The Bali Diaries, I'm so stealing that for next Bali thread GWAtto, cheers mate.....truth is I do write these daily blogs as much for myself,as I do for friends back home who lurk here & anyone else who cares to read my rambles. Same with my youtube channel, I enjoy creating content even if I don't share it like the 30 something unlisted video's on my youtube channel. For me its something I can go back to later & refresh my memories. I don't expect everyone to be interested. These blogs are an expression of my favourite type of post on the breeze. Pics & tales related to surfing, if anyones not into that, no worries. There's a button up the top right there, press it & create the type of content you like. No one is stopping you
Ok well you guys probably know the drill by now & I won't expand too much. Please see above for further details lol.....ate chicken with rice & noodles, checked the surf at a couple of vantage points. It dropped from yesterday. Felt tired & sore, opted for a visit with Dr Komang. Bought some gifts for friends/family back home. Checked the surf & by this time it was an hour past the high tide. Looked really fun, so went back to wash massage oil off.
I grabbed the 6'0 Hypto shape thinking it looked about head & 1/2 fat waves crumbling down the reef nicely. Took the boat out & found it was head & 1/2 to the occasional triple head with frequent about 18ft face waves bubbling out the back. Wind straight offshore about 5 knts I jumped off the boat at the middle section. There was about 15 people spread along about a 200m stretch & another 10 up at the Southern End of the reef.
As I was paddling up to the outide peak about 30m out from the closest person a set wave came through & I managed to get on it. The outside peak was a big slow crumbler you could late bottom turn & then carve off the top before racing towards another section that would either barrel or give you a nice peak to carve off. I just went racing along & realized too late I could of got a bit of a barrel on that section, it sucked up really nicely. But yeah really fun first wave finishing with a few foam rebounds, top turns & a 200m paddle back to the peak.
Second wave was the same, everyone was way too far inside & I jumped on another set wave as soon as I got back. This one didn't have as big second section so it was just a really nice feeling drawing these big arcing turns off the top of a wave face about triple head for about 100m before tapering off down the line.
Didn't have to wait long for the 3rd wave & it was similar to the first wave so I wanted to try & line up a baz but washed off too much speed delaying my turn & stalling on the peak. It slabbed over & smashed me. I felt myself bouncing on the water inside the barrel before going over the falls & a big tug on my leggy. I got a bit scared coz I suddenly realized I'd brought small conditions leggy, not a normal one. You wouldn't wanna lose a board out there, the foam would take it a third of a K away before you got in to begin looking for it & the sweep would probably steal it away well out of sight before you got a chance to spot it. But anyway I won't go all drama queen on yuz, the board was still with me. But yeah mental note, will havta switch leggys even if its smaller.
I saw a SUP out there on the end section. I'd just hopped off a wave & this bloke was prone paddling his SUP with the paddle under him. He got out past the impact zone & turned around to chase a small one & missed it. Then 3 wide set waves came through & he was gone, I didn't see him again. I'd actually considered taking the longboard out & thought how glad I was that I didn't opt for the longboard. I would of got absolutely smashed.
The wind turned more Southerly after a couple of hours & the tide dropped. It made the takeoffs more difficult with some double up steps, but the triple head sets were very frequent for about 1/2 an hour before the call of the Bintang became too strong. I was literally growling with pain from a cramp on the left side of my neck paddling in on the shortie. But a few beers sorted that out.
Next couple of days are meant to be smaller but I have the Whalebone if I need it, so no worries....cheers
MickPC
> 9 months ago, 12 Jan 2018
