread

I agree its a state of mind thingy

@ newbie & newguy, its guys like YOU that light my fire at times,not wanting to dampen your spirits but like CMC said earlier if your state of mind is not in the right frame of mind you sometimes find yourself chilling at home when there's awesome waves to be had!after surfing for over 35 years and living in right hand point break perfection you do get fussy at times.

Even my spot LM which I had a very good spot in the line up feels like a strange place of late.One thing I have enjoyed are my resent trips to Byron and surfing with team seabreeze.For those that don't know these guys you will never meet a better bunch of blokes in your life.

I should be sorting out artwork for my new stick but to be honest I cant be bothered.

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chrispychru said...

i dont get how the beer garden is being filled with red thumbs,especially in this particular thread

I get it Chrispy its an easy way for a coward to post that hasn't got the brains to put a sentence together

i started surfing as a kid and the best part was always the mate ship and the fun of just a days surf. We would have to train it from Midland, walk the hill but it was always as small group or just another mate.

Stopped full on surfing for better part of my adult life and jumped in only about a year or two ago with kids . But lately its more just about me and i will be honest i enjoyed to company out in the surf. I often will start up a chat to however is around to pass the time and its the overall experience still for me.

I actually find it even alienates me a little from my wife. That's sounds strange but she almost resents me going of with out her so i can see how different factors would effect different people.

I get my stoke from just getting wet and spending my time thinking about, preparing to surf. I really enjoy the Seabreeze site and actually will say i thin kit a far more tolerant place then many other forums out there. The whole us and them thing gets me down a little too(even though i still like to throw out jibes here and there) .

As for age i hope i can keep it up for many many years. Actually i have a broken back so have back issues often but find if i surf at least twice every week i feel Heep's loser and have way less back pain.

Keep it up for everyone out there. Its good to find out that everyone is human (or Canine) as has been said already

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boofy said...

chrispychru said...

i dont get how the beer garden is being filled with red thumbs,especially in this particular thread

I get it Chrispy its an easy way for a coward to post that hasn't got the brains to put a sentence together

A really great man said once "If you're not making enemies than your not doing a good enough job" Paul Watson SSCS

Frk them, most would pay little attention to them.

Some great and inspiring responses here.

I think a lot of it comes from what Ted mentions, also Weiry sums up great reasons not to sweat the small things.

I won't go into all of the personal stuff here and I try to be an optimist anyway but needless to say my personal well being relies upon the endorphine hit from some good time in the ocean. It is our saviour and when you take life's issues into it maybe the ocean will slap you down for defying it's purpose.

And yes, we are human! haha

human....hahaha not on this planet come on cmc lets go get some waves mate

my 2c. after 5mths out of any physical activity with a stuffed shoulder my first few surfs im struggling to even catch a wave and can barely stand up. Its like starting all over again. It helps reading this stuff and knowing your not the only one.

This would be a first we have all managed to stay on topic,well done guy's.

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62mac said...

This would be a first we have all managed to stay on topic,well done guy's.

Sh1t mac, didn't realise that. Just don't reveal that secret von break.

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Scotty88 said...

62mac said...

This would be a first we have all managed to stay on topic,well done guy's.

Sh1t mac, didn't realise that. Just don't reveal that secret von break.

Im amazed that you guys are still dribbling on about it, get the f@@k out there!!

Sailing failed. It reminded me off the saying, If it flys, floats or fornicates, rent it..

Anyway this is somewhat on the track of this topic.

http://www.surfermag.com/features/log-rhythm/

But personally, yeah it's easy to get over it, more so when i was young than now.

bit like Ted I lived and worked in the hell hole called Sydney for a while, suit, tie, ridiculous rent, and too long in Traffic every day. I earnt good coin and had lots of fun but fun was not Lifestyle and a life without style is not a life, so I moved back home, so glad I did, much more enjoyable.

I think it changed my attitude heaps, before I moved down there, I could surf whenever I wanted, I was a uni student at the time and before that always had jobs I could either get away from early or start late. And I would not even think anything of it if I didn't surf for a few weeks cause it was always there, in Sydney it wasn't i hardly surfed, I worked long hours and i couldnt handle the crowds at all. it made me think just how lucky I had been. Also a bit of family stuff happened around then 2 which made me miss being around too

Now i look at surfing a bit different, took me a while to get going again and I think everyone has a shocker surf now and again but now a shocker of a surf isn't so much of an issue, I just try to remember one little moment that gives you a little smile and be thankful i can be out there.

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doggie said...

Scotty88 said...

62mac said...

This would be a first we have all managed to stay on topic,well done guy's.

Sh1t mac, didn't realise that. Just don't reveal that secret von break.

Im amazed that you guys are still dribbling on about it, get the f@@k out there!!

Been.... Had fun 2. 3 ft and smooth as...

But yeah 2 pages on topic, this is extraordinary.

Yes- absolutely.

