Just a post perhaps reflecting my own personal state right now. I have had some absolute shocker surfs of late leaving me reluctant to surf again for a while.

It's something to do with a lack of energy or something. Have you ever just lost interest in actually going surfing?

nah never mate. im pretty lucky where i could surf all day everyday and was doing that till i got chopped and never got over it(yet prior to that i had not been able to surf for years). i have not surfed much lately which is my own fault somewhat. yet sometimes you gotta change things up cmc. sk8r,hand plane,longboard. i guess when you have had something taken away from you that you love so much,you end up pretty grateful for anything you can do

Back on the horse mate , always another stretch of beach & always another board to play there with!
Besides we'd miss ya here wouldn't we fellas

Very timely topic CMC, I've found myself over the past 6 months on and off in the same situation.
Sometimes I put it down to the conditions and others state on mine.Also losing interest in my dream board the UFO which is why Kadi' will be the new owner of a wonderful machine.In the past I simply order a new stick which I am in the process of doing right now,Its also come to mine spending too much time on seabreeze talking about surfing so often.Another thing is I've turned 50 and my surfing is no way near as good as it was even three years ago,I don't know why but as Lacey mentioned in another threat 50 you go backwards and I tend to agree or is it I need to change my style,instead of surfing HP go with the flow and cruise more than the slash and burn mind set.

You're right Mac, it seems like a state of mind thing. I have been insanely busy which has drained me a little, eating quick crap food leaving me feeling even worse and then taking the time for a surf and it not delivering the 'up' I could have done with.

I went to the naturopath Monday and have been swallowing handfuls of Spurulina, Fish Oil, liver cleanser and protein powder. I feel better already and this morning would have been perfect for a surf but at the risk of ruining my day gave it a miss.

It's just a strange way for me to think about surfing. As a negative rather than positive.

Must be time for something different, I'm thinking a log or an OC1 to stay on the water more.

At 38 I hope I have 10 years of minor improvement ahead...

But yes, now and then I will lose the drive to surf. But actually those really big longboards that you use a carbon paddle with... Well those boards help maintain the strength and balance, and get you out on the water when conditions are rubbish.

Also, if I have a smoking uncrowded session, I might stay out of the water for a week, because of poorer conditions...

We get fussy in old age I think... But look at the fun that Gerry Lopez had in those sloppy conditions at Lorne Point that day... Keep the stoke!

CMC as a business owner and I think your in a similar vote,its becoming near impossible to switch off one the 5.30 comes our place is a 7 day affair and often returning back to the car after a nice surf my message back can have missed calls and a load of messages all work related.So I often find myself thinking of work while I'm surfing which is not a good place to be.

stop being wankers cant switch off dadadada, no energy dadadada,not surfing great dadadada. ffs lads i know life is full of crap, that its more like a big turd than a nice chocolate sometimes. but come on surfing is the best stress relief and therapy i could think off. i will never be h/p surfer or sk8r again so i just go along happy being a kook and so stoked to be wet. **** seabreeze actually gets me stoked to surf more. stop analysing and start frothing or just hand all your gear to me

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62mac said...

CMC as a business owner and I think your in a similar vote,its becoming near impossible to switch off one the 5.30 comes our place is a 7 day affair and often returning back to the car after a nice surf my message back can have missed calls and a load of messages all work related.So I often find myself thinking of work while I'm surfing which is not a good place to be.

I can see a new store , I can see it being called Goldie Living , it stocks everything surf & somethings household for the girls to part with coin too (instead of them standing looking thoroughly pissed outside while we drool over surf porn inside)
I saw MrMac opening it Fark work 7 1/2 days a week

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chrispychru said...

stop being wankers cant switch off dadadada, no energy dadadada,not surfing great dadadada. ffs lads i know life is full of crap, that its more like a big turd than a nice chocolate sometimes. but come on surfing is the best stress relief and therapy i could think off. i will never be h/p surfer or sk8r again so i just go along happy being a kook and so stoked to be wet. **** seabreeze actually gets me stoked to surf more. stop analysing and start frothing or just hand all your gear to me

I'll have the splice

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62mac said...

CMC as a business owner and I think your in a similar vote,its becoming near impossible to switch off one the 5.30 comes our place is a 7 day affair and often returning back to the car after a nice surf my message back can have missed calls and a load of messages all work related.So I often find myself thinking of work while I'm surfing which is not a good place to be.

I relate to that, sorry for what sounds like self pity Chrispy, it's not, well OK it is.

It took all of my self control on Monday not to be one of those crackers you see on telly just losing my bag and smashing my board to pieces against a rock or a pole. Without doubt the lowest ebb of my life in the water. Add to that a training session on Thursday on the forsaken craft where I felt that this was impossible as well and I am starting to question myself a little.

I work in this industry, when you don't even feel like you have the ability any longer to do any of it it can get on top of you a bit. The waves have been epic and I have not felt up to the task.

BUT, it's all good, I feel better now, I survived training yesterday. I'll go back to the surf in 2 feet with the kooks where I belong and maybe I can work my way back to being able to get out or even stand up again soon. Hahaha.

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62mac said...

.....So I often find myself thinking of work while I'm surfing which is not a good place to be.

Shiz Mac, don't go there .....I got into surfing to de stress from work and it's the best thing, taken years off me.
Saying that and being 51 I am still hoping to improve while you guys think you are slowing down. (if what you're all saying is true about going backwards from 50)

I guess I have to remember that I have a long way to go to catch up.
Thats where the "stoke"is for me, I'm just frothing to get halfway there and look forward to every surf no matter how good or bad it is.

cmc i was more having a stir with my pov added. mac knows a wee bit about the **** im in and everyday is a struggle to grasp how it has happened. as i said though i had everything taken away from me so even sitting watching the joggers on the water with minimal pain is a win for me. so i guess i look at itin the sense i better do what i can when i can cause i know as sure as **** im gonna end back at the hospital at some stage(i suffer from delusions when it comes to what i can do,compared to what i can actually do) oh i was a smasher upper my whole life(now i cringe when i see kids doing what i did growing up at the bowl) **** i just love to smile

dotcom,one of the many downsides to being self employedDon't panic I'll get the froth back one day and I'm still surfing a heap.I've got plenty of mates who work 9 to 5 and I envy them most of the timeanyway I'm not planning to work until I'm 65 so who knows the camper van dream could come true

CMC you last few lines = same same here mate

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So I often find myself thinking of work while I'm surfing which is not a good place to be.

Time to sell big boy ,I know that's easyer said than done , easyer to live in this country on F A . I often look at gizzie think you lucky bugger lives in a Bus just the dog to worry about . all I think he worries about is when he next surf is gunna be & he's got ten years on you mac . I have never sleeped so well since selling don't owe nobody nothing drive a crap car beit a new one but I don't care . May be it's time to learn some skils on a --- mac That opened a whole new world for me get to heaps of breaks most people don't .

Plan on having ago on the sell up TB,but in my industry it would be near impossible to get the money its worth in today's market.Anyway its time for me hit the road to work keep it going lads


This thread is good CMC thanks,good to hear everyone's opinion

I'll tellya my story next week mac

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62mac said...

Plan on having ago on the sell up TB,but in my industry it would be near impossible to get the money its worth in today's market.Anyway its time for me hit the road to work keep it going lads


This thread is good CMC thanks,good to hear everyone's opinion

yes - occasionally.

for me it seems to be the long run of poor conditions, followed by good conditions and big crowds... it's just so frustrating and you lose the froth - and when you do finally get out in some reasonable conditions, your fitness and timing has waned and you don't perform to your expectations.

I also now find that I am getting picky, and so this adds to the time out of the water. I sometimes find myself thinking why have a sh!t surf and get frustrated in poor conditions when I could enjoy a long bike ride along the coast... again, more time out of the water.

Having said that, one good session brings me back... and I am pretty pleased to still be out there at 45yo - as none of my mates I grew up surfing with are.

i just remember those words the doctor said to me in 09, you have about
50-60% of making it.
when your lying in hospital the only thing important is family and friends and
when you get out LIVEING LIFE is..
hassles are always going to be there its how you deal with them.
set some goals
with your sport, family or friends

and if you've gone cold with surfing make sure you have something that gets you frothing


try Living everyday like its your last, for a week

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towball said...

I'll tellya my story next week mac

62mac said...

Plan on having ago on the sell up TB,but in my industry it would be near impossible to get the money its worth in today's market.Anyway its time for me hit the road to work keep it going lads


This thread is good CMC thanks,good to hear everyone's opinion

looking forward to story time I have another one for you too

Dunno what ya talking about, Im surfing the best I have in ages. Had one bad surf this year! Normally Im injured with some shoulder or back problem but touch wood Im going great atm.
Some times I need a rest but I dont get over it at all

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weiry said...

i just remember those words the doctor said to me in 09, you have about
50-60% of making it.
when your lying in hospital the only thing important is family and friends and
when you get out LIVEING LIFE is..
hassles are always going to be there its how you deal with them.
set some goals
with your sport, family or friends

and if you've gone cold with surfing make sure you have something that gets you frothing


try Living everyday like its your last, for a week

have a close look at this one CM - great fighter good story

Mac, stop crapping on about 50. I started at 50!

I work 9 to 5, and every morning I wake up thinking that I could go for a surf and be late to work, but then logic kicks in. During the summer it's easier to get wet after work, but in winter I'm just a weekender unfortunately, but it doesn't stop me looking at the cams and checking out the beach if I drive past.

Recently I've had some personal dramas at work, and with my Father in Law passing (who surf skiied from 50 to 80 and died at 83) and I haven't been as passionate, but the few times I did get in the surf after some bad times, I felt a lot better for it.