Recently had 6 wks out and just flatwater paddled every day - rested my back and imroved my fitness big time. First surf back 2wks ago at the Pass - got a hundred waves and all refreshed and back into it.

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SP said...

doggie said...

Scotty88 said...

62mac said...

This would be a first we have all managed to stay on topic,well done guy's.

Sh1t mac, didn't realise that. Just don't reveal that secret von break.

Im amazed that you guys are still dribbling on about it, get the f@@k out there!!

Been.... Had fun 2. 3 ft and smooth as...

But yeah 2 pages on topic, this is extraordinary.

Bastard!!

BTW BOOBS (.).)

its called "mojo" cmc...and you have lost yours....dont panic...your a surfer, you will find it again and all will be good...I started when I was 10 and I'm 61 now so I think I can tell you from experience...you surf like a trojan when your young...dont even think about energy or work when your out there...then the years start piling on and things change...you have to manage what energy you have and work commitments are outwaying surf time...when you were young you would get home and be buzzing from all the waves you tore apart...those rare "shockers" start to become less rare...now you get home and think...that was a great turn I did this arvo...but you know what? that turn is all you really need in the latter years...you have to cop it on the chin...your getting older...so you have to think smarter...ride a bigger board and wait for the bombs...Whalon Jennings I think wrote "old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill"....I cant count how many times I have lost my mojo over the years...but you know what cmc? when you find it again (and you will)...its better than make up sex

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doggie said...

Bastard!!

BTW BOOBS (.).)

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SP said...
Been.... Had fun 2. 3 ft and smooth as...

+ 1 - over 5hrs in the water today bro! Will need to work late tonight though now to make up for it.

62mac should be in his prime as the surf is hitting knee high

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indian said...

62mac should be in his prime as the surf is hitting knee high

Oh he lurves you

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arkgee said...

its called "mojo" cmc...and you have lost yours....dont panic...your a surfer, you will find it again and all will be good...I started when I was 10 and I'm 61 now so I think I can tell you from experience...you surf like a trojan when your young...dont even think about energy or work when your out there...then the years start piling on and things change...you have to manage what energy you have and work commitments are outwaying surf time...when you were young you would get home and be buzzing from all the waves you tore apart...those rare "shockers" start to become less rare...now you get home and think...that was a great turn I did this arvo...but you know what? that turn is all you really need in the latter years...you have to cop it on the chin...your getting older...so you have to think smarter...ride a bigger board and wait for the bombs...Whalon Jennings I think wrote "old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill"....I cant count how many times I have lost my mojo over the years...but you know what cmc? when you find it again (and you will)...its better than make up sex

Thanks for that arkgee,I needed that

Don,t make the same mistake as a lot of others CMC, including myself. Started surfing at Grafton(Yamba) with a cousin while on hols at the ripe old age of 8. Stood up on my second lot of white water. As we didn,t live close to the coast,didn,t surf to much. This has continued for 41 years now, and haven,t had a surf since I broke the board at Lennox 6 years ago. At that stage I was surfing 6 or 7 times a year only bacause life gets in the way more than it should. What I did each time I started surfing again was go and sit at the beach and watch and remember what it was like(good and bad). year ago I got fed up with not doing enough in the water and got right into sailing. Sometimes its good to have a break from the things you love doing but don,t let them go completely. Am just now srtarting to yearn being back on a board. Maybe when the Pup,s back at Chrissy

Great thread. Was getting a bit frustrated with it myself lately... but I know I just need one good session and all will be good for the next few weeks...

...sometimes one (really) good move will do it!

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slainte said...

Don,t make the same mistake as a lot of others CMC, including myself. Started surfing at Grafton(Yamba) with a cousin while on hols at the ripe old age of 8. Stood up on my second lot of white water. As we didn,t live close to the coast,didn,t surf to much. This has continued for 41 years now, and haven,t had a surf since I broke the board at Lennox 6 years ago. At that stage I was surfing 6 or 7 times a year only bacause life gets in the way more than it should. What I did each time I started surfing again was go and sit at the beach and watch and remember what it was like(good and bad). year ago I got fed up with not doing enough in the water and got right into sailing. Sometimes its good to have a break from the things you love doing but don,t let them go completely. Am just now srtarting to yearn being back on a board. Maybe when the Pup,s back at Chrissy

Quoted

cmc, mark richo used to tell me part of being a good surfer is knowing when to peak when you know swell is coming. i thought about it and he is right.

many times a swell was building i would go nuts at dbar before hand, then when the points turned it i was tired, sore and spent.

maybe something to think about. we have had a lot of surf since you've been back

cheers

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laceys lane said...

cmc, mark richo used to tell me part of being a good surfer is knowing when to peak when you know swell is coming. i thought about it and he is right.

many times a swell was building i would go nuts at dbar before hand, then when the points turned it i was tired, sore and spent.

maybe something to think about. we have had a lot of surf since you've been back

cheers

educate the longboarders Lacey see you in the water