I'm a little more wary about crappy days though and after a stinking fin chop I don't go out if I think I might get a fin up my arse, where as before, regardless I'd go out for a paddle to practice in the white water.....

So, no, even though there are times I think "surfing is too hard today" I don't get over it really.

Michael

Pffft what's this!? It's you blokes on this forum that push me and many others I think to keep improving my surfing every morning setting the alarm at 5.30! The passion from some of your posts and helping out us new guys is how surfing is growing as a sport. Without the advice, we'd end up on SUP's kooking it and plowing through the line-up thinking like we are a bunch of high-class uptight english men!

But I do get where you're coming from CMC and Mac, I remember reading something about when passion and work is so mixed together things can get hard. Maybe it's simply a matter of mixing things up? Maybe jumping on a fish or shorty, take a canoe out fishing or just snorkelling instead of going for a paddle all the time would be good. Maybe time away from surfing could ignite the flame even more when you get back on your boards.

Besides that, I find conditions play a big role. Like yesterday in 4.7m/20kn/ Westerlys, I stared at a seagull as it did me and we both decided to stick to land where I use to just paddle out, get pummeled and come back in confidence dented. Eventhough surfing is my way of releasing my inner demons, perfect conditions make things well, perfect and I come out not only a better man but with a big goofy grin as passers by look at me like the village idiot

I know where the back problems come from , suprised you can walk

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doggie said...

Dunno what ya talking about, Im surfing the best I have in ages. Had one bad surf this year! Normally Im injured with some shoulder or back problem but touch wood Im going great atm.
Some times I need a rest but I dont get over it at all

I've never got sick of it. I've had injuries that have stopped me and had to fight my way back into it. I haven't surfed since July last year and would do anything to get back into it although my physio reckons I'll be back in a few months.
Every day I've been out of the water never stops me from looking out the window to see which way the wind is blowing or doing a drive by to have a look.
Having bad surfs is more a state of mind. I've found the older I've got the harder I have to work to surf to a standard that I'm happy with.
You need to be in a good place both physically and mentally to enjoy it.
At the moment I'm a pain in the arse to live with but that's depression. Swimming laps, walking and fishing just keeps me level.
Once I can surf again I know I'll be right.
You guys don't know how lucky you are.

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CMC said...

Just a post perhaps reflecting my own personal state right now. I have had some absolute shocker surfs of late leaving me reluctant to surf again for a while.

It's something to do with a lack of energy or something. Have you ever just lost interest in actually going surfing?

Chris, everybody has shockers - especially sportsmen of all walks of life. Take the good with the bad mate. As a teenager and up until I was 20, I surfed everyday and sometimes 3 times a day (midweek included as I lived opposite Heartbreak High and would sneak home grab my board for lunchtime surfs). Around 20 I stopped surfing - not sure if I lost interest or just found other interests that took up more of my time such as playing rugby,etc. but I'm slowly coming back and look forward to my McT off Santa later in the year and still wonder why I have been out of the game for so long. Us humans are very habitual beings.
Get back in the saddle. Stoked Pty Ltd

Edit: Go the Bunnies.

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doggie said...

Dunno what ya talking about, Im surfing the best I have in ages. Had one bad surf this year! Normally Im injured with some shoulder or back problem but touch wood Im going great atm.
Some times I need a rest but I dont get over it at all

But doggie if I flipped back to your age I would agree with you,some true in Lacey's comments in the other thread tho 50+

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towball said...

I know where the back problems come from , suprised you can walk

doggie said...

Dunno what ya talking about, Im surfing the best I have in ages. Had one bad surf this year! Normally Im injured with some shoulder or back problem but touch wood Im going great atm.
Some times I need a rest but I dont get over it at all

Ha!

CMC sometimes its the other factors in your life that affect your sport and surfing stoke. One of the best things I ever did for myself, my sanity, and my family was to sell up in Sydney got rid of the big house and big mortgage and 60-70 hour a week hard labour job that I hated.
We live in a little patch of paradise now I changed careers started as an aged care nurse and am nearly a registered nurse now and spent a lot of time working in nursing homes and in the community doing pallative care which is a rewarding job and really makes you thankful for every day you have.

Its true sometimes a change is as good as a holiday its to easy to get up like a robot every morning and head off to do the same job day after day I did it for 20 years

Edit @ Chrispy you have already lived the life of three men

agree with newguy completely.

As a complete newbie to the sport of surfing i have bad days at least one in two
but when i get out there and im completely useless being smashed about, i just think one of these times will be good...

i look at the Camaraderie and fun you guys have on here with each other and (at the chance of sounding stupid) it inspires the newbies to keep going. it's not just out there on the day, i think its also about being part of something.

never had so much fun as catching the waves and i still pearl on anything not white. i think a large part of it is the frustration when it doesn't work out your way.